The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 2473 Old 09-30-2011, 11:14 AM
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But that is at the threshold, correct? So haveing that 4" w x 36" L x 3/4" high piece of limestone as the threshold it could engage on that right?
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post #362 of 2473 Old 09-30-2011, 11:17 AM
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Yep. Assuming the limestone is smooth and not finished with a texture, yes.

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post #363 of 2473 Old 09-30-2011, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

News:

It looks like two of my big decisions were decided for me yesterday. I talked with Benito at AVScience, and decided on the JVC-RS45 projector since the pre-order pricing is amazing!

In addition, BIG got Ruben(SMX) in touch with me yesterday and he's offering me a great price on my screen, so I decided on my Screen! I'll be getting a 130" wide 2.35:1 SMX Proline CineweaveHD screen, with the Pro Panels for 16:9 content.

I am going to wait and see how well I can tune it out of the box, but I may or may not get a Radiance Mini 3d as well.


Theater is coming along great (and quickly)...I am jealous. I just wanted to post and say that you are a bad influence on me...as I also called for a price on the RS45...if I were making better progress on my theater I would have preordered.

As it stands, I look forward to hearing your review once you have it installed.
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post #364 of 2473 Old 09-30-2011, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Theater is coming along great (and quickly)...I am jealous. I just wanted to post and say that you are a bad influence on me...as I also called for a price on the RS45...if I were making better progress on my theater I would have preordered.

As it stands, I look forward to hearing your review once you have it installed.


Well the pre-order pricing for the RS45 costs nothing. You just give your contact info to lock yourself in for pre-order pricing. If it turns out that I finish my theater in a month, and the projector won't ship until end of the year, I may just buy the new Panny. There are no fees for cancelling.

Got the wide-throw hinges today!
Also got the huge butcher blade insul-knife for my cotton insulation panel cutting
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post #365 of 2473 Old 10-01-2011, 04:47 PM
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Damelon and I worked hard today on may things including painting the columns, wrapping the soffit panels with fabric then mounting on the bottom of the soffit, and installing the rack in the wall.

D put a second coat on the columns and we had to stand one in place and take a look. I added the speaker grill by way of Photoshop, we haven't yet put that fabric on.

So here is a preview of the painted columns.

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post #366 of 2473 Old 10-01-2011, 04:58 PM
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Hey BIG, looking great but why is that speaker column so close to the stage?
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post #367 of 2473 Old 10-01-2011, 05:07 PM
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Big stage, that column is purely decorative. Damelon is doing his personal adaptation of this theater:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...56#post6105356
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post #368 of 2473 Old 10-01-2011, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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LOL nice photoshop there big... I was like, what is that black blob? Camera going a little brown on you again. When we finished up today, seeing that red and black together looked so striking, we had to stand up a column. It really is a red that pops out at you (See some of the previous pics of the fabrics for a better idea)

Tomorrow we plan to touch up some last paintwork and get those columns mounted and the grilles covered.

Then it is time for panels... lots and LOTS of panels.

BIG keeps reminding me that the room will look awesome as long as I don't pick an awful carpet. I actually don't like most carpets so I think that won't be too difficult. But who knows... rainbow shag carpet?
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post #369 of 2473 Old 10-02-2011, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

So here is a preview of the painted columns.

:two thumbs up:

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post #370 of 2473 Old 10-02-2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Damelon and I worked hard today on may things including painting the columns, wrapping the soffit panels with fabric then mounting on the bottom of the soffit, and installing the rack in the wall.

D put a second coat on the columns and we had to stand one in place and take a look. I added the speaker grill by way of Photoshop, we haven't yet put that fabric on.

So here is a preview of the painted columns.


