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post #2131 of 2142 Old Yesterday, 08:47 AM
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post #2132 of 2142 Old Yesterday, 09:29 AM
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Alright, so here comes a bombshell. I may be doing a 180 on my PJ selection. I'd pretty well settled on an Epson 5030 or 6030 and an A-lens in order to maintain brightness. Nyal pointed out that you don't actually get as much of a brightness boost as is often advertised by the A-lens manufacturers. Here's the link Nyal sent me (hopefully he won't mind). Best case is around 9% light increase over zooming, but I've got a feeling my UH480 isn't going to give best case. On top of that, there is an image quality loss due to the processing that has to take place. The 2.35 image has the black bars as part of the movie. There are not 1080 lines of information. So the scaler has to interpolate the 890 or so lines onto a 1080 grid. Bad processing gives a bad image. The zoom method doesn't have the extra processing, so your seeing the image as it's encoded on the disc.

All that said, I'm thinking about going with the AE8000 as equally bright as the Epson, has memory zoom, and it's cheaper. I can do the scaling in the AVR if I decide to use the A-lens.
I like my AE8000 and It can be had for a good price just use an authorized dealer. There are a few know issues and the good dealers will exchange it no questions asked. Check out the owners thread.
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post #2133 of 2142 Old Yesterday, 10:04 AM
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I like my AE8000 and It can be had for a good price just use an authorized dealer. There are a few know issues and the good dealers will exchange it no questions asked. Check out the owners thread.
This is the major advantage with the Epson IMO. In addition to good reliability and 3 year warranty, they have a zero tolerance on defects including stuck pixel.

And the service is top notch.

One (only 1!) stuck pixel they exchange it, and swap it out. New unit on your door step next day. Put your old one in the box and send it back. Good job Epson!

I've got a good friend that is a dealer for them all, and his main complaint about the Sony and JVC was about this. Neither had as liberal and easy warranty policy or as easy and friendly support process. It takes longer and costs more and it is more difficult to get an RMA. In the slow time it takes, he ends up giving his customers (he installs them professionally) a loaner unit while they wait for a repair or whatever. So his own demo unit or personal unit ends up getting a few hundred hours on it.

And that's because he's a stand up guy and decides to help out his customer personally while the MFG takes its time or doesn't. But it costs him, and it's just general pain that's better avoided.

Epson had a good reliability record generally across all its models and the few cases that need it they really just step up and handle it with an exchange so the entire ordeal is over in 48 hours and everyone is happy.

This might be more a problem for an installer that installs many of them all, than an enthusiast that only has 1. But it's nice to know Espon stands behind it's products so well, and just in case you need it the process is easy and fast.

At Cedia this was also one of the main points they drove home during their demos. I liked the LS10000 and the 6030 very much. I've seen the 6030 and 5030 other times and thought it looked just awesome then too. I know someone that has he 5030 and picture is fantastic. It's not even calibrated. I think I might have an opportunity to check out some projectors at the GTG in March too, so that should be cool. It's been a while since I was heavy into projectors, I'm almost in the market again so I should start looking I think.

Having owned a few brands I'd be highly inclined to choose Epson for my next one based on everything I know, and have learned, and my own personal experience with them already. I remember my first projector was an Infocus X1 that was only 480p DLP for $1000... Haha. I guess things keep getting better. I'm not ready for 4k yet though which is why I'm dragging my feet. I think I'm best served with a high value 1080p for now that can light a decent sized screen.
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post #2134 of 2142 Unread Today, 07:46 AM
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What is your priority? 235:1 movies? 16x9 sports?

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post #2135 of 2142 Unread Today, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not sure there's a clear priority for me. I tend to like action, adventure, scifi movies, so a lot of that content will be 2.35. However, I plan to do a lot of gaming in my theater as well, and that will be 16:9. It may end up being a 50/50 split for me.

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post #2136 of 2142 Unread Today, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
I'm not sure there's a clear priority for me. I tend to like action, adventure, scifi movies, so a lot of that content will be 2.35. However, I plan to do a lot of gaming in my theater as well, and that will be 16:9. It may end up being a 50/50 split for me.
Sounds like me. You ideally would want to prioritize one or the other.

If you do a 2:35 screen and lense you can just stretch 16x9 to fill the screen. It's not bad. Or you can go without the lense and go throw up masking panels. Do you care?

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post #2137 of 2142 Unread Today, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I actually have an automated slide for my lens as well, but bars don't really bother me. Everyone tells me my screen size is too large as it is for both 2.35 and 16:9. I probably need to bite the bullet and buy a PJ so I can test it out myself.

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post #2138 of 2142 Unread Today, 09:18 AM
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Thanks for the email. Here we go.
OK sorry I forgot all about this.

So I was asking what the sealing calk is for?

There can be different strategies for sealing the box joints, versus the woofer, waveguide/CD, and terminals.

For the box sealing- I use PL premium when I construct my boxes. Wood glue isn't trust worth for airtightness. It works, but not quite well enough for me. If I used wood glue I would go back and hit all the interior corners and joints with some simple caulk, like the weatherproofing stuff you buy cheap at the hardware store for the caulk gun. The stuff that is designed to be weatherproof, (I.E water and air sealing.)

Put on a latex glove, and use your finger to push it into the joint and smooth it flat. That's all.

