The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 45 - AVS Forum
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post #1321 of 2473 Old 03-27-2012, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Both Audio and Video wise, I absolutely love my theater.
Sound wise, it's exactly what I expected it to be. Audio is crystal clear, and vocals are easy to understand. I hear no echos at all. I can play a movie at volume levels I like (Loud) and everything comes through with shining colors.

That's great. Using your old audio gear?
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post #1322 of 2473 Old 03-27-2012, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

That's great. Using your old audio gear?

I purchased the speakers back in 2007. At the time I had a normal center channel, and upgraded that to a 3rd tower speaker due to the false wall.

I had the sunfire amp for them at the time too, as it is a very good and powerful 7 channel amp.

As for the pre-amp, I got that last year. I upgraded from my old Integra 9.8.

I talked with Axiom yesterday and got the ball rolling on my subwoofer amp units. The tech was amazed that the problem happened to both of my units, but in a couple of weeks they should be both upgraded and working properly across the whole audio range. (The volume knob was not uniform, it was almost doing a parabolic power curve, so only the first 10% of the range was usable as the power scaled up almost exponentially as you turned the knob)
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post #1323 of 2473 Old 03-27-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I purchased the speakers back in 2007. At the time I had a normal center channel, and upgraded that to a 3rd tower speaker due to the false wall.

I had the sunfire amp for them at the time too, as it is a very good and powerful 7 channel amp.

As for the pre-amp, I got that last year. I upgraded from my old Integra 9.8.

So, most of the dramatic improvement in your listening experience can be attributed primarily to the acoustical treatment?
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post #1324 of 2473 Old 03-27-2012, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

So, most of the dramatic improvement in your listening experience can be attributed to the acoustical treatment?

That is part of it. A lot of articles and books about home theater will tell you that room treatments are just as important as your equipment. Putting high end equipment in a poorly treated space is a big waste of money.

There's the new pre-amp too. The new Audessy xt32 does an excellent job at spatial equalization. A lot of people purchase pre-amps/receivers with it because it makes a big difference.
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post #1325 of 2473 Old 03-30-2012, 05:26 PM
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Hey Big, I'm going to attempt to do this this weekend. Did you sand these down before priming them or is that what the primer is for?

no sanding, just be sure they are clean, I like to use a clean rag with acetone.
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post #1326 of 2473 Old 03-31-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS


Apologies for quoting this entire post, but I'm FINALLY at this point in my own build so a few questions related to soffits and the pictures this post...

1. When using 2x2's in my build so far, it's 50/50 on whether they split or not when putting a screw or nail into them. I'm guessing you used a countersink bit for both screwing the MDF soffit face to the 2x2 and also screwing that 2x2 onto the ceiling?

2. For the front soffit on the curved part, where you used 1/2" MDF, did you only add blocking for the butt seam in the middle part of the soffit and then glue and nail both sides of the seam to that single piece of blocking? And this blocking is plywood? I wouldn't think plywood is acceptable for edge nailing/screwing?

3. What prep is necessary before painting the MDF soffit faces with the flat black paint? Primer? Sealer? Just paint?

Thanks as always...
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post #1327 of 2473 Old 03-31-2012, 09:05 PM
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We used a lot of finish nails (with a gun, 18 gauge) on the light tray, that and lots of glue. We only used screws where we needed extra holding until the glue dried and the middle of the front round was one spot. When I start splitting 2x2s I drill pilot holes. Using an impact driver usually results in a self countersinking screw, One this light tray I used a lot of 23 gauge pins to hold the 2nd and third layer of 1/2 MDF until the wood glue dried. Very small heads paint pretty much takes care of the holes.

Blocking on the front = 5. Middle, ends and in-between, the round bottom determined the shape the blocking just kept the board vertical.

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.
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post #1328 of 2473 Old 03-31-2012, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

We used a lot of finish nails (with a gun, 18 gauge) on the light tray, that and lots of glue. We only used screws where we needed extra holding until the glue dried and the middle of the front round was one spot. When I start splitting 2x2s I drill pilot holes. Using an impact driver usually results in a self countersinking screw, One this light tray I used a lot of 23 gauge pins to hold the 2nd and third layer of 1/2 MDF until the wood glue dried. Very small heads paint pretty much takes care of the holes.

Blocking on the front = 5. Middle, ends and in-between, the round bottom determined the shape the blocking just kept the board vertical.

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

You're the man, Big. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I'd never attempt this without it.

