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post #181 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 05:59 AM
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The column and light tray mock ups look great great guys.. cool design.

Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.

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post #182 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.

Most Faux wood finishing involves multiple layers of color with one color showing through another in varied levels.

For my mock up I coated the MDF with two coats of sanding sealer with a quick sanding to knock down any high points, Then I grabbed these



Put on two coats of the red with a paper towel

Then I mixed some red and black in a disposable cereal bowl and wiped it over the red with a paper towel.



Later when dry I sealed it with a couple coats of satin Poly.
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post #183 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 06:54 AM
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taking our time with this part of the project to make sure we know exactly what we're going to do before we do it. Hence the lack of actual building updates.

MY philosophy EXACTLY.

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post #184 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 07:14 AM
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post #185 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 07:28 AM
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Wow! The ultimate in being LOGANED!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!
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post #186 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 08:51 AM
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Self-LOGANING is not a new phenomenon. But it IS the ULTIMATE in LOGANINNG.

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post #187 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I like how we are going from a record breaking pace to ultimate LOGAN in the span of a few days! So fickle!!! As soon as BIG and I can get some time scheduled where we are both free we will get these light trays done.
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post #188 of 3019 Old 08-31-2011, 09:51 AM
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Just think of it as half-time.
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post #189 of 3019 Old 09-07-2011, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Update (9-7-11) - Got the primer on the tray ceiling done and the first coat of black finished. One thing you immediately notice with the flat black is the seams between the MDF and the ceiling, as well as the screws. The plan is to put some plain trim around the border joints where the MDF meets the ceiling.

This weekend the plan is for BIG and I to put up the light trays. So there should be some new and updated photos by the end of the weekend.

A bunch of supplies were ordered and started to come in last week. Ordered a bunch of dimmers & black conversion kits. A ton of black recepticle outlets and & covers, the middle atlantic rack + black smoked plexiglass front door, some long mono 3.5mm cables for my subwoofer trigger ports, and received my inlet/output plug for the projector.

I also got a good deal on another single axiom M80 speaker, so I now have 3. This will be a much better setup for an AT screen than I had before, as I will now have 3 M80 towers across the front, instead of the old smaller center. This one is black where the others I have are wood veneered, but behind the screen it makes no difference!
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post #190 of 3019 Old 09-07-2011, 07:36 AM
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Would love to hear those M80s. In my smaller room I'm probably going with M60s.

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post #191 of 3019 Old 09-07-2011, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Would love to hear those M80s. In my smaller room I'm probably going with M60s.

I love them. Once the room is done I'll make sure to have an open house if you would like a demo. In my last house with those speakers, that dave matthews radio city blu-ray was one of the best things I had ever heard audio wise. What a sound stage.
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post #192 of 3019 Old 09-07-2011, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post
....dave matthews radio city blu-ray was one of the best things I had ever heard audio wise. What a sound stage....
Too bad dave likes to hear himself talk. Totally effes up that BD IMHO.

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post #193 of 3019 Old 09-07-2011, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Too bad dave likes to hear himself talk. Totally effes up that BD IMHO.
I can't disagree there at all. He sounds like a bumbling idiot when he speaks, no matter what the topic. Usually it doesn't go on for very long before he gets into the next song though. I was commenting more on just the music audio quality, not the disc as a whole.
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post #194 of 3019 Old 09-09-2011, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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2nd coat of flat black done on the ceiling. Ready to put up the trays tomorrow!
--------------
BIG's post below

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Damelon and I worked hard on his theater this weekend. Just a preview now the details will be posted Monday AM.

We took a pile of MDF strips.



We built light trays on the inside edge of the soffits.




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post #195 of 3019 Old 09-11-2011, 07:18 PM
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Damelon and I worked hard on his theater this weekend. Just a preview now the details will be posted Monday AM.

We took a pile of MDF strips.



We built light trays on the inside edge of the soffits.



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post #196 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 07:07 AM
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That looks beautiful! How far out does the stage and the curved ceiling project into the room?

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post #197 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

That looks beautiful! How far out does the stage and the curved ceiling project into the room?

The front corners of the stage are 4'6" from the front wall. The curve in the center comes out a few inches past that. The "ladder" portion of the soffit matches up directly with the screen-wall. The front face of the screenwall will be 2'4" from the front wall. I'll have to go re-measure the big curved mdf piece, but the curve portion I believe was about 11 1/2" inches radius or so, with 5 1/2" flat depth behind that (So about 16-17" from the center of the curve to the back of the MDF, but again, I might be off by an inch or two). We then recessed that whole piece 2 1/4" back for screw leverage (The rest of the light trays were 1 1/2 in, covering the 3/4" mdf and half of the 2x2s on the ladder soffit frame) but we pushed it back the whole way on the front since the screen wall will hide the inconsistency and it would give more leverage for screws. You will see a lot better when BIG posts his pictures of the light trays being built.
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post #198 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 10:13 AM
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LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS
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post #199 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS


What can I say, I am spoiled, and in this case, so are you!

