The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 84 - AVS Forum
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post
sounds like a case where upgrade itus maybe starting to creap up ..... may need to take some clariden
I don't feel the need to upgrade everything as it all is working great. To be honest I've never liked the look of these chairs in the room. But I'm not going to replace the chairs because of the table holders. Especially with what chairs cost! I'm going to stick with this projector too until 4K is relevant, and at that point thinks like the pre-amp could be upgraded too to support the new HDMI standards. So at least another year or two before I make any changes.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post
I don't feel the need to upgrade everything as it all is working great. To be honest I've never liked the look of these chairs in the room. But I'm not going to replace the chairs because of the table holders. Especially with what chairs cost! I'm going to stick with this projector too until 4K is relevant, and at that point thinks like the pre-amp could be upgraded too to support the new HDMI standards. So at least another year or two before I make any changes.
sounds like a plan .... Big found some great chairs for good price though some where maybe he will chime in or shoot you meaasage about them. Not that should sway you but just something to keep in mind. I will see him later today in Denver!!!
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon
Although we also did put foam-on-a-roll around the outsides of both between the wall and the wooden structures.

Forgot I had a picture of this, These were the pieces cut for the stage before assembly. Damelon tacked on the foam

Necroing this old post because I'm basically 100% completely ripping off your stage idea because its well documented and its awesome looking. So.... thanks for that. :-)

Now the question: what's the point of the foam between the wall and the stage? Just to absorb any possible vibration between the two (possible noise?) Is it necessary?

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Old 10-20-2014, 12:30 PM
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save yourself the effort and just leave an airgap. 1/2 inch is fine. It is to isolate the stage from the walls.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
Necroing this old post because I'm basically 100% completely ripping off your stage idea because its well documented and its awesome looking. So.... thanks for that. :-)

Now the question: what's the point of the foam between the wall and the stage? Just to absorb any possible vibration between the two (possible noise?) Is it necessary?
So the major point is that you do not couple your stage to your walls. Roofing felt under it, roofing felt over it. That is for vibration. The foam on a roll on the outside is a very cheap way of doing it on the outsides, yes. There are a lot of other ways you could go about this, but I think many people dont do anything at all too. (just have a gap) Just as long as you don't bolt the stage to the walls, you are not committing major crimes This is pretty much the de-facto stage design on a lot of builds since I think the overall shape is universally liked. You can see from the first page of this build thread that I ripped it off from another theater as well. I love it too!

Last edited by damelon; 10-20-2014 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
save yourself the effort and just leave an airgap. 1/2 inch is fine. It is to isolate the stage from the walls.
you guys are fast. thanks for the quick response, saved me a trip back to the ol' HD. I'll leave the 1/2" gap.

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Old 10-20-2014, 12:32 PM
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So the major point is that you do not couple your stage to your walls. Roofing felt under it, roofing felt over it. That is for vibration. The foam on a roll on the outside is a very cheap way of doing it on the outsides, yes. There are a lot of other ways you could go about this, but I think many people dont do anything at all too. Roofing felt on the outside, whatever. Just as long as you don't bolt the stage to the walls, you are not committing major crimes This is pretty much the de-facto stage design on a lot of builds since I think the overall shape is universally liked. You can see from the first page of this build thread that I ripped it off from another theater as well. I love it too!
Awesome, thanks.

What do you mean by "roofing felt over it"?

I was planning on roofing felt under (already have that). Then the framing, then 3/4" OSB, green glue, 3/4" OSB.

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Old 10-20-2014, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
Awesome, thanks.

What do you mean by "roofing felt over it"?

I was planning on roofing felt under (already have that). Then the framing, then 3/4" OSB, green glue, 3/4" OSB.
I think we used roofing felt between the layers of OSB and not green glue (Pretty sure) We used GG between drywall only. It has been 3 years now, I'd have to check.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:46 PM
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I think we used roofing felt between the layers of OSB and not green glue (Pretty sure) We used GG between drywall only. It has been 3 years now, I'd have to check.
I've seen it done both ways here. I have a tub leftover after DW, so just going to use it for my riser and stage.

