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post #361 of 1947 Old 03-03-2012, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

TMcG, thanks for the soundproofing links. Any idea on how those compare to whisper clips. I can dig through the test data on the websites, but sometimes it's a bit tough to get apples to apples comparisons.

You make a good point about dropping the ceiling down below the beam. My only concern is I have a limited ceiling height on the riser at the back. It's about 7'-10" from the riser to the ceiling without floor coverings or soffits. So I'm trying to keep as much height there as possible. With that said, though, if it gets to be too much trouble, I may do what you're suggesting.

Keep the comments coming

Sorry I didn't see this post until now. If you do any decoupling with these clips and accompanying hat track, you will already be (or be very close) to 2 inches of height down from your joists so you could simply drywall over everything without even contacting the joist. The alternative would be to do NO soundproofing except for Green Glue in between the two layers of drywall. But if there was a single surface in the home theater I would want to decouple it would be the ceiling since living space is right above. This will give you a perfectly flat ceiling which is decoupled and low profile. I assume you are talking about adding stain-grade 1x material as an applied molding directly to the ceiling to preserve maximum height, right? I don't see it pictured, but were you considering a small "back-bar" behind the last row of seats for overflow seating during big events? If you are, traffic flow to this seating area is the only thing I see as being a real height restriction for you in the room. Even if you built out the finish carpentry on the ceiling several inches to give added depth, your height to the seating on the riser will still be perfectly fine. I had a friend who's height underneath the soffit on the riser ended up being 6'7". It felt a bit strange at first but you really get used to the lower ceiling height very quickly!
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post #362 of 1947 Old 03-04-2012, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

This photo shows how most large-radius wood mouldings are made:

Those look expensive! I don't know if I would go with an actual molding, or possibly just use a veneer on larger flat surfaces. It is good to know I've got some options though. I'll take a look at that website and see if I get any more ideas.

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Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I kind of like the ceiling. I think the render is partly to blame-- if it were a darker, richer color it would look completely different.

What would really be kick-a-s is if you dropped the coffer a few inches so the black ceiling above was continuous.. then install a star ceiling. It would be like looking at the sky through skylights.

Darker color - check! We'll give that a try in some upcoming renders.

And the continuous ceiling is a great idea! I wanted the coffered part of the ceiling to look like it was floating using the lighting, but why not make it actually floating. I don't know that I will use a star ceiling, but I think having the continuous ceiling under my coffered ceiling would be really nice. The only problem I can think of is how I would span a 19' wide room and support the beams. I know it won't be holding a lot of weight, but I don't know if a 2x4 would be enough. Any thoughts?

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........If you do any decoupling with these clips and accompanying hat track, you will already be (or be very close) to 2 inches of height down from your joists so you could simply drywall over everything without even contacting the joist...........


..........I assume you are talking about adding stain-grade 1x material as an applied molding directly to the ceiling to preserve maximum height, right? I don't see it pictured, but were you considering a small "back-bar" behind the last row of seats for overflow seating during big events? If you are, traffic flow to this seating area is the only thing I see as being a real height restriction for you in the room. Even if you built out the finish carpentry on the ceiling several inches to give added depth, your height to the seating on the riser will still be perfectly fine. I had a friend who's height underneath the soffit on the riser ended up being 6'7". It felt a bit strange at first but you really get used to the lower ceiling height very quickly!

I'm definitely going to decouple the entire room, but right now I haven't decided if I'm going with a room within a room design (and put joists between my existing joists) or or if I will go with some sort of clips and channel.

I'm also planning a bar at the back, but I took it out of the render to show the ceiling better. Here's another view showing the bar. I could see us spending a lot of time back there using it as a place to have "dinner and a movie." or a place for me to work while listening to music. Since I'm nearly 6'-4", having a low ceiling worries me a bit. The door header going into the theater now feels a little low without a soffit already, but we'll see how it feels once the riser is in. I would really like to have a more traditional depth coffered ceiling as I think it looks nicer.



