The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 39 - AVS Forum
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post #1141 of 2466 Old 02-13-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post



ceiling molding is just nails, nothing has come loose after 6+ years.

crazy, I never would have thought
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post #1142 of 2466 Old 02-13-2012, 07:50 AM
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I've used long finishing nails (in my air nailer) to hold somewhat lightweight items to drywall before and never had issues. I always fired them in at an angle so that it wasn't as easy for something to work loose over time by simply starting the slide straight down or out.

Something like what is in the above picture, I would have used a couple on each side of the "frames" and either nailed them all inward towards the center, or outward away from the center. That way the nails on one side are prevent the nails on the opposite side from moving.
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post #1143 of 2466 Old 02-13-2012, 07:59 AM
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Each frame was twelve pieces of molding, secured one at a time.
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post #1144 of 2466 Old 02-13-2012, 08:04 AM
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such an old school picture, you would think a guy like BIG would have an up to date picture of his theater. I mean come on.
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post #1145 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

HOW I SPENT THE MORNING

I figure we will need about 200 strips of 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch plywood to make D's fabric frames.
At 30 a sheet that means 7 sheets ripped. First I had Lowe's rip them in half for convenience.

Then on with it




This here is brilliant. As I perused the aisles at Lowes last night, I was not finding the 1/2" long pieces I would use for a frame. The only ones I found were the little 2 footers and everything else was like 1" thick.

I guess now I know, that what I really need is 1/2" thick plywood and then cut that down to 1-1/2" wide pieces...

then, cut to the appropriate lengths and then what, how do you secure the 4 pieces together, in order to get the 2" thick frame, just wood glue, stack and a few finish nails?

Lastly, what is the best method for securing the 4 frame members? Do you cut them at an angle at the ends to connect or do you secure them on the square(?) ?
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post #1146 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

This here is brilliant. As I perused the aisles at Lowes last night, I was not finding the 1/2" long pieces I would use for a frame. The only ones I found were the little 2 footers and everything else was like 1" thick.

I guess now I know, that what I really need is 1/2" thick plywood and then cut that down to 1-1/2" wide pieces...

then, cut to the appropriate lengths and then what, how do you secure the 4 pieces together, in order to get the 2" thick frame, just wood glue, stack and a few finish nails?

Lastly, what is the best method for securing the 4 frame members? Do you cut them at an angle at the ends to connect or do you secure them on the square(?) ?

To be honest I don't remember if we used staples or not on the junctions or not, but it IS a lot of glue.

Don't use angles! You want to do it square, and on top of that, alternate the lengths so they overlap.

Say your total frame is 4' by 2'. All of your strips are 1 1/2" wide and 1/2" thick.

First lay down 2 strips which are 4' long. Then two that are 1' 9" long between them, making a square.

Cover them all with glue.

Then your next layer would have 2 pieces which are 3' 9" long, and 2 pieces which are 2' long.

Press them together.

Then there are 8 different places where pieces join (per layer) in your whole frame, but all 8 of them are in different places than the other layer.

Once you have them together and the glue has dried you can run them through a router to put angles on them.
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post #1147 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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A lot of people say making full wood frames are a waste of time these days since you can just buy those plastic tracks/channel which the fabric just gets wedged into, and those are much easier. That may be true, but we went with the wood frames anyway. The pictures I had seen of the plastic fabric track just didn't convince me they would work the way I wanted, even though they use them commercially.
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post #1148 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

A lot of people say making full wood frames are a waste of time these days since you can just buy those plastic tracks/channel which the fabric just gets wedged into, and those are much easier. That may be true, but we went with the wood frames anyway. The pictures I had seen of the plastic fabric track just didn't convince me they would work the way I wanted, even though they use them commercially.

And when you factor in the pricing on the tracks, building wood frames becomes a much more attractive option...

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #1149 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 01:19 PM
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And when you factor in the pricing on the tracks, building wood frames becomes a much more attractive option...

even the economy panels at fabricmate are 70 bucks. Sure manufacturing my ow panels will take way longer, but it I am sure it is also was more fun and in the end more sturdy

When gluing the layers, did you guys do any clamping?

Do you wait for them to dry between layers?

I assume the key if I do fire a finish nail through the layers is to put it in a spot I wont hit with the saw...
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post #1150 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

She just has good taste. Picked you didn't she?

Anyway back to theater construction

ONE:





Mega bunch to go.

Are these panels just 1" thick? I believe that is all you used on the side walls right?
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post #1151 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

Lastly, what is the best method for securing the 4 frame members? Do you cut them at an angle at the ends to connect or do you secure them on the square ?















Cut all you pieces 1 1/2 inches short of your desired finished panel dimensions then just overlap. I used 7/8 inch long 1/4 inch crown staples. The stapler in the picture went to the landfill, I spent more time clearing a jamb than stapling, The Rigid brand stapler has been jamb free.
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post #1152 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 02:22 PM
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I'm on the fence right now regarding wooden panels vs. the Fabricmate tracks. I know I could buy all the materials, including a new table saw, for less than the tracks but I need to consider the time factor. Making 56 panels by hand does not sound like much fun.
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post #1153 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm on the fence right now regarding wooden panels vs. the Fabricmate tracks. I know I could buy all the materials, including a new table saw, for less than the tracks but I need to consider the time factor. Making 56 panels by hand does not sound like much fun.

