The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 76 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2251 of 3019 Old 03-15-2014, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I remember when this was something we could instantly recite!

For the most part, they are 18" Wide, 10" deep (Except for the rear back two, which I believe are slightly deeper to accomodate for the 4" treatements) The parts are (about) 35 1/2" High for the base, 46" High for the black grille, and 9" high for the top. The ribbed mouldings are not included in those measurements.

We didn't do any diffusers. A lot of people still do yes.



Update on my bar : So I got a few estimates on cost to get an idea of what that bar plan would be, and it was upwards of $30k, which was a big no for me. I'm going to go with something a little more simple.


holy cow that is alot ..... not sure what you where/are plannig but dd you kindly point out to them that built a high end theater for less then that eek.gif
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post #2252 of 3019 Old 03-15-2014, 07:29 AM
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Thanks guys. Truly appreciate the info and advice. Really helps a newbie like me out!

Klipsch Rocks!
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post #2253 of 3019 Old 03-15-2014, 11:15 AM
 
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You could always take up wood working and go all out Cowger style on your bar. One page a theater build and 10 pages of bar building biggrin.gif
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post #2254 of 3019 Old 03-15-2014, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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holy cow that is alot ..... not sure what you where/are plannig but dd you kindly point out to them that built a high end theater for less then that eek.gif

I know. I talked to more than one contractor. They provided a lot of really good advice, primarily about custom work, curved surfaces, wood bartop, etc. If you go back a few pages you can see all of the ideas I tried to plan out, but it was too complex. At least for the cost, not really worth it. Going with stock cabinets + moulding, granite, stone, etc ends up being half that.
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post #2255 of 3019 Old 03-15-2014, 08:45 PM
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I know. I talked to more than one contractor. They provided a lot of really good advice, primarily about custom work, curved surfaces, wood bartop, etc. If you go back a few pages you can see all of the ideas I tried to plan out, but it was too complex. At least for the cost, not really worth it. Going with stock cabinets + moulding, granite, stone, etc ends up being half that.

I just ordered my granite this weekend for the bar ...between the bar and the little bar behind second of seats it ened up being close to 75 sq feet of granite and i got several estamites and ended up ordering the granite and cabinets from a place on right near the house, with the granite they came in wi the best price and with the cabiets i ordered they did not make a base microwave cabinet so these guys ordered a 2 or 3 drawewr base and are converting it so there will be one drawer at the bottom then then the microwave free of charge ... I will be using a microwave with the trim kit to give the built in look. anyway if it all come out good i can pass on there info to you.
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post #2256 of 3019 Old 03-16-2014, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I just ordered my granite this weekend for the bar ...between the bar and the little bar behind second of seats it ened up being close to 75 sq feet of granite and i got several estamites and ended up ordering the granite and cabinets from a place on right near the house, with the granite they came in wi the best price and with the cabiets i ordered they did not make a base microwave cabinet so these guys ordered a 2 or 3 drawewr base and are converting it so there will be one drawer at the bottom then then the microwave free of charge ... I will be using a microwave with the trim kit to give the built in look. anyway if it all come out good i can pass on there info to you.

I actually think I'll be ordering the cabinets from Lowes today. Doubtful I'll buy the granite there though, they charge too much usually.

Anyway, they have a lot of deals right now on cabinets.
1) Buy 10 cabinets get the sink base free
1a) Get 4 free roll out shelves if you want them.
2) Any upgraded stains/glazes are free
3) If total price (minus 2 subtractions above) is < $5000 get $300 off, if it's like 5-10k it's $600 off
3b) If you use a lowes credit card get 5% off
4) Off of the total minus 3 above, get a gift card of 10% of your purchase back.

That's a substantial amount of money off of the total price. In total that will be over $2000 off... which I find hard to pass up! smile.gif

We saw a granite there we liked, but the price there is a bit high. So I'll have to shop around. Some of the deals above are over tomorrow, but I don't need to make a decision on the granite part right away.
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post #2257 of 3019 Old 03-16-2014, 07:40 AM
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I actually think I'll be ordering the cabinets from Lowes today. Doubtful I'll buy the granite there though, they charge too much usually.

