The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 76 - AVS Forum
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post #2251 of 2473 Old 03-07-2014, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Now we have the issue with what to do with this doorway.



What I am thinking is to do is instead of worrying how the door looks, covering the surrounding area with stone, worrying about paint, etc.... I will just hide it. I want to make a "secret door" to my theater equipment room behind a false paneled wall, with a similar concept as below, though it may not be a folding door.

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post #2252 of 2473 Old 03-07-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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So forgive the absolute crudeness of my "Paint" sketch I just drew up, because a lot of it is 2D on a 3D and doesn't overlap properly.



The bar would curve out, thinking of a very small row of base cabinets along the left wall (About 4 feet or halfway). They would also continue at countertop height under the curved bartop, so the amount of workable space would change following the curve underneath, ending in almost a full 24" depth when you reach the end of the bartop. I can recess some cabinets "Into" the space under the curved area itself, but still have the insides of the cabinets usable for storage. This will also give me some places to put things for making drinks while still being able to talk to people at the bar, and give me a place to put a kegerator for my beer brewing projects.

The soffit like the one pictured above the wall cabinets in post #2249 would continue along the top of the left wall, and curve out mirroring the shape of the curved bartop. I would recess lights into the bottom of the soffit for direct overhead lighting. This would likely be nothing more than a simple wood frame with either pre-stained wood paneling by the cabinet maker, or done with stainable plywood along with stain provided from the cabinet maker to match.

Since the stone on the wall around and outside of the theater door will be different (More like field stone and not stack stone) it would need a "break" in the transition as the stone on the inside left wall behind the bar would be different. So the corner which would be under the soffit and above the bartop would need to be a fake wood column which would also be stained to serve as the transition break. I only marked this as a yellow square on one side of the corner in the image above but really it would wrap around the entire corner and stick out so it looks like a column.

The final problem, which I discussed with BIG was the storage room door. Now the bartop extends out into the room and we have this ugly storage room white door and doorframe. Very different style with the rest of the bar area. We would likely need to replace that door with a stainable wood door and moulding to match.
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post #2253 of 2473 Old 03-07-2014, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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As for the basement stairs / Wine Cellar, they do a "U" shape coming down, so the space under the top half and landing is completely walled off and unused. We want to knock out the wall which would be directly under the doorway on the main level and put a door there which would "display" the wine behind it, and then a little window on the other wall which would be another way to look in from the side.

This picture has both in a similar space that we would have available, though I am unsure right now as to the "floor/wall" materials we will be using yet. Brick is unlikely.




The door we would use would likely look more like this:

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post #2254 of 2473 Old 03-07-2014, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyway, that is the idea I have inside of my head. I'm a bad artist so drawing is not my strong suit. Hopefully I can convey most of this to our friend and we can get a workable 3d image. As always, I am open to suggestions, questions, ideas, etc. This really is become more of a thread about all of my home projects and not just the theater, but as I find it interesting to read about other people's projects, I thought I'd keep posting mine as they go. We still may also do stage #2 of the pool this year but that remains to be seen.
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post #2255 of 2473 Old 03-14-2014, 06:56 PM
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Did you guys use any diffusers? Im thinking about some DIY 2'x2' diffusers. Does anybody do this anymore?
Big, could you give me rough dimensions of your columns?
Tia

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post #2256 of 2473 Old 03-14-2014, 09:25 PM
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Bob, Damelon will have to put a tape on one, I don't commit that trivia to memory. They were big enough for his speakers.
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post #2257 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I remember when this was something we could instantly recite!

For the most part, they are 18" Wide, 10" deep (Except for the rear back two, which I believe are slightly deeper to accomodate for the 4" treatements) The parts are (about) 35 1/2" High for the base, 46" High for the black grille, and 9" high for the top. The ribbed mouldings are not included in those measurements.

We didn't do any diffusers. A lot of people still do yes.



Update on my bar : So I got a few estimates on cost to get an idea of what that bar plan would be, and it was upwards of $30k, which was a big no for me. I'm going to go with something a little more simple.
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post #2258 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I remember when this was something we could instantly recite!

