The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 17 - AVS Forum
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post #481 of 2473 Old 10-09-2011, 06:55 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.



This build is so phenomenally well documented and full of incrediblly creative approaches that I'd be remiss if I didn't at the very least say "thank you" for the effort involved with the documentation alone. And to do it with a sense of humor? Anybody would enjoy reading this! The whole thing from top to bottom is jaw dropping and you all should be proud.

I'm quite attracted to this method of doing the light tray and I *THINK* I understand the geometry behind the approach. The one thing I can't get my head around (probably because I haven't seen a pic of it) is how the heck you install the rope light? Do you bore out holes in each support piece? Is the face a couple inches taller than the support or is there something else I'm just not getting?

I'd love to see a pic of this from the top (so I can see behind the face) with the light rope in there. It'd really close the circle for me.

Thanks!
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post #482 of 2473 Old 10-09-2011, 07:27 PM
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I think Damelon is busy tonight. The rope light is strung just above the braces attached to the face of the soffit at the back of the light tray. If you stand on your tippy toes on the stage you can see it peaking out on the back of the room.

Maybe we can get a camera up there in the future.
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post #483 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Thanks Dman, It was from a custom millwork shop, (Name deleted because I'm not happy with them.)

The projector outlet is connected to a power inlet in the equipment room where it will be powered via a power conditioner/protector.
The rope light is in the same space but does not touch the recessed fixtures, which by the way gets warm but not hot in the vicinity of the rope light.

I thought I had seen that u guys just cut a regular electrical box into the osb back a while ago? I thought it was just going back to the electrical box? if not are u guys using something like this from furman:

http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...2&id=MIW-SURGE

thanks,
jim
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post #484 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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No we are not using an outlet surge protector. We are using an inlet/outlet. Basically this is an in-wall wired extension cord. It runs into the equipment room. This allows us to plug directly into the rack-mounted surge protection / power conditioner unit from the ceiling mounted location.

As for the rope-light. Yes, it is mounted directly flush against both the soffit wall and along the top of the little backer pieces of wood in that picture that you quoted. I took a picture with my phone this morning, though it is a little blurry. The face is slightly taller than the little backer pieces, but not by much. I think less than in inch difference. But because it sticks out a bit with the 3 layers of trim, and is slightly higher, you would have to be standing very high to be able to see in a direct straight line to see the rope light. Like BIG mentioned, the only place in the room where you can actually see a bit of the rope light is from the front stage looking back. This is because it has the best direct line of sight.

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post #485 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMan View Post

Did you wire the projectors electrical outlet to the home panel or to the rack for surge protection, etc.? Also how did you determine the projectors mounting location without knowing which projector will be used? Or did you allow for some tolerance? Are you planning a hush box for the projector?

Also, with regards to the lighting. Does the rope lighting occupy the same space as the halogen lights? (ie, are they spaced far enough apart)
Just an absolutely stunning HT room!

See above for the rope light and surge protection outlet info. Yes, the rope light occupies the same space as the halogens. But they don't touch. The rope light runs along the interior soffit face flush so it has enough space to steer clear of the halogens.

As for the projector mounting location. We do have some tolerance. If you look earlier, there is a large piece of plywood which replaces an entire piece of the 1st layer of drywall on the ceiling. This will allow us some leeway on mounting locations. Unfortunately, the ceiling holes where the conduit and plug are cannot be moved. So if we move the projector back far enough then there might be some unslightly cabling up there... but we're gonna figure that all out when it's time to do so.
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post #486 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Damelon and I had a conversation about how to trim out the door on the outside of the theater. I suggested that instead of just slapping up the basic builders case molding used in the rest of the house we do something a little special. The large rec room has a half a dozen similar looking doors going off in various directions.

I think we should make it obvious that the theater is "over here"

So what if we made up some case molding just like the face of the soffit, three staggered layers of 1/2 MDF, total of 6 inches wide, then add a keystone. Thickest side on the outside. Paint the door molding and the exterior jam the same red that is used in the theater.

First, I'll say that I really like the concept. It's simple and fits the theater. It even has the trademark BIGmouthinDC keystone.

