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post #1 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I'm finally getting around to starting a build thread, although the build itself has been going for around 8 months.

Room dimensions are

Width 418cm ( ~13.7 feet)
Length 532cm ( ~17.5 feet)
Ceiling is raked from 245cm ( ~8 Feet) to 299cm ( ~9.8 feet)

The walls are solid brick.

Equipment list

Denon AVP-A1
Elektra Theatron 7 channel amp
Toshiba HD DVD
Oppo BDP-93
Lumagen mini 3d video processor
JVC X3 projector
Crystalmorphic anamorphic lens
Cineslide
120" 2.37:1 DIY curved screen using centerstage XD material
Triad gold LCR inwalls
Triad silver surrounds
Seaton Submersive subwoofer
JL Audio F113 subwoofer
Crowson TES-100 transducers
Behringer feedback destroyer
Audyssey Sub EQ
Behringer EPQ2000 amplifier ( for transducers)
Phillips pronto pro touch screen remote with RF
Lutron light controller
HTPC
Qnap 2 bay NAS

Design

I used Dennis Erskine for the room layout and acoustic design.

I originally planned on using the room for movies and music and had purchased some nice JMlab floor standing speakers. But after giving it some more thought (probably should have done this before the JMlab purchase!) I decided on a dedicated theatre room. I find most of my music listening is done now days either in the car or on my ipod. How much time I would actually spend sitting down in a room listening only was probably going to be minimal. And the room would end up a compromise both ways.

Original plan.


So the new plan was a dedicated theatre with AT screen.

New plan.


APOLOGIES IN ADVANCE FOR THE POOR PICTURE QUALITY OF THE PHOTOS, THEY WERE TAKEN ON AN IPHONE.

I chose Triad inwall golds for the front, as they are very shallow and wouldn't eat up too much of my already small room. I bought these on reputation alone.

This allowed me to keep my screen at about 1.5-2 feet from the wall.

On Dennis' instruction I installed hat channel and RSIC clips and 13mm ( 1/2") gyprock. The ceiling was also to be stepped.

Before any of this could happen I had to remove a brick fireplace that was in the corner. No easy task. It took 3 solid days with a jack hammer to remove. What a mess !

There was also a window that I had to deal with.

To be front wall.


Bye bye window.




Tear down begins !






Finished !


Installing the clips. I had to hammer drill each hole then fix with nylon fastners.

I should have staggered the clips better. But after talking with Ted White I decided to leave them as is. It wasn't going to make much difference in my install.
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post #2 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Next came the hat channel. Now I know most install this horizontally, which is really the only way when you have existing timber beams. But after talking with the company who makes the clips in Australia I installed them vertically. This also made installing the dry wall easier. If I was doing it again I would install them horizontally though, as this keeps the channel off the floor.

My understanding is that the idea of hat channel in my install was to allow the walls to move, and act as a diaphragm, more so than to just decouple for sound isolation.



You can also see the ceiling frames installed.

Next came the insulation. Another thing I would have done different. I saved a few dollars by splitting thick pink batts to put behind the gyprock. I should have just bought 1" thick lined semi rigid boards and saved all the itches !! Next to the jack hammer this was the worst job!

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post #3 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 03:46 PM
 
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Wow, nice work! Was it a real fireplace? What did you do with the chimney? Your room is a little shorter than mine, but a little wider. The extra width makes a huge difference in how many seats you can have.
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post #4 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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cybrsage, yes it was a real fireplace. I also had to spend a couple days knocking the chimney down. All with a sledge hammer, brick by brick, then dropping them off the roof. Then that part of the roof was replaced. Sorry no photos of that job. Actually I had forgotten about it.
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post #5 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 07:30 PM
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Cool, another Aussie theatre going in - best of luck!

Where's the door? cant have the riser go from side to side?

Did you get your Triad gear locally?

What treatments are spec'ed for the room?

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

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post #6 of 112 Old 06-04-2011, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Cool, another Aussie theatre going in - best of luck!

Where's the door? cant have the riser go from side to side?

