The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 46 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1351 of 3019 Old 04-16-2012, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).

The corded drill was a big must too. Any time we were trying to use hole saws the cordless drills couldn't cut it when it came to pure torque. We had to resort to the corded drills several times where the cordless fell short.
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post #1352 of 3019 Old 04-16-2012, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I had to order the 3 3/8 hole saw on-line. While Lowe's sells a bunch of those lights they don't stock that size hole saw.

Well what do you know. I bought the Milwaukee "Master Electrician's Hole Saw Kit" in the beginning of my build assuming it would have every size hole I'd ever need. Just checked it for a 3-3/8" and... nadda. Grrrrr.....
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post #1353 of 3019 Old 04-16-2012, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post


+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).

I have heard stories where guys using a corded drill over head without side handle have actually even broken their wrist. Crazy
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post #1354 of 3019 Old 04-16-2012, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post


I have heard stories where guys using a corded drill over head without side handle have actually even broken their wrist. Crazy

Ouch. My worst experience was crouching up in the attic and drilling a hole to run some romex down to a new switch for a ceiling fan. The drill bit binded into the wood and swung around to hit me right in the mouth. I was bleeding pretty bad.

Plus it didn't help that it was about 130 degrees up there. That was the absolute worst project I have ever done. I still shiver thinking about all that insulation.

My advice......use a handle.

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post #1355 of 3019 Old 04-17-2012, 05:04 AM
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I start drilling my holes with the saw in reverse. That torque is amazing.
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post #1356 of 3019 Old 04-17-2012, 05:43 AM
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Must be some West Virginia thing. The rest of us use a drill to drill holes.

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post #1357 of 3019 Old 04-17-2012, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Ouch. My worst experience was crouching up in the attic and drilling a hole to run some romex down to a new switch for a ceiling fan. The drill bit binded into the wood and swung around to hit me right in the mouth. I was bleeding pretty bad.

Plus it didn't help that it was about 130 degrees up there. That was the absolute worst project I have ever done. I still shiver thinking about all that insulation.

My advice......use a handle.

I've heard horror stories of people getting knocked in the head (or smacking their head hard on a support beam/roof truss) in the attic and passing out from the blow and super hot air. One or the other and they would have been fine, but both together can be more dangerous than most people think. Of course, I've gone up in my attic without anyone knowing many times. Hmmm. I wonder if my wife would ever look up there if I went missing. Probably not. She would close up the steps and not think about it.
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post #1358 of 3019 Old 04-17-2012, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah the attic in the summer is REALLY bad. The HVAC guys in this area will usually not schedule afternoon appts for an attic unit.

As for the drill stories, Yeah I've seen it happen. When it binds and gets stuck the torque can really smack you. It's locked and hurt my wrist but luckily I've never had more than some lasting soreness from it. Nothing like bones breaking or bloodletting!

So I moved my HTPC into my unfinished storage area this weekend and out of my equipment room. We rarely have been running the HVAC at all, so if I keep the door closed in there, the computer lets out a LOT of heat that can't really escape. Now that it's in the storage room behind the equipment room, it is constantly cool, I can't hear it at all in the movie room (you barely could before but still) and I can keep the equipment room door at all times. Now it is really dead quiet in there. You would sort of have to see it to understand the layout. So my NAS and HTPC are both side by side near the breaker boxes, both on UPS units, and nice and cool.
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post #1359 of 3019 Old 04-24-2012, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofer amps will finally be shipping out today to Axiom. That means I'll have to disassemble my screen wall!

Theater room will be out of service until they return. Good time to paint the door I guess hehe
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post #1360 of 3019 Old 04-24-2012, 12:28 PM
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You mean after I'm done with my room, there will be times I have to do MORE work?! GUUUHHHhhhh!

I wanted to jump and say thanks for all the great documentation. Like many many others, it's been very useful (and entertaining) to watch!

Thanks!

