The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #511 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 04:43 PM
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I like the contrast of black/dark gray, but I also agree that those gray diamonds are too much. There must be a dark carpet with a subtle pattern somewhere.

I don't know why, but with the plain red carpet, it seems to lose something. You need to add the racing stripe to your solid colored race car to set it apart from others .
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post #512 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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So far of all the reds, the plain one is the best. Red clashes with the screenwall and the black chairs. It would work, but I do agree, I'd rather not go plain, but at least I know a color matches out there. The red diamond pattern does match, but over a whole room that pattern would draw all of the attention. A cool carpet can make a plain room look good. A cool room should have a carpet that, in my opinion, doesn't make the rest of the room look bad!

I'm a big hater of any carpet you will see if you google "home theater carpet". Those patterns are just rediculous... like a child's pajamas.

Plain black won't work with black leather chairs, black screenwall.... it will be a washout.

There is another I will show big this weekend. I think it is a discontinued Shaw, because I can find no reference to it anywhere on their site. At this local store though, it is a majority black plush carpet... and not a graphite black or almost black... it's BLACK, and it has small dark gray loop pattern squares inside of it. So at least it is not solid black, but it also is predominantly black.

The black diamond pattern above is not really that black. The dark one is close, but it is still more of a slate. The gray though is what stands out, not the black, and it just appears too light. Then again it is just a small sample. I found a pic of someone who has a very close one and it looks a lot better, when the lighting isn't so bright.


Now look at the same room with NORMAL lighting.
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post #513 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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This one is not so bad. It doesn't stick out (Notice the all black stage)



Same carpet with FLASH

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post #514 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 05:34 PM
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post #515 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Chairs? Any update?

They are here. I just removed them from the boxes but have not yet unwrapped them to make sure they sent me all the right stuff. Taking a break!
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post #516 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 06:10 PM
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Any update (with pics) on the screen wall construction over the weekend?
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post #517 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 06:20 PM
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I basically recycled the design from Jesto's theater, all that is place now is the "Goal Post" support structure.

You can read through this thread for the design details and a look ahead at how the panels will be made:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20383662


Here is a close up of the right side of the screen wall and cross bar, the left looks the same.

All we need to do is add the screen and fabric panels. Promise to show that in detail.



there is some documentation of the evolution of the minimalist design here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...imalist+screen
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post #518 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 06:53 PM
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Damelon,

This one has some black in it :

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post #519 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 07:03 PM
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How about something like this:



Photos of the carpet installed in my build thread.

Follow my build here: Harvest Ridge Theater
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post #520 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 07:54 PM
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Another vote for black / grey ... this is the one I'm going with ... probably a completely useless post however, as I guess it probably isn't available over there !

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post #521 of 3019 Old 10-11-2011, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I'm a big hater of any carpet you will see if you google "home theater carpet". Those patterns are just rediculous... like a child's pajamas.

I'm with you there, not my cup of tea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

The black diamond pattern above is not really that black. The dark one is close, but it is still more of a slate. The gray though is what stands out, not the black, and it just appears too light. Then again it is just a small sample. I found a pic of someone who has a very close one and it looks a lot better, when the lighting isn't so bright.

I have that same carpet but in brown not black, and it basically disappears when the lights are off and the movie is off, in case that might be your concern.
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post #522 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

How about something like this:



Photos of the carpet installed in my build thread.

I really like this. Classy. It may break up the geometric lines... or may detract from the look you are going for. Who knows!
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post #523 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 06:05 AM
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Where else is there gold/yellow in the theater? If there was some gold trim work maybe.
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post #524 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I have that same carpet but in brown not black, and it basically disappears when the lights are off and the movie is off, in case that might be your concern.

