The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think this design for light tray support blocking will be the quickest to make and install. I would use plywood instead of the MDF to avoid the edge splitting issue. Maybe even rip and cut some 2x6s instead. They would give a larger landing zone for attaching the light tray.


Ah, I get it now. Yeah, that looks like it should work fine. If you have trouble with the plywood or MDF splitting, you could consider pocket screws to attach the blocking.

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post #182 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 05:14 PM
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you could consider pocket screws to attach the blocking.

Interesting thought, I can see that in other applications, but when attaching the face of the light tray I have no plans to reach over the top edge to attach screws. I'm thinking about glue and a bunch of nail gun finish nails. Much quicker.
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post #183 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 06:46 PM
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And that would cost....? lol. By ton of money, don't think I mean I could cover that. That's the foundation of the house, how will that work?

Check out Moggies thread: "Saga of the Old Vic". I think he did a dig out of basement. Pretty amazing stuff !

This build looks to be going down that path too of another great build thread.

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post #184 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Interesting thought, I can see that in other applications, but when attaching the face of the light tray I have no plans to reach over the top edge to attach screws. I'm thinking about glue and a bunch of nail gun finish nails. Much quicker.

Mmmmmm... nail gun.



And as for Moogie's thread... that dig was rediculous! Easier to just buy a new house with a better basement! heh
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post #185 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 07:28 PM
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Mmmmmm... nail gun.

And as for Moogie's thread... that dig was rediculous! Easier to just buy a new house with a better basement! heh

^^^^yep.. Or build your dream..

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post #186 of 2512 Old 08-30-2011, 08:43 PM
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Mmmmmm... nail gun.

Bottom of light tray screwed up to soffit, Trying to avoid screws on the front face along the bottom edge so it finishes cleanly.
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post #187 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Bottom of light tray screwed up to soffit, Trying to avoid screws on the front face along the bottom edge so it finishes cleanly.

Yeah I was just thinking about how we would fill in the screw holes and seams. That would be a lot of wood putty! Like you said, much cleaner, I like it.

BIG and I have been taking our time with this part of the project to make sure we know exactly what we're going to do before we do it. Hence the lack of actual building updates. But thank you for posting your concept photos BIG, it makes me feel like we're still making progress. Putting primer on the ceiling doesn't warrant a photo update. It may be a week or two before we actually start building again.
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post #188 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 05:59 AM
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The column and light tray mock ups look great great guys.. cool design.

Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.

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post #189 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 06:39 AM
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Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.

Most Faux wood finishing involves multiple layers of color with one color showing through another in varied levels.

For my mock up I coated the MDF with two coats of sanding sealer with a quick sanding to knock down any high points, Then I grabbed these



Put on two coats of the red with a paper towel

Then I mixed some red and black in a disposable cereal bowl and wiped it over the red with a paper towel.



Later when dry I sealed it with a couple coats of satin Poly.
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post #190 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 06:54 AM
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taking our time with this part of the project to make sure we know exactly what we're going to do before we do it. Hence the lack of actual building updates.

MY philosophy EXACTLY.

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post #191 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 07:14 AM
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post #192 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 07:28 AM
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Wow! The ultimate in being LOGANED!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #193 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 08:51 AM
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Self-LOGANING is not a new phenomenon. But it IS the ULTIMATE in LOGANINNG.

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post #194 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I like how we are going from a record breaking pace to ultimate LOGAN in the span of a few days! So fickle!!! As soon as BIG and I can get some time scheduled where we are both free we will get these light trays done.
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post #195 of 2512 Old 08-31-2011, 09:51 AM
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Just think of it as half-time.
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post #196 of 2512 Old 09-07-2011, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Update (9-7-11) - Got the primer on the tray ceiling done and the first coat of black finished. One thing you immediately notice with the flat black is the seams between the MDF and the ceiling, as well as the screws. The plan is to put some plain trim around the border joints where the MDF meets the ceiling.

This weekend the plan is for BIG and I to put up the light trays. So there should be some new and updated photos by the end of the weekend.

A bunch of supplies were ordered and started to come in last week. Ordered a bunch of dimmers & black conversion kits. A ton of black recepticle outlets and & covers, the middle atlantic rack + black smoked plexiglass front door, some long mono 3.5mm cables for my subwoofer trigger ports, and received my inlet/output plug for the projector.

