The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 2436 Old 10-25-2011, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 05 View Post

Keep in mind the Lumen measurements are D65. The VW95 was 770 max and the AE7000 was a little over 500 max (can't remember exact number). Percentage wise that is a huge difference.

Yeah I know. The VW95 is still my planned purchase. Kraine's full review on it should be in 2 days as well. Not that it matters until I get my phone call anyway. My construction "inside" of the theater should be done today, with carpet coming near the end of next week, so looks like the the release timeline along with shipping could match up very well.
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post #722 of 2436 Old 10-25-2011, 02:14 PM
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It's really coming together, looking great!

Is your baseboard and chair rail trim set flush with the panels?

How much space did you leave at the floor for the carpet layer?

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post #723 of 2436 Old 10-25-2011, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

It's really coming together, looking great!

Is your baseboard and chair rail trim set flush with the panels?

How much space did you leave at the floor for the carpet layer?

It's about flush with the end of the beveled edge. The panels are 1" thick and the trim/baseboard is 3/4". The panels have diagonal bevels facing the trim and the trim has rounded edges against the panels.

There is a 1/2" gap for the carpet under the baseboard.
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post #724 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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As promised, yesterday marked the end of "Construction" on my theater. By that I mean I can finally clean up all of the spare wood and scraps I had been saving for things like furing and spacing. BIG and I worked a long day. Things took longer than we estimated as usual, and so we didn't get to put the SMX screen material on the frame yet. But that can be done in the next week or two since I don't even have a projector yet.

First, we finished the custom panels around the rack area


We also made two custom panels for the strange spaces between the front columns and the stage (Not shown).

Then we completed the remaining baseboard around the rest of the room.


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post #725 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally we put up all of the friction-fit screenwall panels and the screen frame.

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post #726 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 05:28 AM
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Do you have more pics of the screen wall install?
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post #727 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 06:30 AM
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Sorry if this was posted, but what size is your rack? did the door come with the rack, or did you add it after? I am going to install my rack in the back of my theater as well and I really like the idea of being able to lock the door.
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post #728 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Do you have more pics of the screen wall install?

I thought about it, but by the time we were putting it up I was so tired I didn't want to go upstairs to get my camera. There are 4 panels. The ones above and below the screen are the exact width of the screen frame, and then vertically, they fill the space top to bottom. On the bottom frame, there is still a 1/2" gap for a carpet underneath. The two side panels go floor to ceiling and width wise are from the black side wall panels to the side of the screen frame and other two panels. They are made with the same material as the screen wall uprights you saw earlier, in a simple frame shape with some cross pieces for support. We built/wrapped them just like any of the wall panels, except that there are no beveled edges, different material for the frame, and they do not contain any soundproofing materials.
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post #729 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Sorry if this was posted, but what size is your rack? did the door come with the rack, or did you add it after? I am going to install my rack in the back of my theater as well and I really like the idea of being able to lock the door.

The rack is a middle atlantic EGR-2428 Rack. (28 rack slots high, 24" wide on the outside). It did not come with either door. I purchased it from B&H Photo/Video as they had the best price I could find at the time as well as having it in stock. The plexi door I found on ebay for under $100, and the back side has a cable entry door which is made of steel and also lockable EGRRDC24. I also purchased this at B&H.



I had considered the ERK-2725-CONFIG rack, since it comes with everything out of the box. But it would be dimensionally a lot smaller than the hole I had originally made, and I wanted a door. The ERK config rack came with your typical home theater black blank front panels for an open design.
http://customavrack.com/Products/130...25-config.aspx

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post #730 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Sometime soon, I will take the time to collect all of the data I can find on my purchases and post them here. I am going to post all of the places I purchased things, what I purchased there, how much they cost. This will include not just things like equipment, cables, switches, but also generic materials like paint and lumber and insulation. I will also include a summary of my hired labor costs to include BIG and the polish guys that helped early on. I would like you all to get an accurate representation of the total cost of this build. You will see right away where the big ticket items are, and how much things like hired assistance might cost.
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post #731 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 07:23 AM
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The cost break down will be very helpful. I for one am in the budgeting stage trying to figure out how much each stage of the process will cost. Having some reference numbers will be nice. Thanks for your help to all those hoping to have a room as stunning as yours.
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post #732 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 07:26 AM
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Was this some separate hardwood stock you used for trim or did you cut more strips of the frame plywood and paint it?


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post #733 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:22 AM
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Damelon,
Excellent room and very well documented. I've learned more from this thread than anywhere else.
Glad to see you went with a dual sub configuration. I've seen people spend alot of time and money on beautiful rooms and only buy 1 sub. That second sub, if implemented properly, really brings the entire system together in my opinion. I'm assuming those are the EP-500's. Have you had a chance to listen to them yet, and if so, are they filling that big room with plenty of bass? If you have time, would you mind sharing your thoughts on the Axioms?
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post #734 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Was this some separate hardwood stock you used for trim or did you cut more strips of the frame plywood and paint it?


