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Old 06-14-2016, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
When do I move in?

I don't mean to take away from the overall awesomeness of this, but what I like the most, at least from a project planning perspective, is that you took time to plan out how the space would look at night, and not just during the day.

In full sunlight it is absolutely beautiful, but at night a lot of people would have just put up some basic lighting. You took time to plan out the color, uplighting, etc to make it look like a great place to party or just chill out when the sun goes down.
Thanks! Trust me, when I get into "Project Mode" I am always trying to think of everything I might want in the future. I gave myself headaches many times during this project trying to plan it all out. Our new trees still need up-lighting, but we are going to try some solar ones on those trees because I don't want to dig more wires after the new sod has been put down. At night is really when the whole thing stands out, and photos are harder to take then. The water reflects onto the back of the white house, so it looks like the whole house ripples. The palm trees behind the pool, though fake, look amazing when lit up at night. And of course, we have a lot of frogs! Still... trying to figure out where all the wiring would go, the speakers, the lights, etc drove me nuts, because after the concrete is poured, a lot of options become closed. I had to make sure conduit was put in at some points, and at others it is just direct burial. I did get all of the lighting wiring behind the pool put in before the put in the rock though!

I still need to figure out how to clean the patio properly to get rid of the "white" areas from the concrete dust and calcium deposits, because it all vanishes when it is wet and you can't tell if you cleaned it or not during power washing.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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So now that I have posted my completed photos... I can post some of the "Disaster" Photos from the big storms we had during construction!

You can see how the lack of grading, and the missing french drain resulted during the first big storm....



This also resulted in the weep holes letting water run through, which shouldn't happen. They ended up having to fix the grading, the hydrostatic drain, and putting in a trench drain at the end of the driveway. There is also a french drain now against the wall which diverts water into the woods



And there were some places the pool rock wall needed to be sealed. This was corrected a week later.



The drain inside of the planter was not yet hooked up, and the rock not added. It turned into a small pool by itself



Before the driveway trench drain was put in, you can see a literal river of water coming off of my driveway and down the hill. It was crazy!



Needless to say, at the time it happened, I flipped out! I was sending pictures and messages non-stop to the patio developer. They did some grading to try and fix it, and then added a trench drain. We had another storm the day they were installing the sod, and realized that they had made mistakes in the trench drain, and that their revised grading actually had issues too. Fortunately, the landscaping company was there when it happened, and helped by fixing the grading and putting in a french drain. I still need to put in a larger trench drain at the end of the driveway, but even until then, the addition of the french drain, the sod, and the drain grates along the wall will help channel the water away if we have another huge storm.

Last edited by damelon; 06-14-2016 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Pool Automation : Next Steps

So Now that my system is up and running using iAqualink, I still have some final steps. Primarily, it involves adding the temperature sensors and the valve actuators. I am not sure if I will purchase or use valve actuators yet.

Here is the plumbing as is now:



The air temperature sensor is a simple hook-up. It will not require any sort of work other than screwing it into the main RS Control Board. The water temperature sensor is a little more complicated. To install it, I would drill a 3/8" hole in the PVC pipe for the main pool filter, install the sensor (with o-ring) in the hole, and tighten it using a steel gear clamp. I am hesitant to drill any holes in my PVC, but I have watched the videos and it seems straight forward.

The valve actuators, if I choose to install them would take the place of the manual valve handles pictured above. Basically there are 3 screws where the actuator screws into the top of the valve instead of the handle, and then it can be programmed on a one touch control on the application. Personally, I am not sure I will use them, because the only need to turn the handles is when doing maintenance, which requires you to be at the pool equipment anyway.... so I am not sure there is a need for them.

The last piece would be to install the heater control wire, so I can adjust the pool temp from the phone/app vs just being on at a set temp like a thermostat.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Since I have been asked several times, the 3 palm trees behind the pool were from www.tropicalexpressions.com - They are their 9 foot tall Queen Palms, and they usually run a promotion for a discount for multiple trees in the same order. They were relatively easy to assemble and shipped quickly. From people who come by the house, the trunks are what really stand out. People love the trunks and comment on how real they look. The palm fronds can look a bit like plastic, but they are also require no maintenance and can survive in the winter. They also look incredible with uplighting at night and give the pool a "Resort" type of feel. It is amazing to walk out my back door onto the deck and see the whole patio lit up. It is like being transported to another place. Keep in mind, I do have a windmill palm tree, which is winter hardy, and it still requires a lot of care in the winter months. At the price point, and for the feel, these trees have been a home run and everyone who comes to the house loves them. The company does sell many other kinds of palm trees, but these were the ones we liked best.

