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post #1831 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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You lost me. What is a 5-way binding post? I don't even see those on the site.

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post #1832 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 08:49 PM
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5-way may be the wrong term. I thought that was what the industry term was in general, but I may be confused.

Here's what I put in my cheap thrills, and what I would use again.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/accesso...inding-03.html
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post #1833 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Did you put them in a cup or just through the back?

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post #1834 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 09:21 PM
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I'm drunk. Be patient. Well figure this out tomorrow
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post #1835 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
I'm drunk. Be patient. Well figure this out tomorrow
Nominated for post of the day!
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post #1836 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 10:18 PM
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I went for simplicity and just drilled a couple holes through the back. For surrounds, I'll want them recessed - but I think I'll extend the sides past the back instead of using a recessed cup. Not sure really.
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post #1837 of 2038 Old 08-07-2014, 11:37 PM
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You don't want posts .... You want speakon plates. I'll link you up when I sober up and get on the PC.

You either want posts and use raw wires. (Strip, twist, insert raw wire into binding posts). or... You want speakon connectors. Don't mix them. Speakons are really nice. Easy. Secure. Bare wire isn't exposed to oxidize over time. Fast connect and disconnect. But no reasons simple stripped wire clamped down onto a binding post won't work.

I found it a tad easier to make the neutrik speakon plates air tight and solid than the binding posts. Just use a 1" drill bit, and some construction adhesive and it fits the hole perfectly. Done. The plate overlaps the speaker backplate just enough to make you feel good about an airtight secure seal. The speakon plate itself screws down into the wood, but the adhesive will dry and make it really solid and airtight forever. Very easy to use, very easy to install. Once you start using speakon you are hooked on them forever.
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post #1838 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 07:33 AM
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Not to beat a dead horse, but get the Neutrik Speakons for both plates and connectors. It's all I've ever used for custom XLR wires. A bit more expensive, but man are they nice compared to some of the other junk that's out there.
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post #1839 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
You don't want posts .... You want speakon plates. I'll link you up when I sober up and get on the PC.

You either want posts and use raw wires. (Strip, twist, insert raw wire into binding posts). or... You want speakon connectors. Don't mix them. Speakons are really nice. Easy. Secure. Bare wire isn't exposed to oxidize over time. Fast connect and disconnect. But no reasons simple stripped wire clamped down onto a binding post won't work.

I found it a tad easier to make the neutrik speakon plates air tight and solid than the binding posts. Just use a 1" drill bit, and some construction adhesive and it fits the hole perfectly. Done. The plate overlaps the speaker backplate just enough to make you feel good about an airtight secure seal. The speakon plate itself screws down into the wood, but the adhesive will dry and make it really solid and airtight forever. Very easy to use, very easy to install. Once you start using speakon you are hooked on them forever.

I agree with exception of using construction adhesive. Use silicone caulk......just enough to seal. If you need to replace or tear our.......

Mfusick is a construction adhesive maniac! Will probably use construction adhesive in the future to make sure his twins sit at dinner table!
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post #1840 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post
…. Will probably use construction adhesive in the future to make sure his twins sit at dinner table!
Haha!

I see DW is submitting his entry for the post of day award early
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post #1841 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Are these the Speakons I should be looking at?

http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-198

And the other end. Is this correct connector on the back?

http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-059

I'm not sure what the difference is between a "Panel" mount and a "chassis" mount. Also, the plug says it works with 4-pole panel connectors. I assume it will work with the 2-pole as well. Is that correct?

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post #1842 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:33 AM
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Disregarding 4-pole vs 2-pole, look at the image for the back of this one. Notice it's solderless, and that gets my recommendation.
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-053
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post #1843 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
Disregarding 4-pole vs 2-pole, look at the image for the back of this one. Notice it's solderless, and that gets my recommendation.
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-053
+1

Those are the very same connects I used for columns. Make sure to get 4 pole for future options.
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post #1844 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 12:36 PM
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Here is the exact Neutrik connector that is being promoted above, only with a much wider flange and additional fixation:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054

One of the complaints of that smaller unit is that the flange barely covers the hole and that the two mounting screws are exceedingly close to the main pass-through hole, creating a potential tear out weakness. It's also easy to create a routered hole template to recess the circular Neutrik flush vs. the square Neutrik.

Pick your poison.
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post #1845 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post
I agree with exception of using construction adhesive. Use silicone caulk......just enough to seal. If you need to replace or tear our.......

Mfusick is a construction adhesive maniac! Will probably use construction adhesive in the future to make sure his twins sit at dinner table!
I call everything in a tube from a calk gun construction adhesive.. lol.

As long as whatever you use can both bond and seal up air tight you are good. Calk, adhesive, glue, whatever... Weatherstripping works too. As long as it's air tight you win.


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+1

Those are the very same connects I used for columns. Make sure to get 4 pole for future options.
I bought 4 pole and I never end up using them. What would you need them for ?

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post #1846 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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In continuing my analysis paralysis, would you guys go ahead and buy the surrounds for the wides all at once? I was planning to, but with the ATMOS updates coming, I'm not sure they will even be supported, or at least I'm not sure how many more generations they'll be with us. My impression is that wides didn't bring much to the table.

The cost of the two extra speakers is above my pain threshold, but I'd hate to end up deciding I want them only to find the speaker (or its components) no longer available. Then I have to deal with the timbre matching issue. To complicate things I don't currently, or likely in the near future, have a receiver that will process wides. So it will be a while before I'd get to use them, anyway. Having an OCD can be troubling at times!

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post #1847 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 04:20 PM
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How many do you need maximally? 12? 14?

4 sides, 2 rear, 2 wide, 4 ceiling. More?
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post #1848 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Just 8. 4 sides, 2 rear, and 2 wides.