What I really started to think about though, was how out of place it will look. Even if it was all painted the same color as the trim. That rec room is your typical builder-grade rec room. Drywall, off white paint, white trim, berber carpet. (which will eventually be replaced with a sandstone type of tile) That door would stick out so much. I know that's half of the point, but it would be a little too much. The pool table is black stained wood with red felt, so it would tie into that a little, but I just don't know. It's sort of like the wizard of oz going from black and white to color. I'll run it by the wife and get her opinion, but I think I may just keep the theater IN the theater. Half of the fun of a plain door is the big reveal when you open it.
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post #487 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 07:13 AM
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You could paint it the same color as all the other doors, just the molding would be the hint of the "wonders" within.

I guess that also rules out my other option:

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post #488 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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LOL... I'd be embarrassed to have that in my house. I guess I'm too spartan
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post #489 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

LOL... I'd be embarrassed to have that in my house. I guess I'm too spartan

Better be careful, BIG. Damelon is going to go all, "THIS IS SPARTA.....n" on you if you keep it up!

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #490 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 08:03 AM
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I've already left some of my blood in the space, what is a little more?
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post #491 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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The wife says (About the doorway) : "I think it would look cool in red - at least people would know which door to the movie theater."

It's a conspiracy!
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post #492 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 09:03 AM
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She just has good taste. Picked you didn't she?

Anyway back to theater construction

ONE:





Mega bunch to go.
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post #493 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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So those are the 49 1/2" high by 27 7/8" or 3/4" wide or whatever panels right?
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post #494 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 09:26 AM
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Keep on rollin! Looking good.

I like the custom door way: shows off the goods

My "Resale Home Theater" build --- Last Update 10/10/11
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post #495 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 09:28 AM
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49.5 x 27.875

The bevel face is 7/8 which is half way between the two samples we looked at.
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post #496 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

49.5 x 27.875

The bevel face is 7/8 which is half way between the two samples we looked at.

Ok cool. I will make sure to get the rest of the measurements to you this week, at least for the red panels.

Talked with the delivery people, the chairs will get delivered tomorrow.
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post #497 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Because I know how much you like details, here is the information I just sent to BIG about all of the large Red panels, which we are installing first:

All Red Panels are 49 1/2" high, Centered on the vertical middle of the Black Fabric section of the Columns (Which is 46" high) So there will be a 1 3/4" overlap top and bottom.

Between front Columns and Screenwall
2 Red Panels, 18" wide

Between Front Two (Right) Columns, Far Wall from Door
83 7/8" total width, divided into 3 Panels.
We decided 27 7/8" per panel.

Between Rear Side Right Column and Rear Corner
84 3/4" to back wall.
Just make 3 Panels 27 7/8" each. The rear panel will be hidden just
over an inch from the rear wall panel.
Baseboard will have to be mitred with Right Rear Corner. Remember the
side wall is mounted on the wall. The rear baseboard is mounted 2"
out. So mitre in person.

Right Rear Corner, Between Side Wall and Rear Right Column
38 1/4" between column and Side Wall. Make baseboard the entire
length so we can mitre it to join the side one.
Red Panel in this section will need to be custom due to fitting it around the rack space.
We should cut and measure in person.

Rear Center
68 7/8" total length
3 Panels. What do you think, 22 7/8" each?

Left Rear Corner
38 1/2" to Left Side wall Do not cut baseboard short due to mitring
with Left Side Rear Area
1 Red Panel I think. Remember it would be 1" shorter due to side
panel, and it will not have a camfer on one side.

Left Side Rear Area
85" to rear wall
Make 3 Panels 27 7/8" long.
Baseboard will need to be cut to mitred length with Left rear corner area.

Middle Door Section
** Note, I don't know about how we should cut baseboard and camfers
here. There is a small gap between the door itself and the casing,
so we can just mount the panels to the edge of the gap here and
probably not worry about it rubbing, and on the hinge side, I think we
are completely safe due to the wide throw hinge. The baseboards are
another story. The entire width is about 83 3/4". We might be
able to Cut the baseboard at an angle at the door opening side so it
closes completely flush with the other piece of baseboard, but on the
hinge side we might need to leave a small gap.
Depends on how the door actually opens with panels in place.

From rear column side to the inside of the door casing is exactly 28"
Door itself is 27 7/8"
From Front side column to inside of door casing is 27 3/4"

Between front left column and screenwall, another 18" red panel.