For the most part, they are 18" Wide, 10" deep (Except for the rear back two, which I believe are slightly deeper to accomodate for the 4" treatements) The parts are (about) 35 1/2" High for the base, 46" High for the black grille, and 9" high for the top. The ribbed mouldings are not included in those measurements.

We didn't do any diffusers. A lot of people still do yes.



Update on my bar : So I got a few estimates on cost to get an idea of what that bar plan would be, and it was upwards of $30k, which was a big no for me. I'm going to go with something a little more simple.


holy cow that is alot ..... not sure what you where/are plannig but dd you kindly point out to them that built a high end theater for less then that eek.gif
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post #2259 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 07:29 AM
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Thanks guys. Truly appreciate the info and advice. Really helps a newbie like me out!

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post #2260 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 11:15 AM
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You could always take up wood working and go all out Cowger style on your bar. One page a theater build and 10 pages of bar building biggrin.gif

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #2261 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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holy cow that is alot ..... not sure what you where/are plannig but dd you kindly point out to them that built a high end theater for less then that eek.gif

I know. I talked to more than one contractor. They provided a lot of really good advice, primarily about custom work, curved surfaces, wood bartop, etc. If you go back a few pages you can see all of the ideas I tried to plan out, but it was too complex. At least for the cost, not really worth it. Going with stock cabinets + moulding, granite, stone, etc ends up being half that.
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post #2262 of 2473 Old 03-15-2014, 08:45 PM
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I know. I talked to more than one contractor. They provided a lot of really good advice, primarily about custom work, curved surfaces, wood bartop, etc. If you go back a few pages you can see all of the ideas I tried to plan out, but it was too complex. At least for the cost, not really worth it. Going with stock cabinets + moulding, granite, stone, etc ends up being half that.

I just ordered my granite this weekend for the bar ...between the bar and the little bar behind second of seats it ened up being close to 75 sq feet of granite and i got several estamites and ended up ordering the granite and cabinets from a place on right near the house, with the granite they came in wi the best price and with the cabiets i ordered they did not make a base microwave cabinet so these guys ordered a 2 or 3 drawewr base and are converting it so there will be one drawer at the bottom then then the microwave free of charge ... I will be using a microwave with the trim kit to give the built in look. anyway if it all come out good i can pass on there info to you.
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post #2263 of 2473 Old 03-16-2014, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I just ordered my granite this weekend for the bar ...between the bar and the little bar behind second of seats it ened up being close to 75 sq feet of granite and i got several estamites and ended up ordering the granite and cabinets from a place on right near the house, with the granite they came in wi the best price and with the cabiets i ordered they did not make a base microwave cabinet so these guys ordered a 2 or 3 drawewr base and are converting it so there will be one drawer at the bottom then then the microwave free of charge ... I will be using a microwave with the trim kit to give the built in look. anyway if it all come out good i can pass on there info to you.

I actually think I'll be ordering the cabinets from Lowes today. Doubtful I'll buy the granite there though, they charge too much usually.

Anyway, they have a lot of deals right now on cabinets.
1) Buy 10 cabinets get the sink base free
1a) Get 4 free roll out shelves if you want them.
2) Any upgraded stains/glazes are free
3) If total price (minus 2 subtractions above) is < $5000 get $300 off, if it's like 5-10k it's $600 off
3b) If you use a lowes credit card get 5% off
4) Off of the total minus 3 above, get a gift card of 10% of your purchase back.

That's a substantial amount of money off of the total price. In total that will be over $2000 off... which I find hard to pass up! smile.gif

We saw a granite there we liked, but the price there is a bit high. So I'll have to shop around. Some of the deals above are over tomorrow, but I don't need to make a decision on the granite part right away.
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post #2264 of 2473 Old 03-16-2014, 07:40 AM
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I actually think I'll be ordering the cabinets from Lowes today. Doubtful I'll buy the granite there though, they charge too much usually.