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post #1361 of 3019 Old 04-24-2012, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

You mean after I'm done with my room, there will be times I have to do MORE work?! GUUUHHHhhhh!

Not necessarily! The biggest issue people have is that they put up their projector before they are completely "done". At which time, all other work stops.

I've known I had an issue with my volume knobs on both my amps for some time now but I haven't bothered to ship them in until now.

You're welcome on the thread. That's why we all do them. Hopefully it makes life easier for someone else later. Almost everything I've learned has been from other people's threads. This website/forum is awesome.


Completely Unrelated: Have any of you seen the trailers for Ridley Scott's upcoming Alien prequel, "Prometheus". I'm a big sci-fi nut, and I am really looking forward to this movie. For some strange reason the latest viral video "Happy Birthday David" has really hooked me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWmbqH_z7jM It just reminds me of 2001/2010 where dave bowman or dr. chandra are talking to Hal9000. Michael Fassbender really does feel like an android.
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post #1362 of 3019 Old 04-24-2012, 03:07 PM
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Good time to paint the door I guess hehe

Pictures! Pictures!
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post #1363 of 3019 Old 04-25-2012, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Pictures! Pictures!

Wait and see!

Disassembled my screenwall last night and took out the subwoofer amps to ship out to Axiom today. Since I have probably 2 weekends, it would be a good time to take off the door and paint it.
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post #1364 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.


Hey Big;

So I'm finally to the point where I can add the MDF to my door but I've got another question for you regarding the finishing. I went to Home Depot today to pick up the sanding sealer and was a little surprised by the price. So it got me thinking-could I do two coats of an oil based primer to seal the MDF instead? I've got a little of the Kilz brand left. Will it seal it well enough to prevent the water based latex paint from causing the MDF to swell?

Thanks!

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post #1365 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 01:45 PM
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post #1366 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 01:52 PM
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I'm not Big, but in my experience solvent-based Kilz will work fine. Let the first coat of Kilz dry, then sand just enough to knock down the nibs. Another coat of Kilz, sand lightly, and you should be ready for paint.

If you've used part of this gallon (or quart or whatever) of Kilz already, you may want to strain the Kilz before you use it. Blobs of partly-dried stuff can really mess up a finish.

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post #1367 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 02:46 PM
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Thanks Dwight.

I'm going to give it a try with the Kilz Original. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

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post #1368 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Hey Big;

So I'm finally to the point where I can add the MDF to my door but I've got another question for you regarding the finishing. I went to Home Depot today to pick up the sanding sealer and was a little surprised by the price. So it got me thinking-could I do two coats of an oil based primer to seal the MDF instead? I've got a little of the Kilz brand left. Will it seal it well enough to prevent the water based latex paint from causing the MDF to swell?

Thanks!

I got freaked by the price too and bought a quart hoping it would stretch. I did my entire soffit, two coats, and it only took half a quart. It's real thin (almost water-like) so it goes a long way.
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post #1369 of 3019 Old 04-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post


I got freaked by the price too and bought a quart hoping it would stretch. I did my entire soffit, two coats, and it only took half a quart. It's real thin (almost water-like) so it goes a long way.

That's good to know that it goes a long way, but I only need it for the door so I'd have a ton left over.

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post #1370 of 3019 Old 04-28-2012, 05:15 PM
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Damelon,

If I recall, you did the rope light twice around with some clips and now that I'm holding one of these ropes, I notice it puts off a little heat.

Is it safe to say there's no worry about them melting together? I swear I've seen a melted mess of rope light on the Internet but I think it was because the person plugged it in while the whole spool was still bound together which would obviously generate significantly more heat than this.

Did you use the type of clamps that I see holding my copper water lines to the floor joists? The clips (and their screws) for these lights were so small there's no way I'd be able to get a hand in there now but I'm worried about the rope resting on top of the halogen cans.