Last question for now... edge nailing the MDF soffit (front sides, both) into plywood. Sounds like you're using smaller nails hoping to just get it to grip long enough for the glue to do the "heavy lifting"?
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post #1329 of 2473 Old 03-31-2012, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

Hey Big;

Thanks for this great info on the MDF finishing process. I'll be adding a sheet to my door with green glue soon and was wondering what you used to fill the countersunk screw holes. Just regular wood filler?

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post #1330 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 04:51 AM
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I've heard of some guys using drywall mud
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post #1331 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post



I've heard of some guys using drywall mud


In a pinch I have used drywall mud to fill screw holes, too lazy to drive to get some wood filler that WASN"T dried out I guess. I was not happy with the results of the drywall mud so I would suggest the wood filler. Not had any issues with that. Safest bet IMHO.

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Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #1332 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 05:27 AM
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Yes wood filler has a shelf life. If it isn't close to the consistency of drywall mud it is getting too old. It also helps not to try to fill big holes or cracks on the first attempt, several light coats gets the best results.
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post #1333 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 07:26 AM
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Thanks Big and RTROSE. I'll pick up some wood filler and use that.

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post #1334 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 02:58 PM
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Big,

I think I'm going to do another wood run tomorrow if UHaul has anything available. Im not sure if it was this build or one of your others, but aren't you a fan of ripping 2x4's in half instead of buying 2x2's? I've got a table saw and it looks like it could save some money, albeit add a little time ripping them.
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post #1335 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 04:44 PM
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Damelon/BIG,
What was the brand & color of the red paint you used to paint the trim and columns? (Sorry if it was mentioned earlier in the thread and I just missed).

Awesome job guys, btw!
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post #1336 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MovieMike View Post

Damelon/BIG,
What was the brand & color of the red paint you used to paint the trim and columns? (Sorry if it was mentioned earlier in the thread and I just missed).

Awesome job guys, btw!

I believe it was Baer "Antique Ruby" (Home Depot brand). It looks hot pink when it's wet but dries to match the "Claret Accent" GOM. It would have been much easier if i just got the Red Gom.
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post #1337 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post

Big,

I think I'm going to do another wood run tomorrow if UHaul has anything available. I'm not sure if it was this build or one of your others, but aren't you a fan of ripping 2x4's in half instead of buying 2x2's? I've got a table saw and it looks like it could save some money, albeit add a little time ripping them.

If there are good 2x2s on hand I buy them. Often what is on the shelf is junk and then ripping premium studs is a good alternative.

If you need 1 inch furring then ripping is the best solution.
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post #1338 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I believe it was Baer "Antique Ruby" (Home Depot brand). It looks hot pink when it's wet but dries to match the "Claret Accent" GOM. It would have been much easier if i just got the Red Gom.

and that is precisely what I am gonna use! I'm all about easy, hmmm that could be interpretive in a few ways...

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post #1339 of 2473 Old 04-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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^^^ditto! that's why I asked

Thanks Damelon for the fast reply.
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post #1340 of 2473 Old 04-02-2012, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad I could help then! At least you won't have to suffer the paint matching headache. That claret color is not an easy one!
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post #1341 of 2473 Old 04-04-2012, 01:33 PM
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Damelon - You had a sketch of your room showing the riser depth at 7'-6". It's hard to tell but is that dimension from the face of the column, the face of the wall treatments, or the drywall?
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post #1342 of 2473 Old 04-04-2012, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Damelon - You had a sketch of your room showing the riser depth at 7'-6". It's hard to tell but is that dimension from the face of the column, the face of the wall treatments, or the drywall?

Without looking at the sketch, I believe it was from the back wall (Drywall) to the front of the riser.
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post #1343 of 2473 Old 04-04-2012, 03:28 PM
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I assume you have plenty of room with the chairs fully reclined? Maybe not enough for someone to walk by but enough so the second row feet aren't at the head of the first row.
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post #1344 of 2473 Old 04-04-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I assume you have plenty of room with the chairs fully reclined? Maybe not enough for someone to walk by but enough so the second row feet aren't at the head of the first row.

Actually, it's probably the smallest depth it could be at. These chairs dont really recline backwards very much (They mostly slide down and forwards) but if both the front and rear rows are reclined, (or maybe its if the rear is reclined and the front is not) some feet in the back row are close the tops of heads in the front row.

