The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 42 - AVS Forum
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post #1231 of 2568 Old 02-27-2012, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

I like this stage and its construction details so much that I am going to build it in my theater. Thanks Damelon and Big.

Wooo! I wish we could take credit for the design. Although how it was constructed has varied a little bit from one theater to the next, it seems to be very popular these days. It was easily the stage design that interested me most when I looked around the forums, we even mentioned it right at the beginning of the thread. Needless to say, I'm sure you'll be more than happy with yours!

By the way! Thank you all for visiting my thread! We just reached 100,000 views today!
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post #1232 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 06:22 PM
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My imitation of the Bacon Race stage

I have a question on short risers at the above link and would appreciate responses. Thank you
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post #1233 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

My imitation of the Bacon Race stage

I have a question on short risers at the above link and would appreciate responses. Thank you

I dont see your question!
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post #1234 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I dont see your question!

I didnt want to hijack your thread by posting questions there. If you click on the link, you will see it. But, here it is anyway, "I am planning on building a short riser for the front row (about 3" high). Reason: I want to be able to use a butt kicker or equivalent for tactile feedback to the feet which would otherwise not be possible on a concrete slab. Question for all: Are there any light fixtures that might work on such a short riser?"

Thanks
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post #1235 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 06:42 PM
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For short risers, there are step lights the size of a single gang electrical box. If that fits in the riser that is one solution.

Other than you could use a portion of a rope light or a light strip.

Another option that might work is those small little 12v LED step lights designed for outdoor deck lighting. You can run 12v wiring in a riser. Here is a version with a dimmer option, the lights are 1 /2 inches tall.

http://deckdepot.com/aurora_phoenix_...ht_10pack.aspx

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post #1236 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

For short risers, there are step lights the size of a single gang electrical box. If that fits in the riser that is one solution.

Other than you could use a portion of a rope light or a light strip.

Thanks. Any suggestions for a 16" riser design for the 2nd row?
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post #1237 of 2568 Old 02-29-2012, 07:38 PM
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You only need to light the step area so I would use the single box lights.

http://www.wayfair.com/Royal-Pacific...H-RYP2559.html

they come with both the vertical and horizontal louvers use a small dimmable bulb. Paint to any color you wish. Pictures of installation in the Bethesda build thread in my signature.
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post #1238 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You only need to light the step area so I would use the single box lights.

http://www.wayfair.com/Royal-Pacific...H-RYP2559.html

they come with both the vertical and horizontal louvers use a small dimmable bulb. Paint to any color you wish. Pictures of installation in the Bethesda build thread in my signature.

For a two step riser, does how many lights are recommended (one or two lights)?

And my earlier question about a 16" riser design for the 2nd row was about structural design. Are there any specific considerations for a two step riser? I am thinking of two levels of 2x8 topped off by two layers of 3/4" plywood

Thanks
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post #1239 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 06:12 AM
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On steps and lights I would do one per step, if it is a wide step I would do several laterally.

To save lumber you can build risers like a deck. Build a solid perimeter and just hang 2x10s across to support the decking. You can do a mid span support if you want, running perpendicular to the spanners. For the best results use 3 layers of 5/8-3/4 OSB with green glue between layers.
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post #1240 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

On steps and lights I would do one per step, if it is a wide step I would do several laterally.

To save lumber you can build risers like a deck. Build a solid perimeter and just hang 2x10s across to support the decking. You can do a mid span support if you want, running perpendicular to the spanners. For the best results use 3 layers of 5/8-3/4 OSB with green glue between layers.

Thank you
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post #1241 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 07:52 AM
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Did you anchor the stage to the floor/walls? Or let sand and gravity do the trick?
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post #1242 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 08:00 AM
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Gravity but be sure there is a gap between the stage and the wall before adding the sand.

With the rain we had yesterday it will be a some time before any sand stored outside will be dry enough for stage use.
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post #1243 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

To save lumber you can build risers like a deck. Build a solid perimeter and just hang 2x10s across to support the decking. You can do a mid span support if you want, running perpendicular to the spanners. For the best results use 3 layers of 5/8-3/4 OSB with green glue between layers.

Is this what you had in mind?
LL
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post #1244 of 2568 Old 03-01-2012, 08:21 AM
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no, I'll look for a picture. I drew one and it is in your thread. We should take your build questions over there. You may want to change your title (advanced edit function) because the poll is well over.
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post #1245 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 05:59 PM
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Well today we made it purty. I met with Damelon in the AM and he went to work, When he got back I was just cleaning up and he manned the vacuum.

Riser, When I left Damelon's on Sunday the first layer of decking had been screwed down, a layer of roofing felt and the second layer was just tacked down on the front edge. So I finished screwing the second layer then cut the 1 1/2 inch lip. I also rounded over the edge with a router to make the carpet wrap better. Since a decision was made to go with a single layer step I added a 2x2 extension lip so the step edge will match all the others in the theater.

Pictures:





Yes Damelon is planning the next steps, those blue tape marks are tentative column locations.








OK, now the other side of the room

Earlier this week Damelon had a helper fill all the tall sections of the stage with sand. Each section lined with 3mil plastic. Here is how it looked this AM.





I added a layer of 3/4 plywood and roofing felt.



