The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 3019 Old 03-31-2012, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

We used a lot of finish nails (with a gun, 18 gauge) on the light tray, that and lots of glue. We only used screws where we needed extra holding until the glue dried and the middle of the front round was one spot. When I start splitting 2x2s I drill pilot holes. Using an impact driver usually results in a self countersinking screw, One this light tray I used a lot of 23 gauge pins to hold the 2nd and third layer of 1/2 MDF until the wood glue dried. Very small heads paint pretty much takes care of the holes.

Blocking on the front = 5. Middle, ends and in-between, the round bottom determined the shape the blocking just kept the board vertical.

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

You're the man, Big. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I'd never attempt this without it.

Last question for now... edge nailing the MDF soffit (front sides, both) into plywood. Sounds like you're using smaller nails hoping to just get it to grip long enough for the glue to do the "heavy lifting"?
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post #1322 of 3019 Old 03-31-2012, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

Hey Big;

Thanks for this great info on the MDF finishing process. I'll be adding a sheet to my door with green glue soon and was wondering what you used to fill the countersunk screw holes. Just regular wood filler?

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post #1323 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 04:51 AM
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I've heard of some guys using drywall mud
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post #1324 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post



I've heard of some guys using drywall mud


In a pinch I have used drywall mud to fill screw holes, too lazy to drive to get some wood filler that WASN"T dried out I guess. I was not happy with the results of the drywall mud so I would suggest the wood filler. Not had any issues with that. Safest bet IMHO.

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post #1325 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 05:27 AM
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Yes wood filler has a shelf life. If it isn't close to the consistency of drywall mud it is getting too old. It also helps not to try to fill big holes or cracks on the first attempt, several light coats gets the best results.
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post #1326 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 07:26 AM
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Thanks Big and RTROSE. I'll pick up some wood filler and use that.

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post #1327 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 02:58 PM
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Big,

I think I'm going to do another wood run tomorrow if UHaul has anything available. Im not sure if it was this build or one of your others, but aren't you a fan of ripping 2x4's in half instead of buying 2x2's? I've got a table saw and it looks like it could save some money, albeit add a little time ripping them.
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post #1328 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 04:44 PM
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Damelon/BIG,
What was the brand & color of the red paint you used to paint the trim and columns? (Sorry if it was mentioned earlier in the thread and I just missed).

Awesome job guys, btw!
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post #1329 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieMike View Post

Damelon/BIG,
What was the brand & color of the red paint you used to paint the trim and columns? (Sorry if it was mentioned earlier in the thread and I just missed).

Awesome job guys, btw!

I believe it was Baer "Antique Ruby" (Home Depot brand). It looks hot pink when it's wet but dries to match the "Claret Accent" GOM. It would have been much easier if i just got the Red Gom.
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post #1330 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post

Big,

I think I'm going to do another wood run tomorrow if UHaul has anything available. I'm not sure if it was this build or one of your others, but aren't you a fan of ripping 2x4's in half instead of buying 2x2's? I've got a table saw and it looks like it could save some money, albeit add a little time ripping them.

If there are good 2x2s on hand I buy them. Often what is on the shelf is junk and then ripping premium studs is a good alternative.

If you need 1 inch furring then ripping is the best solution.
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post #1331 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I believe it was Baer "Antique Ruby" (Home Depot brand). It looks hot pink when it's wet but dries to match the "Claret Accent" GOM. It would have been much easier if i just got the Red Gom.

and that is precisely what I am gonna use! I'm all about easy, hmmm that could be interpretive in a few ways...

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post #1332 of 3019 Old 04-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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^^^ditto! that's why I asked

Thanks Damelon for the fast reply.
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post #1333 of 3019 Old 04-02-2012, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad I could help then! At least you won't have to suffer the paint matching headache. That claret color is not an easy one!
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post #1334 of 3019 Old 04-04-2012, 01:33 PM
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Damelon - You had a sketch of your room showing the riser depth at 7'-6". It's hard to tell but is that dimension from the face of the column, the face of the wall treatments, or the drywall?
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post #1335 of 3019 Old 04-04-2012, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Damelon - You had a sketch of your room showing the riser depth at 7'-6". It's hard to tell but is that dimension from the face of the column, the face of the wall treatments, or the drywall?