As always, thanks for the feedback everyone! I really do appreciate all the different perspectives. It's easy to get locked into one way of seeing things, so another view is always good to have!

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post #363 of 1947 Old 03-04-2012, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Thought I'd go ahead and post this, too. My rack rails came in! They look pretty nice. 1/8" thick, I think. Looks like a plain old painted finish, so nothing fancy, but still a lot cheaper than buying a rack.





They're supposed to spray foam this week, so I probably won't have any pictures, but hopefully the week after I'll be able to put my rack up. nothing really exciting since it'll just be a few 2x4's and some brackets and rails, but theater progress is theater progress, right?

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post #364 of 1947 Old 03-07-2012, 08:52 PM
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I had to rescue this one from the 3rd page again. We need updates

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post #365 of 1947 Old 03-08-2012, 05:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the bump

There hasn't been much photo worthy progress. The electricians finished up the wiring, and the spray foam guys started yesterday. They're planning to finish on Friday. The downside to that is I'm not planning to go back into the house for 4 or 5 days after they finish while it cures and airs out. I've breathed enough nasty stuff over the years to suit me

Hopefully I'll have some more pics in the not too distant future. I'm told they'll be able to hang the drywall in one day. That'll be impressive, and I'll believe it when I see it.

As a side note, I've started researching unRaid as a storage solution. I'm running WHS v1 now, and I think for the cost of adding another 1TB of useable space to my WHS, I can migrate to unRAID and gain 4TB-5TB. Anyone have any experience with unRaid and WHS or unRaid and MyMovies they'd like to share?

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post #366 of 1947 Old 03-08-2012, 08:50 AM
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I've been using unRaid with great success for about 2 years now.

I store all my movies on there: kids tv shows, SD movies and Blu-Rays (re-encoded to save space, but still HD).

I have nothing but nice things to say about it. I'm using WD green drives. XBMC front-ends. Old Xboxes for the kids and an atom box for the HDTV.
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post #367 of 1947 Old 03-08-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Thought I'd go ahead and post this, too. My rack rails came in! They look pretty nice. 1/8" thick, I think. Looks like a plain old painted finish, so nothing fancy, but still a lot cheaper than buying a rack.

They're supposed to spray foam this week, so I probably won't have any pictures, but hopefully the week after I'll be able to put my rack up. nothing really exciting since it'll just be a few 2x4's and some brackets and rails, but theater progress is theater progress, right?

I'd like to share a tip with you on mounting those rack rails to get a perfect finish. Get a handful of blank panels of any standard rack height, but a minimum of three (top, middle and bottom). Next, get the straightest 1x material you can from your local lumber yard / big box store. Once these pieces are cut to length, box in the rails with the 1x material and attach the rails. Take this assembly and insert into your rough opening approximately 1/2" larger on all sides. Shim everything into place in your rough framing, similar to hanging a pre-hung door. Drive 3 1/2" or 4" screws through the railing AND using what is called a countersunk finish washer to increase your overall compression and holding power without bending the rack rails. Here is an image of the washer: http://www.made-in-china.com/showroo...p-Washer-.html
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post #368 of 1947 Old 03-09-2012, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I've been using unRaid with great success for about 2 years now.

It seems like the general consensus is it's a great product. Unfortunately, it looks like the only thing I'll be able to use from my old hardware is the case and the power supply. My motherboard uses HPA to provide BIOS backup, and unRaid apparently doesn't care for that. Even then, I think I'll be money ahead considering the amount of space I'm losing to duplication.