Anyway, they have a lot of deals right now on cabinets.
1) Buy 10 cabinets get the sink base free
1a) Get 4 free roll out shelves if you want them.
2) Any upgraded stains/glazes are free
3) If total price (minus 2 subtractions above) is < $5000 get $300 off, if it's like 5-10k it's $600 off
3b) If you use a lowes credit card get 5% off
4) Off of the total minus 3 above, get a gift card of 10% of your purchase back.

That's a substantial amount of money off of the total price. In total that will be over $2000 off... which I find hard to pass up! smile.gif

We saw a granite there we liked, but the price there is a bit high. So I'll have to shop around. Some of the deals above are over tomorrow, but I don't need to make a decision on the granite part right away.


I only went with these guys for the cabinets because they saw the sample i had and ended up matching the price....
the price i got at lowes for the granite was high and was with just the plain ol standard color .... anyway when you start looking if want there number i can send it to you
they are right in manassas corner balls ford road and the 234 bypass
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post #2258 of 3019 Old 03-16-2014, 07:41 AM
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That sounds like a great deal from Lowes. Before pulling the trigger, you may want to look at some of the flat-pack cabinet options that are out there. I found that I was able to whittle another 31% off my cabinet cost with the flat pack option vs. fully assembled, including savings on tax and "free" shipping. I don't know how much granite you need, but the total square footage I needed for my bar area was small enough that I was able to pick up on a really nice remnant for $780 all-in.
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post #2259 of 3019 Old 03-21-2014, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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That sounds like a great deal from Lowes. Before pulling the trigger, you may want to look at some of the flat-pack cabinet options that are out there. I found that I was able to whittle another 31% off my cabinet cost with the flat pack option vs. fully assembled, including savings on tax and "free" shipping. I don't know how much granite you need, but the total square footage I needed for my bar area was small enough that I was able to pick up on a really nice remnant for $780 all-in.

Went to a couple other places like you suggested and ended up buying the cabinets from Lowes in the end. The total deal ended up being too good to pass up. I also ordered my appliances. The biggest challenge is going to be how we make our secret door. I may end up purchasing a pre-built one and somehow build it in, or build a fake pantry cabinet. It all depends on space and cost.

Once everything starts arriving I will make sure to record the build process.
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post #2260 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 07:13 AM
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Now the second black panel is added below that.

Followed by the baseboard

going back a ways here... your columns have ribs on them, and do not have a flat profile going up the side. your panels are square. Did you just butt the panels up against the ribs on the columns, and leave a small gap along the rest of the column? Or did you do something to snug it up along the entire column?
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post #2261 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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going back a ways here... your columns have ribs on them, and do not have a flat profile going up the side. your panels are square. Did you just butt the panels up against the ribs on the columns, and leave a small gap along the rest of the column? Or did you do something to snug it up along the entire column?

We talked about this somewhere in the thread, and it was an issue when putting in our panels. We had to do them top to bottom because we had to slide them behind the ribs.

Basically the ribs end like an inch or 1.25" from the wall. We had them cut short to fit the panels behind them. Panels that intersected them and ran the entire width between both columns could not just be pushed flat against the wall because of the ribs, so they had to be put against the wall above or below the ribs and slid vertically into place. The large panels had the luxury of being able to be slid in sideways since they did not run the entire length between the two columns.
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post #2262 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 08:27 AM
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We talked about this somewhere in the thread, and it was an issue when putting in our panels. We had to do them top to bottom because we had to slide them behind the ribs.

Basically the ribs end like an inch or 1.25" from the wall. We had them cut short to fit the panels behind them. Panels that intersected them and ran the entire width between both columns could not just be pushed flat against the wall because of the ribs, so they had to be put against the wall above or below the ribs and slid vertically into place. The large panels had the luxury of being able to be slid in sideways since they did not run the entire length between the two columns.
Hmm, I was hoping you would say something different... oh well. I'll have to figure it out when I get there I guess. I guess this is why people plan ahead...
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post #2263 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, I was hoping you would say something different... oh well. I'll have to figure it out when I get there I guess. I guess this is why people plan ahead...