Did you get your Triad gear locally?

What treatments are spec'ed for the room?

G'Day Peter

The door is at the rear left. If you look closely at the first sketchup picture you can make out the outline. Alongside is a smaller door which leads to the equipment room.

At this time I have scraped the rear chairs and therefore riser. It was a hard decision to make, but it was just going to get too tight.

Yes I got my triad gear through Wavetrain, the local distributer.

As for treatments. The front wall is covered with 1" cloth covered glass. Then the front corners have been stuffed with fluffy pink insulation. Its about 3 foot deep by just over a foot wide. I have pictures of all this which I will post later. The rest of the walls have 2" thick panels of different density and design. Some are DIY with plastic covering, others are bad panels, which act as diffusers and absorbers.

Cheers
Jamie
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post #7 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 01:50 AM
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Gear from Wavetrain, design from Dennis.....lol, cracks me up, that'll tick someone off something chronic...not to mention any names. Good move IMO......darn expensive speakers locally.

So you'll just have 3 seats? that is a though call, albeit probably the correct one. Have you seen Roger's room? about the same size and he has two rows.

Where'd you get the plastic sheet for the DIY treatments, I've been hunting around without a lot of luck....they all seem very ridgid, was thinking 3mm MDF would suffice.

How are you bringing HVAC into the room?

Is the stepped ceiling going to be bass traps? or just gyprocked up?........looking good, I'm so jealous

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post #8 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Gear from Wavetrain, design from Dennis.....lol, cracks me up, that'll tick someone off something chronic...not to mention any names. Good move IMO......darn expensive speakers locally.

So you'll just have 3 seats? that is a though call, albeit probably the correct one. Have you seen Roger's room? about the same size and he has two rows.

Where'd you get the plastic sheet for the DIY treatments, I've been hunting around without a lot of luck....they all seem very ridgid, was thinking 3mm MDF would suffice.

How are you bringing HVAC into the room?

Is the stepped ceiling going to be bass traps? or just gyprocked up?........looking good, I'm so jealous

The choice to go with just one row of 3 was a hard one. And I'm still trying to work out if I can live with it. I'd be happier if I could have a row of 4. But then I have live out in the "bush" and don't have that many friends so most of the time it will be just my partner and I.

My seating is at 12' from the screen. To be honest I like to sit closer during 3D movies. It really adds to the experience. But then I don't like watching 2D so close.

I am thinking a couple bean bags will get us out of trouble when we have friends over.

The room at this stage is 95% complete. I just haven't put up all the pics yet.

HVAC has already been done. I have 2 oversize inlets at the front and 1 return at the back, all with linear diffusers. Its silent on low.

The plastic I used, which was recommended, is only 3 mil (not mm) thick. I purchased it from a laminating company. I used spray adhesive to stick it to the fiberglass sheets.

No bass trapping for the ceiling. In the end there would have been no room anyway!
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post #9 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I also build 6 light boxes which took way more time than I expected. They are made from 9mm MDF with cement sheeting glued inside as insulation. Boy were they heavy. I had anticipated mounting them to the hat channel, but due to the weight (15kg ~33lbs each) I mounted them to the wood beams with isolation clips.

http://www.resilmount.com/resilmount-a-48r.html

Here are the boxes mounted.



After reading about the difficulties of putting up gyprock, I decided to just pay someone to do it for me. Sure glad I did in the end.



The front wall piece got cracked in transit!
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post #10 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Now the fun begins. I get to start framing up the front wall and stage.



Insulation up on the back wall and the speaker mounts in place.




This shows how I did the curve over the screen wall.


Here you can see one of the corners that has been stuffed with pink batts 3 feet deep.


Front wall covered and speakers placed.
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post #11 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 04:45 PM
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Everything looks good so far.

How high are the tweeters of these speakers from the floor?
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post #12 of 112 Old 06-05-2011, 06:04 PM
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Great start.

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post #13 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hehateme View Post
Everything looks good so far.