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post #369 of 1947 Old 03-09-2012, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I'd like to share a tip with you on mounting those rack rails to get a perfect finish. Get a handful of blank panels of any standard rack height, but a minimum of three (top, middle and bottom). Next, get the straightest 1x material you can from your local lumber yard / big box store. Once these pieces are cut to length, box in the rails with the 1x material and attach the rails. Take this assembly and insert into your rough opening approximately 1/2" larger on all sides. Shim everything into place in your rough framing, similar to hanging a pre-hung door. Drive 3 1/2" or 4" screws through the railing AND using what is called a countersunk finish washer to increase your overall compression and holding power without bending the rack rails. Here is an image of the washer: http://www.made-in-china.com/showroo...p-Washer-.html

Thanks for the tips! I hadn't thought of using blanks to align the rails. I thin the last time I did it I just used some angle iron to hold everything in place. This should make it a lot easier, and it looks like Monoprice has some pretty cheap ones as well. That should work nicely.

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post #370 of 1947 Old 03-10-2012, 05:23 PM
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J_P_A,

No updated home construction pictures? I'm somewhat disappointed sorry to say. You're slipping.

Any more renders up your sleeve?

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Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
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post #371 of 1947 Old 03-11-2012, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry RT. No construction pictures. I don't want to go in while the foam is curing. I did stop by yesterday, and aside from covering the windows and caulking, it doesn't look like they've done much. Hopefully they'll finish up with the insulation this week so that we can get moving.

I did take the day yesterday and go on a movie binge (4 movies in one day! Living the dream!). My wife and son were out of town, so I went to the movies and saw John Carter. It really reminded me of why I love this hobby. I'm really excited about getting this project going once the house is finished! While I was there, I did take the time to count ceiling tiles. I was sitting about 25 tiles back (short side of the tiles) and the screen was about 9 tiles across (long dimension). So assuming the tiles are 2x4, that put me at about 1.5 times the screen width back. I wish I could have sat closer, but the way the theater was laid out, it would have put me too far down the screen. So, investigation will continue. I think Hunger Games will likely be my next trip to the theater.

Now for renderings. You shamed me into it, RT. I tried a traditional coffered ceiling, and I like that it feels lighter, but it may be a little plain. Of course, once rope lights are added, that might change.



Next I tried playing with some colors. I changed the wood color to something darker as recommended, and I think I like the darker wood, but that didn't go with the original wall colors. So I toyed around with that a bit as well. Unfortunately, I'm hopeless at things like colors. I may very well hire the designer that's been working on our house to pick out colors. Here's a couple of attempts



And a little different



What do you guys think? I think I'd like to come up with a color scheme with blues in it to see if I like the cooler colors, but I don't know if it will go with the redder wood stains.

Edit: Here's another one with darker wood that has less red in it. Still trying for a blue color scheme that works.


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post #372 of 1947 Old 03-11-2012, 04:09 PM
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A quick decorator hint - choose your carpet FIRST. Assuming it will have a pattern and not a monochromatic color, pull a coordinating fabric color from one of the accent colors in the carpet. Then choose your woods species and stain color (stain-grade pine is the cheapest that still looks nice). From there the granite color and some of the smaller detail pieces are easy choices once you have the major color scheme wrapped up.

Two things on the coffered ceiling to "dress it up" - One is to make all the beams wider to add heft. Second, for the beams that run left to right, you could recess them approximately 3 inches compared to the main beams that run front to back. This will create additional depth. And I am sure you were going to run crown inside the coffers with it just being difficult to show in Sketch-Up.

Glad the hints on framing the rack rails helped. One clarification - when I said 1x material I meant 1x4 finish grade (trim) material so it matches the depth of your standard 2x4 rough framing. Your 1x4" box containing the rails is then shimmed plum in position. For additional strength I actually shift the whole unit to one side or the other within the rough framing for maximum holding power from the screws. Pre-painting the wood black on the rail side of the framing will make your life easy and later removal of the rails to paint a non-issue. Good luck!
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post #373 of 1947 Old 03-12-2012, 10:36 AM
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I like the traditional coffered ceiling renders better than your earlier renders.

