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post #241 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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All of the cotton arrived from Bryan Pape yesterday. I decided to clean up all of the "scrap crap" pieces of wood. Kept anything I deemed usable and threw away almost all of the extra drywall scraps as well. Now there is room for the chairs when they arrive.

The plexi-door arrived, as well as the vent registers and the black decora outlets & all of the black covers. I got the last 2 black dimmer conversion kits for the RF dimmers, so 2 of them will have to be white until the back-order comes in.
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post #242 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 08:39 AM
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Kept anything I deemed usable
In my shop that is my hardest problem. You never now what you might be able to use. Once a year I try take a pickup load to the dump Otherwise I can't move around.
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post #243 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 08:57 AM
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In my shop that is my hardest problem. You never now what you might be able to use. Once a year I try take a pickup load to the dump Otherwise I can't move around.
Haha, that sounds familiar. I have boxes of stuff that don't make any rational sense to hang onto - like piles of component cables - but I find it hard to part with stuff when its "still good", yet has almost no monetary value.
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post #244 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 09:42 AM
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I was just working on the columns and realized I actually used some scrap MDF I had laying around for some small parts. Probably 5+ years old.
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post #245 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I was just working on the columns and realized I actually used some scrap MDF I had laying around for some small parts. Probably 5+ years old.

What is funny is we saved a bunch of long MDF pieces, some larger square MDF pieces, and a bunch of 2x2s for possible column or panel pieces, yet BIG is pre-fabbing most of them at his house, so they are going un-used. Maybe we will be able to use some for the fabric panels, but at least they are out of the way for now.
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post #246 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 11:07 AM
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I did think about that but when I realized it would be 2 hours round trip I quickly said oh well. Yes hopefully we can use some of that stuff for other odds and ends.

Do you still have the bendy board?
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post #247 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you still have the bendy board?

How could I get rid of the magical bendy board. It's like a twizzler you can build things with.
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post #248 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 11:36 AM
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In my shop that is my hardest problem. You never now what you might be able to use. Once a year I try take a pickup load to the dump Otherwise I can't move around.

I'm finishing a project now where every piece of wood was left over from prior projects. It has made absolutely no visible difference in the amount of wood scraps piled in my shop. Maybe I need to build a bigger project.

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post #249 of 2492 Old 09-15-2011, 01:34 PM
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Subscribed. Nice work on the soffits. How much space are you leaving above the light tray and the ceiling?
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post #250 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Subscribed. Nice work on the soffits. How much space are you leaving above the light tray and the ceiling?

I believe it is 5". It might be 4".
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post #251 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 08:48 AM
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If we need to be exact I think the soffit is 10 inches tall (after the MDF shuffle), the bottom of the light tray is 3/4 thick and mounted to the bottom of the soffit. The face of the light tray is 6 inches tall mounted to the edge of the bottom, So the remaining gap is 4.75.
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post #252 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If we need to be exact I think the soffit is 10 inches tall (after the MDF shuffle), the bottom of the light tray is 3/4 thick and mounted to the bottom of the soffit. The face of the light tray is 6 inches tall mounted to the edge of the bottom, So the remaining gap is 4.75.

BIG and I are getting very good at correcting each other's measurements. I just need to be better about pointing out the corrections before cuts are made. Sometimes I see them but I fail to speak. Then when I say something like "you cut that too short" right afterwords he gives me a long stare and chuckles in sadness.

He did a mock up of a column a while back and it was 16" wide. (Which is what I had told him at the time was what I wanted) After he made the mock-up, I told him "hey my pencil drawing on the wall says 18 inches". So when he started to make them this week he made them 18" wide. Then I found a note saying (Make columns 16" instead of 18") And when I told him that, he said... too late! But 18" is what I wanted in the beginning (I had 18x12 columns and then wanted them 18x10 and then 16x10) so 18x10 is no big deal.
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post #253 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 09:28 AM
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Thanks for the info. My soffit is 10" high without the drywall so mine should be similar. I'm currently working on my soffits now so I'm watching your progress carefully. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm doing the soffits as I go. I figure I will not make any progress if I have to figure everything out on paper first. Paralysis by analysis.
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post #254 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. My soffit is 10" high without the drywall so mine should be similar. I'm currently working on my soffits now so I'm watching your progress carefully. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm doing the soffits as I go. I figure I will not make any progress if I have to figure everything out on paper first. Paralysis by analysis.