Then another layer of 3/4. Then I scribed the curve and straight cuts and went after it. It was at this point the the stars lined up and when I finished cutting away the excess, it fell down and fit the first step perfectly. I actually stared at it a minute because I thought I was going to start from scratch cutting wood for the step. Instead I could use what fell into place with just an additional piece in the middle.

What fell on the right



On the left



Before I buttoned it up I stuffed the cavities



GOT STAGE!


Looks like the outlet boxes in the riser are flush with the lumber. What allowance is needed for the carpet?
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post #1246 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 06:13 PM
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they are the Carlon adjustable depth boxes mounted to the face of the steps. Once the carpet is installed you can pull them out (by turning a screw) to what ever height works best. You need to do a little surgery on the metal bracket that comes with the box. Then you can simply screw to the face of the step.
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post #1247 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 07:00 PM
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How was the 28" door to work with? As far as getting furniture in and out? I know it may have been calculated in which door you needed, but would you recommend a 32 or 36" door rather the 28"?

-----------------------------------------------
Chase "Fetch"


Current Theater Build
 

New House Build

 

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post #1248 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 08:11 PM
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A lot of home theater seats have removable backs. Then you just turn the chair on it's side and maneuver it in. If you are going to be bringing in full size sofas plan accordingly.
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post #1249 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 08:45 PM
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How many outlets did you provide for each row (for electric recline/butt kickers)? Is a single outlet enough allowing you to daisy chain the seats in a row?
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post #1250 of 2568 Old 03-02-2012, 10:08 PM
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Is a single outlet enough allowing you to daisy chain the seats in a row?

You can hide a power-strip under the chairs, The chairs usually have a 6 ft cord so you can plan accordingly.

Depending on what model/make Buttkicker product you use will dictate power requirements, my Aura Pros run of speaker wire with the amp in the equipment stack.
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post #1251 of 2568 Old 03-03-2012, 07:26 AM
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Like Big suggests, one outlet to the riser (centrally located) and then just use a power strip to plug all of the chairs in. Their current draw is not that much, even if all four chairs in a row were moving at once.

Regarding the Buttkickers, I would definitely put the amp in the rack, but I would also suggest buying one other product - their Quick Connect / Quick Select package. This will allow you to run a single wire run to this device and then home run each of up to four chairs. What makes it nice is that you can select which chairs get the Buttkicker action and which do not. Typically I will hide this device discreetly in the theater so if someone doesn't want the Buttkickers on, I can mock them openly and reach around while still in the theater and shut their chair "off". My wife doesn't like the shaking, so it is just a turn of a knob to exclude up to 3 of the chairs. Here is a link: http://www.thebuttkicker.com/home_th...sories/qcp.htm
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post #1252 of 2568 Old 03-04-2012, 12:16 PM
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as far as the panels on the wall, what is the best practice. Panels and then molding on the panels or molding and then the panels start above them?
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post #1253 of 2568 Old 03-04-2012, 08:25 PM
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It's all about the look you want, but the ability to hide staples with molding and columns can make the process quicker.
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post #1254 of 2568 Old 03-05-2012, 05:45 AM
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I'm planning to use this method from Big's theater inspiration. Cover the staples with molding. Looks much faster to construct to me.
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post #1255 of 2568 Old 03-05-2012, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
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It's all about the look you want, but the ability to hide staples with molding and columns can make the process quicker.

Yeah, but with the fabric frames. the staples are on the backside any way. so I guess it is up to me still. I am thinking I will got the molding to wall with frame resting on top, seems the easiest for some reason.
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post #1256 of 2568 Old 03-05-2012, 08:14 AM
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I will be using the "furring on the wall first" method in Ohio next week and there will be pictures documenting the approach in that thread.
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post #1257 of 2568 Old 03-05-2012, 11:41 AM
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I will be using the "furring on the wall first" method in Ohio next week and there will be pictures documenting the approach in that thread.

ah yes, we mixed thoughts and builds. I was referring to the method of things in the Bacon race here, with the individual panels. But I can see why with the furring strips one would want to use molding on top.

I finally started to make some frames to finish some open items like the under side of my steps. Completed first layer of cut pieces, working on second and then I need to glue them all together. The interesting part is that in a span of 21", my staircase frame got like 1/16" wider, so all the cuts are different widths, so I am measuring each piece. Makes things take a little longer than expected.

The stairs and its framing were there, so this is not my doing, I am simply working with what I was given. Either way it is a milestone to begin work on a frame.

Still waiting to hear back from bpape on some other questions I have for him. Both email and PM have gone un-responded thus far. Anyone hear from the man lately, just checking to make sure I am contacting the correct channels.
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post #1258 of 2568 Old 03-05-2012, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Still waiting to hear back from bpape on some other questions I have for him. Both email and PM have gone un-responded thus far. Anyone hear from the man lately, just checking to make sure I am contacting the correct channels.

Byran is a great resource, but when it comes to PM or email, he doesn't always get around to them. If you need him right away, and are paying him, always call him. He checks the boards here a LOT less than he used to, and when he gets busy he doesn't read his emails... but he always picks up the phone!
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post #1259 of 2568 Old 03-06-2012, 07:14 AM
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you mean like calling him direct at GIK?
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post #1260 of 2568 Old 03-06-2012, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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you mean like calling him direct at GIK?

He called me direct when I said I was interested in hiring him and gave me his number. We actually had several "Free" conversations/consultations before I ever actually hired him.
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