AVS Forum banner
544K views 3K replies 221 participants last post by  damelon 
#1 · (Edited)
Black/Red Theater (Yes it was named something else before)
Construction by BIGmouthinDC and Damelon (Construction Time: 7/26/11 - Mid November 2011)
Inspiration from Sandman's/SMX Theater - Acoustical Plans by Bryan Pape (BPape)

Room Details (Trying to make this a table!)
Initial Space : 23’6”L x 16’4”W x 8’9”H
Wall Construction : Room in a Room. Second wall with 1” gap.
Space after Secondary Wall : 22’8”L x 15’4”W x 8’9”H
Wall Decoupling Method : RISC-DC04 Clips
Ceiling Decoupling Method : Clip & Channel
Drywall Method : 2 Layers of 5/8” Drywall with Green Glue
Door : 28” Wide, 1 ¾” Thick solid core door.
Soffit Size : 16” Wide x 10” Tall
Column Info : 6 Columns, 16” Wide x 10” Deep
Screen Size : 130” Wide (149" diag) SeymourAV Centerstage XD with horizontal masking panels
Stage Specs : 2x10s, Sand Filled, Double ¾” Plywood with Felt
Riser Specs : 2x12s, Insulation Filled, Double ¾” Plywood with Felt
Front Wall Treatment : 2” 3lb Dense Cotton – OC703 Corner Bass Traps
Side Wall Treatments : 1” 3lb Dense Cotton
Rear Wall Treatments : 2” OC703 with Paper Face + 2” air gap
Fabric Colors : GOM Black and GOM Claret Accent.
Paint Color : Behr (Home Depot) Antique Ruby (To Match Fabric)
Viewing Distances : 12’ Front Row, 18’ Rear Row (Approx)
Projector : JVC RS540 E-Shift 4K
Speakers : 3x Axiom M80 L/C/R, 4x Axiom QS8 Surrounds
Subwoofers : 2x Seaton Submersive HP+ (Master & Slave)
Amp : Sunfire TGA7400
Preamp : Denon X4500H (Previously Onkyo PR-SC5508)
HTPC : 50TB Unraid NAS & HTPC using Kodi with RTX2060
Carpet : Stainmaster "Silver Lake" (Lowes)

ALL PHOTOS CAN BE VIEWED IN THE ALBUM LINK BELOW.
BR Theater Build Album

Link to my complete cost breakdown of the theater, along with several links of where I acquired products
https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post21138019

Original Acoustical Plan design (See above for treatment variance on side/rear walls)
Acoustical Plan

Original Completed Photos - Theater (Scope Screen)




Theater Screen Conversion (to 16:9) & Star Ceiling Addition - 2015



 

Pool Information:
Size : (31,000 Gallons) about 42 feet long and 16-20 feet wide depending on location.
Retaining Wall Stone is Sequoia Rustic Ledge from El Dorado Stone
Pool Automation Equipment - Jandy Aqualink
Pool Lights : Hayward Colorlogic
Pool Pumps : Jandy
Pool Heater : Raypak 400k BTU Propane 

Beginning of Patio Project - End Phase 1 - Spring 2013 (Under-Deck, Bar/Grill, and Hot Tub Area)





End of Patio Project - Summer 2016
WINNER : 1st place / Cast-in-Place, Stamped / Under 5,000 SF Category from American Society of Concrete Contractors 2016




Basement Bar Project. Completed July, 2014


 
See less See more
14
#1,044 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/21408119


What happened to the idea of getting a remote control for that sun-room thermostat so that you could turn on either the AC or the Fan only mode from the theater?

That idea hasn't died. In fact I've been trying to remind myself of that a few times now as I still have a lot of interest in doing that.
 
#1,046 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/21408273


She turns it up, you turn it down, she turns it up, you turn it down. This could get interesting, Don't tell her you have the remote, she might think she is losing her mind.

LOL it's not quite like that. She only turned up the temp because of all the people at the house we would end up using that room. I've looked a bunch more into these this afternoon and a cheap thermostat by Radio Thermostat would be great, and I could use my andriod phone to adjust the fan or temps from the movie room over my home wifi network. Perfect!


There was one earlier in the thread where the entire thermostat moved around, thus the temp would be detected from wherever the controller was.
http://www.smarthome.com/30403A/Vens...-Rewire/p.aspx


Either way, i'd be able to adjust the temp from the movie room. I think i'd have to buy 2 of the controllers for the latter choice though, since I'd likely leave the thermostat in the movie room and drive my wife nuts when there is no way to adjust the temp from the sunroom
 
#1,047 ·
I ahve lived with my theater for just over a year and a half. I love the space, but I need to do something with the HVAC. My space has one unit that provides heating and cooling to the basement and the first floor. Another unit provides heating and cooling for the 2nd floor.


When I built my space, I added three air inlets in the theater and one large return. I even boosted the return line with a large inline fan to draw air out. When the theater is full, the room warms up pretty good. I've been contemplating adding a mini-split to the room to provide cooling during all seasons.


What unit are you looking at?
 
#1,048 ·
So it's not the air flow volume so much as it's the absence of cool air?
 
#1,049 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/21409059


So it's not the air flow volume so much as it's the absence of cool air?

Correct. I initially was going to go with a dead vent to my rec room in the basement, which was immediately shelved by the wife. (Mostly because she had no idea what she was talking about). The rec room is a very large space directly adjacent to the theater which is always cool.