Yeah you are right on the money there. We aren't using drywall on our soffits. There will be a fabric bottom. The rest will be stuffed with some cotton insulation. The bare soffit for us is 10" high by 16" wide. The front section is deeper at 2'4" deep. The fabric panels will go on the bottom of the soffit. Our light tray bottoms are 3/4" thick and are on the bottom of the soffit so the frames for the fabric panels will be made to be flush.
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post #255 of 2492 Old 09-16-2011, 04:01 PM
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I'm going to do fabric bottom on the front and rear soffit so i can fill them for bass traps. I'd like to do it all the way around but I have HVAC in the way.
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post #256 of 2492 Old 09-17-2011, 09:01 AM
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damelon and Big,

What are your thoughts on only using only one set of side surrounds compared to two sets of side surrounds (one set for each row).

Where are they going to be placed and what kind of impact will it have on the rows?

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post #257 of 2492 Old 09-17-2011, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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damelon and Big,

What are your thoughts on only using only one set of side surrounds compared to two sets of side surrounds (one set for each row).

Where are they going to be placed and what kind of impact will it have on the rows?

Rear speakers are more for a general field vs direct location-wise. They have documents showing recommended angles of placement relative to your seating position... however this breaks down quickly the moment you have more than one seat. You can "repeat" side speakers, but you would have to have a really large room to ever make that necessary. A lot of surround speakers are dipole or omnipole so that the sound goes in multiple directions from a give point anyway. In a 7.1/2 surround field there are rear side and rear back speakers. You wouldn't want to use both of those channels on the sides. I personally would never put two pairs of side speakers in my theater unless it was something like 50 feet long. Any standard 2-row seating arrangement will be just fine with 1 pair of side/rear speakers. Many people still like plain old 5.1 vs 7.1 and that can have speakers on the sides OR the rear.
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post #258 of 2492 Old 09-17-2011, 02:54 PM
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You putting yours in between rows or closer towards the back/front row?

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post #259 of 2492 Old 09-17-2011, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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You putting yours in between rows or closer towards the back/front row?

They are just behind the font row. The columns will start where the riser begins and are 18" wide, the speakers will be inside of them in the middle.
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post #260 of 2492 Old 09-18-2011, 04:55 AM
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Just a quick preview. Damelon cracked the whip on his help this weekend and a lot of work as been done on the space. A FULL report will be forthcoming on Monday. Another day of work is ahead of us today.

Here the visiting English teacher from Poland puts on a first coat of paint. This is the first color introduced into the room and at this point we began to wonder about color choices and the meaning of life.

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post #261 of 2492 Old 09-18-2011, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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BIG I am surprised you let any pictures slip that have uncompleted columns in them! House party kept me up until 3am last night, expect walking dead help today.
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post #262 of 2492 Old 09-18-2011, 06:42 PM
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OK, here is a semi completed NAKED column, still needs the nail holes filled, sanding, painting, and covering the middle with fabric.





Here is a shot of the soffit with 3 1/2 coats of paint (still drying). Damelon put on two coats today even with his lack of sleep while I worked on the columns. Note to self, Sanding Sealer is not a substitute for a dark tinted primer. The extra 1/2 coat was was an intermediate coat hitting some of the areas showing through the first two coats.



Details of this work tomorrow.
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post #263 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm still in decision limbo when it comes to the color of the ribbing and the space in between. At the moment, we are just going to pain the solid parts of the column the same color as the light tray and the open part will be black GOM fabric. But I keep thinking it will look pretty plain that way.

I'm still pretty convinced that either the inlay will need to be a different color. I may end up going back to my original thought black or chrome/brushed nickel between the ribs. With this new brighter red instead of that faded garnet color I think the black would be much more profound than in the mock-up column and that metal banding would also go much better.
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post #264 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 07:15 AM
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I think the key is to see the painted column in the final lighting scheme. Since there will be a light shining from directly above washing the face of the column the shadows of the ribbing may be enough of an effect. I do have a small roll of brushed stainless steel peel and stick laminate in "inventory".



or check out these options:

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/she...sheetingfx.htm
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post #265 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Another topic I'd like to start here. I would LIKE to have a 130" wide cinemascope AT screen (Woven) so the gain will be around 1.0 (SMX and SeymourAV state 1.1 & 1.2 but I've read they are both about the same and at near 1.0 levels) but if I have to go down to a 120" wide then I will.