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post #200 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

The front corners of the stage are 4'6" from the front wall. The curve in the center comes out a few inches past that. The "ladder" portion of the soffit matches up directly with the screen-wall. The front face of the screenwall will be 2'4" from the front wall.


Thanks for the info, that might be bad news for me. I just got my framing completed yesterday and I will only have about 28" of depth for my stage, about half of what you have.

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post #201 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Thanks for the info, that might be bad news for me. I just got my framing completed yesterday and I will only have about 28" of depth for my stage, about half of what you have.

Well that all depends. My first theater room had a stage too, about 24" or so deep, but I had no screen wall. You need about 2' of space behind most screen walls (give or take a few inches depending on speakers). Then after that all of the space is nothing but visual eye candy. So this shouldn't be a problem for you no matter what you do, it only might make a difference in the appearance you are expecting in front of your wall if you DO have a screen wall.
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post #202 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's

The light tray design from a previous post.

The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.

Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.

The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.

next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge

Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.

You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.

Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.

Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.

Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.

The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.

Done

I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS

Wow, this is really looking good. Thanks for sharing all the details and posting pics...
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post #203 of 3019 Old 09-12-2011, 08:10 PM
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Looking good damelon and Big.

I was initially concerned about the heat from those halogen cans, but am happy to report that it hasn't been an issue at all in my place (perhaps because they don't stay on for long).
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post #204 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Looking good damelon and Big.

I was initially concerned about the heat from those halogen cans, but am happy to report that it hasn't been an issue at all in my place (perhaps because they don't stay on for long).

When I had originally thought out how the light tray might be designed, I was worried about it too, but given that the lights are small and the top of the light tray is open, I'm not worried about heat at all. Since it is not enclosed it doesn't even need insulation.

I have boxes arriving daily. Outlets, dimmers, wall plates, equipment rack, equipment rack door, rope lights, cotton, 703, HVAC grilles, etc. I have to carry a box or two downstairs every time I come home.

At this point I think the only things I don't have ordered are the doors to the room, the projector, and the screen. The only things I need to still purchase outside of all of that is the wood to make the fabric panels.
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post #205 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:13 AM
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Prototype Speaker grill cover.

Damelon and I have been kicking around ideas on how to build a 46 inch tall 18 x 10 speaker grill cover that would provide the minimum speaker interference possible.

Using perforated metal was one idea that we considered but didn't pursue. Putting a 2x2 at the front edge is a pretty big obstacle. So what about some 1/2 inch iron pipe?

Here is the prototype:







Anyone have any other suggestions?
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post #206 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Prototype Speaker grill cover.

Damelon and I have been kicking around ideas on how to build a 46 inch tall 18 x 10 speaker grill cover that would provide the minimum speaker interference possible.

Using perforated metal was one idea that we considered but didn't pursue. Putting a 2x2 at the front edge is a pretty big obstacle. So what about some 1/2 inch iron pipe?

Here is the prototype:







Anyone have any other suggestions?


Brilliant! Just like I pictured your idea. I agree, this is much simpler and more elegant than the metal grille. Wouldn't a 1/2" wooden dowel rod be easier and cheaper?

Last edited by damelon; 08-18-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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post #207 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:23 AM
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Another good idea of Big's that I'm going to shamelessly copy.

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post #208 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
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Wouldn't a 1/2" wooden dowel rod be easier and cheaper?

We would need at least 1 inch dowels for the strength to resist bending when the fabric is pulled tight. They were out of 1's but had a dozen 1 1/4's in stock. Half of them were warped. The others may warp in the future.

On cost, the wood was going to run $4ish a stick, these were $5.81 each. Bottom line they are smaller, stronger and straighter. It is going to cost you $21.60 more to do all 6 columns.
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post #209 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:39 AM
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When I first built my columns (shortly after the Civil War, I believe), I ripped 3/4" ply to give the lateral strencth needed to not bend. I agree with Big in that a 1/2" dowel would curl like a bow.

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post #210 of 3019 Old 09-13-2011, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted! Nice to see you! Yeah I wasn't sure how well they would hold up. I was trying to think how think my dowel rods are that are in my closets. I'm not good with spacial memory. We already agreed to go with the iron rods and fill them with sand.
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