I know you said you were getting inspiration from Sandman's theater (who wouldn't be inspired by it), but I like how you have made some of the changes that make it unique. I have a feeling that I will be taking some of your ideas for my theater as well. I applaud both you and BIG for the great work.
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post #371 of 2473 Old 10-02-2011, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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So I know BIG took tons of pictures this weekend. A lot of which include step by step of putting up columns, applying fabric, and things like that. We accomplished a LOT. He didn't leave until after 9pm tonight. We just bulled through all of the column work until it was done, though we scuffed up every column one way or another since the paint wasn't 100% dry. I'll do some touch up during the week. Here are 3 nice pics of the current state of the room after we cleaned it.

Front


Angle


Back
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post #372 of 2473 Old 10-02-2011, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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We really made the column heights exact... which was a big issue during final assembly, because with the added space of the fabric wrapped around the speaker panels, they really needed to be pushed in. We should have made the middle parts all 1/8" - 1/4" shorter so they would easily slide in or out.

The columns are all filled with R38 insulation, and the walls inside of the grilles have 2" 3lb cotton against them. There are 4 rear surround speakers in the back 4 columns already wired up so we don't have to open them up again.

Each column has 1 outlet box on one side of the base, to be inconspicuous to the rest of the room, depending on the column in question. You shouldn't be able to see any of them walking into the room with the furniture in the room. But it gives us the ability to plug in things like a vacuum without a problem.

You can see the rack is mounted in the rear corner too, but nothing is put into it yet or the smoked plexi door not put in place yet.

BIG took the door hinges from me today and will hope to drop them off at Accent Millwork early this week to try and get my doors delivered by next weekend or the beginning of the week after that.

Here is another up close picture of one of the underside soffit panels where we had a cutout for the HVAC register. You can see the staples here but the register cover will hide them. It will be black also.
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post #373 of 2473 Old 10-02-2011, 09:15 PM
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Much better shots than my pocket jobber. It was a challenge today for certain, a lot of strong language was required to keep us moving forward at some points. I will post some of the construction details tomorrow night.

If anything the room even looks better in person when you can take it all in at once.

Now it is on to the wall panels!
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post #374 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 02:40 AM
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Everything looks great! Can't wait to see the details.

If I remember correctly, you went with 50 watt halogen lights for the soffit (3"?). How far apart did you space them? Is that the primary light source in the room, or will you have sconces as well?

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post #375 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 03:32 AM
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The room has the 15 mini recessed lights, rope light, and step lights, The pictures you see are taken with those light sources. That is all that Damelon has planned for the room and you can see it is plenty.

The lights are about 51 inches apart on the sides. 43.5 apart along the back wall

Over the screen they are 32.5 inches center to center.
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post #376 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

We really made the column heights exact... which was a big issue during final assembly, because with the added space of the fabric wrapped around the speaker panels, they really needed to be pushed in. We should have made the middle parts all 1/8" - 1/4" shorter so they would easily slide in or out.

Yes, this turned out to be a pain. When we started we measured floor to soffit framing at 92 inches so we said let's make all the columns 91 inches.

That would allow for the 3/4 inch soffit frame bottoms and all the various fabric wraps. Well it was an underestimate. In hindsight we should have made all the columns to 90 3/4.

Lucky for us the space around the room was remarkably uniform. I've been in some basements where the height can vary by an inch from side to side.
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post #377 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 05:30 AM
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Absolutely amazing!! Very jealous... Keep up the excellent work!

Hopefully the soffit fabric is part of the how-to.
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post #378 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 05:56 AM
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How are you achieving the fire like look with the upper rope light?
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post #379 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 06:13 AM
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WOW--- Awesome--

Question-How much overhang on the stage and riser do you think is necessary to make sure a "lip" is visual after carpeting? (wrapping up my riser/stage now)
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post #380 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the compliments. I'll try to answer some questions.

Overhang - BIG knows this, he had this little wooden contraption he had previously built, AKA the "magic spacer tool" that he used to cut the overhang. I'd guess it is about 1 1/2" from memory, but he can answer that.