My throw range CAN be somewhere between 14' & 17'. I've been keeping an eye out on all of the latest projectors for the next year, but to be honest, I really don't know what to get. At this screen size I will need a projector that can put out enough light to fill it, so I'm sure a lot of you will suggest a DLP. I also need to keep in mind CIH methods. Zooming vs Lens. So far I'd say projectors like the JVC RS-45, Panny PT-AE7000U, Mitsubishi HC7800 would all be projectors I'd keep an eye on. I'd prefer the RS-45, but I'm not sure either it or the panny can put out the lumens I will need or not. I'd prefer to be able to support 3D.

At this time I have not yet purchased a projector, a screen, or a lens/scaler if required. Assuming my "wants", I'd appreciate setup recommendations. To include projector, lens, throw, etc. to make my pans work.
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post #266 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 12:52 PM
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Those column's look great already! How did you make the slight curve on the face? What are the accent strips made from?

I'm taking notes

The cheese fell off my cracker a long time ago...
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post #267 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 01:02 PM
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My "Monday report" will be late as I've been running around all day. All the details are forthcoming.
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post #268 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 04:44 PM
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I am really enjoying this thread. You guys are doing an awesome job! I can't wait to see some finished pictures.

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So far I'd say projectors like the JVC RS-45, Panny PT-AE7000U, Mitsubishi HC7800 would all be projectors I'd keep an eye on. I'd prefer the RS-45, but I'm not sure either it or the panny can put out the lumens I will need or not. I'd prefer to be able to support 3D.

The JVC RS-45 is going to be hard to beat IMO.

War Eagle!
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post #269 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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The JVC RS-45 is going to be hard to beat IMO.

I agree, which is why I am on the pre-order list with AVscience!
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post #270 of 2492 Old 09-19-2011, 07:07 PM
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COLUMN BUILDING DETAILS

Recalling an earlier post the columns were inspired by Sandman's original round columns. So the question was without buying half round plywood forms like Ruben, what could we do to create some roundness and strong horizontal lines like Ruben's grooves.

Here is the idea Damelon and I came up with:



A three part column with rounded out trim above and below the speaker area. The speaker area will covered with black GOM FR701.

I built a prototype of the round out area to test the look and materials



Damelon said go

First up was a cutting a bunch of wood for the square box parts. Just 4 sided boxes, no internal bracing necessary, all butt joints.





Then we needed to add a rounded bump out so I needed a bunch of round pieces.

I built a jig to do this.

Mounted a jig saw on a scrap piece of Pergo with double sided carpet seam tape.





I calculated that the radius should be 29.75 inches to get the amount of curve over a 18 inch width. So the distance from the blade to the screw pivot point is 29.75.

Then I mounted the Pergo swing arm on a little Jig



It had a shelf to rest the MDF to be cut



And I cut 36 of these guys




The round outs on the columns consist of three of these pieces glued and nailed to the face of the square column faces. Then I covered the three supports with a piece of wall paneling. It is that faux wood paneling they sell at HD cut into 6 inch strips and just used upside down. The backs actually have a nice smooth finish.





Then I added matching pieces on the sides, you can almost see in this picture:



If you look you can see the base of the column that sits on and off the riser. Had to make the base of those columns at three levels to fit.



Next I needed the bump out trim bits. I wanted something about 3/8 x 1 1/4. Of course there wasn't anything on the shelf that size so I cut down 1x2s to size. I used Tuf Board that they sell at HD. I think it is a mixture of PVC and wood dust. An 8 foot length is like a wet noodle, at 18 inches sometimes you have to use and extra finish nail or two to hold it tight until the glue dries.

I also had to round over the edges



did that with a router table



a little bit later I had enough



cut some pieces to the right length and the right miters



glued and screwed to the fronts, used a spacer for the middle trim



added the sides. Then repeat for the 108 trim pieces.



column at the riser front



The middle section was detailed earlier in the thread, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20949031 I just need to add that we did fill the metal support members with dry sand. Plugged the bottom end with a wad of insulation and sealed the bottom with black silicon seal, let dry, then Damelon poured in about two cups of sand and we topped off the last 1/2 inch with silicon seal.

full size column



column at the back of the theater



Now I need to fill the nail holes, do some wood putty work, sand, seal, sand, prime and paint.
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