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544K views 3K replies 221 participants last post by  damelon 
#1 · (Edited)
Black/Red Theater (Yes it was named something else before)
Construction by BIGmouthinDC and Damelon (Construction Time: 7/26/11 - Mid November 2011)
Inspiration from Sandman's/SMX Theater - Acoustical Plans by Bryan Pape (BPape)

Room Details (Trying to make this a table!)
Initial Space : 23’6”L x 16’4”W x 8’9”H
Wall Construction : Room in a Room. Second wall with 1” gap.
Space after Secondary Wall : 22’8”L x 15’4”W x 8’9”H
Wall Decoupling Method : RISC-DC04 Clips
Ceiling Decoupling Method : Clip & Channel
Drywall Method : 2 Layers of 5/8” Drywall with Green Glue
Door : 28” Wide, 1 ¾” Thick solid core door.
Soffit Size : 16” Wide x 10” Tall
Column Info : 6 Columns, 16” Wide x 10” Deep
Screen Size : 130” Wide (149" diag) SeymourAV Centerstage XD with horizontal masking panels
Stage Specs : 2x10s, Sand Filled, Double ¾” Plywood with Felt
Riser Specs : 2x12s, Insulation Filled, Double ¾” Plywood with Felt
Front Wall Treatment : 2” 3lb Dense Cotton – OC703 Corner Bass Traps
Side Wall Treatments : 1” 3lb Dense Cotton
Rear Wall Treatments : 2” OC703 with Paper Face + 2” air gap
Fabric Colors : GOM Black and GOM Claret Accent.
Paint Color : Behr (Home Depot) Antique Ruby (To Match Fabric)
Viewing Distances : 12’ Front Row, 18’ Rear Row (Approx)
Projector : JVC RS540 E-Shift 4K
Speakers : 3x Axiom M80 L/C/R, 4x Axiom QS8 Surrounds
Subwoofers : 2x Seaton Submersive HP+ (Master & Slave)
Amp : Sunfire TGA7400
Preamp : Denon X4500H (Previously Onkyo PR-SC5508)
HTPC : 50TB Unraid NAS & HTPC using Kodi with RTX2060
Carpet : Stainmaster "Silver Lake" (Lowes)

ALL PHOTOS CAN BE VIEWED IN THE ALBUM LINK BELOW.
BR Theater Build Album

Link to my complete cost breakdown of the theater, along with several links of where I acquired products
https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post21138019

Original Acoustical Plan design (See above for treatment variance on side/rear walls)
Acoustical Plan

Original Completed Photos - Theater (Scope Screen)




Theater Screen Conversion (to 16:9) & Star Ceiling Addition - 2015



 

Pool Information:
Size : (31,000 Gallons) about 42 feet long and 16-20 feet wide depending on location.
Retaining Wall Stone is Sequoia Rustic Ledge from El Dorado Stone
Pool Automation Equipment - Jandy Aqualink
Pool Lights : Hayward Colorlogic
Pool Pumps : Jandy
Pool Heater : Raypak 400k BTU Propane 

Beginning of Patio Project - End Phase 1 - Spring 2013 (Under-Deck, Bar/Grill, and Hot Tub Area)





End of Patio Project - Summer 2016
WINNER : 1st place / Cast-in-Place, Stamped / Under 5,000 SF Category from American Society of Concrete Contractors 2016




Basement Bar Project. Completed July, 2014


 
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#160 ·
#161 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/20885454


Looks like Big used MDF to mock up the light tray. Is that what you're going to use for the final product? That's got to end up being heavy. How will you fasten the light tray to the vertical surface of the soffet?

1)There is a precedent Sandman used MDF.


2) Blocking, details to follow, once I figure out the easiest way to attach to the soffit face. I would rather screw from the front rather than reaching up blind to screw from the back. (Tom, please no comments)
 
#162 ·
OK, so I charged up my DSLR where I have more control over white balance. Dragged everything outside so that I could shoot in daylight. Actually shade with flash fill.