Without looking at the sketch, I believe it was from the back wall (Drywall) to the front of the riser.
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post #1336 of 3019 Old 04-04-2012, 03:28 PM
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I assume you have plenty of room with the chairs fully reclined? Maybe not enough for someone to walk by but enough so the second row feet aren't at the head of the first row.
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post #1337 of 3019 Old 04-04-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vanice View Post

I assume you have plenty of room with the chairs fully reclined? Maybe not enough for someone to walk by but enough so the second row feet aren't at the head of the first row.

Actually, it's probably the smallest depth it could be at. These chairs dont really recline backwards very much (They mostly slide down and forwards) but if both the front and rear rows are reclined, (or maybe its if the rear is reclined and the front is not) some feet in the back row are close the tops of heads in the front row.

The reason it gets that close is that there are 4" treatments on the back wall plus the column depth, which was put on additional 2" spacers so that it looked like the rest of the walls. So out of that 7' 6", I probably lost about a foot of that space since the row of chairs is wider than the space between the rear columns so needs to be placed in front of the rear columns.

And that riser depth was a complete guess when we were doing initial planning. So I really couldn't ask for a closer call than that. The room dimensions worked out perfectly, to be honest.
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post #1338 of 3019 Old 04-04-2012, 06:50 PM
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I see. I have been looking at my own layout and wanting to maximize space in the back row. But I also do not want my front row in the screen. That 7'-6" dimension looks like a good benchmark. Thanks for the info.
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post #1339 of 3019 Old 04-05-2012, 06:14 PM
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I just have to drop a quick note of thanks as today I finished installing the soffit in my theater (light tray is next) that I dare say is an almost exact replica of these soffits (went 14" wide instead of 16" on the soffit box due to room width.) Anyway, I followed this thread to the T as well as Big's prep instructions for MDF and it actually looks like I know what I'm doing. Amazing. No, seriously.

For anyone using sanding sealer for the first time (like me), this stuff is basically really runny, liquid super glue. I had a runaway drop of it land on my arm and thought nothing of it and then ten minutes later it's EXACTLY like when you get superglue on you. Post-shower? Yep, still there... covering at least 20 arm hairs so I'm not touching it. I'll wait it out.

On the light trays, I had HD cut me some 5.5" strips of 3/4 MDF this morning so I can get cracking after I get this mouse paint up tomorrow morning. Since the bottoms are 5.5" wide and they attach to the middle of the soffit's outer 2x2, am I correct in assuming the plywood blocking you used is a 5" by 5" square of 3/4 ply? I bought some 3/4 ply today as well but I'll rip those myself since I didn't know.

Thanks again guys... my room is finally looking like a theater and everyone who sees it will think I've taken a freaking carpentry class.
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post #1340 of 3019 Old 04-05-2012, 07:02 PM
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5x5 doesn't sound right.
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post #1341 of 3019 Old 04-07-2012, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

5x5 doesn't sound right.

The bottom piece of our light tray was 5.5" wide, and then the vertical piece of the light tray was attached to the end of that, making it appear longer (if viewing from the bottom). The "Blocking" we used was 5" high by 4" deep or so. Keep in mind that the bottom 2x2 of the soffit had 3/4" MDF on the outside of it (facing the middle of the room) and we went 1.5" overlap of the bottom piece of the light tray (to cover the 3/4" mdf and 3/4" of the 2x2) That left 4 inches of the light tray bottom sticking out from the soffit itself. The vertical piece of MDF facing on the inside of the light tray was connected to the end of the horizontal piece, so it didn't add to any space inside of the light tray itself.

You might also notice in some of the pictures that we used another kind of blocking where the MDF seams joined which was just a flat piece of plywood on the inside of the light tray seam, which allowed us to keep all of the pieces even and flush.
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post #1342 of 3019 Old 04-07-2012, 01:07 PM
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Yeah, that makes sense. I was eyeballing it while trying to hold an eight foot long strip on the soffit bottom with one hand and the recessed light in the other and came to 5x5 as a guess so now I know it's 5x4... thank you.

Last questions and I promise I'll leave you alone on the soffit.

1. How much space is between each block on the soffit? I was going to go about every 32" but it looks like you may have gone farther. I'm worried about sagging.

