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post #271 of 3019 Old 09-20-2011, 02:23 PM
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Yes let there be light! Hey if you get bored you could start cutting the triangular bits for the corner bass traps. Install the step lights. Assemble your rack so we can get the exact measurements and figure how we are going to pop it into the wall, attach and support. Just some ideas.
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post #272 of 3019 Old 09-20-2011, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Yes let there be light! Hey if you get bored you could start cutting the triangular bits for the corner bass traps. Install the step lights. Assemble your rack so we can get the exact measurements and figure how we are going to pop it into the wall, attach and support. Just some ideas.

I can't assemble the rack yet... it is still on the way. I have some of the OC703, but not enough to do the bass traps. The rest will arrive this week sometime. So there is really nothing I can do yet.

I did spend some time trying to figure out exactly where the top of the center wall panels will be, to help determine if I want to do trim between the top black wall panels and the middle red panels. I am thinking more like a 2" trim, but the exact height will be determined by the door casing I think. We'll either have to line it up with the top of the door or have the top of the door panel extend over the door a couple of inches. Since it is above I dont think that is a problem. I don't want to make an extra seam in the panels now that we are moving the door to fix the panel space exactly.

I never mentioned that here! There is 7' between the two columns on the side wall. So we will make 3 panels of equal width, 2'4" each. We initially had a space for a 32" door, but it was also very close to the side rear column in the room. So we decided to move it. Shrink it to a 28" door so that it matches a panel size, and move it horizontally so it it directly in between the two columns. The two adjacent panels will overlap the casing of the door to be all equal sizes.
The door is 1 3/4" thick, and we have a 1" wall treatment. So I purchased extra-wide hinges which are 1" longer on each side of an unfolded hinge. The hinge is wider so that the pivot point starts 1" into the room (or in other words, where the fabric panels extend to) and that will prevent it from rubbing/sticking.

I also purchased a door handle from doorknobdiscountcenter.com (Thank you BIG) which you can get Emtek door knobs/handles with custom width door kits. So we "pretend" the door is actually 2 3/4" thick (the 1" panel plus the 1 3/4" door) and will put 1" blocking on the door, that way the handle can be mounted directly to the outside of the panel in the room!

EDIT: Tons of typos and bad wording fixed in the above wall of text.
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post #273 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I never mentioned that here! There is 7' between the two columns on the side wall. So we will make 3 panels of equal width, 2'4" each. We initially had a space for a 32" door, but i was also started very close to the side rear panel in the room. So we decided to move it. Shrink it to a 28" door so that it matches a panel size. And the two adjacent panels will overlap the casing.

The door is 1 3/4" thick, and we have a 1" wall treatment. So I purchased extra-wide hinges which are 1" longer on each side of an unfolded hinge. The hinge is wider so that the pivot point starts 1" into the room (or in other words, where the fabric panels extend to) and that will prevent it from rubbing/sticking.

I also purchased a door handle from doorknobdiscountcenter.com (Thank you BIG) which you can get Emtek door knobs/handles with custom width door kits. So we "pretend" the door is actually 2 3/4" thick (the 1" panel plus the 1 3/4" door) and will put 1" blocking on the door, that way the handle can be mounted directly to the outside of the panel in the room!

Sweet! Amazing what you can accomplish with a little planning and help from the 'BIG' man...

Chris

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post #274 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 12:26 PM
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Lets see, this morning I had to sit in a waiting room so I could drive my Wife home from a colonoscopy and this afternoon sitting around watching paint dry.



Not a lot of excitement in this thread. Come back tomorrow as we make the fabric frames for the bottom of the soffit. We are going to do something you've never seen before.
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post #275 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 12:30 PM
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Like.......PROGRESS? I know I don't know what that looks like.

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post #276 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 12:39 PM
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Not a lot of excitement? Are you kidding. You need to slow down - your putting the rest of us to shame.
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post #277 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Lets see, this morning I had to sit in a waiting room so I could drive my Wife home from a colonoscopy and this afternoon sitting around watching paint dry.



Not a lot of excitement in this thread. Come back tomorrow as we make the fabric frames for the bottom of the soffit. We are going to do something you've never seen before.


