The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 85 - AVS Forum
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post #2521 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 01:34 PM
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The top piece is shorter than the bottom yielding a lip the size you want.
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post #2522 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 01:37 PM
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this was my toy jigsaw before I got a pro quality BOSCH.

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post #2523 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 01:54 PM
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OK one more pic hot off the camera

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post #2524 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 02:29 PM
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So, is it then important to keep the device square with underside of the stage? Seems like if you don't, then it could actually be shorter than the 2"? Does that question make any sense?
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post #2525 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 02:37 PM
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of course. keep it perpendicular to the area of the stage you are working on. Don't stress out over some wandering and irregularities, once it is wrapped in carpet they disappear.
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post #2526 of 2532 Old 11-03-2014, 02:57 PM
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Big & Damelon,

pretty awesome explanation guys; thanks a lot once again!!

Regards, Chuck
Hold on tight to your dreams - ELO
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post #2527 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Big & Damelon,

pretty awesome explanation guys; thanks a lot once again!!
Anytime!

So I've had a few Private Message conversations this fall which asked about 2 topics more than once so I thought I would share them.

1) How do you like your carpet? Where did you get it?
As to the "where did I get it", it is Silver Lake Stainmaster carpet from Lowes. (This was updated a month or so ago on my front page) I do like the carpet, it is very comfortable to sit on, especially with the thick padding. It does have a couple of downsides though that people should be aware of. 1) It is not really pet friendly. There are a lot of loops which could easily get caught up on claws or paws. 2) Due to the multi-texture nature of the carpet, cleaning is a little more difficult because of the nooks in it. 3) It is a thick carpet, so you will have to keep that in mind when calculating your door stop. If I had to do it again, I'd use the flat surface thin carpet that people like BIG, Sandman, Snickers used on their theaters. The exact style Snickers has is the one I would have used. It is just easier in every way to plan and manage.

2) Were your treatments adequate? Do you like your acoustic plan?
Yes, very much. I have never officially completed measurements of my room, nor do I really even know what to look at. I can just say that it sounds great to my ears, there are no dead spots I have detected, the dialogue is clear, and the bass with my 2 Submersives is exactly how I want it. The 1" treatments on the side were a change from my original plan of 2" but it doesn't seem to be an issue. If there is any thing to change audio wise, it would be just to get nicer speakers! At least, in my opinion.

3) Did you notice any kind of light reflection with your gray carpet onto the screen?
None whatsoever. The carpet vanishes during a movie.

And I wanted to update my "What would you do differently next time" list:
1) I'd spend a lot more time planning and addressing cooling in the room. This is the only thing I don't like about my theater, it doesn't have adequate cooling for a full room of people.
2) I'd get flat, low profile, non-textured carpet. I liked the Masland St. Marks Square carpet (See Merrimont Trace)
3) I'd probably get different chairs. Don't know which... though the Fortress Lexington chairs look amazing (they just cost as much as my theater did)
4) I would have used a slightly taller Rack unit. Mine is almost full already, and upgrades or additions could start to max out the space. I could of course mount them on the wall next to the rack unit inside of the storage closed, but this one is minor.
5) I would have put my step lighting on each side of the step facing the center instead of the lights on the back side facing the screen.
6) If I did it again today, I would incorporate a lot of accept LED Lighting
7) I'd make the false wall open with hinges somehow to make access easier behind the screen

Last edited by damelon; 11-05-2014 at 11:52 AM.
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post #2528 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 10:52 AM
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Anytime!
2) I'd get flat uniform carpet. I liked the Masland St. Marks Square carpet (See Merrimont Trace)

5) I would have put my step lighting on each side of the step facing the center instead of the lights on the back side facing the screen.
When you say 'uniform', I initially thought you meant 'not patterned'... but looking at Merrimont Trace, clearly there is a pattern. By 'uniform', do you mean 'flat' & not loops, etc?

As for Step Lighting, do you mean mounted in the Walls, facing the center? Is this due to reflections?
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post #2529 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
When you say 'uniform', I initially thought you meant 'not patterned'... but looking at Merrimont Trace, clearly there is a pattern. By 'uniform', do you mean 'flat' & not loops, etc?

As for Step Lighting, do you mean mounted in the Walls, facing the center? Is this due to reflections?
Yes, sorry, I was unclear. Unform "Height" of the carpet. The square pattern on my carpet has high squares and low squares. I mean a completely flat carpet, vs a textured carpet. My bad! The carpet Masland carpet is also a lot less thick, so it likely would have not exceeded the height of my door stop, thus requiring me to shave down my door a bit. I now have a really small gap between my stop and my door which sometimes lets some sound leak out. Also, a flat carpet would be a lot easier to keep clean. I updated the list above to be more clear.

I think you get what I was trying to stay. On the steps, it recesses down from my riser in my build so that there are three "walls" around the step. I would have rather put lights on the side walls of the step shining down on the step from each side instead of the one flat panel light in the center. When I initially built the theater, Big & I chose a sort of HVAC Register style light cover, which pointed the light down. The problem was that it was way too dim and didn't really provide any light on the step. I replaced that with a flat "Glazed Window" cover, which provided adequate light, but it points right at the screen, and you would be amazed at how little light it takes for the screen to catch it. It is sort of a direct facing beam. Even under-lip tape light would be a good choice or rope light along the base to see where the step is. The lighting choices so far weren't the best in that case. I never turn on my step lights currently.

Last edited by damelon; 11-05-2014 at 02:57 PM.
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post #2530 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 02:56 PM
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I was reading through your thread again. Brian did the treatment plan I believe. Did you post it?

Equipment: Denon AVR-4520, Fusion Tempest (LCR), Fusion Alchemy (4xSurrounds+Wides+Heights),15" Dayton Ultimax X 4, SMX 2.35:1 Screen
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post #2531 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeff in Canada View Post
I was reading through your thread again. Brian did the treatment plan I believe. Did you post it?
There is a link to it on the first post, but the image I posted was when it was a 2" side / 2" rear plan. It was later updated to a 1" side treatment and 4" rear treatment, though I don't believe the image was ever updated, we discussed that over email later.
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post #2532 of 2532 Old 11-05-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post
There is a link to it on the first post, but the image I posted was when it was a 2" side / 2" rear plan. It was later updated to a 1" side treatment and 4" rear treatment, though I don't believe the image was ever updated, we discussed that over email later.
I'm at the stage of putting up treatments and then cloth. I'm going to be 1" on the sides with perhaps 4" on the door. I have some Kinetics Diffusion panels as well that I'll have on the back.

Your build, Mario's build and Snicker's build were very helpful. BIG was extremely helpful in PM's and I appreciate his assistance as well.

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Last edited by Jeff in Canada; 11-05-2014 at 04:34 PM.
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