The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 92 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2731 of 2746 Old 05-18-2015, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Rankin View Post
Damelon-- Have been following your build and the recent changes for a while -- very impressive.

Your recent screen size upgrade got me thinking if I could do something similar. But I have a CIH curved scope screen setup with manual masking. I built black velvet covered panels that I use to mask the right and left sides when viewing 16:9 material. The panels fit over the top of the sides of the screen using cabinet magnets that are screwed into a soffit above and soffit below the screen, so they never touch the screen material itself.

So now I am thinking about whether I could use a similar approach if I switch to a CIW setup like you did, using a flat screen instead of a curved one. I am pretty sure I could make a couple of bottom panels for horizontal masking that would just sit on the bottom soffit using magnets, similar to the approach I already use for the vertical masking. Then I would need a solution for the top, perhaps hinges that would allow two panels to swing down from the top soffit when in use to view 2.35:1 material, and something to fasten them horizontally to the soffit unobtrusively when viewing 16:9 material. Or I suppose another approach for the top might be a short, black screen that lowers down from the soffit for masking.

Thank you for the inspiration.
Dan, Thanks for the compliment! Yes, the screen I currently have does use magnets. Due to the size of the screen, they are divided up into 4 panels, so there are magnets along all of the edges of the screen frame and the panels that touch the screen frame, as well as magnets along the joining area of the panels so they sort of stick to each other. In addition, there is a small fabric flap between the two panels so that there is no gap if the fit isn't exactly perfect.

I like your idea of hinges a lot. If there is room above and below the screen, this would easily be doable. The primary thing is that you want to make sure they could flip up or down completely. In that case you wouldn't need to have 4 panels but could stick with two. This would make the masking process very easy. The top side is more complicated if you don't have the space to flip it up flap since if your scenario is like mine, it would be at an odd angle if it flipped up to the soffit itself. If they would go completely up and completely down though you could easily work it with magnets to get it to stick. It would give it an odd look when the panels are flipped open, but It would make the panel storage issue moot. You would have to get the right hinge though, or have it so the panels did not rest inside of the frame itself but over the frame. The over the frame part would be easiest, and if the frame was flush with the screen wall then it would work perfectly. You could even hide the magnets to keep it open behind some screenwall fabric. If they are both black it could blend in well, though unlike most panels, you would have to finish both sides or it wouldn't look too good when it was flipped open. Interesting idea, and one I haven't seen.

It is really too bad that once you finish a theater a certain way that modifications cost a lot. I would really like to have designed the screenwall in such a way that I could do 4 way masking but there just isn't room, which is unfortunate. In addition, I think things like hinges, snaps, and magnets are something I would have liked to use in a lot of places:
1) Make all of my panels removable via one of the methods above
2) Make my front two columns swing open with hinges, so they could be used as storage or something similar
3) Make the side panels of my screenwall swing open like doors so that I didn't have to disassemble the wall somewhat to get back there (This is actually much better with the new screen now since the sides are now velcro fit vs friction. I will likely change this to magnets
4) Make at least the major parts of the light tray detachable or swing down for access

These are all minor things, but once you have used a room for years you think of what you could have done to make it better. If you have room to improve, why not? Make sure that if you do attempt your changes that you post a link here to let me know so people can follow up on your work!
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post #2732 of 2746 Old 05-18-2015, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
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Here are some of todays pictures. I have only adjusted the basics like sharpness, brightness, contrast but the Nikon program shows a different image than windows photo viewer so they end up a little darker. At least in these you begin to get some of that 3D effect



Great pictures of the star ceiling. I've tried a couple times with mediocre to no success. Could you share what settings you used on the Nikon and any other tips.. How many layers did you splice together?

My in progress build thread: Hidden in Bethesda
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post #2733 of 2746 Old 05-18-2015, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Great pictures of the star ceiling. I've tried a couple times with mediocre to no success. Could you share what settings you used on the Nikon and any other tips.. How many layers did you splice together?
Actually, I don't know how to use Photoshop, and I don't know how to do layers. Those are single photos. I adjusted the sharpness/brightness/contrast slightly with the Nikon software that came with my camera. I have a friend in my office who said if I re-took them as raw files he would touch them up for me if I wanted, but I haven't had a change to re-take them.