If I had to just guess I'd say that's another picture of primer since it looks almost identical to the first picture. But in the last email you sent me you said "2nd coat of black"... those don't look very black! Is that just bad lighting, or the wrong pic... OR neither??

Last edited by damelon; 08-18-2017 at 07:42 AM.
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post #278 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 01:20 PM
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It's the paint you bought! It is just the lighting that makes it look gray, what you see is a reflection of the overcast sky.
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post #279 of 3019 Old 09-21-2011, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

It's the paint you bought! It is just the lighting that makes it look gray

I know but I get worried when something says BLACK, shows a nice black bar for the color next to the word BLACK, and then I think it looks silver/gray in a pic. As it is another gorgeous day outside (NOT) I can see how the lighting is bad.
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post #280 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 07:03 AM
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Big do you even need to paint those with black paint? The black primer looks like it would be enough on its own.

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post #281 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Big do you even need to paint those with black paint? The black primer looks like it would be enough on its own.

It is just that the lighting was bad in the photos. The primer is/was a silver gray color, and the black was actually black. But in his photos they look almost the same. They definitely turned out black! I spent the entire day wiring up those little recessed lights. That little "gang box" on the top of the light can is like 1.5" x 1.5" x 1.5". It is not easy to feed in two 12 gauge romex pulls, twist them to the light cans and get them all stuffed in that little box. Black lights look great against the red light tray. I'm sure we will get some pictures soon.

Someone asked about heat. The bulbs are hot, but most bulbs are... I could touch the top of the recessed light cans over the light tray and there was no trace of heat. Maybe I'd need to run them a few hours but only the bulb faces were hot. The light is excellent from these little things!

BIG brought a pig tail (A plug cord with bare wires) so we could test the lights, but it is some weird asian cord which has black blue and green wires. Our first attempted was a brown-out breaker trip and our second attempt just went ZAP/BANG and we decided to give up on the pig tail experiment and wire it to the circuits I already had pre-wired for the lighting. That worked perfectly.

Bass traps are cut and sitting in the front corners. Just a stack of triangular OC703.... but just that in the room eliminated about 80% of the echo. Going to be creepy-dead once all the walls are treated.

BIG has been slaving all day with the wood putty and orbital sander on the columns. He is determined to finish his sanding before going home. Heading back down, picture updates soon!
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post #282 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 03:35 PM
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I see how this build is going, Damelon upstairs surfing the web, chatting on forums and who knows what else. Probably drinking a few adult beverages too all awhile Big Is downstairs slaving in the HT.

Gotta love it..

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post #283 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 03:44 PM
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Big, what is the going rate for an elite HT specialist workhorse like yourself?
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post #284 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 03:51 PM
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Big, what is the going rate for an elite HT specialist workhorse like yourself?

And do you travel to Ohio?

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post #285 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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To get big to travel I think you would have to get him lodging to stay and work non-stop... and give him food! He doesn't work FOR food though. And he said earlier that if you needed his tools he would be required to drive.

Two columns left to sand... couldn't quite finish today. Resuming on Saturday.

I decided to finish all of the HT's wiring for lights. In addition to the side/rear light tray lights I mentioned earlier, the 4 stage recessed lights are now done as are the two step lights. I think I have like 4 blisters (first finger and thumb on each hand) from twisting those stupid wire terminators.

Plans for Saturday:

Polish help returns to move the entrance door to the theater. I think it is moving 15" closer to the front of the room. That will involve partial demolition of a wall, and then building the space in, drywall (double with green glue) and mud.... AGAIN. My wife surprisingly did not complain when I told her. We're also shrinking the door size from 32" to 28".

Finish sanding the columns, then sealing them and re-sanding them.

The rack arrived, so we will build a casing for it that will extend into the rear of the room 4" to match where the wall treatments will be, and will go back to be flush with the inside wall of the equipment room. We will have to build a small platform behind that to rest the remainder of the rack on.

Finish electrical wiring for outlets in the electrical room and possibly the overhead light there.