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Old 10-20-2014, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
I've seen it done both ways here. I have a tub leftover after DW, so just going to use it for my riser and stage.
Should work just fine either way. With all of that sand and materials it is a piece of work when completed!
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:16 PM
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The roofing felt is for prevention of wood to wood squeaks, between the wood layers.


Beneath the stage is likely about preventing moisture wicking up from the concrete.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
save yourself the effort and just leave an airgap. 1/2 inch is fine. It is to isolate the stage from the walls.
So another execution question.

When cutting the 3/4 decking for the stage, how did you make your curves perfect?

My plan was to rip the 3/4 OSB down the middle (they are 4x8, so - heavy and huge) to make them more manageable. The back pieces (which cover the rectangular boxes) will be easy. I was planning on taking the front 2x8 sheets and lay them over the curve, and reach underneath and take a sharpie to trace the outline of the curve. Then flip the board, and add a 1" lip (or more? less?) to it, then layer two sheets of 3/4 on top of eachother and using the new guide, use a jigsaw to cut through both sheets at once as best I can. (I'm unfortunately not very good with a jigsaw, but hopefully it won't really matter too much since it will be covered by carpet).

Is this a decent plan or can you suggest a better method?

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Old 10-21-2014, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
So another execution question.

When cutting the 3/4 decking for the stage, how did you make your curves perfect?

My plan was to rip the 3/4 OSB down the middle (they are 4x8, so - heavy and huge) to make them more manageable. The back pieces (which cover the rectangular boxes) will be easy. I was planning on taking the front 2x8 sheets and lay them over the curve, and reach underneath and take a sharpie to trace the outline of the curve. Then flip the board, and add a 1" lip (or more? less?) to it, then layer two sheets of 3/4 on top of eachother and using the new guide, use a jigsaw to cut through both sheets at once as best I can. (I'm unfortunately not very good with a jigsaw, but hopefully it won't really matter too much since it will be covered by carpet).

Is this a decent plan or can you suggest a better method?
You need the patented BIG curve tool. $79.99 plus shipping
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:31 AM
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You need the patented BIG curve tool. $79.99 plus shipping
Maybe I could rent it... he's only 10 minutes from me.

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Old 10-21-2014, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Maybe I could rent it... he's only 10 minutes from me.
How he did it is here
The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project

The little tool is sitting on the center of the stage in this photo. It's like a wooden piano tuning fork



BIG I'm sure will post a close-up and explain, but basically once the square OSB is on top of the stage, which has a curved front, he runs this piece of wood along the front and it allows you to trace the curve to cut along the top.... I think

Last edited by damelon; 10-21-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post
How he did it is here
The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project

The little tool is sitting on the center of the stage in this photo. It's like a wooden piano tuning fork



BIG I'm sure will post a close-up and explain, but basically once the square OSB is on top of the stage, which has a curved front, he runs this piece of wood along the front and it allows you to trace the curve to cut along the top.... I think
Ah yeah, I understand the concept. How deep of a lip did he leave on it, do you recall?

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Old 10-21-2014, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah yeah, I understand the concept. How deep of a lip did he leave on it, do you recall?
I don't. It did say in that post he used a 1.5" lip on the rear riser, and that could be the case on the front, other than the corners, which extended out further. I could try to measure now but with the carpet I really don't know.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:28 AM
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1 1/2 to 2 inch lip

here is better info on the Parkinson Curv-o-matic and it's use Bethesda Build

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-22-2014 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:35 AM
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:49 AM
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You win, your Curve-o-matic is bigger than mine.

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Old 10-22-2014, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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lol wow, that is the deluxe curve-o-matic! haha
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:31 AM
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we just used some 2x2s and the when done took them apart and used in columns waste not want not
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