Rope Light - The fire effect was fortunately just how the rope light turned out. I picked up a spool of 5/8" ultra bright red rope light from 1000 bulbs. I literally just wrapped it around the room and nailed it to the wall with little round clips. It's not absolutely pulled tight straight, because the clips can't hold that tension, so it sort of wavers a bit up and down (hence why the lighting isn't uniform). Height wise, it is against the wall right where our little light-box blockers ended vertically. I just used those as my height spacers. The flat black paint sort of soaks up the light so it bleeds away. The nicest effect is how it lines the bottom of the trim along the top with a bright red line. It's very distinct when entering the room.

Soffit Fabric. Oddly enough, wrapping the soffit panels was much harder than the speaker frames. Mostly due to the round edges of the pipes. There was a lot more places for the fabric to catch on the plywood. We just used 8' long 3/4" plywood for the soffit panels. On the sections that covered the HVAC ducts, we made it a solid plywood board. On the other sections, we cut out the center. You may wonder why we bothered to do this, since it ends up just a frame. Seems like a lot of waste for wood, but in truth, it was easy, almost cost the same, and saved a ton of time. Making frames out of MDF or plywood that would not bend under the tension of the tightened GOM would not be easy. Plywood natrually is very difficult to bend in the direction parallel to its compression pattern (from side to side across the 3/4" thickness) unless it is an extreme length. We had 2 8' panels that were completely open in the middle. We made one completely hollow, and the other two big holes (so there is a middle support). There were two shorter hollow panels that were about 4'6" or so, and that did not need a support. But the 8' panel did, or it would bend.

BIG posted some pictures (Open Smaller Panel)


and (HVAC panel, solid, with a cutout for the HVAC register)


We basically made sure the panel was straight along the fabric and used a fabric stapler on one corner, and then pulled it tight on the same side to the opposite corner and stapled there. Then we would run staples across that entire side. Then we would pull the fabric across the panel and tighten it in the center of the opposite side and staple there. In small sections about 8" long BIG would pull across the width of the panel tight and slightly away from the center staples and we would run a half dozen staples down the other side. We would repeat this in these small sections until getting to the corner. Then we did the same thing to the opposite side of the center. Then we would staple the center of one end, and then pull it tight on the opposite end and staple the center there. Then we would repeat the same things we did on the sides, finally folding over the corners like a gift package.

On panels like the ones with the HVAC register, once the panel was completely wrapped and tight against the surface, we would staple along the edges of the HVAC register cutout to make sure it remained tight after we cut it, and then with a utility knife & shears, we cut across the middle of the hole, and then diagonal towards the 4 corners so that we could wrap the fabric around the inside. We then stapled that fabric on the opposite side of the panel.
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post #381 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

If I remember correctly, you went with 50 watt halogen lights for the soffit (3"?). How far apart did you space them? Is that the primary light source in the room, or will you have sconces as well?
Nick

We basically put one light directly above each column, and then evenly spaced out the rest to be between each column. We made them closer and sort of follow the arc of the front light-tray section. They provide a lot of light. I will likely have them dimmed all the time. It does leave a "hole" of direct light in the center of the room, so when using that space as a workshop we still used a work light for up close detail, but in final room use, this will not be needed. They do warm up the room when they are all on at full brightness all day, but who would run their HT lights like that? This is basically our stress-test.
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post #382 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 07:27 AM
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2x10" or 2x12" for the back riser and any concerns over someone banging their head on the projector when they stand up in the dark?

My perpetual home theater build - Omaha Theater #5
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post #383 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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It's 2x12"s in the back. There is about 6'6" or so between the riser and the bottom of the soffit, and the soffit is 10" high. So if the bottom of the projector was more than 10" down, then it could be a problem, assuming we mount it close enough and the person is tall enough. It could always be mounted close to the back light tray and that would never happen, but I might not do that to keep brightness higher.
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post #384 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for the info on the soffits. One last question, how did you attach the panels to the soffit so that the hardware didn't show?
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post #385 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Thanks for the info on the soffits. One last question, how did you attach the panels to the soffit so that the hardware didn't show?