If you use PL premium, do the same thing except you can use the PL premium squeeze out and do not need the caulk. When I glue up my boxes I usually put the PL on a tad heavy, expecting squeeze out. Squeeze out is good, you want that. When possible I put it on heavy on the inside, so the majority of the squeeze out goes inside the box if possible. Not always possible to do it like that though, and I also take a normal glue brush and trim the bristle length in half so they are shorter and stiffer, and spread the PL smooth and butter across the entire surface. I apply the PL to the cut end, or the 3/4" end of the piece, and not to the flat factory surface that would otherwise be part of the 4x8 surface of the sheet. Hopefully that makes sense? The PL adheres fine to either so I don't think it's that sensitive but that's just how I find it works best. When the squeeze out occurs do the same latex glove and finger thing, spreading smooth the PL premium in the joint. When it hardens it's all over, and air tight. There is nothing extra you need to do. It will never leak or break apart.

If you want a picture let me know, but really it's simple:

Shoot PL on the piece, spread it smooth and cover entire surface with a small glue brush, stick it together and either brad nail it in place while it cures, or use a clamp. I like to do both. I brad it first, then after the box is built I clamp up to tighten it up while it dries. The brads allow sufficient rigidity and structure to move the box around before the glue is cured, so I usually build with with brads as permanent clamps, move it to where I want to leave it for 24 hours and then clamp it up nice and tight. I often use gravity to help, if you have a heavy subwoofer, some cast iron tools, gallons of paint, car battery, 5 gallon bucket of sheetrock compound etc... place it on top. There is always something laying around. Then all you need to really clamp is the two sides with horizontal placed clamps, because gravity does the vertical directions for you. Saves you on needing a million clamps if you do multiple boxes on the same day.

That is how I do it. Then sharpen a chisel up really nice so you can shave with it, and run it along the outside squeeze out after it cures, it peels right off perfectly flush and nice looking saving you a lot of finish work. If the PL is fighting you wait another day or so and let it cure better. It should be fairly easy to come right off when you do this.

That should get you air tight boxes. There is a lot of room for error if you do it my way. If the cut is off a tad, or there is a small gap the PL makes up for that. You'll want super identical cuts if you use wood glue. Are you making your own boxes? Like cutting the pieces?

I love the tracks saw, but I find that after they are all cut up setting the fence on the table saw and running every piece through with the identical dimension is still a great idea. Sometimes it only takes off a 1/16th of an inch, occasionally it takes of 1/8th or 1/4" and I say to myself WTF was going on when I marked it? The process takes probably 5 minutes and results in a perfectly square box, and allows me to mentally relax when using the track saw and not have to measure twice, pay attention etc... When I set the track down, I usually do it in the direction it will be slightly over, and not under the line- resulting in a piece that is either perfect or slightly bigger than I needed. Just make sure you put the track down on the right side of the line to do that, and you'll come out fine.

As for woofers- I like the adhesive stick on stuff.

http://www.parts-express.com/parts-e...-roll--260-542

Stick it onto the back of the woofer. It curves nice and is easy to work with. The back of the woofer is usually machine metal and perfectly flat, it should stick right on and not at all be a source of poor seal. The rubberized gasket material then faces the enclosure and will compress when you tighten down the woofer making an air tight seal. This stuff works really good. Sometimes subwoofers or speaker kits might come with some. But this stuff is GOLD. This is also the same stuff you use on the back of the SEOS15 and waveguides. Same idea... stick it directly onto the waveguide.

AE TD15M + SEOS15 + DNA360 (active crossover) Need advice pls... :)

That post had some pics when I did mine. I actually used both.

First the stick on stuff,



Then the putty crap:








The putty strips also work great for speaker terminal plugs:




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post #2139 of 2142 Unread Today, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the detailed post. Makes a lot of sense! I used Titebond on my surround boxes. They're ported, so I wouldn't expect a lot of pressure in the box. I do plan to hit the inside with some caulk, and I'll use PL when I put the baffle on. I'll plan on PL for the entire box going forward.

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post #2140 of 2142 Unread Today, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Did you drill the recess for that speakon using a drill press? How deep did you drill it? I would have make the recess the same thickness as the connector, but that wouldn't account for the sealant.

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post #2141 of 2142 Unread Today, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
Thanks for the detailed post. Makes a lot of sense! I used Titebond on my surround boxes. They're ported, so I wouldn't expect a lot of pressure in the box. I do plan to hit the inside with some caulk, and I'll use PL when I put the baffle on. I'll plan on PL for the entire box going forward.
Tightbond is fine, it's just not as airtight or have the same gap filling properties as PL. If your wood is cut well Tightbond is absolutely fine.

I just like overkill. But PL is a lot messier. Give and take. No right or wrong.

I'd lean more towards PL for a single baffle and single wall subwoofer box. Or a horn. The pressure is heavier. For a ported or any small speaker the Tightbond is fine. I used Tightbond on my fusion 8 bookshelfs. But I've found the PL spread out with the latex finger in the joint is perfection when it comes to easy air tightness in one step, without any worry about it in the future. One step.
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post #2142 of 2142 Unread Today, 10:38 AM
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Did you drill the recess for that speakon using a drill press? How deep did you drill it? I would have make the recess the same thickness as the connector, but that wouldn't account for the sealant.
No.

I don't think I'm as scientific or as exact as you are. Haha.

I used a 15$ Ryobi cordless drill with a 2" Ryobi Forstner bit. I did it free hand, guessing how deep to go. You just tilt the drill a tad if it's off level, till it's about right. I guess how deep, never measured. Came out about right and wasn't too hard. I didn't account for the putty either, it spreads flat, and fills the gaps in the terminal cup. Just wait a minute between snugging the screws, and try a 1/4 turn again.
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