The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 44 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1291 of 3019 Old 03-24-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

in this case but there is an example of an outlet on a 1 inch thick fabric wall on the Black Cat theater thread. You build a furring frame surrounding the outlet, staple the fabric, cut a hole for the receptacle, You need to pull the receptacle out flush with extra long screws, The cover plate covers the staples. Make sure you know how big it is and where you can staple.

What if the panel is two inches thick? I couldn't find a 2" extender
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post #1292 of 3019 Old 03-24-2012, 08:12 PM
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Stack two one inch extenders and get some very long screws.
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post #1293 of 3019 Old 03-24-2012, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Stack two one inch extenders and get some very long screws.

That works. If you already have a gang box in the wall pre-panel then that is really the only choice you have. For my light switches, I still had access to the back of the wall. There are lots of choices then. You can cut the hole and use an adjustable gangbox, which lets you make the depth above the drywall to begin with. So that also gives leeway. This is something we did discuss from the beginning, since we knew things like this would be a problem. In fact, we considered 2" treatments early on. So we were talking about how we would hang the door, how the knob and hinges would work, how the light switches would work. Planning is everything. If you think about stuff like that early on, then it can't surprise you later. I was fortunate to have BIG to ping all of these questions off of, and hopefully threads like these help others in the future when they do similar things.

As for all of the recepticles...yeah, what BIG said. Every column has one on the side. The point being, they aren't attractive and I didn't want them noticed. Two pair behind the screen wall, one on the riser too. The two rear columns had both on the insides, so easy to plug in the couches there without the cords being visible in the room. Worked out well too when I put those back vornado tower fans on the front corners of the stage since the cords pluged into the side of the front columns that face the stage.
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post #1294 of 3019 Old 03-24-2012, 09:06 PM
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How did you fasten the fiberglass panel to the drywall?
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post #1295 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 05:11 AM
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On this project the 2 inch fiberglass panels were friction fit in the wood frames, the details are in the thread. On other projects it is attached to the wall with drywall screws, but on the last job I tried a new screw and it really worked well. Some guys use 3M spray glue, I tend not to like working in the fumes. You really don't need a lot of holding power because if you do the fabric right it does all the holding.

The new screw I tried is the Power Head from Fast Cap. For two inches of material you should order the 3 inch. Use 6-8 for a 48 x96 inch piece of Linacoustic/fiberglass.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0830...Cabinet-Screws
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post #1296 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

On this project the 2 inch fiberglass panels were friction fit in the wood frames, the details are in the thread. On other projects it is attached to the wall with drywall screws, but on the last job I tried a new screw and it really worked well. Some guys use 3M spray glue, I tend not to like working in the fumes. You really don't need a lot of holding power because if you do the fabric right it does all the holding.

The new screw I tried is the Power Head from Fast Cap. For two inches of material you should order the 3 inch. Use 6-8 for a 48 x96 inch piece of Linacoustic/fiberglass.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0830...Cabinet-Screws

That seems like a good idea. I have posted a few questions on my thread. Would. Appreciate any insights. Thanks
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post #1297 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

As far as the acoustic plan, here is the last copy I sent. The only difference here is that we changed the side wall acoustical treatments to 1" and the rear wall 4". This is what Bryan wanted to do, but I told him I would rather not do 4" in the back... which I changed my mind on in the end, and am very happy I did so.

What is your speaker configuration? Are the ones outside the room simulating reflections?
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post #1298 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

What is your speaker configuration? Are the ones outside the room simulating reflections?

It's a standard 7.2 setup. Front 3 and 2 subs behind the screen wall, 4 rear (2 rear / 2 side) inside the columns. If you are looking at the plan picture, yes, that's how bpape shows the reflections. There are no actual speakers outside of the room.
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post #1299 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

So here was the first panel we created today. If you would like to see how we do the fabric process, here it is.

Step one. Align one the fabric up on one corner of the panel and staple.

Then pull the far corner (lengthwise) tight, but make sure the seam is even along the frame so that the fibers aren't wonky, and staple!

Line up the center of that side with the edge of the fabric to make sure it is straight and throw a staple there to hold it in place.

Then you can just quickly staple that entire side along the edge.

So these black panels are not absorptive as called for in the plans?
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post #1300 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Finally we put up all of the friction-fit screenwall panels and the screen frame.

Looks like your front surrounds are closer to the screen than the front row and not inline it and listeners' ears. Or is it a purely ornamental column (no speakers)?
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post #1301 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

So these black panels are not absorptive as called for in the plans?

This is only true for that very skinny panel at the very top of the wall . After the frame there really wan't much room left for absorption.

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post #1302 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Looks like your front surrounds are closer to the screen than the front row and not inline it and listeners' ears. Or is it a purely ornamental column (no speakers)?