I agree with TMcG -- pick your carpet first and choose colors to coordinate. The folks who choose colors first and then try to find carpet to match seem to have a heckuva hard time.

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post #374 of 1947 Old 03-12-2012, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys are raining on my parade. I know you're right, but I really hate looking at carpet

Oh well, I guess it's got to be done.

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post #375 of 1947 Old 03-12-2012, 03:38 PM
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I picked my carpet after I had my colors picked out. It definitely made it easier to narrow down the carpet. There are so many different carpet options that I do not think it is too difficult to find something to match whatever you choose. My room has earth-tones so that might have made it easier - If you do end up going blue then yes carpet might be harder to match.
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post #376 of 1947 Old 03-12-2012, 04:45 PM
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See now, let me make those dark rain clouds into friendly puffy white fair weather clouds (cumulus clouds if anyone is paying attention) and tell you that I (the official carpet counselor) picked his carpet AFTER he had chosen his room decor. I know may that have done the exact same thing. Just another way to do it. Actually in just about every circumstance I/we (Mrs. RTROSE) have gone with all the colors and decor first and then picked the floor covering to go with that. The only room I did not do that with was the boys bathroom and I just happened to find a vinyl floor I liked and then worked around that. Otherwise I usually put the cart before the horse according to TNcG.

Hey its your room do it the way you want.

I too like the latest renderings much better than the first ones, but you have lots of time yet to play around with different ideas.

Adding on SM's comment regarding colors I went with blue, but I did not find it very difficult to find carpet.

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post #377 of 1947 Old 03-13-2012, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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In all honesty, I'm not a big fan of the colors in any of the renderings, but I was just trying to get the gears turning to see if anything would put me in the ballpark. I'm sure I'll have to go the same route as everyone else as far as ordering fabric samples and getting paint chips and the like.

There is a little construction related news. The foam guys were out this morning actually spraying foam Sorry for the crappy pic, but my lens fogged up and I wasn't getting any closer.



The vinyl guys have also started, but they only had the soffits started this morning. I probably won't get close enough for any real pictures for another few days. I know I'm being a little too cautious, but better safe than sorry. I've used the, "it won't hurt this once," excuse a few too many times during my life.

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post #378 of 1947 Old 03-14-2012, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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A little more progress today. It looks like they finished spraying the garage, and the wall between the interior and the garage. When I stopped by this morning, they were already spraying, so hopefully in the next day or so they will finish.



Here's the progress on the vinyl. I think I mentioned before that we decided to go with the fake shake as opposed to real cedar shake just because of the maintenance. As it stands, there's nothing on the exterior of the house that will need to be painted. Everything is either brick, vinyl or coated metal. That frees up my springs and falls for other stuff, like cutting grass I do hope the stone on the front porch will tie the colors together a bit more, but I'm glad the exterior is getting close to being finished.


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post #379 of 1947 Old 03-14-2012, 08:43 PM
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Yeah, foam! I don't blame you. That stuff gets everywhere, and I mean EVERYWHERE! When I had my basement done, about 80% of the time spent for the job was for setup and mitigation of the overspay/protecting the rest of the space/house from the foam. The actual application goes very quickly. If you are around it for very long you get the experience of feeling the chemical reaction (heat build up) which warms up your space. Interesting for sure.

The exterior of your home is coming along quite nicely. Very classy.

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post #380 of 1947 Old 03-15-2012, 05:21 AM
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Wish I had slowed down enough to consider foam...

Coming along great!

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post #381 of 1947 Old 03-15-2012, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Tony! Glad you stopped by. I don't know about you, but I'm supposed to be studying right now, and I'm procrastinating instead


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The exterior of your home is coming along quite nicely. Very classy.

If we had to choose one thing we hoped people would say about our house, classy is it! I can't tell you how many times we said that word to our architect and designer.

Thanks for the compliment RT!

