The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 47 - AVS Forum
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post #1381 of 2436 Old 05-03-2012, 08:05 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Not necessarily! The biggest issue people have is that they put up their projector before they are completely "done". At which time, all other work stops.

I did the smart thing and have my amp far away from the theater room...so even though my projector is mounted and my speakers are installed, work can continue due to no sound during movies.

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post #1382 of 2436 Old 05-05-2012, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Unacceptable - Yes I just used Hanger clamps. I only went around the room one time, not twice. Though many people double up their rope light. I never noticed any heat myself.

Soffts & Cotton Insulation. My soffts were mostly for the HVAC, but yeah some of them were for bass absorption. I had to order the "cotton roll" stuff from home depot, they didnt have it in stock. And I just lined the bottom of the soffits with that. I know it's sort cheesy and half-assed, but hey. If you did normal fiberglass insulation make sure it isnt faced.

Willscam - Thanks for the compliments! I consider my build "done", yet the thread lives on! Yeah I still do a few minor things here and there but the construction has been done for months now.

cybrsage - LOL, that's a different way of going about that!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Actual Work Progress - As the screenwall is currently dismantled while I wait for my two subwoofer amps to come back from Axiom, I took it upon myself to do some door painting. Finally took the door off and painted the outside that Antique Ruby color, as well as gave the entrance door frame a second coat of paint! I will actually take some pictures once I get a 2nd coat of paint on the door and have it back on the hinges.
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post #1383 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Update! First here are my poor subwoofers with the amps removed. "If they only had a heart...."

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post #1384 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is the doorframe now that it is painted. Eventually it will be surrounded by a light beige stone on this whole wall, so I was skeptical about the color and still am a bit unsure, but it is the same paint as IN the theater.



And the door, which got its final paint of coat today and isn't dry yet. Hence why it is on the floor and a little shiny

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post #1385 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 12:03 PM
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[quote=damelon;22015333]final paint of coat[\\QUOTE]

Personally if I didn't like the color of a coat, I would just exchange it for a different color.

I think beige stone around that will look sweet. Makes me want to start on the stone outside my entry door.
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post #1386 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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[quote=Brad Horstkotte;22015445]
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

final paint of coat[\\QUOTE]

Personally if I didn't like the color of a coat, I would just exchange it for a different color.

I think beige stone around that will look sweet. Makes me want to start on the stone outside my entry door.

Heh yeah. I'm just not good at visualizing something in advance. Hard to picture the stone with that. But I'm sure it will be just fine.
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post #1387 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 01:34 PM
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Stupid question (probably)... I'm looking at theater seats and I like the idea of doing them similar to your setup with a row of 2 in front of a row of 3 but in the sofa configuration for the rear row of 3.

Can someone tell me why a row of 3 is several hundred less than a row of 3 sofa which has two less armrests? Doesn't make sense to me. The ones I'm looking at are on sale for $1200 for a row of three but the sofa configuration is over $2200!

I'm wondering if you can buy the regular row of three and take the armrests off the middle?
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post #1388 of 2436 Old 05-12-2012, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post

Stupid question (probably)... I'm looking at theater seats and I like the idea of doing them similar to your setup with a row of 2 in front of a row of 3 but in the sofa configuration for the rear row of 3.

Can someone tell me why a row of 3 is several hundred less than a row of 3 sofa which has two less armrests? Doesn't make sense to me. The ones I'm looking at are on sale for $1200 for a row of three but the sofa configuration is over $2200!

I'm wondering if you can buy the regular row of three and take the armrests off the middle?