Air gun, finishing nails. They don't really have "heads" like most nails, so they pass right through the fabric and embed themselves in the plywood. Since it is only 3/4" plywood, there was easily enough leftover room to drive them into the existing soffit frames. Put enough finishing nails and that's enough to keep up the panels.
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post #386 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

We basically put one light directly above each column, and then evenly spaced out the rest to be between each column. We made them closer and sort of follow the arc of the front light-tray section. They provide a lot of light. I will likely have them dimmed all the time. It does leave a "hole" of direct light in the center of the room, so when using that space as a workshop we still used a work light for up close detail, but in final room use, this will not be needed. They do warm up the room when they are all on at full brightness all day, but who would run their HT lights like that? This is basically our stress-test.

Where did you end up getting the 3" recessed lights? make/model? really like the way the sofit came together! Also, is that 703 in your superchunks? Did you find that locally (I'm in the same area)?
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post #387 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

Where did you end up getting the 3" recessed lights? make/model? really like the way the sofit came together! Also, is that 703 in your superchunks? Did you find that locally (I'm in the same area)?

He posted info on the lights in post #205 (here). They are from Lowes. I was looking for the info yesterday. I really like these lights.

Nick
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post #388 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

Where did you end up getting the 3" recessed lights? make/model? really like the way the sofit came together! Also, is that 703 in your superchunks? Did you find that locally (I'm in the same area)?

The little recessed lights you can get from Lowes. They are $10 each. They had a lot in white and brushed nickel, but we spray painted them black. Great price, and they are very small. Getting wires into that tiny metal box on top was not easy or fun though.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_16059-47842-...ght&facetInfo=

They work great in our particular case because we have a non insulated, open-topped area where they could be put into, so the heat can dissipate. I wouldn't enclose them in an insulated area, or if you have them in a sealed cavity, have them on for a long period of time. I don't really have problems in my space, but I think if it was enclosed and we had them on for 12 hours straight like we do when we're working, it could get hot. I would have gone with standard 4" cans if I had room, but these fit and mounted in our very small space.

As for the corner traps, yes it is 703. I had BPape ship it to me, though you can get it locally is you look. I called a couple of places like Capital building supply, but they didn't have a lot in stock, but I didn't spend a lot of time looking either.

Also, I spoke with Ruben/SMX today and finalized the order on my SMX screen!
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post #389 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 01:36 PM
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I need to fill in a few details about the build I've got 10 minutes for this quick segment.

Earlier we had a picture of the light controls in the wall but never showed the backside which ended up with some putty pads



Other than those two boxes and the projector outlet there are NO OTHER ELECTRICAL BOX HOLES IN THE ENTIRE THEATER, more on this later.

We had that roughed in hole for the equipment rack. I made a plywood box just big enough to fit the rack and mounted in the rough in much like hanging a door, Used shims and checked for level and square. Just used scraps we had. You may notice that it extends 2 inches into the theater. This is by design as we will be installing 2 inch panels held 2 inches off the wall.



Then built a support for the back of the rack in the equipment room made sure it was level with the hole.



The rack is hanging over the back but it won't when pulled forward flush with the fabric panels we are planning

Final shot, caulked the edges.



In case anybody missed this point, the equipment room as designed my Damelon has the same wall construction as the theater, Clips channel, DDW and GG. So no need to worry about that big hole. The rack will also have a door.
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post #390 of 2473 Old 10-03-2011, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Other than those two boxes and the projector outlet there are NO OTHER ELECTRICAL BOX HOLES IN THE ENTIRE THEATER, more on this later.

So how did you deal with code and the absence of electrical outlets? In Loudoun county I was required to install them. I took a similar albeit different approach. Since my columns are very similar in location to his .. my seal was on the inside of the HT (but behind the columns). This could be concealed in fabric walls as well. Only upside is it could be transformed into a normal room if so desired .. which I don't
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