Here is the crimson everybody was looking for. I also put some black (top) and some black mixed with the crimson (bottom) in the groves and I'm not sure I care for the look. In the final theater they will be lit from directly above so the grooves will be a darker shadow anyway. If we paint I can see I'm going to need to do several coats of the black.

 
#164 · (Edited)
OK, so I charged up my DSLR where I have more control over white balance. Dragged everything outside so that I could shoot in daylight. Actually shade with flash fill.

Here is the crimson everybody was looking for. I also put some black (top) and some black mixed with the crimson (bottom) in the groves and I'm not sure I care for the look. In the final theater they will be lit from directly above so the grooves will be a darker shadow anyway. If we paint I can see I'm going to need to do several coats of the black.



Yes! That is more like the color I was hoping for. I like that paint. I think I also agree with you that at least the "shadowed" color isn't as good as keeping it all one color. I'd like to see it completely black, and then try putting in some steel/nickel/aluminum bands as well to see how it looks. But I think one color for the trim is my current preference.

We spent a long time looking at Ruben's (aka Sandman/SMX) light tray design and it looks like it screwed it into the bottom, with a few pieces of blocking inside of each tray to allow a few bits screwed in higher up. I agree that if it was a "U" shape, it would give it all the stability it needs. At the same time, I think that blocking would accomplish all that the weight requires without all of that additional MDF. I even thought it was completely enclosed originally ( a complete box ) but couldn't figure out an easy way to wire it that way. Then BIG was pointing out that he didn't think they had tops. After looking at several shots many times we concluded they didn't have backs either. Thus half of the weight, easy to wire, recessed rope lighting, etc. We can always build it as an L, finish it, try to mount it, and if it doesn't work a back could easily be added with minimal work.

Gravity and Force will come into play too. Based on an L shape, each piece would have a tendency to pull downward and inward based on the most weight being on the inside edge. However, on the long large sides there would be the two other light tray sections blocking the ability for the force to move inward, not to mention being scewed together. On the front and the back, they would also be scewed into the two side trays. In the end making a big square which would have only the total weight pulling straight down. In that case the vertical screws into the bottom of the soffit should be more than enough to hold it up.
 
#163 ·

Quote:
2) Blocking, details to follow, once I figure out the easiest way to attach to the soffit face. I would rather screw from the front rather than reaching up blind to screw from the back. (Tom, please no comments)

Maybe make the light tray in the shape of a U, instead of an L. That would let you screw through one vertical surface into another vertical surface. With some blocking inside the U, it should be plenty strong, even with MDF.

Quote:
Alternatively putting metallic laminate in the slots. Maybe squeezing the three pieces of molding a little closer together leaving a 3/4 inch gap instead of what is shown.

I like both of these ideas.
 
#165 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner /forum/post/20885399


Are you guys going with sconces and if so, will they be located on the column, or in between the columns? Picked out any cool designs yet?

No sconces. We are doing small recessed lights in the light tray, one over each column, and one light in between each column section, along with a row of gimble lights to point toward the screen and reflect the light into the room. In addition, there will be rope light above the light tray to put non-direct light into the tray ceiling, and step lights.
 
#166 ·
i hate my ceiling height, i have a ton of money and i can't do anything to fix my 7.5' basement ceiling! WEAK!
 
#168 ·
And that would cost....? lol. By ton of money, don't think I mean I could cover that. That's the foundation of the house, how will that work?
 
#170 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner /forum/post/20885842


That looks real nice. Big can you spin that around and show us a picture of the rear?

I could but it would be a big disappointment. It is nothing but a three sided box with a top. I just glued and nailed the edges together. All the relief is on the surface of the box. If we go into production mode I'll take pictures of the steps I used to make the bump. Basically some MDF half moons nailed and glued to the surface, covered with some 3/16 MDF, Then molding added. The 3/16 MDF was actually some leftover faux wood paneling with the unfinished back side facing out.
 
#171 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon /forum/post/20885723


We can always build it as an L, finish it, try to mount it, and if it doesn't work a back could easily be added with minimal work.

Actually I think the best strategy is to put up the bottom and blocking first. Then pop in all the lighting and wire it up. Then add the fronts (3 pieces) Fill the nail/screw holes and sand then paint in place. That way all the pieces can be overlapped to increase the strength and maintain the tightness of the joints.