Those strips started life as a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF. We cut 4 inch strips for the baseboard and 2 inch for the wall trim molding. Then I rounded over both edges on the 2 inch and one on the baseboard. Used a router table.
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post #735 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:38 AM
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Do you think there will be any issues with the light color of the L/R speaker cabs and bass traps showing through? Or are you going to cover the bass traps with GOM?
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post #736 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you think there will be any issues with the light color of the L/R speaker cabs and bass traps showing through? Or are you going to cover the bass traps with GOM?

We aren't sure on this yet. If I have to do it, I will. There is already black gom just sitting on the tops of my L/R speakers and Subs. It's hard to know what the light see-through will be right now since there is no projector. Once it is installed, if I can see anything through the fabric/screen during a movie, then I will do something about it.
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post #737 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

Damelon,
Excellent room and very well documented. I've learned more from this thread than anywhere else.
Glad to see you went with a dual sub configuration. I've seen people spend alot of time and money on beautiful rooms and only buy 1 sub. That second sub, if implemented properly, really brings the entire system together in my opinion. I'm assuming those are the EP-500's. Have you had a chance to listen to them yet, and if so, are they filling that big room with plenty of bass? If you have time, would you mind sharing your thoughts on the Axioms?

Yes I have the EP-500s. I previously had this entire speaker set in my last theater. The speakers themselves sound great. I had an issue with the old center channel, where it was placed too low and/or it wasn't putting out clear enough dialogue for me. Though, I have a new floorstanding speaker which replaces it with this theater. I also had to chain my two subs together (XLR-OUT on sub 1 to XLR-IN on sub 2) with my old Integra 9.8, but I didn't ever work with audessy on it. The subs were so loud that I couldnt turn the volume up more than just a tick above the lowest setting, but I'm assuming that's because I had no clue how to configure them with my Integra. At the time I never researched it.

This brings up one of the big issues I need to figure out in the next week before the carpet comes. So for speakers, Audessy is a pretty easy process. Set up the mic, and let the pre-amp do it's thing. Move the mic, repeat. But on the subs, there are several settings on the back, and I don't know what I should set them to prior to the Audessy configuration.


I just want to make sure I can set the sub at the right levels before I do the Audessy config and let Audessy set the values to their proper cutoffs.

What level should the Audio be at? (Help here)
What crossover setting should it be at? (I've read 150/bypass)
Phase (I'm assuming 0 for both)
Trim (I believe it is Remote, Flat, Half, Full, and I assume -flat- is the setting)
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post #738 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 08:55 AM
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Yesterday was indeed a very long day we got rolling at 8 am and I didn't get out the door after packing up all the tools until about 11 pm. The day was interrupted by pizza for lunch and a great egg batter pork chop with green beans and gnocchi cooked by Mrs D.

As for the screen wall construction, I think we have covered the uprights and crossbar earlier in the thread and there is more on my thread on the Minimalist approach to screen walls.

So yesterday we assembled the SMX screen and hung it on the zbar clips which were attached to the crossbar.



If you look closely you can see that the SMX screen frame edge hits the middle of the screen wall framing. That leaves and edge for the surrounding panels to rest on.

The panels are made from the 5/4 x 3 1/2 inch finger jointed pine boards sold at HD. I ripped them in half for these panels and screwed them together with 3 1/2 inch deck screws. They are much pricier than stud lumber, but they are straight, will stay straight and are pretty stiff, what you want for panels.

here is the lumber I used





It takes four panels



We wrapped them with black GOM and friction fit into position. The walls, ceiling and screen frame are what hold the panels in place.
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post #739 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Those strips started life as a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF. We cut 4 inch strips for the baseboard and 2 inch for the wall trim molding. Then I rounded over both edges on the 2 inch and one on the baseboard. Used a router table.

Big, did you use MDF for trim and base do to cost or just because it worked. Compared to using regular trim?

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post #740 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 09:57 AM
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Big, did you use MDF for trim and base do to cost or just because it worked. Compared to using regular trim?

If I could have found a 2 inch wide piece of trim rounded on both edges, I would have bought it, The Light tray, Columns and Trim details were all original custom design ideas that Damelon and I came up with for his theater. If off the shelf components were readily available that had the same look we would have used them.
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post #741 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post


This brings up one of the big issues I need to figure out in the next week before the carpet comes. So for speakers, Audessy is a pretty easy process. Set up the mic, and let the pre-amp do it's thing. Move the mic, repeat. But on the subs, there are several settings on the back, and I don't know what I should set them to prior to the Audessy configuration.

I just want to make sure I can set the sub at the right levels before I do the Audessy config and let Audessy set the values to their proper cutoffs.

What level should the Audio be at? (Help here)
What crossover setting should it be at? (I've read 150/bypass)
Phase (I'm assuming 0 for both)
Trim (I believe it is Remote, Flat, Half, Full, and I assume -flat- is the setting)

Audyssey will set the sub level (volume), in addition to setting the crossover, so a precise setting of the sub's own volume control is not really necessary. Somewhere toward the middle of the available settings would probably be an adequate setting. If you want to do something more precise, I think you would have to set up all of the speakers and match levels using test tones and a SPL meter.