I don't think I have room for two heights due to my soffit and ceiling height. The ceiling speakers will have to be different in order to get a wider dispersion pattern and to get a shallow speaker depth.

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post #1849 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 04:38 PM
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Just spend the $300 and pick up an extra pair of wides. The wides are cool, I've heard them. I like the effect. If you decide against having wides what is the worst case scenario ? You take the two speakers and use them some other place ? It's not a huge problem to have a kick ass pair of $300 speakers IMO

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post #1850 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, there are worse problems. Like I said, $300 is above today's pain threshold. It's amazing how that number just keeps getting lower as this project progresses

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post #1851 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 05:25 PM
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Yeah then no sweat. Skip it. Keep the $300 in your pocket. You'll be fine either way.

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post #1852 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Here is the exact Neutrik connector that is being promoted above, only with a much wider flange and additional fixation:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054

One of the complaints of that smaller unit is that the flange barely covers the hole and that the two mounting screws are exceedingly close to the main pass-through hole, creating a potential tear out weakness. It's also easy to create a routered hole template to recess the circular Neutrik flush vs. the square Neutrik.

Pick your poison.
I used those for subs, and fore-mentioned for columns.
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post #1853 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I bought 4 pole and I never end up using them. What would you need them for ?






SUBS!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #1854 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^ We've created a monster…. Or maybe it was Fred that created the monster. We've just fed it MOAR
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post #1855 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I know you guys have been dying to see just how far I got last week, so here we go.

With my columns mounted the next step is to put up the wainscoting. Now before you guys get to excited, I did not finish the wainscoting. I did get a good start, though. First step is to put a board on the floor to give me a mounting point for the bottom of the wainscoting. Not an issue on the riser and the stage, but the concrete portion was a little more trouble. I used Tapcons, and once I decided it was a disposable bit it went pretty quickly.



After that, I needed to put a board on the wall to give me something to mount bracing at the top of the wainscoting panels. Keep in mind that I'm mounting my wainscoting so the front is 7" from the wall. Nyal asked for 6" of space on the side walls for treatments. 7" will give me a little room to spare.



With the top boards mounted, I started with the wainscoting panels. I'm using 3/4" MDF in case anyone is curious.



And here's where I left things at the end of last week.



Still lots to do, but the room feels like I'm actually building a home theater now.

I don't know that I've mentioned this yet, but I decided to go with a front row of three rather than four. Nyal gave me the last little nudge that I needed. Why occupy the best seat in the room to an armrest and cup holder. To make that happen, I had to widen the front steps a bit. The most difficult part of that was adding another step light (four total) to help make things look a little more symmetric.
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post #1856 of 2038 Old 08-08-2014, 09:38 PM
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Looking really good. I see you put a cleat on the side of the column to support the upper part of the wainscot.....has your plan to make the column removable changed? With the size of those column openings, I wouldn't blame you one bit.
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post #1857 of 2038 Old 08-09-2014, 07:55 AM
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Tim... That avatar ...! Lol... It's freaking me out.
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Are those new locations for rear and side surrounds? The rears are much closer to corners than what my design called for.

Looking great.......at this stage, it won't be long until its done! Who knows, you might beat TMcG at the finish line!

I do see lots of sanding and sealer in the near future with all that MDF...........but you have so many options at your disposal! You have access to every trim profile under the sun for columns........

It really shows........I can see you are so methodical..........perfection has it's perks......and downfalls. Downfalls......... as in some of us want to see you enjoying room!
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post #1859 of 2038 Old 08-09-2014, 08:01 AM
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Tim... That avatar ...! Lol... It's freaking me out.

I agree! lol
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post #1860 of 2038 Old 08-09-2014, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looking really good. I see you put a cleat on the side of the column to support the upper part of the wainscot.....has your plan to make the column removable changed? With the size of those column openings, I wouldn't blame you one bit.
Good eye. You are correct. Once I put my columns up, I realized that after I attached the trim, it would be an ordeal to get them out anyway. So, I made an audible and decided to just make them a permanent fixture. As you said, the openings are large enough that I should be able to get anything I need in there. If I ever needed to take a column out, it would have required surgery to the trim anyway. This also gives me something solid to attach the wainscoting to.


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Tim... That avatar ...! Lol... It's freaking me out.
+1. That avatar will forever be the way I imagine TMcG to look

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Are those new locations for rear and side surrounds? The rears are much closer to corners than what my design called for.

Looking great.......at this stage, it won't be long until its done! Who knows, you might beat TMcG at the finish line!

I do see lots of sanding and sealer in the near future with all that MDF...........but you have so many options at your disposal! You have access to every trim profile under the sun for columns........

It really shows........I can see you are so methodical..........perfection has it's perks......and downfalls. Downfalls......... as in some of us want to see you enjoying room!
I left the side surrounds as DE designed. I moved the rear surrounds closer to the 150 degrees. I believe Nyal would have preferred them to be closer to 135, but sadly there's a blasted door in the way.

I'm still in denial about the amount of sanding that's going to be required. I keep telling myself that I'll fill, sand, and seal all the MDF before the trim goes up, so I'll be able to do all the sanding with a palm sander. That should make it easy, right?

I had originally envisioned elaborate trim work in the room, but as I'm getting closer, I think I'm leaning more towards a simpler look. The rest of our house has some pretty wide trim, but it's not overly elaborate. I think it gives our house a classy, but not formal, look which I like. So I'm leaning towards just baseboard, crown, the cap on the wainscoting, and faux panels on the wainscoting. If I do anything else it will just be to hide my other mistakes…… So yeah, fortunately I have a wide selection of trim profiles to choose from

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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