I don't think we thought about it right away. It wasn't until we made the columns that we thought of it. At least as far as I remember. It made things complicated but in the end installation wasn't difficult.
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post #2264 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 09:03 AM
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I don't think we thought about it right away. It wasn't until we made the columns that we thought of it. At least as far as I remember. It made things complicated but in the end installation wasn't difficult.

Yeah, my columns are all made, pained and ready to go. Not an option to remove 1 inch of ribs on the wall side at this point to tuck the panels under. Ill figure something out im sure. perhaps i can just cut a strip of wood to fit against the column, wrap in fabric, attach to wall, then snug my first panel against that.
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post #2265 of 3019 Old 03-24-2014, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, my columns are all made, pained and ready to go. Not an option to remove 1 inch of ribs on the wall side at this point to tuck the panels under. Ill figure something out im sure. perhaps i can just cut a strip of wood to fit against the column, wrap in fabric, attach to wall, then snug my first panel against that.

How is it not an option? Even if they are painted, something like a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel would even work to make the cut. Are your columns already mounted to your walls? If they aren't that's even easier. You could notch your panels but that would be a lot more work than cutting some trim.
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post #2266 of 3019 Old 03-26-2014, 07:16 AM
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How is it not an option? Even if they are painted, something like a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel would even work to make the cut. Are your columns already mounted to your walls? If they aren't that's even easier. You could notch your panels but that would be a lot more work than cutting some trim.
I hate it when I'm proven wrong.
Thanks for the advice tho, worked great and will save me time and effort in the long run.
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post #2267 of 3019 Old 03-26-2014, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I hate it when I'm proven wrong.
Thanks for the advice tho, worked great and will save me time and effort in the long run.

Wasn't trying to prove you wrong, just trying to be helpful! smile.gif Glad to see it all worked out. I saw the tool you used, and that is one I've considered buying a for a while now. Vibration cutting tool FTW!
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post #2268 of 3019 Old 04-01-2014, 02:53 PM
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For short risers, there are step lights the size of a single gang electrical box. If that fits in the riser that is one solution.


Other than you could use a portion of a rope light or a light strip.


Another option that might work is those small little 12v LED step lights designed for outdoor deck lighting. You can run 12v wiring in a riser. Here is a version with a dimmer option, the lights are 1 /2 inches tall.

http://deckdepot.com/aurora_phoenix_...ht_10pack.aspx


Big,
could you install these in soffits or decorative ceiling trim?
Just curious.
Thanks

Klipsch Rocks!
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post #2269 of 3019 Old 04-01-2014, 02:59 PM
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Yes, but I'm not sure how much light they give off and the color (temperature) of the light.
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post #2270 of 3019 Old 04-01-2014, 03:02 PM
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OK, I was just curious.

Klipsch Rocks!
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post #2271 of 3019 Old 04-02-2014, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Big,
could you install these in soffits or decorative ceiling trim?
Just curious.
Thanks

I plugged these before too. You can look at http://www.de-kor.com/indoor-recessedlights.html for some mini-led lights. I used them under my deck and they are excellent. They are SO tiny. They don't put out as much light as a can light does, but you can put in many of them, and they take up no space.
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post #2272 of 3019 Old 04-02-2014, 08:43 AM
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Thanks Damelon. I was thinking of putting them along the perimeter of the riser too as an option.

Klipsch Rocks!
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post #2273 of 3019 Old 04-02-2014, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Damelon. I was thinking of putting them along the perimeter of the riser too as an option.