I could easily convert my two ducting inlet/outlets to this using the storage room's air, since the supply and return ducting is accessible near the 3rd zone A/C unit in the unfinished storage area, but I don't think it would work very well to that room since it isn't very big and doesn't have a lot of air to move.


The current setup shouldn't be an issue most of the year due to the fact that i can just turn on the A/C. It's just in winter that I can't really do that. And as long as the heat is set to a reasonably low temp for that one zone (like 66) and I have the fan in on-mode while watching a movie, it stays comfortable in the room. It's just when the thermostat is set to like 70 and in normal operation (Not in fan-on mode, just standard auto). When you first walk into the theater it is super warm and takes a bit of time to cool off due to all of the insulation.


Carb - I was considering this mini-split
http://www.thermospace.com/ductless_...mini-split.php


Mostly due to the fact that it has a 20 seer rating, a sanyo compressior unit, and can run as an A/C unit all through winter. All of the cooling things are exactly what I want. The cons however are: Looks (Nice white unit on my red/black walls) and Noise (it will add noise to the theater room when it is running) After spending so much time on the project, those are two big cons though. On that particular mini-split, the plastic case is pretty angular and plain, so it would probably be easily paintable to match the room.


It's not really that expensive, comes with everything I need to install it, and wouldn't require any major modifications to my finished theater space other than drilling a hole for the tubes.
 
#1,050 ·
How do you like the lighting in your theater? Im trying to plan my lighting now and theres a school of thought that you need lights on the ceiling so BigMouthinDC told me to ask how you like yours? Do you ever wish you had down lights above the seating?


I find myself always doing something while I watch tv so I wasn't sure if it would be good to have lights above me to aid in that. How do you have the lights zoned, can you have some of the side 3 inch lights on in the back half of the room but not the front?
 
#1,051 ·
I love the lighting in the theater. The lights in the soffit are more than enough for the seating. In fact I like it much better than standard recessed lighting.


Plus the lights I have are all on a dimmer, so I can make them dim enough to not wash out the projector but light enough to see. Less lights are better if you have the projector on. For a movie room, I can't see myself ever watching TV with it actually "Bright".


There are 4 zones. The sides/back, the stage lights, the rope lights, and the step lights.
 
#1,053 ·
Tom Huffman

ChromaPure Software/AccuPel Video Signal Generators

ISF/THX Calibrations

Rockville, MD



He is a buddy of Mark's (the AVS guy who sold you the projector)


I have no experience with him.


His PM is TomHuffman
 
#1,054 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon /forum/post/21431314


I love the lighting in the theater. The lights in the soffit are more than enough for the seating. In fact I like it much better than standard recessed lighting.


Plus the lights I have are all on a dimmer, so I can make them dim enough to not wash out the projector but light enough to see. Less lights are better if you have the projector on. For a movie room, I can't see myself ever watching TV with it actually "Bright".


There are 4 zones. The sides/back, the stage lights, the rope lights, and the step lights.

Thanks. Im leaning towards nothing in the ceiling. Frankly ive built so much detail into my design from en engineering stand point that I dont want to have to build the boxes for sound for them. I already think that my theater is going to be a pain to build. Its easy creating it in 3d with no concern for how to construct things...
 
#1,055 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES /forum/post/21436271


Thanks. Im leaning towards nothing in the ceiling. Frankly ive built so much detail into my design from en engineering stand point that I dont want to have to build the boxes for sound for them. I already think that my theater is going to be a pain to build. Its easy creating it in 3d with no concern for how to construct things...

Well for instance when BIG and I were originally looking at Ruben's (Sandman/SMX) theater, I said I really liked the soffit and light tray and wanted to do something like that. When it came time to actually building it we really started to wonder how the two connected together. There were never any pictures of how he did it. So we had to come up with something. It's fine to make something in 3D and not know how you will do it until it comes time to do it. Anything can be done as long as you stop to figure out the details at some point.
 
#1,056 ·
Damelon - Do you happen to have a picture of the projector showing it's relation to the back row of seating and the back wall (maybe a picture looking down the aisle of the back row of seating)? Probably an odd picture to have or maybe even take. You may have listed it in your thread somewhere but what was your final screen to projector distance?
 
#1,057 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice /forum/post/21464930


Damelon - Do you happen to have a picture of the projector showing it's relation to the back row of seating and the back wall (maybe a picture looking down the aisle of the back row of seating)? Probably an odd picture to have or maybe even take. You may have listed it in your thread somewhere but what was your final screen to projector distance?

And I also want to know what's your viewing distance (1st & 2nd row) too? I think you said you went to a 138" cinemascope screen right?
 
#1,061 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20818572



We got the stage framed


I'm designing the framing for my stage and had a question on yours. What is the purpose of the double 2x10, between the big rectangle forming the back of the stage and the angled pieces and steps forming the front of the stage? Couldn't you just go with a single 2x10 along the back of the steps and run the cross pieces from the back of the stage all the way to meet that single 2x10?
 
#1,064 ·
The extra time to toenail that mess isn't worth it. Also often the room is wider than your material is long so if you are doing a double you can stagger the seams side to side.The first big rectangle is actually two sitting side by side so there should be another doubling up of the cross pieces.
 
#1,065 ·
Ah, yes...toenailing. I knew there was a reason. Thanks.
 
#1,067 · (Edited)
As for viewing distances, and this is a very quick estimated measurement. The front row is just over 12 feet, and the rear row is about 18 feet.

The distance from the lens to the projector is probably around 15 feet 8 inches give or take a few inches.

Here is a photo to put the projector distance in perspective as requested.

 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top