The reason it gets that close is that there are 4" treatments on the back wall plus the column depth, which was put on additional 2" spacers so that it looked like the rest of the walls. So out of that 7' 6", I probably lost about a foot of that space since the row of chairs is wider than the space between the rear columns so needs to be placed in front of the rear columns.

And that riser depth was a complete guess when we were doing initial planning. So I really couldn't ask for a closer call than that. The room dimensions worked out perfectly, to be honest.
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post #1345 of 2473 Old 04-04-2012, 06:50 PM
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I see. I have been looking at my own layout and wanting to maximize space in the back row. But I also do not want my front row in the screen. That 7'-6" dimension looks like a good benchmark. Thanks for the info.
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post #1346 of 2473 Old 04-05-2012, 06:14 PM
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I just have to drop a quick note of thanks as today I finished installing the soffit in my theater (light tray is next) that I dare say is an almost exact replica of these soffits (went 14" wide instead of 16" on the soffit box due to room width.) Anyway, I followed this thread to the T as well as Big's prep instructions for MDF and it actually looks like I know what I'm doing. Amazing. No, seriously.

For anyone using sanding sealer for the first time (like me), this stuff is basically really runny, liquid super glue. I had a runaway drop of it land on my arm and thought nothing of it and then ten minutes later it's EXACTLY like when you get superglue on you. Post-shower? Yep, still there... covering at least 20 arm hairs so I'm not touching it. I'll wait it out.

On the light trays, I had HD cut me some 5.5" strips of 3/4 MDF this morning so I can get cracking after I get this mouse paint up tomorrow morning. Since the bottoms are 5.5" wide and they attach to the middle of the soffit's outer 2x2, am I correct in assuming the plywood blocking you used is a 5" by 5" square of 3/4 ply? I bought some 3/4 ply today as well but I'll rip those myself since I didn't know.

Thanks again guys... my room is finally looking like a theater and everyone who sees it will think I've taken a freaking carpentry class.
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post #1347 of 2473 Old 04-05-2012, 07:02 PM
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post #1348 of 2473 Old 04-07-2012, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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5x5 doesn't sound right.

The bottom piece of our light tray was 5.5" wide, and then the vertical piece of the light tray was attached to the end of that, making it appear longer (if viewing from the bottom). The "Blocking" we used was 5" high by 4" deep or so. Keep in mind that the bottom 2x2 of the soffit had 3/4" MDF on the outside of it (facing the middle of the room) and we went 1.5" overlap of the bottom piece of the light tray (to cover the 3/4" mdf and 3/4" of the 2x2) That left 4 inches of the light tray bottom sticking out from the soffit itself. The vertical piece of MDF facing on the inside of the light tray was connected to the end of the horizontal piece, so it didn't add to any space inside of the light tray itself.

You might also notice in some of the pictures that we used another kind of blocking where the MDF seams joined which was just a flat piece of plywood on the inside of the light tray seam, which allowed us to keep all of the pieces even and flush.
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post #1349 of 2473 Old 04-07-2012, 01:07 PM
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Yeah, that makes sense. I was eyeballing it while trying to hold an eight foot long strip on the soffit bottom with one hand and the recessed light in the other and came to 5x5 as a guess so now I know it's 5x4... thank you.

Last questions and I promise I'll leave you alone on the soffit.

1. How much space is between each block on the soffit? I was going to go about every 32" but it looks like you may have gone farther. I'm worried about sagging.

2. On the 5.5" bottoms, did you round over the edge facing the room? I can't tell from the pics but thought that might look nice.

Thanks again!
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post #1350 of 2473 Old 04-07-2012, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post

Yeah, that makes sense. I was eyeballing it while trying to hold an eight foot long strip on the soffit bottom with one hand and the recessed light in the other and came to 5x5 as a guess so now I know it's 5x4... thank you.

Last questions and I promise I'll leave you alone on the soffit.

1. How much space is between each block on the soffit? I was going to go about every 32" but it looks like you may have gone farther. I'm worried about sagging.

2. On the 5.5" bottoms, did you round over the edge facing the room? I can't tell from the pics but thought that might look nice.

Thanks again!

1) There was no specific measurement for the blocking. We knew were our lights would be, and just made sure the blocking wasn't there. It was pretty much eyeballed since it's nonvisual.

2) The 5.5" bottoms aren't on the edge. The interior vertical piece of MDF which faces the middle of the room covers the end of the 5.5" bottom. That piece is rounded on the bottom edge. The top edge was not rounded since it would be covered with 2 more MDF layers to make the tiered look.
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