I didn't do much at all with the camera. I got a Nikon D5300, which is a decent mid range camera. I used my wife's tripod, which is a very good quality tripod and easy to manipulate. The one that came with my camera package was junk. I turned off auto-focus and manually focused the camera to the best of my ability on the far soffit from where I had the camera. I had only the floor black light on in the center of the room angled up and the ceiling pre-charged. (Hence why you get the purple light hues on the ceiling and the soffit) left the soffit lights on, but not at a dimmed setting. (I had no luck really with all of the lights out) I set the camera to Aperture mode and left it at F8. I believe the default ISO is 100. I actually didn't figure out how to disable the flash in manual mode, so I believe I set it to slow flash. I think what happened is that it either pre or post flashed quickly (Which lights up some areas of the background) but then took about the full 30 seconds to gather the light for the photo. You have to understand, I am a complete novice when it comes to cameras. The fact that I even know ISO/Aperture is that I googled how to take night pictures the day that I took them. In fact that was the first day I ever even used this camera. It was an impulse buy after I couldn't get it right with my wife's D90. I think the moment that some started coming out ok was when I got excited and posted them here. I still haven't been able to get a full dark photo to work, which is what I tried with the D90. The slow flash may have actually been what made it work for me.

Last edited by damelon; 05-18-2015 at 04:23 PM.
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post #2734 of 2746 Old 05-27-2015, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post
Here are some of todays pictures. I have only adjusted the basics like sharpness, brightness, contrast but the Nikon program shows a different image than windows photo viewer so they end up a little darker. At least in these you begin to get some of that 3D effect









very nice...how did you make those stars in the ceiling?
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post #2735 of 2746 Old 05-27-2015, 09:11 PM
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post #2736 of 2746 Old 05-28-2015, 08:18 PM
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post #2737 of 2746 Old 05-28-2015, 08:44 PM
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Nice star mural you got in your theater room.
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post #2738 of 2746 Old 05-29-2015, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice star mural you got in your theater room.
Thanks! The mural was done by Jeff @ NightSkyMurals. He did an excellent job!
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post #2739 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Someone asked me today how I mounted my panels to my wall, to which I replied "glue and nails". Some of the panels that spanned the entire distance between two columns couldn't just be pushed straight on the wall, they had to be slid vertically to get behind the ribs of the columns. Anyway, we discussed velcro and magnets for being able to remove them at some point but never did it. I mentioned that I would have used the "snap on" parts, but I don't know what those are called. (The ones with the little spheres that stick out) Does anyone know what those snap parts are called and where to get them?
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post #2740 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 06:09 AM
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post #2741 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Something like that, but I think I have seen them so that the female end is recessed.
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post #2742 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 06:20 AM
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that would be the speaker grill guides

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...-pair--260-367

Problem is I think they would rip right out of drywall holes.

For lemonade the wall panels were 100% Velcro, stapled to both the wall and the frames, but it too pulls off the wall, but not hard to reattach and less damaging than nails and glue.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; Yesterday at 06:28 AM.
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post #2743 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 06:25 AM
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Think I've seen those too though my Google-fue is failing me this morning. (Edit: Big beat me to them, should have refreshed before replying ).
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post #2744 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 06:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
that would be the speaker grill guides

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...-pair--260-367

Problem is I think they would rip right out of drywall holes.

For lemonade the wall panels were 100% Velcro, stapled to both the wall and the frames, but it too pulls off the wall, but not hard to reattach and less damaging than nails and glue.
Yeah those are them. I thought about them ripping out of the walls too. Both on the velcro and the snap options. The magnets seem like they would be able to work without damage, but the weight is such on a large panel that it would require vertical support on the weight or the magnet would have to be way too strong. I think it could have worked with mine since they are floor to ceiling and the weight would support each other, but embedding the magnet in the wall would be a little more complicated. It would almost need a slightly raised piece put on the walls, like wood trim first.... in which case the panels would come off but then you would still have that trim on the walls. Attaching anything to drywall is always iffy
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post #2745 of 2746 Old Yesterday, 07:31 PM
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Cinemar System

Thank you for your reply sir.

Is anyone here using the same system used in "Cinemar Build"?

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post #2746 of 2746 Old Today, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for your reply sir.

Is anyone here using the same system used in "Cinemar Build"?

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There are a few people here who have used his system or done something very similar, but the best bet would be to just ask Mario himself (Cinemar). He is very active here on the forums and since it is his actual software, he can provide you with the best information.
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