The sub's crossover setting should be set to "bypass" if it has that option. If there is no "bypass" option, then set it as high as it goes. (This assumes the receiver or processor is going to handle crossover duties, which is much preferred.)

I'm not sure about setting the phase control. With my SVS sub in its present location in my room, I thought the 0 setting sounded better, so I left it there. I think this depends a lot on the room and the sub's placement in the room.

I don't know what the "trim" control does. I would probably set it to flat.

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post #742 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Audyssey will set the sub level (volume), in addition to setting the crossover, so a precise setting of the sub's own volume control is not really necessary. Somewhere toward the middle of the available settings would probably be an adequate setting. If you want to do something more precise, I think you would have to set up all of the speakers and match levels using test tones and a SPL meter.

The sub's crossover setting should be set to "bypass" if it has that option. If there is no "bypass" option, then set it as high as it goes. (This assumes the receiver or processor is going to handle crossover duties, which is much preferred.)

I'm not sure about setting the phase control. With my SVS sub in its present location in my room, I thought the 0 setting sounded better, so I left it there. I think this depends a lot on the room and the sub's placement in the room.

I don't know what the "trim" control does. I would probably set it to flat.

Great, thanks for the info!
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post #743 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I know that technically the theater is not done yet, but with the end of my major "construction" finished, I wanted to take a minute to thank BIGmouthinDC for all of his help.

For all of you out there who are working on or planning on working on a project and are considering hiring help, you couldn't ask for a better consultant/contractor. He has excellent ideas and does outstanding work. He is a bit of a perfectionist and will not settle for "good enough". If you want to make sure the job gets done right, you should hire him to help you. Even if you think you can do it yourself, just think about how much easier an extra set of hands is, or how much sooner your build will take, or how a second opinion or set of eyes can make sure work gets done correctly. All of the work you have seen in this thread happened in 3 months, and most of that work happened on long weekends. My build would have never turned out as well as it did without his help and hard work.
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post #744 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 11:13 AM
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I can't believe that trim is just plain old MDF, it looks awesome in the photos. Did you have to do any funky sanding and sealing or just rout it, prime it, paint it?

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post #745 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 11:17 AM
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I can't believe that trim is just plain old MDF, it looks awesome in the photos. Did you have to do any funky sanding and sealing or just rout it, prime it, paint it?

Sanding sealer, Painted with a built in primer. They could have used a sanding but where it starts to get rough is pretty much hidden. The light try and columns (also MDF) got sanding sealer, sanded, primed and painted four times, (changed colors)
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post #746 of 2436 Old 10-26-2011, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Sanding sealer, Painted with a built in primer. They could have used a sanding but where it starts to get rough is pretty much hidden. The light try and columns (also MDF) got sanding sealer, sanded, primed and painted four times, (changed colors)

Yeah the coats of paint is directly related to the color, brand, and type of paint you use. It is a judgement call. There was still some areas of discoloration after 2 coats of the new paint over the old paint but I left it at 2 anyway. It looks fine in the lighting the room has.
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post #747 of 2436 Old 10-27-2011, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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The great basement cleanup of 2011 begins today. Got a call about carpet delivery. Expected date is Tuesday, Nov 8. Hopefully, if all goes well, I will have the projector installed by then, the chairs in, and the screen in. But who knows. Either that day, or sometime that week, should be my total completion date.
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post #748 of 2436 Old 10-27-2011, 07:00 AM
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If you can get all the chairs in after the carpet on the eighth and the projector is already up that means 105 days from demo to your first Movie!
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post #749 of 2436 Old 10-27-2011, 09:35 AM
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Great build. Gorgeous! I really like your choice of chairs. Where are you getting them? Are you planning to get the buttkickers also? I'm in Annapolis and would like to sit on them before purchasing! Also, maybe I missed this in the thread earlier, but what type of screen are you using in order to put your speakers behind it? Will it affect the picture? I have been thinking about moving my screen wall forward, but worried about the effect on sound if the speakers are behind it.
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post #750 of 2436 Old 10-27-2011, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Great build. Gorgeous! I really like your choice of chairs. Where are you getting them? Are you planning to get the buttkickers also? I'm in Annapolis and would like to sit on them before purchasing! Also, maybe I missed this in the thread earlier, but what type of screen are you using in order to put your speakers behind it? Will it affect the picture? I have been thinking about moving my screen wall forward, but worried about the effect on sound if the speakers are behind it.

I got my chairs from theaterseatstore.com, but I would buy them from Roman (sales@rtheaters.com here on the forums, but at rtheaters.com) They are Berkline Reno's but are also known as Lane #103. I've sat on them in my garage so far and they are quite comfy.

The screen is an AT (Acoustically Transparent) screen from SMX Cinema Solutions. (Their Cineweave HD material). The whole purpose of this material is for sound to pass through without problems.
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