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post #1591 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 09:28 AM
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Who would inspect it for being "code" ? Is that really important ?

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #1592 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I pulled a permit for my room. I'll need to have a final inspection once I get the columns in and the receptacles wired up.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #1593 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 09:41 AM
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Same here. Fully permitted. Otherwise it's too much of an insurance risk should something ever happen.
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post #1594 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
. I don't see myself ever needing to remove the things. It's not like I'll need to relocate them, because that would require redoing fabric panels, trim, etc. I suppose the question now is whether it's easier to build the three-sided box and then attach it to the wall or is it easier to just frame it up in place.
Never say never! Make it removable! My sub project required me to remove back right rear column. Sure glad we decided to make columns removable!

Just saying.....
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post #1595 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 11:10 AM
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Same here. Fully permitted. Otherwise it's too much of an insurance risk should something ever happen.
But we are talking about running a speaker wire right ? Or am I missing something ?

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post #1596 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 11:27 AM
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But we are talking about running a speaker wire right ? Or am I missing something ?
We were talking about running the high voltage in / through the columns in addition to the low voltage. Inspectors could care less about low voltage, except that the wall penetrations are fire sealed.
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post #1597 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 11:30 AM
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NEC usually requires lots of electrical outlets (every 8' plus near corners and doors, I think), so they're putting the outlets in the columns to avoid putting holes in the walls.
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post #1598 of 1612 Old 07-08-2014, 11:36 AM
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NEC usually requires lots of electrical outlets (every 8' plus near corners and doors, I think), so they're putting the outlets in the columns to avoid putting holes in the walls.
Within 3 feet of the door on each wall and every 12' maximum thereafter....
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post #1599 of 1612 Old Yesterday, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I mentioned a few posts back that I have my lights in. Still missing the screen wash lights, the step lights, and the LED top lights. It just doesn't make sense to put them in yet. I do have three of the zones in, though. The soffit lights on both sides in one zone, the back soffit lights is another, and the four overhead LED puck lights is the third. I've wired it so that I can split the LED puck lights into a front and rear zones later.

I recorded a video of the three zones to try to give you an idea of how it looks. I don't have the scene selector in yet and I haven't programmed any of the scenes yet, so I had to run each of the dimmers manually.


A couple things to note, my phone was doing it's best to adjust the exposure, so it's hard to see how much dimming is actually happening (I think, anyway. I haven't been in the room when any of the dimming action has happened because my arms aren't long enough ).

Next, you'll notice the LED puck lights don't dim all the way. I expected that, but I'm hoping I can get it a little better by adjusting the trim on the dimmers. We shall see.

Finally, The puck lights do buzz a little bit. For now, it's not a problem since it distracts me from my tinnitus. I don't think it will be a problem in the finished room either, as the plan has always been to dim the pucks to off first, and turn them on last since they won't dim all the way down. So those lights are not expected to be on during a movie or sporting event…… ever.

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Last edited by J_P_A; Today at 07:59 AM.
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post #1600 of 1612 Old Yesterday, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
I mentioned a few posts back that I have my lights in. Still missing the screen wash lights, the step lights, and the LED top lights. It just doesn't make sense to put them in yet. I do have three of the zones in, though. The soffit lights on both sides in one zone, the back soffit lights is another, and the four overhead LED puck lights is the third. I've wired it so that I can split the LED puck lights into a front and rear zones later.

I recorded a video of the three zones to try to give you an idea of how it looks. I don't have the scene selector in yet and I haven't programmed any of the scenes yet, so I had to run each of the dimmers manually.

If someone can tell me how to embed this video, that would be awesome!


A couple things to note, my phone was doing it's best to adjust the exposure, so it's hard to see how much dimming is actually happening (I think, anyway. I haven't been in the room when any of the dimming action has happened because my arms aren't long enough ).

Next, you'll notice the LED puck lights don't dim all the way. I expected that, but I'm hoping I can get it a little better by adjusting the trim on the dimmers. We shall see.

Finally, The puck lights do buzz a little bit. For now, it's not a problem since it distracts me from my tinnitus. I don't think it will be a problem in the finished room either, as the plan has always been to dim the pucks to off first, and turn them on last since they won't dim all the way down. So those lights are not expected to be on during a movie or sporting event…… ever.
Well,

I was taken to photobucket by not much happening other than push start button works for a bit then stops before full run. Shrugs...
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post #1601 of 1612 Old Today, 07:34 AM
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JPA.. Just another quick comment on the Columns FWIW

I built 3 sided columns with removable grilles.. these attached to blocking as others have described.. however I screwed from the inside through the blocking into the column.. built the columns 1/4-3/8" inches short, and pushed them up to the soffit.. carpet/pad/trim covered any gap at the bottom.. makes it permanent from any inspectors point of view.

I like building then mounting interior details.. I find it much easier to finish them in the shop/garage then trying to sand/ stain/ seal inside the house..

Too bad you don't have longer arms... the lights dim nicely.. you should see it

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post #1602 of 1612 Old Today, 07:59 AM
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Now imbedded......much better!
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post #1603 of 1612 Old Today, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I think I got the video fixed. I had to upload it to the Youtubes and then it embeds automagically with just the link.

KNKKNK, Good suggestions on the column construction. I was considering that approach, so I'm glad to hear someone else has done it with success. What thickness sheet material did you use? I'm planning MDF since these will be painted. I've never worked with MDF before, so I'm not sure if 3/4" is necessary.