The side surrounds are slightly behind the front row. Front columns are ornamental
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post #1303 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

COLUMN BUILDING DETAILS

Recalling an earlier post the columns were inspired by Sandman's original round columns. So the question was without buying half round plywood forms like Ruben, what could we do to create some roundness and strong horizontal lines like Ruben's grooves.

Here is the idea Damelon and I came up with:

A three part column with rounded out trim above and below the speaker area. The speaker area will covered with black GOM FR701.

I built a prototype of the round out area to test the look and materials

Damelon said go

First up was a cutting a bunch of wood for the square box parts. Just 4 sided boxes, no internal bracing necessary, all butt joints.

Then we needed to add a rounded bump out so I needed a bunch of round pieces.

I built a jig to do this.

Mounted a jig saw on a scrap piece of Pergo with double sided carpet seam tape.

I calculated that the radius should be 29.75 inches to get the amount of curve over a 18 inch width. So the distance from the blade to the screw pivot point is 29.75.

Then I mounted the Pergo swing arm on a little Jig

It had a shelf to rest the MDF to be cut

And I cut 36 of these guys

The round outs on the columns consist of three of these pieces glued and nailed to the face of the square column faces. Then I covered the three supports with a piece of wall paneling. It is that faux wood paneling they sell at HD cut into 6 inch strips and just used upside down. The backs actually have a nice smooth finish.

Then I added matching pieces on the sides, you can almost see in this picture:

If you look you can see the base of the column that sits on and off the riser. Had to make the base of those columns at three levels to fit.

Next I needed the bump out trim bits. I wanted something about 3/8 x 1 1/4. Of course there wasn't anything on the shelf that size so I cut down 1x2s to size. I used Tuf Board that they sell at HD. I think it is a mixture of PVC and wood dust. An 8 foot length is like a wet noodle, at 18 inches sometimes you have to use and extra finish nail or two to hold it tight until the glue dries.

I also had to round over the edges

did that with a router table

a little bit later I had enough

cut some pieces to the right length and the right miters

glued and screwed to the fronts, used a spacer for the middle trim

added the sides. Then repeat for the 108 trim pieces.

column at the riser front

The middle section was detailed earlier in the thread, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20949031 I just need to add that we did fill the metal support members with dry sand. Plugged the bottom end with a wad of insulation and sealed the bottom with black silicon seal, let dry, then Damelon poured in about two cups of sand and we topped off the last 1/2 inch with silicon seal.

full size column

column at the back of the theater

Now I need to fill the nail holes, do some wood putty work, sand, seal, sand, prime and paint.

This is awesome! Did you fill the box cavities with fiberglass?
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post #1304 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

This is awesome! Did you fill the box cavities with fiberglass?

Yes.
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post #1305 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 05:13 PM
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Hey Damelon

Are your front columns pre-wired for anything? or purely symmetrical aesthetics?

-----------------------------------------------
Chase "Fetch"

Old Theater Build

New House Build
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post #1306 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Damelon

Are your front columns pre-wired for anything? or purely symmetrical aesthetics?

Just power (for outlets) no speakers. It's purely for uniformity. It would seem unbalanced to me if there was nothing there.

If there was some future need to add speakers there, it wouldn't be hard. The hardest part would be prying out the middle column section (They are in there tight) but running additional wire down the soffit wouldn't be very difficult.
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post #1307 of 3019 Old 03-25-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post


I cannot wait to hear how great a movie played through my speakers will sound once all of the room treatments and the carpet are finished.

So, how do ou rate the experience?
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post #1308 of 3019 Old 03-26-2012, 06:41 AM
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There are wall designs that just involve putting furring on the wall and stapling the fabric to the furring, no pre assembly of frames required.

Any reason that you decided not to use one of these wall designs? Where can one find these? Thanks
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post #1309 of 3019 Old 03-26-2012, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Any reason that you decided not to use one of these wall designs? Where can one find these? Thanks

My theater, The Ohio project, The black cat all in my signature, Also search for CurtisG's theater http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=36+month (Your Neighbor), ChinaDogs theater, and my original inspiration theater http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

Be aware that there are a number of tricks to hide the staples and often a critical sequence of putting the strips and fabric on the wall, it will take some research and study to understand.
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post #1310 of 3019 Old 03-26-2012, 07:23 AM
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OK, took all the assembled frames and put on the beveled edge with a table saw.

This picture will make a lot of table saw safety gurus cringe, It made my saw cringe.



One order of frames to go, hold the bevel on two.


If the width of the plywood is 1-1/2", then in the final assembly there must be a 3" gap at least between the fiberglass? Is that the minimum gap one could safely achieve?
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post #1311 of 3019 Old 03-26-2012, 07:29 AM
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it wasn't safety it was minimum width before the panels would bend under the tension of the fabric. This was it. Even at this width we ended up inserting some bracing on a lot of panels. Your results may vary. You may want to consider the fabricmate.com plastic track system. Get two inch track and mount it on two inch furring.
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post #1312 of 3019 Old 03-26-2012, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

So, how do ou rate the experience?