You need to set it up like an assembly line, use jigs for cutting everything, have guides on your workbench to line everything up square. The part that sucked was cutting the bevel.

There are wall designs that just involve putting furring on the wall and stapling the fabric to the furring, no pre assembly of frames required.
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post #1154 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 06:54 PM
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I forget who's fabric wall jig this was, but it was an idea worth saving.
LL
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post #1155 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 06:57 PM
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thinking it was GPower's?
LL
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post #1156 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 07:04 PM
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Oh man, thats beautiful. Now to find some free time.

Big, just curious, why was the bevel cut the worst part?
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post #1157 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 08:21 PM
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look at the saw set up, it is exactly what they tell you not to do. It you do this never stand behind the blade, I had a few projectiles smacked against the wall.

I imagine you could do this with the right router blade.
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post #1158 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 08:32 PM
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Years ago, my father, who was a very experienced clockmaker and woodworker in his spare time from being a pediatrician, was ripping a thin piece of board on the table saw... probably wasn't using a pusher or the featherboard... and had the piece kick back and hit him in the head. We assume, since nobody else was there, that he must have fallen forward, and ended up running the table saw clear down his left index finger to the last joint. They ended up having to take off the whole finger at the joint. He also drove himself to the hospital since nobody else was home... I miss the older generations... they were hardcore.
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post #1159 of 2466 Old 02-16-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

look at the saw set up, it is exactly what they tell you not to do. It you do this never stand behind the blade, I had a few projectiles smacked against the wall.

I imagine you could do this with the right router blade.

With the frames you guys made, what router bit would give the same results?

FREUD 45° X 1-3/4 In. Chamfer Bit?
Or Bigger
Or smaller?

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post #1160 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 04:50 AM
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Chase I remember measuring the face of the chamfer and it was once inch. so anything slightly larger and up. I would imagine that you would really need a router table. This is the table I have and it is pretty sturdy. I just bought the top with the plastic insert. I set it up on the gap between my table saw and out feed table when I want to use it.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../tabletop.html
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post #1161 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

look at the saw set up, it is exactly what they tell you not to do. It you do this never stand behind the blade, I had a few projectiles smacked against the wall.

I imagine you could do this with the right router blade.

I gots no router table, so it appears I have to go the "fun" route. Nothing like BIG getting me all nervous. I just got the table saw and now I am afraid to use the thing. Heck, the thing has yet to be turned on, all I did was put it together.

I guess another potential solution would be with the same jig that you use for assembly, but instead add a fence and then cut with a jigsaw or circular. It might just take longer so it may only be a good solution if you have a few frames.
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post #1162 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 05:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

I gots no router table, so it appears I have to go the "fun" route. Nothing like BIG getting me all nervous. I just got the table saw and now I am afraid to use the thing. Heck, the thing has yet to be turned on, all I did was put it together.

I guess another potential solution would be with the same jig that you use for assembly, but instead add a fence and then cut with a jigsaw or circular. It might just take longer so it may only be a good solution if you have a few frames.

The easiest solution is to hire BIG to do it with you! --HINT HINT--
Don't forget the meal that goes with the work either.
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post #1163 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 05:38 AM
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post #1164 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 07:50 AM
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I used a $20 clamp down rip fence with my circular saw to rip all my panel strips - took longer than if I had used a table saw - but I don't have one, and really don't want one (coward / takes up more shop space). Then a 1/2" roundover bit on the edges, freehand, no router table. Made a crapload of sawdust, but worked well for me.

Same approach as mentioned above re: butt joints - 3/4" brad nails + liquid nails.
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post #1165 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 07:54 AM
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You could always buy a left tilt saw.
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post #1166 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 08:18 AM
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I don't know if this was ever covered, sorry if it was, but how did you all go about figuring out how much cotton and OC703 should be used? I don't have a clue as to where to start on this aspect. Thanks!

-Sean
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post #1167 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

I gots no router table, so it appears I have to go the "fun" route. Nothing like BIG getting me all nervous. I just got the table saw and now I am afraid to use the thing. Heck, the thing has yet to be turned on, all I did was put it together.

If it bothers you too much, you could build a jig to hold the frame at a 45-degree angle and keep the blade at 90-degrees.

Be careful where you put the brads when you're assembling the frames. You want to try to keep the brads out of the area where the bevel will be cut.

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post #1168 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 09:26 AM
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Be careful where you put the brads when you're assembling the frames. You want to try to keep the brads out of the area where the bevel will be cut.

Yes, I managed to generate a few sparks, If you have a really expensive blade on your table saw you may want to swap it out for a "disposable" blade for this project.
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post #1169 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 09:32 AM
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You could always buy a left tilt saw.

Or just a larger table and fence system for a right tilt saw. Some of the panels on this project were pretty long, so a saw with a large capacity fence or sliding panel cutting jig is required.
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post #1170 of 2466 Old 02-17-2012, 09:55 AM
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Quote:


how did you all go about figuring out how much cotton and OC703 should be used?

A lot of us have used the services of one the experts, like Brian Pape (bpape) to get an acoustic plan.

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http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014847

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