Build the underside soffit panels. BIG got a great deal on some higher quality plywood from Home Depot but mis-measured and cut it too short. Fortunately it looks like we can hide the 3/4" gap behind the wall treaments, which are 1" deep. So once the wall treatments are up, the gap should be invisible. We did a dry-fit of the piece of plywood and it appears that it should work, but we will have to triple measure to make sure.
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post #286 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 05:52 PM
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Big, what is the going rate for an elite HT specialist workhorse like yourself?

PM sent.
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post #287 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 05:52 PM
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If not a simple fix would be quarter round trim or similar should do the job too.

Why the change in door location and size?

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post #288 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 05:52 PM
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And do you travel to Ohio?

If we can work out the logistics, yes.
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post #289 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 05:54 PM
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If we can work out the logistics, yes.

Getting ready to post why I didn't get a PM too but you are quick...!


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post #290 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:Originally Posted by tbraden32

If not a simple fix would be quarter round trim or similar should do the job too.

Why the change in door location and size?


We don't want to put trim over the fabric panels... it would look a little strange. And that is also a lot more painting/cutting, etc that we don't need to do.

As for the door, there is 7' between the two side columns. We want the wall to be solid fabric.. and we didn't want to see the door. The door opening is very close to the rear side column right now... like 6" away. It was going to be very tight to fit the light switches there AND have room for the fabric frame.

7' divides into 3 panels that are 2' 4" each. If we made the door 28" (2' 4") and moved it, it could be hidden directly behind the center panel. It would also give us about a foot and a half extra space for our 4 light dimmers. Since the door will fit a panel exactly, we will not have to make extra irregular shaped panels that would not be even with the design to the rest of the room. (The room design have several references to the number 3, so there are 3 of a lot of things... it's sort of the theme)

Examples of 3:
3 tiers to the light tray
3 red horizontal panels between each column side-by-side
3 sets of moulding (1 baseboard, 1 chair, 1 above the panels above that)
3 sets of trim/ribbing on the columns above and below the speaker grille
3 vertical divisions of the black fabric panel below the chair rail moulding

See sketch below (Look to the right of the column... sort of the panel layout... though there is another set of trim stenciled in at the top of the wall that will not be there in the finished room.

Last edited by damelon; 08-18-2017 at 07:44 AM.
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post #291 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 06:13 PM
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I see lots of planning on this build and it's definitely paying off. Can't wait till the final product is completed.

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post #292 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 06:30 PM
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Some pictures of the day. Didn't get everything done that we hoped, but we always set our goals high.

The first order of the day was to measure, mark and cut the 15 holes for the 3 inch recessed lights in the light tray.



Then Damelon wired them up while I filled all the nail holes in the columns and sanded getting ready for finishing.

These shots are just with the perimeter light tray lights. check out the bass traps Damelon cut and stacked.





I talked him into popping in the step lights.

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post #293 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 07:14 PM
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Spectacular as always BIG!

It's obvious you've done your homework damelon. VERY nice build thus far.
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post #294 of 3019 Old 09-22-2011, 08:27 PM
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post #295 of 3019 Old 09-24-2011, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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BIG's post from above:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Some pictures of the day. Didn't get everything done that we hoped, but we always set our goals high.

The first order of the day was to measure, mark and cut the 15 holes for the 3 inch recessed lights in the light tray.



Then Damelon wired them up while I filled all the nail holes in the columns and sanded getting ready for finishing.

These shots are just with the perimeter light tray lights. check out the bass traps Damelon cut and stacked.





I talked him into popping in the step lights.




Saturday Recap:

So last night I found out that my Polish helpers decided to go to Denver and wouldn't be available until next week. So much for having them move my door while BIG and I worked on other things. It ended up changing our plans for the day.

So first thing we did today? The work we expected them to do! We demolished about 15" wide by 81" high of already finished wall to make room for the new doorway. Then we had to put in new side-studs and fill in some of the additional horizontal door-framing on the demo'd side. Then we had to frame in a small section that was more like 19" or so to the previous side of the old doorway. Now we have a doorway that is centered between the two columns! After going to Lowes to pick up some supplies, we grabbed some lunch and headed back.... where I was immediately assaulted by a window salesman. While I suffered though the pitch, BIG went to go work on the doorway with his new gunpowder nail gun. We didn't really get to do our "planned" work until 2pm. We bounced a few ideas around but with some blocking and re-use of ALL of our wood, we got it done. What can I say, the man builds a good wall.