The light fixture bottom parts come off so nothing will be sticking down during the painting.
 
#172 ·
I think this design for light tray support blocking will be the quickest to make and install. I would use plywood instead of the MDF to avoid the edge splitting issue. Maybe even rip and cut some 2x6s instead. They would give a larger landing zone for attaching the light tray.

 
#176 · (Edited)
Big's post with image from above:

I think this design for light tray support blocking will be the quickest to make and install. I would use plywood instead of the MDF to avoid the edge splitting issue. Maybe even rip and cut some 2x6s instead. They would give a larger landing zone for attaching the light tray.


Quote:Originally Posted by dwightp

you could consider pocket screws to attach the blocking.


Interesting thought, I can see that in other applications, but when attaching the face of the light tray I have no plans to reach over the top edge to attach screws. I'm thinking about glue and a bunch of nail gun finish nails. Much quicker.


Mmmmmm... nail gun.



And as for Moogie's thread... that dig was rediculous! Easier to just buy a new house with a better basement! heh
 
#173 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20886140


I think this design for light tray support blocking will be the quickest to make and install. I would use plywood instead of the MDF to avoid the edge splitting issue. Maybe even rip and cut some 2x6s instead. They would give a larger landing zone for attaching the light tray.


Ah, I get it now. Yeah, that looks like it should work fine. If you have trouble with the plywood or MDF splitting, you could consider pocket screws to attach the blocking.
 
#174 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/20886335


you could consider pocket screws to attach the blocking.

Interesting thought, I can see that in other applications, but when attaching the face of the light tray I have no plans to reach over the top edge to attach screws. I'm thinking about glue and a bunch of nail gun finish nails. Much quicker.
 
#175 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by elmalloc /forum/post/0


And that would cost....? lol. By ton of money, don't think I mean I could cover that. That's the foundation of the house, how will that work?

Check out Moggies thread: "Saga of the Old Vic". I think he did a dig out of basement. Pretty amazing stuff !


This build looks to be going down that path too of another great build thread.
 
#178 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon /forum/post/20887214


Mmmmmm... nail gun.

Bottom of light tray screwed up to soffit, Trying to avoid screws on the front face along the bottom edge so it finishes cleanly.
 
#179 · (Edited)
Quote:Originally Posted by damelon

Mmmmmm... nail gun.


Bottom of light tray screwed up to soffit, Trying to avoid screws on the front face along the bottom edge so it finishes cleanly.
Yeah I was just thinking about how we would fill in the screw holes and seams. That would be a lot of wood putty! Like you said, much cleaner, I like it.

BIG and I have been taking our time with this part of the project to make sure we know exactly what we're going to do before we do it. Hence the lack of actual building updates. But thank you for posting your concept photos BIG, it makes me feel like we're still making progress. Putting primer on the ceiling doesn't warrant a photo update. It may be a week or two before we actually start building again.

------------------------------------

BIG's post below with images

Quote:Originally Posted by KNKKNK

Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.


Most Faux wood finishing involves multiple layers of color with one color showing through another in varied levels.

For my mock up I coated the MDF with two coats of sanding sealer with a quick sanding to knock down any high points, Then I grabbed these



Put on two coats of the red with a paper towel

Then I mixed some red and black in a disposable cereal bowl and wiped it over the red with a paper towel.



Later when dry I sealed it with a couple coats of satin Poly.
 
#180 ·
The column and light tray mock ups look great great guys.. cool design.


Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.


Brad
 
#181 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK /forum/post/20888268


Big could you give a quick run down on how you did the faux stain.. sure cant tell it started life as MDF.

Most Faux wood finishing involves multiple layers of color with one color showing through another in varied levels.


For my mock up I coated the MDF with two coats of sanding sealer with a quick sanding to knock down any high points, Then I grabbed these




Put on two coats of the red with a paper towel


Then I mixed some red and black in a disposable cereal bowl and wiped it over the red with a paper towel.




Later when dry I sealed it with a couple coats of satin Poly.
 
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