Both Audio and Video wise, I absolutely love my theater. I am thrilled with my projector choice. It is absolutely stunning. Sharp, Bright, and excellent color. Far and away better than my wife's old AE3000, and better than my old Mitsubishi projector.

Sound wise, it's exactly what I expected it to be. Audio is crystal clear, and vocals are easy to understand. I hear no echos at all. I can play a movie at volume levels I like (Loud) and everything comes through with shining colors.

I still need to fix my subs, they both have faulty volume knobs on their amps, which Axiom told me happened to a few batches and will fix them. I keep forgetting to do it.
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post #1313 of 3019 Old 03-27-2012, 12:39 PM
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They are going to be black but first a coat of primer. I will do another coat turning the swivels the opposite direction. I'm under the deck in case it starts to rain again. Hmm, I see a spot I missed. Mosquitoes STAY AWAY DO NOT LAND HERE!


Hey Big, I'm going to attempt to do this this weekend. Did you sand these down before priming them or is that what the primer is for?


Thanks in advance,
Shadez
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post #1314 of 3019 Old 03-27-2012, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Both Audio and Video wise, I absolutely love my theater.
Sound wise, it's exactly what I expected it to be. Audio is crystal clear, and vocals are easy to understand. I hear no echos at all. I can play a movie at volume levels I like (Loud) and everything comes through with shining colors.

That's great. Using your old audio gear?
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post #1315 of 3019 Old 03-27-2012, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

That's great. Using your old audio gear?

I purchased the speakers back in 2007. At the time I had a normal center channel, and upgraded that to a 3rd tower speaker due to the false wall.

I had the sunfire amp for them at the time too, as it is a very good and powerful 7 channel amp.

As for the pre-amp, I got that last year. I upgraded from my old Integra 9.8.

I talked with Axiom yesterday and got the ball rolling on my subwoofer amp units. The tech was amazed that the problem happened to both of my units, but in a couple of weeks they should be both upgraded and working properly across the whole audio range. (The volume knob was not uniform, it was almost doing a parabolic power curve, so only the first 10% of the range was usable as the power scaled up almost exponentially as you turned the knob)
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post #1316 of 3019 Old 03-27-2012, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I purchased the speakers back in 2007. At the time I had a normal center channel, and upgraded that to a 3rd tower speaker due to the false wall.

I had the sunfire amp for them at the time too, as it is a very good and powerful 7 channel amp.

As for the pre-amp, I got that last year. I upgraded from my old Integra 9.8.

So, most of the dramatic improvement in your listening experience can be attributed primarily to the acoustical treatment?
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post #1317 of 3019 Old 03-27-2012, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

So, most of the dramatic improvement in your listening experience can be attributed to the acoustical treatment?

That is part of it. A lot of articles and books about home theater will tell you that room treatments are just as important as your equipment. Putting high end equipment in a poorly treated space is a big waste of money.

There's the new pre-amp too. The new Audessy xt32 does an excellent job at spatial equalization. A lot of people purchase pre-amps/receivers with it because it makes a big difference.
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post #1318 of 3019 Old 03-30-2012, 05:26 PM
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Hey Big, I'm going to attempt to do this this weekend. Did you sand these down before priming them or is that what the primer is for?

no sanding, just be sure they are clean, I like to use a clean rag with acetone.
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post #1319 of 3019 Old 03-31-2012, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS


Apologies for quoting this entire post, but I'm FINALLY at this point in my own build so a few questions related to soffits and the pictures this post...

1. When using 2x2's in my build so far, it's 50/50 on whether they split or not when putting a screw or nail into them. I'm guessing you used a countersink bit for both screwing the MDF soffit face to the 2x2 and also screwing that 2x2 onto the ceiling?

2. For the front soffit on the curved part, where you used 1/2" MDF, did you only add blocking for the butt seam in the middle part of the soffit and then glue and nail both sides of the seam to that single piece of blocking? And this blocking is plywood? I wouldn't think plywood is acceptable for edge nailing/screwing?

3. What prep is necessary before painting the MDF soffit faces with the flat black paint? Primer? Sealer? Just paint?

Thanks as always...
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post #1320 of 3019 Old 03-31-2012, 09:05 PM
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We used a lot of finish nails (with a gun, 18 gauge) on the light tray, that and lots of glue. We only used screws where we needed extra holding until the glue dried and the middle of the front round was one spot. When I start splitting 2x2s I drill pilot holes. Using an impact driver usually results in a self countersinking screw, One this light tray I used a lot of 23 gauge pins to hold the 2nd and third layer of 1/2 MDF until the wood glue dried. Very small heads paint pretty much takes care of the holes.

Blocking on the front = 5. Middle, ends and in-between, the round bottom determined the shape the blocking just kept the board vertical.

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.
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