It has everything to do with the model chairs you buy, and a little of where you buy them from. Some manufacturers make chairs in only one configuration, so modifying that costs extra. So they have to disassemble parts and re-wrap the leather. There's also the fact that the "Normal" setup of seats is with armrests between each seat. So those are what is in the most common, and they have the most supply of. Anything outside of that requires them to be smarter about your order, make sure you have all of the right chairs, etc. More hassle for them. One of the guys I talked to told me I could remove the armrests myself if I wanted, but I wouldn't be comfortable trying that. Basically, a row of 3 seats with armrests between is probably the most commonly purchased setup, and applies to most people, so it's usually the cheapest option. Others come in certain configurations, like Left Arm Only, Right Arm Only, No Arms, Both Arms. And a no arm one is cheaper than a two arm one. Thus, a sofa configuration is cheaper. Somtimes they don't even care either way. They just care how many total "Seats" there are, and that is your cost.
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post #1389 of 2436 Old 05-13-2012, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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post #1390 of 2436 Old 05-13-2012, 03:07 PM
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post #1391 of 2436 Old 05-13-2012, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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You never thought it would happen, did you?
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post #1392 of 2436 Old 05-13-2012, 08:48 PM
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You posted in my thread the other day and I decided to check out your thread. Honest to God my jaw dropped when I saw your theater and I will explain why. I have had one of your pics as the backdrop of my Zapitti app for the Dune for the past 1 1/2 years. You were one of the builders that inspired me to start my own theater. Thank you so much for sharing your creation with us and helping me to steal ideas from you.
I am sorry but as soon as I finish my build I will be replacing your Zapitti pic with one of my theater
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post #1393 of 2436 Old 05-14-2012, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fibertech View Post

You posted in my thread the other day and I decided to check out your thread. Honest to God my jaw dropped when I saw your theater and I will explain why. I have had one of your pics as the backdrop of my Zapitti app for the Dune for the past 1 1/2 years. You were one of the builders that inspired me to start my own theater. Thank you so much for sharing your creation with us and helping me to steal ideas from you.
I am sorry but as soon as I finish my build I will be replacing your Zapitti pic with one of my theater

Thanks for the compliment! Though I'm not sure you were using my pics, I think you might have been using SMX/Sandman's if you have had them for 1.5 years. My build was inspired by his! I'm only guessing this because I didn't even start my theater build until the last week of last July. Glad to see you will be moving on with your own pics soon!
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post #1394 of 2436 Old 05-14-2012, 01:39 PM
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damelon,

I'm planning out my theater right now and I noticed that your construction is very similar to what mine is going to be like. I am going to have foundation on two sides where I am going to put the framing with a gap, and isolating the framing from the ceiling with isolation clips. I noticed that you didn't use clips & channel on the walls and only on the ceiling...I was thinking of doing the same. How well has that worked out for you?
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post #1395 of 2436 Old 05-14-2012, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ozziegt View Post

damelon,

I'm planning out my theater right now and I noticed that your construction is very similar to what mine is going to be like. I am going to have foundation on two sides where I am going to put the framing with a gap, and isolating the framing from the ceiling with isolation clips. I noticed that you didn't use clips & channel on the walls and only on the ceiling...I was thinking of doing the same. How well has that worked out for you?

It worked great for me. There was really no reason to use clips and channel on any of my walls since the walls themselves were decoupled from the rest of the house. Had I used the existing walls, then isolating with clips and channel on the walls would have been an option. Actually it ending up being very easy to put up thank's to Big's laser level. The thing could project lines on the ceiling.
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post #1396 of 2436 Old 05-14-2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

It worked great for me. There was really no reason to use clips and channel on any of my walls since the walls themselves were decoupled from the rest of the house. Had I used the existing walls, then isolating with clips and channel on the walls would have been an option. Actually it ending up being very easy to put up thank's to Big's laser level. The thing could project lines on the ceiling.

Cool...yeah two of my walls are going to be decoupled, and then 2 walls and the ceiling are shared with the house / neighbor's wall so I will use C&Ch on those 3 faces.
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post #1397 of 2436 Old 05-14-2012, 05:07 PM
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Hey damelon;

I'm sure this was mentioned before, but what carpet did you get and where did you get it from?

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post #1398 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey damelon;

I'm sure this was mentioned before, but what carpet did you get and where did you get it from?

I got it from Lowes. The rest I dont remember so well
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post #1399 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 01:04 PM
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I swear I try to reverse engineer these things in my head for a while before bugging you guys but this one is a real head scratcher for me.

In the pic below, how are these boards with the red arrows screwed/nailed into the tall plywood? There's no way you can get a drill down there on the inside and I don't see any toe nailing.