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post #382 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Three pages back again

A little progress to report. They've finished installing the "fake" shake and all of the vinyl trim around the soffits. We really like the way the shake turned out. The color works really well. The only other exterior finishes that I can think of is the stone on the front, and the breadboard and cedar posts and beams on the back porch. Here's a pic of them finishing up the soffits.



In theater related news, I did install my "temporary" equipment rack. I would have liked to wait a little longer for the foam to air out, but I just couldn't take waiting anymore. And, I say temporary because it's definitely not up to my usual standards. But once the bleeding started in earnest, I decided speed was more important than quality just this once. I'll need to take it back down to put in the drywall anyway, but that will probably happen when I drywall the theater. Right now the plan is to add a doorway in the back of the closet for wiring access, and use the space at the front of the rack on either side for DVD/Blu-ray storage shelves. But that'll be a project for a long time from now.



It looks like all of the insulation is done as they came back and put in fiberglass between the rooms. So now they're working on scheduling the drywall.

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post #383 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 01:12 PM
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looking good!

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post #384 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 01:46 PM
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Hey,

I just realized you have quite the grade going on there and that first step, well looks like a doozy. Just curious to hear what your plan is for the front porch. I know you talked about some stone work are you incorporating the stone into the steps as well?

Looking good. That rack looks good, now to just get a theater build around it is the next step.

Regards,

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Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #385 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

You're right, RT. That first step is a bit of a doozy right now. Fortunately, our builder is planning to do a LOT of back filling along the front of the house. We're hoping to only have a couple of steps coming down off the front porch when they're done. That's partly to eliminate steps, and partly to make sure that there is a good slope away from the house for water to drain away. At the very least, there is going to be several feet of dirt added to the left side as that window can't be more than 6' above grade. I'd guess it's around 10' above grade now, so lots of dirt to add there.

As far as the steps go, I don't know what my wife has planned there, but I was envisioning them being made of brick. That's one of those things that my wife and our designer get to decide I'm more in charge of making sure the house doesn't leak, fall down, or catch on fire!

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post #386 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 07:16 PM
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I know this is your build thread, but I wanted to ask you about water. They prepped my foundation to pour the floors (those are the last pics you saw), then it rained. They waited a day and it rained again. So next day they went ahead poured the floors. That night it rained. Is all that rain bad for my foundation?

 

 

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post #387 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Generally speaking, the water is good for the concrete. The slower you can get it to cure, the stronger it is when it's done. They usually wait for clear weather because the rain makes dimples in your finished floor, not because it's bad for the concrete. So as long as your floor is smooth, you don't have anything to worry about

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The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #388 of 1947 Old 03-21-2012, 07:35 PM
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Curing concrete is a chemical reaction, not a drying one. Concrete will cure completely submerged.

The "Twinseltown" Theater
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post #389 of 1947 Old 03-24-2012, 04:55 PM
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Giving the ole 3 day bump

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post #390 of 1947 Old 03-26-2012, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, how time flies. It's been pretty crazy here lately for sure, but we've had a lot of progress.

First, we've got blue tubs! I'm not sure what this is about, but I'm guessing it's something to keep the grout and mortar from sticking to the tubs when they lay the tile. They did this to the two tubs in the guest baths. You can also see a bundle of my low voltage wiring in the wall behind the tub.



They've got most of the stone work finished on the front porch.



AND, they've finished most of the drywall. In one day, no less . I think they would have finished, but they ran out of the sheetrock. We really like the windows in our living room That wall also faces North, so between that and the porch roof, the living room is never in direct sun, but it's always bright in there during the day.




Sorry for the bad pics, but I was going for quantity, not quality

I've also got my unRAID server up and working. It's been a bit slow going just getting accustomed to a new OS. I'm clearing disks now, so we'll see how it goes over the next few weeks as I get all of my data migrated. I'd really like to be able to watch a movie in our new house not too long after we move in. Obviously not in the theater, but I do want to set a precedent about our priorities

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The Plains Theater Has Begun
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