EDIT: Like these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...PYSN579JAK7CTC
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post #1371 of 3019 Old 04-29-2012, 02:04 AM
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Cable on a spool can act like a small coil so will generate heat. It's always best to unroll it, especially if there's a lot of current going through it (like with an extension lead).

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post #1372 of 3019 Old 05-03-2012, 04:58 PM
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Bass traps in the soffit... you did a layer of pink stuff insulation and then a layer of cotton/denim insulation. Nobody around here sells the cotton stuff, so is it cool to just double up the pink or should I drop the dough ordering the denim online?
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post #1373 of 3019 Old 05-03-2012, 06:53 PM
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Damelon, I'm really enjoying your build. Really looks professional. Keep up the hard work..... and the pictures.

"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson

 

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post #1374 of 3019 Old 05-03-2012, 08:05 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Not necessarily! The biggest issue people have is that they put up their projector before they are completely "done". At which time, all other work stops.

I did the smart thing and have my amp far away from the theater room...so even though my projector is mounted and my speakers are installed, work can continue due to no sound during movies.

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post #1375 of 3019 Old 05-05-2012, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Unacceptable - Yes I just used Hanger clamps. I only went around the room one time, not twice. Though many people double up their rope light. I never noticed any heat myself.

Soffts & Cotton Insulation. My soffts were mostly for the HVAC, but yeah some of them were for bass absorption. I had to order the "cotton roll" stuff from home depot, they didnt have it in stock. And I just lined the bottom of the soffits with that. I know it's sort cheesy and half-assed, but hey. If you did normal fiberglass insulation make sure it isnt faced.

Willscam - Thanks for the compliments! I consider my build "done", yet the thread lives on! Yeah I still do a few minor things here and there but the construction has been done for months now.

cybrsage - LOL, that's a different way of going about that!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Actual Work Progress - As the screenwall is currently dismantled while I wait for my two subwoofer amps to come back from Axiom, I took it upon myself to do some door painting. Finally took the door off and painted the outside that Antique Ruby color, as well as gave the entrance door frame a second coat of paint! I will actually take some pictures once I get a 2nd coat of paint on the door and have it back on the hinges.
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post #1376 of 3019 Old 05-12-2012, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Update! First here are my poor subwoofers with the amps removed. "If they only had a heart...."

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post #1377 of 3019 Old 05-12-2012, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is the doorframe now that it is painted. Eventually it will be surrounded by a light beige stone on this whole wall, so I was skeptical about the color and still am a bit unsure, but it is the same paint as IN the theater.



And the door, which got its final paint of coat today and isn't dry yet. Hence why it is on the floor and a little shiny

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post #1378 of 3019 Old 05-12-2012, 12:03 PM
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[quote=damelon;22015333]final paint of coat[\\QUOTE]

Personally if I didn't like the color of a coat, I would just exchange it for a different color.

I think beige stone around that will look sweet. Makes me want to start on the stone outside my entry door.
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post #1379 of 3019 Old 05-12-2012, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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[quote=Brad Horstkotte;22015445]
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

final paint of coat[\\QUOTE]

Personally if I didn't like the color of a coat, I would just exchange it for a different color.

I think beige stone around that will look sweet. Makes me want to start on the stone outside my entry door.

Heh yeah. I'm just not good at visualizing something in advance. Hard to picture the stone with that. But I'm sure it will be just fine.
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post #1380 of 3019 Old 05-12-2012, 01:34 PM
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Stupid question (probably)... I'm looking at theater seats and I like the idea of doing them similar to your setup with a row of 2 in front of a row of 3 but in the sofa configuration for the rear row of 3.

Can someone tell me why a row of 3 is several hundred less than a row of 3 sofa which has two less armrests? Doesn't make sense to me. The ones I'm looking at are on sale for $1200 for a row of three but the sofa configuration is over $2200!

I'm wondering if you can buy the regular row of three and take the armrests off the middle?
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