Electrical is 90% complete!
The existing wiring was a real mess. Since the basement remained unfinished, they ran metallic flex conduit. Each pump (sump/sewage) had it's own circuit. Air handler had its own 220 circuit. Everything else in the basement was on a single circuit so that flex conduit was ran all over the place. What's worse is everything was joined together in metal junction boxes so to trace a wire you'd have to go through up to 4 junction boxes. Damn lazy electricians.
Added 13 circuits and reused that one existing circuit ripping out the majority of the junction boxes and rewiring with romex.
For the lighting, I ended up with:
- 8 6" cans in office on 2 separate dimming zones
- Fan in office on its own switch
- 1 4" can between stairs and office doors on its own switch (existing)
- 2 4" cans at bottom of stairs on 3 way switch (existing)
- 4 6" cans in center area on 3way/4way/3way switch
- 2 5" cans over wetbar on switch
- 1 5" can in communicating door area
- 1 Fluorescent fixture in equipment closet due to proximity to wall
- 1 pull switch light for cat box under stairs
Whats remaining is the theater lighting. Decided on:
- 8 5" remodel cans in backer boxes
- 3 4" remodel cans in backer boxes for screen accent light
- 3 4" remodel cans in rear soffit
- I guess I need step lights too. I don't really want them, but I think they are required for a riser higher then 8"
Was planning on using a Grafik Eye setup like most here but just realized that it apparently does not support CFL/LED dimming on the 3100 model without a special add on model that I assume would be per zone. I guess I would be stuck using incandescent - not that that's terrible given how little the theater lighting would probably be used, but I like to leave myself a better upgrade path then to replace the entire 3100 unit or buy a bunch of add ons. Need to do some more research on this, but please chime in if you went through this same problem.
I also built my first backer box yesterday as a test fit. It's going to be a challenge lining them up with all the crap up in the trusses now. I spoke to Ted and he said to just balance them up there and then after drywall pull them down and apply the latex sealant to the box edge. Not exactly sure how I'm going to do that through a 5" hole, but I'll need to figure it out.
I'll post some progress pics later, maybe after I sweep up a bit.