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post #1604 of 1612 Old Today, 08:16 AM
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KNKKNK, Good suggestions on the column construction. I was considering that approach, so I'm glad to hear someone else has done it with success. What thickness sheet material did you use? I'm planning MDF since these will be painted. I've never worked with MDF before, so I'm not sure if 3/4" is necessary.
I was thinking of a similar approach as well, and I'll have 'in wall' speakers being used in the columns. I was debating using an IB-3 type sound isolation bracket to attach the column to the wall... Do you think that is really not needed and direct attachment works just fine?
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post #1605 of 1612 Old Today, 08:26 AM
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When I'm doing painted built-ins, I usually use a B-grade maple ply with poplar hard wood. Maple ply will produce a much higher quality end product than MDF and is easier to finish and much easier to work with. It is certainly more expensive, but not necessarily by that much given the advantages over MDF. I haven't been following closely enough to be familiar with your design plan, but it may be worth doing a little math to see what the actual cost difference is. [/rant]

Regardless of your material choice, I would suspect that 1/2" would be plenty strong enough (especially for the sides) for something like this that is more or less ornamental. The front you may want to make 3/4" just based on design/trim choices. As a belts and suspenders move, you could use some of the scraps for bracing is you were worried about flexing or resonance. Just my $.02.

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post #1606 of 1612 Old Today, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking of a similar approach as well, and I'll have 'in wall' speakers being used in the columns. I was debating using an IB-3 type sound isolation bracket to attach the column to the wall... Do you think that is really not needed and direct attachment works just fine?
I don't think the IB-3 clips will gain you anything with regard to sound isolation. The downside I can see is the column may rattle. I don't know that for sure, though.

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When I'm doing painted built-ins, I usually use a B-grade maple ply with poplar hard wood. Maple ply will produce a much higher quality end product than MDF and is easier to finish and much easier to work with. It is certainly more expensive, but not necessarily by that much given the advantages over MDF. I haven't been following closely enough to be familiar with your design plan, but it may be worth doing a little math to see what the actual cost difference is. [/rant]

Regardless of your material choice, I would suspect that 1/2" would be plenty strong enough (especially for the sides) for something like this that is more or less ornamental. The front you may want to make 3/4" just based on design/trim choices. As a belts and suspenders move, you could use some of the scraps for bracing is you were worried about flexing or resonance. Just my $.02.
Do you use the poplar for the framing? Is there a reason for the poplar over a regular dimensional pine 2x? Could you explain how the maple is easier to finish than the MDF? Since I don't really know any better, it seems he MDF would need less sanding to be ready for paint.

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post #1607 of 1612 Old Today, 09:05 AM
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MDF is great for painting the factory edges but it sometimes sucks with nails and screws and corners are easily damaged. Durability is lower. Hard woods have maximum durability. Soft wood like pine in between. Pine is cheap, easy to work with too; but is soft so it can dent or show damages easily too.

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post #1608 of 1612 Old Today, 09:10 AM
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I've always found it more difficult to join two pieces of 1/2" MDF with mechanical fasteners than with 3/4" and the corners ding much more readily. With two young boys, well......

Here's a couple of quick sketches:


I use the first method, along with a few well-placed pieces of velcro and some single-sided adhesive closed cell gasketing. A few firm tugs and the whole column comes free. I'll be using this method because I will not have removable access panels from the front of the column. If the front is removable, then it's easy to screw together, of course. Inspectors have never challenged how attached the columns were and I've never had and issue.

The second method is what I believe Brad is describing, so I thought I would draw it up since TMcGoogle(R) Sketchup was already running.
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post #1609 of 1612 Old Today, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, guys! Thanks for the input! TMcGoogle® Sketchup has been turning out some serious renders lately. The first is what I had in mind, but hadn't though of the second. I think getting the screws in the first version would be easier.

Do you guys have any suggestions on dimensions? I'd like to be able to hide some smoothing subs later, but I don't want to end up with 2' deep columns either.

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post #1610 of 1612 Old Today, 09:30 AM
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I just made a post in the Coffin Build about the column depth in response to your question in that thread.

You can always buy Triad in-wall subs which max out at 5.5" deep or something similar, but here is a perfect example of how DIY subs can really fit into your design by simply making a back box big enough to satisfy the Qt of the driver while maintaining a fixed maximum depth. Both are things you'd naturally have to noodle through before building your column, though. If I know you, I'd imagine you are considering the DIY approach for smoothing subs vs. store bought, right?

Generally speaking, though, a comfortable column size range is 16-20" wide and 6"-10" deep, speaker (and room) dependent, of course.
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post #1611 of 1612 Old Today, 09:43 AM
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What thickness sheet material did you use? I'm planning MDF since these will be painted. I've never worked with MDF before, so I'm not sure if 3/4" is necessary.
I stained so I used 3/4 oak ply.. (I build virtually everything out of 3/4) if using MDF I personally would go 3/4 also.

Mfusick makes an excellent point about the corners... you would need additional trim to finish the corner of ply, without an elaborate jointing method.. Glue and MDF is like peanut butter and jelly.. they go great together

@TMcG .. my copy of TMcGoogle(R) Sketchup crashes every time i try to load it.. then again it is the freeware version

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post #1612 of 1612 Old Today, 10:04 AM
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Heres how I did mine..

Nailed and glued 3" wide strips 3/4 ply for "L" shaped mounts .... Strong, perfectly straight and less space required inside column compared to 2x2's (another advantage of the track saw is the cost/ease of these strips)

Used adhesive when screwing mounts to wall..
Then just screwed the columns to the mounts from inside..

Ill use the same approach for mounting everything to the wall in this build also

BTW I had the triad inwall bronze 10's in 2 of them also

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