I also got a good deal on another single axiom M80 speaker, so I now have 3. This will be a much better setup for an AT screen than I had before, as I will now have 3 M80 towers across the front, instead of the old smaller center. This one is black where the others I have are wood veneered, but behind the screen it makes no difference!
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post #197 of 2512 Old 09-07-2011, 07:36 AM
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Would love to hear those M80s. In my smaller room I'm probably going with M60s.

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post #198 of 2512 Old 09-07-2011, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Would love to hear those M80s. In my smaller room I'm probably going with M60s.

I love them. Once the room is done I'll make sure to have an open house if you would like a demo. In my last house with those speakers, that dave matthews radio city blu-ray was one of the best things I had ever heard audio wise. What a sound stage.
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post #199 of 2512 Old 09-07-2011, 11:06 AM
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....dave matthews radio city blu-ray was one of the best things I had ever heard audio wise. What a sound stage....
Too bad dave likes to hear himself talk. Totally effes up that BD IMHO.

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post #200 of 2512 Old 09-07-2011, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Too bad dave likes to hear himself talk. Totally effes up that BD IMHO.
I can't disagree there at all. He sounds like a bumbling idiot when he speaks, no matter what the topic. Usually it doesn't go on for very long before he gets into the next song though. I was commenting more on just the music audio quality, not the disc as a whole.
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post #201 of 2512 Old 09-09-2011, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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2nd coat of flat black done on the ceiling. Ready to put up the trays tomorrow!
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post #202 of 2512 Old 09-11-2011, 07:18 PM
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Damelon and I worked hard on his theater this weekend. Just a preview now the details will be posted Monday AM.

We took a pile of MDF strips.



We built light trays on the inside edge of the soffits.



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post #203 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 07:07 AM
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That looks beautiful! How far out does the stage and the curved ceiling project into the room?

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post #204 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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That looks beautiful! How far out does the stage and the curved ceiling project into the room?

The front corners of the stage are 4'6" from the front wall. The curve in the center comes out a few inches past that. The "ladder" portion of the soffit matches up directly with the screen-wall. The front face of the screenwall will be 2'4" from the front wall. I'll have to go re-measure the big curved mdf piece, but the curve portion I believe was about 11 1/2" inches radius or so, with 5 1/2" flat depth behind that (So about 16-17" from the center of the curve to the back of the MDF, but again, I might be off by an inch or two). We then recessed that whole piece 2 1/4" back for screw leverage (The rest of the light trays were 1 1/2 in, covering the 3/4" mdf and half of the 2x2s on the ladder soffit frame) but we pushed it back the whole way on the front since the screen wall will hide the inconsistency and it would give more leverage for screws. You will see a lot better when BIG posts his pictures of the light trays being built.
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post #205 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 10:13 AM
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LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS
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post #206 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fired green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

What can I say, I am spoiled, and in this case, so are you!
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post #207 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

The front corners of the stage are 4'6" from the front wall. The curve in the center comes out a few inches past that. The "ladder" portion of the soffit matches up directly with the screen-wall. The front face of the screenwall will be 2'4" from the front wall.


Thanks for the info, that might be bad news for me. I just got my framing completed yesterday and I will only have about 28" of depth for my stage, about half of what you have.

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post #208 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, that might be bad news for me. I just got my framing completed yesterday and I will only have about 28" of depth for my stage, about half of what you have.

Well that all depends. My first theater room had a stage too, about 24" or so deep, but I had no screen wall. You need about 2' of space behind most screen walls (give or take a few inches depending on speakers). Then after that all of the space is nothing but visual eye candy. So this shouldn't be a problem for you no matter what you do, it only might make a difference in the appearance you are expecting in front of your wall if you DO have a screen wall.
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post #209 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's

The light tray design from a previous post.

The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.

Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.

The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.

next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge

Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.

You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.

Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.

Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.

Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.

The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.

Done

I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS

Wow, this is really looking good. Thanks for sharing all the details and posting pics...
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post #210 of 2512 Old 09-12-2011, 08:10 PM
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Looking good damelon and Big.

I was initially concerned about the heat from those halogen cans, but am happy to report that it hasn't been an issue at all in my place (perhaps because they don't stay on for long).
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