Anyway, they have a lot of deals right now on cabinets.
1) Buy 10 cabinets get the sink base free
1a) Get 4 free roll out shelves if you want them.
2) Any upgraded stains/glazes are free
3) If total price (minus 2 subtractions above) is < $5000 get $300 off, if it's like 5-10k it's $600 off
3b) If you use a lowes credit card get 5% off
4) Off of the total minus 3 above, get a gift card of 10% of your purchase back.

That's a substantial amount of money off of the total price. In total that will be over $2000 off... which I find hard to pass up! smile.gif

We saw a granite there we liked, but the price there is a bit high. So I'll have to shop around. Some of the deals above are over tomorrow, but I don't need to make a decision on the granite part right away.


I only went with these guys for the cabinets because they saw the sample i had and ended up matching the price....
the price i got at lowes for the granite was high and was with just the plain ol standard color .... anyway when you start looking if want there number i can send it to you
they are right in manassas corner balls ford road and the 234 bypass
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post #2265 of 2473 Old 03-16-2014, 07:41 AM
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That sounds like a great deal from Lowes. Before pulling the trigger, you may want to look at some of the flat-pack cabinet options that are out there. I found that I was able to whittle another 31% off my cabinet cost with the flat pack option vs. fully assembled, including savings on tax and "free" shipping. I don't know how much granite you need, but the total square footage I needed for my bar area was small enough that I was able to pick up on a really nice remnant for $780 all-in.
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post #2266 of 2473 Old 03-21-2014, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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That sounds like a great deal from Lowes. Before pulling the trigger, you may want to look at some of the flat-pack cabinet options that are out there. I found that I was able to whittle another 31% off my cabinet cost with the flat pack option vs. fully assembled, including savings on tax and "free" shipping. I don't know how much granite you need, but the total square footage I needed for my bar area was small enough that I was able to pick up on a really nice remnant for $780 all-in.

Went to a couple other places like you suggested and ended up buying the cabinets from Lowes in the end. The total deal ended up being too good to pass up. I also ordered my appliances. The biggest challenge is going to be how we make our secret door. I may end up purchasing a pre-built one and somehow build it in, or build a fake pantry cabinet. It all depends on space and cost.

Once everything starts arriving I will make sure to record the build process.
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post #2267 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 07:13 AM
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Now the second black panel is added below that.

Followed by the baseboard

going back a ways here... your columns have ribs on them, and do not have a flat profile going up the side. your panels are square. Did you just butt the panels up against the ribs on the columns, and leave a small gap along the rest of the column? Or did you do something to snug it up along the entire column?
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post #2268 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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going back a ways here... your columns have ribs on them, and do not have a flat profile going up the side. your panels are square. Did you just butt the panels up against the ribs on the columns, and leave a small gap along the rest of the column? Or did you do something to snug it up along the entire column?

We talked about this somewhere in the thread, and it was an issue when putting in our panels. We had to do them top to bottom because we had to slide them behind the ribs.

Basically the ribs end like an inch or 1.25" from the wall. We had them cut short to fit the panels behind them. Panels that intersected them and ran the entire width between both columns could not just be pushed flat against the wall because of the ribs, so they had to be put against the wall above or below the ribs and slid vertically into place. The large panels had the luxury of being able to be slid in sideways since they did not run the entire length between the two columns.
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post #2269 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 08:27 AM
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We talked about this somewhere in the thread, and it was an issue when putting in our panels. We had to do them top to bottom because we had to slide them behind the ribs.

Basically the ribs end like an inch or 1.25" from the wall. We had them cut short to fit the panels behind them. Panels that intersected them and ran the entire width between both columns could not just be pushed flat against the wall because of the ribs, so they had to be put against the wall above or below the ribs and slid vertically into place. The large panels had the luxury of being able to be slid in sideways since they did not run the entire length between the two columns.
Hmm, I was hoping you would say something different... oh well. I'll have to figure it out when I get there I guess. I guess this is why people plan ahead...
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post #2270 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, I was hoping you would say something different... oh well. I'll have to figure it out when I get there I guess. I guess this is why people plan ahead...