Note: Green glue on an already vertical wall is a fun thing to watch. You really needed a video to appreciate the humor in the "SPLAT" each goop made when it hit the wall. I think BIG was having WAAAY too much fun.

BIG had to finish sanding the last two columns and then start using sanding sealer to prep them all for priming. And about priming... we said "Make it this color gray" but the example was from a different brand, so they said they couldn't. But with THIS brand I could chose any color, and not just gray. So I pulled out a full crimson color close to our red we are using.... but it came out pink and they said it was supposed to be lighter. I didn't want it lighter though,I wanted it a nice dark gray. So I'm going to take it back and demand a dark gray tomorrow. I will put no pink paint on these columns!

While BIG was busy with the column work and some finishing touches on our new doorway, I filled up the soffit with insulation and cotton. That actually went pretty quick. So I went to put up the red rope light. Let me tell you, we tried so hard to take a good picture, because when the lights are off and the rope light is on, the edges of the ceiling all look like there are flames from the soffit towards the middle of the room. But since it was dark, the long exposure kept amplifying the light, so it looked nothing like what it looks like. I'm going to have to find a good photographer to capture that look so we could show it to you.

After I was done with the rope light, I went into the equipment room and got the overhead light and the media rack outlets wired up. Finally circuit #2 could be enabled on the breaker box. A much needed independent circuit outlet is now available for our use!

I then cracked open the boxes to the acoustical cotton BPape sent me. I love this stuff! It has such a great feel to it and is really compacted. The only problem is that it is a PAIN IN THE ASS to cut. I tried a utility knife, I tried a drywall saw, i tried scissors, I tried a bread knife... they all sucked. BUT... in the end I used some of each and covered the front wall in 2" 3lb dense cotton.

BIG was just finishing sealing the last column when I bored a hole from the equipment room to the soffit for a small 8" conduit to run the rear speaker cables. I caulked the edges and called it a day.

So since we were delayed, there was no work to the soffit panels, no priming of the columns, and no work on the framing of the equipment rack.... BUT, there is always tomorrow!

NOTE: I need to really start taking my own pictures! It's a strange feeling not taking pictures of my own build. I was telling BIG today that since he is taking all of the pics and doing most of the write-ups it doesn't even feel like my thread! So I apologize that there are no photos with this write-up.

Last edited by damelon; 08-18-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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post #296 of 3019 Old 09-24-2011, 08:25 PM
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Did you try an electric carving knife? Works a treat on OC 703 and Roxul AFB, I would think it would work on the cotton too?
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post #297 of 3019 Old 09-24-2011, 09:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Did you try an electric carving knife? Works a treat on OC 703 and Roxul AFB, I would think it would work on the cotton too?

No I did not, but the consistency of the 2" cotton is like the worst part of fiberglass when you try to cut it.... it clumps and bunches and tears. At least fiberglass can be squished and easily cut with a utility knife. This doesn't work that way. The bread knife I used sliced through the OC703 like soft butter. The cotton just tears and shreds in weird chunks. BIG suggested we try a table saw. I emailed Bryan Pape about it. The cotton is an awesome material. I just need to solve the mystery of carving it!
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post #298 of 3019 Old 09-24-2011, 09:55 PM
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Looks like some others did have success using a table saw (I assume with a very fine blade):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=887010
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post #299 of 3019 Old 09-24-2011, 10:29 PM
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Some more support for the table saw suggestion (at the very end of the article):
http://www.buildinggreen.com/live/in...how-to-install
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post #300 of 3019 Old 09-25-2011, 05:22 AM
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OK, yesterday was a long work day and when I got home, I ate and slept pictures didn't get posted.

In the beginning we had a door in an awkward location



We cut away a bunch of stuff



added some studding



Then some drywall, acoustical sealant, Green Goo and another layer



As for needing a professional Photographer? I'll just bring over my DSLR and tripod and set the right exposure time and we get a good shot, until then here is what a red rope light looks like only it isn't this bright in real life.



I told Damelon he should name the space the Red Light District Theater. In person it is a really interesting effect even with the other lights on, almost "flame like" as D pointed out.
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