I do like the brown one, it is more subtle than the black is. The red is even more subtle than the black is. But red is a more striking color than brown. But I don't have a brown theater... though for a while I was going to go Tan/Black/Brown

carboranadum: Even without any gold/yellow in the theater, this isn't my style at all. My tastes are pretty simple and geometric. As an engineer, I get OCD about things being evenly spaced, or parallel/perpendicular. My colors are usually always neutral. My normal color palate I prefer tends to fit into BIG's theater. I like Blue, Gray, Silver. My car is a graphite color but the interior is black with red leather seats and redwood inlays. (Almost identical to the theater, which I pointed out to BIG). Yet in all of these cases, they are solid colors. Patterns in general just don't fit well for me. A few of my shirts might have stripes but most things I like are solid colors. I like contemporary styled things over classic/antique. I would say that carpet (Red/Gold) is an antique styled pattern I would see on a formal dining room/living room area rug and thus it is not my style. All of my paintings are geometric abstract. I'd expect to see that particular carpet in the Chinese Theater in Hollywood.
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post #525 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post


A few of my shirts might have stripes but most things I like are solid colors. .

The real question is do you wear striped or patterned underwear?
That will tell us more then the kind of shirts you wear!

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post #526 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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The real question is do you wear striped or patterned underwear?
That will tell us more then the kind of shirts you wear!

All of the above. I never cared. Whatever came in whatever packs I got.
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post #527 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I do like the brown one, it is more subtle than the black is. The red is even more subtle than the black is. But red is a more striking color than brown. But I don't have a brown theater... though for a while I was going to go Tan/Black/Brown

carboranadum: Even without any gold/yellow in the theater, this isn't my style at all. My tastes are pretty simple and geometric. As an engineer, I get OCD about things being evenly spaced, or parallel/perpendicular. My colors are usually always neutral. My normal color palate I prefer tends to fit into BIG's theater. I like Blue, Gray, Silver. My car is a graphite color but the interior is black with red leather seats and redwood inlays. (Almost identical to the theater, which I pointed out to BIG). Yet in all of these cases, they are solid colors. Patterns in general just don't fit well for me. A few of my shirts might have stripes but most things I like are solid colors. I like contemporary styled things over classic/antique. I would say that carpet (Red/Gold) is an antique styled pattern I would see on a formal dining room/living room area rug and thus it is not my style. All of my paintings are geometric abstract. I'd expect to see that particular carpet in the Chinese Theater in Hollywood.

Oh well.

That answers my question.
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post #528 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh well.

That answers my question.

Glad I could give you too much information as always, hehe.
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post #529 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted this in the Sony thread, but I think my throw might come into play when selecting my projector, primarily because I will be using the ZOOM method to change between scope and 16:9.

I have a 130" -WIDE- (not diag) scope screen.

I was looking at the current gen projectors that have lens memory. Such as the JVC-RS45, Panasonic PT-AE7000U, and Sony VW95ES. The Epson 5010 Has great specs but no lens memory. I might ignore that if the zoom is powered.

I'm trying to determine if the sony will work in my theater due to it's lower zoom. I read the throw is 1.39 - 2.19 or so, and the zoom is 1.6x. I can do the math for simple throw without zoom... that is straightforward, but not sure exactly how zoom fits into the equation. If someone could explain it once I could do the rest.

So what is the minimum throw to fill a zoomed in 2.3x:1 image on that 130" wide scope screen.

Sony VPL-VW95ES : Throw 1.39 - 2.19 : Zoom 1.6X
JVC RS45 : Throw 1.4 - 2.8 : Zoom 2.0X
Panny PT-AE7000U : Throw 1.35 - 2.7 : Zoom 2.0X
Epson HC 5010 : Throw 1.32 - 2.15 : Zoom 2.1X (No lens memory)
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post #530 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 08:52 AM
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For calculations assume you are filling a 130 inch wide 16:9 screen and check the zoom/throw. That is the biggest it needs to be and the smallest is 96 inches for watching 16:9
Take the throw distance to the lens and divide by the native image width.

At 15 ft that works out to 1.38 to 1.875.
At 16 that works out to 1.47 to 2.

As long as those numbers fit in the projectors range, you are good. The zoom range is the largest throw ratio divided by the smallest for a particular projector.

Your plywood starts at 16 ft from the front wall minus the screen wall.

The sony has a very small sweet spot for CIH applications.
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post #531 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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For calculations assume you are filling a 130 inch wide 16:9 screen and check the zoom/throw. That is the biggest it needs to be and the smallest is 96 inches for watching 16:9

At 15 ft that works out to 1.38 to 1.875. Take the throw distance to the lens and divide by the native image width.
At 16 that works out to 1.47 to 2.

Your plywood starts at 16 ft from the front wall minus the screen wall.