How high are the tweeters of these speakers from the floor?
Thanks. The tweeter is 132cm (~52") off the ground. I was also told the tweeter does have a slight downwards dispersion.

Keep in mind that I only have one row. No riser as shown in the original sketchup files.
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post #14 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 08:44 AM
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I have been told that tweeter should be at the horizontal center of the screen.
I have also heard that tweeter should be at the ear level.
It is not always possible to achieve both of these goals.
Having downward dispersion will certainly help.
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post #15 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 11:47 AM
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not to burst your bubble are those pink bats fire rated, given the aussie building codes I would be careful in what you do..

not sure of the the age of your home, before doing reno's on older homes you might want to check if the bulding has a heritage tag on it before you demolish anything...
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post #16 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hehateme View Post
I have been told that tweeter should be at the horizontal center of the screen.
I have also heard that tweeter should be at the ear level.
It is not always possible to achieve both of these goals.
Having downward dispersion will certainly help.
I think we can be pretty confident somehow that Dennis got it right with the layout

These speakers are designed for that installation. Generally this is better anyway, have a read of Toole (Sound Reproduction) on the topic of horizontal mounting of center speakers with vertical R and L

Peter the Greek

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Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

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post #17 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post
not to burst your bubble are those pink bats fire rated, given the aussie building codes I would be careful in what you do..

not sure of the the age of your home, before doing reno's on older homes you might want to check if the bulding has a heritage tag on it before you demolish anything...
Hi,

thanks for the concerns. Yes the batts are fire rated. They are designed for ceiling installation.

No heritage problems either, but good points for sure.
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post #18 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hehateme View Post
I have been told that tweeter should be at the horizontal center of the screen.
I have also heard that tweeter should be at the ear level.
It is not always possible to achieve both of these goals.
Having downward dispersion will certainly help.
Elill took the words out of my mouth.

I'm quite confident Dennis got it right.
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post #19 of 112 Old 06-06-2011, 10:50 PM
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I asked about the heritage stuff because the fireplace looked 50-100 years old, some terraced homes are listed under under heritage for period features, you don't usually see that paticular style of fire place in a modern home now days..

I also asked about the fire rating on the pink batts for a reason, what might classed as fire rating for roof install may not apply for a wall install..

also i didn't see any electrical outlet boxes mounted for speaker termination before you put the plaster board up for speaker termination base plate...

given how screwed our laws are here in Australia electrical and comms, cutting corners may cause a plaster gut to be legal or face termination of power due to illegal wiring...
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post #20 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 12:13 AM
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G'Day Jamie,

Like Peter said, great to see another Aussie on here. Peter and I are within 15 mins drive of each other in Northern Sydney. How local are you?? Looks like your build is powering along. Just looking at those batts made me itchy! Poor bugger. You can have that job.

I am (very slowly) starting to get my room together. Would be really interested to see your design for the screen. I am using a Mitsubishi HC-6800 with Anamorphic Lens. With a throw distance of about 17 feet, I would think that a curved screen would certainly address a lot of the pincushion issues. I already have enough Seymour Centre Stage material for a 150 inch 2.37:1 screen. Think it may be slightly smaller.

Keep up the great work...and the photos. Great that we can all vicariously live our builds through others!

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post #21 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 01:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

I asked about the heritage stuff because the fireplace looked 50-100 years old, some terraced homes are listed under under heritage for period features, you don't usually see that paticular style of fire place in a modern home now days..

I also asked about the fire rating on the pink batts for a reason, what might classed as fire rating for roof install may not apply for a wall install..

also i didn't see any electrical outlet boxes mounted for speaker termination before you put the plaster board up for speaker termination base plate...

given how screwed our laws are here in Australia electrical and comms, cutting corners may cause a plaster gut to be legal or face termination of power due to illegal wiring...

Hi mystic_sniper

I'll check the batts are rated for wall use also. Too bad though now if they aren't. And I thought I had picked out all my mystakes!!