There will be custom floor to ceiling black panels in front of the two
front red panels to make sure the screenwall panels are removable. I
think once our blocking is in, we can make it like a 2x4 block (small
piece, painted black) mounted to the wall. The side black panel will
just go all the way to the block, and then the screenwall side black
panels will be able to be mounted an inch out from the wall on the
same block. There will be no camfering on this corner, so it will be
flush, allowing the screenwall panels to be removed without removing
the side panels.

--------------

Just so the rest of you know, someone brought up a question, "Why didn't I paint all of my walls black". Well other than I didn't need to, writing notes and drawing lines on them becomes a big pain if you do that. It turns out though, that we all make mistakes in planning and noticed that the fabric section of the columns is recessed a little from the column itself. Also, some columns aren't exactly flush with the wall. Since the Red panels are vertically longer than the fabric area by 3 1/2", they can only rest flush against the side of the column. So there is a small space between the red panel and the fabric, where the wall could be visible. So I am taping the sides of the columns up and painting small black vertical lines against them a few inches wide to resolve this issue.
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post #498 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 05:06 PM
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I think the rear wall base board will have to be mounted 3 inches out from the wall not 2.

Door bottom seals arrived today.

on that order list of panels, would you like fries with that?
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post #499 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think the rear wall base board will have to be mounted 3 inches out from the wall not 2.

Door bottom seals arrived today.

on that order list of panels, would you like fries with that?

1) Checks and Balances, you are correct, sir.
2) YAY
3) Please. And not crappy wendy's super-salt fries or burger kings only batter no potato fries. GOOD fries. Five Guys Fries, Arbys Curly Fries, even McD's fries. And a milkshake from fudruckers.
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post #500 of 2473 Old 10-10-2011, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

We might be
able to Cut the baseboard at an angle at the door opening side so it
closes completely flush with the other piece of baseboard, but on the
hinge side we might need to leave a small gap.
Depends on how the door actually opens with panels in place.

We could cut the base board at a mitered angle but what that means is that the horn will stick out past the edge of the door. This presents a hazard to someones toes and the horn itself. I propose a simple straight butt joint or shallow miter.
On the hinge side the base board sticks out less from the wall than the fabric panel, 3/4 versus 1 inch, so we can use a simple butt joint and it should swing open just fine.
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post #501 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:01 AM
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HOW I SPENT THE MORNING

I figure we will need about 200 strips of 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch plywood to make D's fabric frames.
At 30 a sheet that means 7 sheets ripped. First I had Lowe's rip them in half for convenience.

Then on with it



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post #502 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:11 AM
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Well done sir.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #503 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Eep!

That is going to be a lot of panels! Is that just the 1/2 pieces for the red panels or is it ALL of the 1/2" strips?
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post #504 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:31 AM
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I hope all, how about we make the reds 49.45 tall instead of 49.5. That way I can just cut the 96ers in half. The blade is about an 1/8 inch.
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post #505 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:34 AM
 
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Quote:
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Thank you for taking this picture, damelon. Really "closes the loop" for me on your soffit so now I'm going to blatantly steal the whole idea.
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post #506 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:38 AM
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I think it is called reverse engineering, that is exactly what we did.
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post #507 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


Dedication right there.

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post #508 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 11:04 AM
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Dedication right there.

I think that's why they call this the *Dedicated* Theater Design & Contruction Forum.
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post #509 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Pinky View Post

Thank you for taking this picture, damelon. Really "closes the loop" for me on your soffit so now I'm going to blatantly steal the whole idea.

By the way, in that photo, if you look at the closest 3/4 "C" clip, that is a piece of wood blocking below it. At the 2nd clip you see the top of one of those 3" recessed lights. If you added more clips or use the clear rope light channeling you can make the rope light straighter and produce a more uniform light. I think because it sags a little is how the lighting effect varies so much on the ceiling.
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post #510 of 2473 Old 10-11-2011, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I hope all, how about we make the reds 49.45 tall instead of 49.5. That way I can just cut the 96ers in half. The blade is about an 1/8 inch.

Well that space will be made up for when fabric is wrapped around the panels, so we're good there!

By the way, went to that Sulley Carpet place today. A lot of crappy selections there! Where was the place on rte 28 that you talked about that was just up the road from me... the one where you had that red diamond pattern carpet (The one that has the big 2" or so diamonds). I want to go see that pattern in black.
(This One)


Also, I received the 3 carpet samples from the Shaw Contracting Group of those cool patterned gray/black carpets we showed. They are WAY too busy. Looks good in their photos, but not what I'd want in the theater.
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