2. On the 5.5" bottoms, did you round over the edge facing the room? I can't tell from the pics but thought that might look nice.

Thanks again!
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post #1343 of 3019 Old 04-07-2012, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, that makes sense. I was eyeballing it while trying to hold an eight foot long strip on the soffit bottom with one hand and the recessed light in the other and came to 5x5 as a guess so now I know it's 5x4... thank you.

Last questions and I promise I'll leave you alone on the soffit.

1. How much space is between each block on the soffit? I was going to go about every 32" but it looks like you may have gone farther. I'm worried about sagging.

2. On the 5.5" bottoms, did you round over the edge facing the room? I can't tell from the pics but thought that might look nice.

Thanks again!

1) There was no specific measurement for the blocking. We knew were our lights would be, and just made sure the blocking wasn't there. It was pretty much eyeballed since it's nonvisual.

2) The 5.5" bottoms aren't on the edge. The interior vertical piece of MDF which faces the middle of the room covers the end of the 5.5" bottom. That piece is rounded on the bottom edge. The top edge was not rounded since it would be covered with 2 more MDF layers to make the tiered look.
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post #1344 of 3019 Old 04-07-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

WEEKEND REPORT - ALL ABOUT FABRIC PANELS - Part 2


moved to the wall, you can see with fastened 2 inch furring strips to the walls to hold the panels, these were 2x3s cut down and attached with 3 1/2 inch screws.



Did you guys put 2" furring behind columns or make columns 2" longer in depth or is there 1" less exposed of the column?

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post #1345 of 3019 Old 04-08-2012, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Did you guys put 2" furring behind columns or make columns 2" longer in depth or is there 1" less exposed of the column?

Actually, both. Since the side walls are 1" treatments and the back wall is a 4" treatment. We made all of the main parts of the column the same size. Mounted the two rear columns on 2" furring strips. But there is still a 1" difference, so the wrap-around ribbing is 1" shorter on the sides so that the 2" deep panels fit. Visually they look the same, though, even though the rear ones are 1" more recessed.
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post #1346 of 3019 Old 04-08-2012, 07:44 AM
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Awesome possum.

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post #1347 of 3019 Old 04-15-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

That left 4 inches of the light tray bottom sticking out from the soffit itself.

The first time I read this part, I thought to myself, "the lights are 3-inch recessed lights so that leaves me plenty of wiggle room."

Fast forward to today and I've got the entire light tray up around all but the front of the room and THEN I grab the light I picked up at Lowes last night for a little test fitting. I probably don't have to tell you or Big this, but it requires a 3-3/8 hole!

You guys are obviously pros but I'm just a copycat so 1/4" on either side is getting into some precision work for me. Multiply that by 17 holes and there's no way I won't mess this up.

Is there a trick to doing this right the first time or is literally just mark the middle of the board and go for broke? Seems like leaving only a 1/4 inch on the outside edge could lead to breakage which I'm guessing is why you waited till the face was glued on before you drilled for the cans? More meat that way?
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post #1348 of 3019 Old 04-15-2012, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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We didn't just mark the middle. Since we knew the front MDF face was 3/4" in, and we knew we had 4 in after that, we basically marked holes 2-3/4" in (If memory serves) This doesnt make it exactly center of the entire bottom face of the light tray visually, but it fit in the space provided. (The specific mini-lights we purchased) Yeah we did put them in after the face of the light tray was on, which made the room to work with very tight against the ceiling. Heck we even painted it before drilling the holes because we didnt want to bother painting around the light cans later.

We knew it would be tight fitting, and we followed Sandman's light tray example. His example used small specialty lights that he found locally near his house. But we were fortunate to find the lights we did at lowes because I dont know if any others would even fit in that space. You would have to make the light tray bigger, or put the lights into the normal soffit space instead of an interior tray.
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post #1349 of 3019 Old 04-15-2012, 09:33 PM
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I had to order the 3 3/8 hole saw on-line. While Lowe's sells a bunch of those lights they don't stock that size hole saw. Drill a pilot hole first, then be sure to use a corded drill, The beefier the better and if it has a side handle it will help. Worked on a light tray project today with cherry veneer plywood and we cut the holes before we installed the pre-stained boards.
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post #1350 of 3019 Old 04-16-2012, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
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The beefier the better and if it has a side handle it will help.

+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).
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