How does the zoom come into play? Does that mean if they state that the projector states a 1.39 minimum throw, then assuming the dimensions you just made, that the Sony (1.39 min) Would fill that screen at just over 15' at maximum zoom? It's odd to me that the JVC, which has a higher zoom, would also have a higher throw min throw ratio. That's why the zoom was throwing me for a loop.

I took the Panasonic as an example. ProjectorCentral says it has a 1.37 min throw. Ok.
130 / 12 = 10.833333 feet.
At 15 feet, 15 / 10.83333 = 1.3846. Ok that sounds like the min throw you had.

But the calculator says that at 130" wide, 2X room, the throw distance would only need to be 14' 8", which is 1.3538. If they state that the min is 1.37 there, how is that possible? So maybe it's close enough and they have some data a little wrong, or maybe I'm doing it wrong.
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post #532 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 09:19 AM
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just ignore the zoom. it is useful in comparing projectors as to mounting flexibility.

Just divide the distance to the lens in inches by the screen widths you need (130 and 96) if those two numbers are inside the stated throw ratio range it will work. Avoid being right at the very limit of either end, The accuracy of the lens generally diminishes as you zoom to the largest possible image. Another reason is to allow for a margin of error.

By the way I'm on to cutting the bevels next, all the frames are made.
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post #533 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

just ignore the zoom. it is useful in comparing projectors as to mounting flexibility.

Just divide the distance to the lens in inches by the screen widths you need (130 and 96) if those two numbers are inside the stated throw ratio range it will work. Avoid being right at the very limit of either end, The accuracy of the lens generally diminishes as you zoom to the largest possible image. Another reason is to allow for a margin of error.

By the way I'm on to cutting the bevels next, all the frames are made.

So I can just assume that their throw ratios are already taking the zoom into effect for min throw, and since I am zoomed in for the SCOPE, i can assume the zoom out will work automatically.
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post #534 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 10:09 AM
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I wouldn't assume anything. you are zoomed out for scope.

back to Sony and your size screens 130 (2.39:1) and 96 (16:9)


to hit 130 your lens can be between 180 and 288 inches from the screen
to hit 96 your lens can be between 133 and 210 from the screen

So the overlap of those two is 180 to 210

for safety margin the lens should be between 185 to 205 inches from the screen

15.4 to 17 ft from the screen.
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post #535 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks. Looks like my projector choices just got more interesting then!
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post #536 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

just ignore the zoom. it is useful in comparing projectors as to mounting flexibility.

Just divide the distance to the lens in inches by the screen widths you need (130 and 96) if those two numbers are inside the stated throw ratio range it will work. Avoid being right at the very limit of either end, The accuracy of the lens generally diminishes as you zoom to the largest possible image. Another reason is to allow for a margin of error.

By the way I'm on to cutting the bevels next, all the frames are made.

So big you have to also look at the scope width? I thought you just looked at the 16:9?

I am not saying you are wrong I just never knew that?

thanks,
jim
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post #537 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 12:27 PM
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If you are using the zoom method for CIH you need to be sure you can make it both big enough and small enough. If you are using an add-on lens then getting the 16:9 image perfect is the primary task, the lens will do the stretching to get the extra width. Also different lenses have a certain throw range requirement to minimize the pin cushion effect, usually longer is better.
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post #538 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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So big you have to also look at the scope width? I thought you just looked at the 16:9?

I am not saying you are wrong I just never knew that?

thanks,
jim

In a CIH setup, the "Scope Width" is a zoomed 16:9 image. So you treat the "Scope Width" as it was a 16:9 image as the same width. He's using the term "Scope Width" so I would understand that the scope width is the larger image that I need to project, thus the one we need to calculate min throw for.

The 16:9 image is the smaller image, with the same height as the 2.39:1 scope image. But the width of the 2.39:1 image is much greater. You are basically just projecting the black bars in a 16:9 image off of the screen, so it really still is a 16:9 image.
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post #539 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 12:38 PM
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OK, took all the assembled frames and put on the beveled edge with a table saw.

This picture will make a lot of table saw safety gurus cringe, It made my saw cringe.



One order of frames to go, hold the bevel on two.

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post #540 of 3019 Old 10-12-2011, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Great work, yet again! How are you marking them to know what goes where?
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