All the wireing was done by an electrician, but I didn't use any termination boxes for speaker wires. They are all direct one piece. Just pulled them through a small hole in the gyprock and then siliconed any gap.
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post #22 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 01:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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G'Day Jamie,

Like Peter said, great to see another Aussie on here. Peter and I are within 15 mins drive of each other in Northern Sydney. How local are you?? Looks like your build is powering along. Just looking at those batts made me itchy! Poor bugger. You can have that job.

I am (very slowly) starting to get my room together. Would be really interested to see your design for the screen. I am using a Mitsubishi HC-6800 with Anamorphic Lens. With a throw distance of about 17 feet, I would think that a curved screen would certainly address a lot of the pincushion issues. I already have enough Seymour Centre Stage material for a 150 inch 2.37:1 screen. Think it may be slightly smaller.

Keep up the great work...and the photos. Great that we can all vicariously live our builds through others!

Howdy Dingaling,

Yeah I hate insulation. I have no idea how people can install it for a living.

I wish I was a little closer to you guys, but I'm way off in the bush in country SA.

For my screen I doubled the throw distance, so to halve the curve. That way it would be a good compromise between having the lens in the beam and not.

I'll post some pics of my screen build, and what I used. The screen is one thing I am very happy with so far. It turned out better than I hoped. I used Seymour material too, and can attest to its performance.
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post #23 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 02:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to build my own screen after getting some prices on off the shelf models. I started getting screen samples and finally settled on Seymour centerstage XD, as it had the tightest weave, and at the time I was going to be relatively close to the screen, and didn't want to see the texture. As it turned out I am sitting further back, but even at the original distance I can't make out the weave at all. I have to say I am very impressed with this material, especially the price !

Next I scoured these forums to find a design I could use.

The screen is to be a curved 120" 2.37 aspect. I only used half the recommended curve for my throw distance, so not to cause too many issues when not using the lens.

The screen frame is all maranti. I chose this as its easy to work with, relatively light and stable.

The top frames are 140x 35mm (5 1/2 x 1 1/4 ") The face panels are 90 x 19mm (3 1/2" x 3/4). The vertical sides are 90 x 35mm (3 1/2 x 1 1/4 ").

I used a long straight flexible piece of MDF to trace out the curve, then used a jigsaw to cut it out. I cleaned up the cut lightly with an electric plane.

I used screws to fasten the face panels to the top and bottom frames. I was a little concerned that the tension could cause them to warp, but they stayed perfectly true.

I also had the face pieces routed out so I could put window screen aluminum channel in. This was glued in place after the wood was curved.

Rolling the screen material in took some effort, but I was surprised how easy it was to get the material wrinkle free. The trick for me was not to roll the rubber bead all the way into the channel. That way I could go back and get a little more tension on the areas that needed it. All up this job took about an hour.

Enough yappin, now some pics.

Top and bottom frames

gluing in the channel

Bogged, ready for sanding and painting

Wrapped with fidelio velvet, and 2 supports added.

All done and up in place. Phew! just fits!!
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post #24 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 03:05 AM
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nice screen a few more inches you could of done a 2.39-2.40:1 screen
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post #25 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 03:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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nice screen a few more inches you could of done a 2.39-2.40:1 screen

Thanks. I would have loved 130" or 140 or.....

Seriously though, there are always limits.
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post #26 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 05:07 AM
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That screen is s cracker - congrats!

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post #27 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 06:40 AM
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Jamie,

Good job on the screen. I'll buy the ticket to Sydney. Come over these parts, drink some real beer (Not that horrible SA stuff (Coopers Pale Ale excluded!) and make my screen for me! (Screen first, then beer!)

Looking great.

Cheers

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post #28 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 08:52 AM
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I love the screen frame!

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post #29 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Peter and Ted.

Greg, thanks for the invite! I might just take you up on it. Actually looking at your thread I'm sure you will have no problems. Oh sorry to disappoint, I'm not much of a beer drinker, so you might have to up the ante to spirits ! ;-)
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post #30 of 112 Old 06-07-2011, 03:31 PM
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While I'm shelling out airline tickets I may as well invite Ted over as well as the official Green Glue Squirter and drywall hanger!

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