I don't think we thought about it right away. It wasn't until we made the columns that we thought of it. At least as far as I remember. It made things complicated but in the end installation wasn't difficult.
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post #2271 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 09:03 AM
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I don't think we thought about it right away. It wasn't until we made the columns that we thought of it. At least as far as I remember. It made things complicated but in the end installation wasn't difficult.

Yeah, my columns are all made, pained and ready to go. Not an option to remove 1 inch of ribs on the wall side at this point to tuck the panels under. Ill figure something out im sure. perhaps i can just cut a strip of wood to fit against the column, wrap in fabric, attach to wall, then snug my first panel against that.
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post #2272 of 2473 Old 03-24-2014, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, my columns are all made, pained and ready to go. Not an option to remove 1 inch of ribs on the wall side at this point to tuck the panels under. Ill figure something out im sure. perhaps i can just cut a strip of wood to fit against the column, wrap in fabric, attach to wall, then snug my first panel against that.

How is it not an option? Even if they are painted, something like a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel would even work to make the cut. Are your columns already mounted to your walls? If they aren't that's even easier. You could notch your panels but that would be a lot more work than cutting some trim.
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How is it not an option? Even if they are painted, something like a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel would even work to make the cut. Are your columns already mounted to your walls? If they aren't that's even easier. You could notch your panels but that would be a lot more work than cutting some trim.
I hate it when I'm proven wrong.
Thanks for the advice tho, worked great and will save me time and effort in the long run.
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post #2274 of 2473 Old 03-26-2014, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I hate it when I'm proven wrong.
Thanks for the advice tho, worked great and will save me time and effort in the long run.

Wasn't trying to prove you wrong, just trying to be helpful! smile.gif Glad to see it all worked out. I saw the tool you used, and that is one I've considered buying a for a while now. Vibration cutting tool FTW!
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post #2275 of 2473 Old 04-01-2014, 02:53 PM
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For short risers, there are step lights the size of a single gang electrical box. If that fits in the riser that is one solution.


Other than you could use a portion of a rope light or a light strip.


Another option that might work is those small little 12v LED step lights designed for outdoor deck lighting. You can run 12v wiring in a riser. Here is a version with a dimmer option, the lights are 1 /2 inches tall.

http://deckdepot.com/aurora_phoenix_...ht_10pack.aspx


Big,
could you install these in soffits or decorative ceiling trim?
Just curious.
Thanks

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post #2276 of 2473 Old 04-01-2014, 02:59 PM
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Yes, but I'm not sure how much light they give off and the color (temperature) of the light.
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post #2277 of 2473 Old 04-01-2014, 03:02 PM
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OK, I was just curious.

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post #2278 of 2473 Old 04-02-2014, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Big,
could you install these in soffits or decorative ceiling trim?
Just curious.
Thanks

I plugged these before too. You can look at http://www.de-kor.com/indoor-recessedlights.html for some mini-led lights. I used them under my deck and they are excellent. They are SO tiny. They don't put out as much light as a can light does, but you can put in many of them, and they take up no space.
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post #2279 of 2473 Old 04-02-2014, 08:43 AM
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Thanks Damelon. I was thinking of putting them along the perimeter of the riser too as an option.

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post #2280 of 2473 Old 04-02-2014, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Damelon. I was thinking of putting them along the perimeter of the riser too as an option.

Now that I've used them, I've thought about all of the places they might be handy. They are so small. They worked out great outside, and have survived some extreme weather in the last year. Inside they have the benefit of being low voltage, so you wouldn't need to get a permit even to put them in. They also can fit in very small places, even within a 2x4 beam itself. They don't really need any cavity space. Under a riser it might be better to use LED tape lighting though, or easier even. They could work as step lights too I suppose. I think if I used them for that I'd put them on the sides of the step pointing at each other. I couldn't believe how much light the screen picks up from my step lights when I turn them on, as they point forward. I have to turn them all the way down on the dimmer. But that's because I have the frosted glass plates now, I used to have the downward "grille" plates, but they were just too dark. Lighting can be tricky. Sometimes what theaters do is best, that glow rope light along the steps.
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