Right now I'm guessing you built the stage in two halves (left and right) with each half consisting of the rear rectangular box and then everything in front of that. That would allow for the front half to be light enough that you could set it up on the rear part and screw from underneath- ahhh hell, I don't know but I'm guessing this is going to be one of those "duh" moments.

Thanks as always!

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post #1400 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post

I swear I try to reverse engineer these things in my head for a while before bugging you guys but this one is a real head scratcher for me.

In the pic below, how are these boards with the red arrows screwed/nailed into the tall plywood? There's no way you can get a drill down there on the inside and I don't see any toe nailing.

Right now I'm guessing you built the stage in two halves (left and right) with each half consisting of the rear rectangular box and then everything in front of that. That would allow for the front half to be light enough that you could set it up on the rear part and screw from underneath- ahhh hell, I don't know but I'm guessing this is going to be one of those "duh" moments.

Thanks as always!


looks like they attached the 2x4's on to the plywood then made the bend and attached it to the 2x10's notice the nails to the 2x10's are to the right of the 2x4's
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post #1401 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

looks like they attached the 2x4's on to the plywood then made the bend and attached it to the 2x10's notice the nails to the 2x10's are to the right of the 2x4's

If you had me guess I'd say we used BIG's cordless drill (Since it has a very shallow depth) and screwed some screws in there. Keep i mind they don't ALL need to be connected, at the least only the ends do. (The sides are screwed into that side-block where the ones near the center were likely screwed in from the back where there is plenty of room. At the minimum, the places where the two outer plywood pieces join are the most important)

And you are correct that we did the back box first. Pretty much all of the 2x10s were set up. Then the 2x10s that went in the center of the higher curve were put in. Then we cut shorter 2x10s and slid them behind the plywood until it bumped out the way we waned it to. Then we made the reverse side copy. We just cut the remainder of the 2x10 pieces in the big arc so that they would fit behind the plywood, and moved them right or left until they fit the space properly while retaining the right arc.
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post #1402 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
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I got it from Lowes. The rest I dont remember so well

Thanks damelon. Your carpet looks very similar to what bzbase put in his room (perhaps even the same one). His was Stainmaster Silver Lake, also from Lowes.

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post #1403 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 06:45 PM
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Yes Stainmaster Silver Lake. The sample looks really dark in the store.
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post #1404 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 06:48 PM
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Yes Stainmaster Silver Lake. The sample looks really dark in the store.

Thanks BIG!

Could you comment on the softness of the carpet damelon? For instance, would it be comfortable to lay on while watching a movie?

The rest of the family is concerned about overflow seating since our room is so small and they want to make sure it is comfortable.

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post #1405 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 06:55 PM
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Snickers, the secret weapon, put the drill bit directly in the impact driver, skip the bit holder.

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post #1406 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

We just cut the remainder of the 2x10 pieces in the big arc so that they would fit behind the plywood, and moved them right or left until they fit the space properly while retaining the right arc.

I didn't see any of this magical curved plywood at my box store so I'm thinking two layers of 1/4" instead. Anyone think that's a dumb idea?
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post #1407 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 07:18 PM
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You can bend thicker stuff, two layers is always a good idea. The magical curved plywood is the junk nobody will buy, Your local store manager may run a tight ship and keep it out of sight.
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post #1408 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 07:48 PM
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Snickers, the secret weapon, put the drill bit directly in the impact driver, skip the bit holder.



guess you will have to show me in person when that time comes
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post #1409 of 2436 Old 05-15-2012, 08:00 PM
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Snickers, the secret weapon...

Am I the only one who read this, not realizing that Snickers refers to the username and imagined that BIG really gets a chuckle out of not using the bit holder - like he's some kind of crazy rebel?
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post #1410 of 2436 Old 05-16-2012, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Thanks BIG!

Could you comment on the softness of the carpet damelon? For instance, would it be comfortable to lay on while watching a movie?

The rest of the family is concerned about overflow seating since our room is so small and they want to make sure it is comfortable.

The carpet itself is fine to lay on as long as you have decent padding. The issue isn't so much softness as it is more that it is bumpy due to the texture. Not that most people would even care.
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