Now that I've used them, I've thought about all of the places they might be handy. They are so small. They worked out great outside, and have survived some extreme weather in the last year. Inside they have the benefit of being low voltage, so you wouldn't need to get a permit even to put them in. They also can fit in very small places, even within a 2x4 beam itself. They don't really need any cavity space. Under a riser it might be better to use LED tape lighting though, or easier even. They could work as step lights too I suppose. I think if I used them for that I'd put them on the sides of the step pointing at each other. I couldn't believe how much light the screen picks up from my step lights when I turn them on, as they point forward. I have to turn them all the way down on the dimmer. But that's because I have the frosted glass plates now, I used to have the downward "grille" plates, but they were just too dark. Lighting can be tricky. Sometimes what theaters do is best, that glow rope light along the steps.
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post #2274 of 3019 Old 04-02-2014, 12:27 PM
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I hadn't seen them before. Went to their website and WOW! Really cool applications abound... will have to try some on the patio too.

Klipsch Rocks!
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post #2275 of 3019 Old 04-03-2014, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I hadn't seen them before. Went to their website and WOW! Really cool applications abound... will have to try some on the patio too.

Yeah I thought they had some cool stuff too! Things like their rope lighting is something I'd buy elsewhere like Amazon (Price) but those mini-lights and things like their post lights / rail lights are not as common. It would be cool if you were building a deck from scratch to include all of them. I may use a lot of their lights when I do the pool deck, but not sure yet.


Bar Update:
Cabinets should be delivered next week. Ice Fridge, Dishwasher, Beverage Center, Faucet/Sink should start shipping this week. Already received some things like ceiling speakers and the iron wine rack with door to put into the wall.

I also found the illuminated wall shelves i will use for the bar bottles on the left wall.

Once I have all of the cabinets and appliances roughly in the place I want to put them I can start figuring out how to construct the fake door/wall to the equipment room. I found some great secret doors online but they are expensive if you build them custom. The few that are affordable wouldn't quite fit where my door is, being too close to the corner of the room. Most are 32" wide anyway.
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post #2276 of 3019 Old 04-08-2014, 09:39 AM
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We also got the two layers of 3/4 inch plywood sheathing on top, first layer 100% screwed down, second is in progress, pictures of that will come later when I cut the lip. We did put some 30 lb roofing felt between layers.
 

 

Hi Big,

 

Do you always use two layers of plywood vs just one on top of the Riser?  In traditional floor construction, only 1 is used, so I wasn"t sure why two are used.  I thought maybe on the stage it helped with Bass, but wondered why on the risers.

 

Thanks,

Kevin 

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post #2277 of 3019 Old 04-08-2014, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Big,

Do you always use two layers of plywood vs just one on top of the Riser?  In traditional floor construction, only 1 is used, so I wasn"t sure why two are used.  I thought maybe on the stage it helped with Bass, but wondered why on the risers.

It is for rigidity. Plywood has a flex to it. You want to make sure it is completely solid. It's not as important on the riser as the stage, but a traditional floor will flex or creak from time to time. With 2 layers, that will never happen. Granted, in my previous budget theater I only used one layer, and it never was an issue. Considering how many beams are below the riser and how close they are together, there really isn't much room to flex anyway.
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post #2278 of 3019 Old 04-08-2014, 03:05 PM
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actually on a few projects we used three layers. Erskine group designs are nearly always three layers with Green Glue between layers, Two is a walk in the park.
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post #2279 of 3019 Old 04-09-2014, 04:12 AM
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actually on a few projects we used three layers. Erskine group designs are nearly always three layers with Green Glue between layers, Two is a walk in the park.


Wow... three layers!   There must be some resonance or other sound transfer impact vs just the structural support for the floor.   I guess I'll go with at least two vs my original plan of one!  

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post #2280 of 3019 Old 04-09-2014, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow... three layers!   There must be some resonance or other sound transfer impact vs just the structural support for the floor.   I guess I'll go with at least two vs my original plan of one!  

Well you also have to consider that you are creating a hollow cavity in your room. If sound gets into that cavity and has room to reverberate, then you are going to have some boominess. More mass also prevents sound from getting in, just like soundproofing your walls. In addition, you usually fill it with insulation for the same reason, though I think 3 layers is overkill.
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