The picture below is from their website, which is a little weird since there seems to be this 1 foot gap between where the top of the trunk "bark" is and the fronds. If you look at my trees, the fronds don't seem to start so high up as they do in the below picture.


Last edited by damelon; 06-17-2016 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:49 PM
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really nice job d. came out awesome! ur night lighting is awesome! the fireplace i think is a perfect size. i know you said about it not being as wide but i think t's scaled perfect. water i hate water! i would have been glad to have gotten that rain during all this cause you found ur problems. i know it sucked but better then than later. ya know. how do you like the deckadrain before your kitchen. does it really work? a few people have mentioned these to me but i just don't think it can pick up water fast enough compared to a trough drain that is wider. so how was theater leaking into the pool taken care of? i assume drains behind the rocks and a downward sloping of this higher area away from the pool? this is the one area we are still milling with. weather to do like you did with rock or more deck space and then just sloping down off my property line to the future lots behind me. we don't need the deck space so like you did would be nice. i'm throwing around raised planters too with all flowers with a retaining wall at my property line edge. i can really care less about future neighbors. i'm here first so i'll take the high ground. that's my other issue too. my side neighbor. nice guy, but i do't want to have my pool house as low as his yard so i'm thinking of coming up 18 inches and sloping off into him over 10 feet. that shouldn't be a problem. i would like to make it even more but i don't want be that guy too much. i can always french drain it out to the the back like i did on the other side of my house cause my neighbors contractor was an idiot and put them too low so i put in a french drain down our property line with my buddy so they don't get crushed. keep water off my drive too but deff saves their basement cause of the stupid windows they put it. did they offer me anything for it. not a cent. just asked when i was going to plant the grass again. lol ya so that's why i kinda can care less about the neighbors with my changes. just keeping the water way away from me.

enjoy man enjoy!
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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really nice job d. came out awesome! ur night lighting is awesome! the fireplace i think is a perfect size. i know you said about it not being as wide but i think t's scaled perfect. water i hate water! i would have been glad to have gotten that rain during all this cause you found ur problems. i know it sucked but better then than later. ya know. how do you like the deckadrain before your kitchen. does it really work? a few people have mentioned these to me but i just don't think it can pick up water fast enough compared to a trough drain that is wider. so how was theater leaking into the pool taken care of? i assume drains behind the rocks and a downward sloping of this higher area away from the pool? this is the one area we are still milling with. weather to do like you did with rock or more deck space and then just sloping down off my property line to the future lots behind me. we don't need the deck space so like you did would be nice. i'm throwing around raised planters too with all flowers with a retaining wall at my property line edge. i can really care less about future neighbors. i'm here first so i'll take the high ground. that's my other issue too. my side neighbor. nice guy, but i do't want to have my pool house as low as his yard so i'm thinking of coming up 18 inches and sloping off into him over 10 feet. that shouldn't be a problem. i would like to make it even more but i don't want be that guy too much. i can always french drain it out to the the back like i did on the other side of my house cause my neighbors contractor was an idiot and put them too low so i put in a french drain down our property line with my buddy so they don't get crushed. keep water off my drive too but deff saves their basement cause of the stupid windows they put it. did they offer me anything for it. not a cent. just asked when i was going to plant the grass again. lol ya so that's why i kinda can care less about the neighbors with my changes. just keeping the water way away from me.

enjoy man enjoy!
Thanks! Yes, my wife and I both agree that we are happy it happened when it did so we could get it corrected in time. The deck-drains work fine. Water in those locations is never bad, it only is what falls right there on the patio, so it doesn't need anything more than that to collect water. The larger drains are where standing water can pool up or run into the patio area. End of Driveway, Behind Walls, etc. They dug out the space behind the wall and patched the concrete there to fill the holes. The wall itself is supposed to be a...wall to stop water behind the pool. Before the landscaping, the ground was flat and muddy there, but they raised it a little and then added the rocks behind it. Again, behind that the hill falls down the other direction, so I wasn't really worried about water there. It was mostly because things weren't finished yet and filled in along with that they had missed a few spots. In the end, I really do like the fireplace. It looks nice, it just feels a little small when you sit there. In contrast, the fire pit is HUGE. 54" inner diameter! We've built some big fires in there and there is plenty of room all the way around. I was also worried the wall might be high but it is perfect. People sit on it all the time. We are really happy with it. We're having a pretty good thunderstorm right now and no issues. Our water issues are things of the past, but man can it cause problems!
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:02 AM
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Since I have been asked several times, the 3 palm trees behind the pool were from www.tropicalexpressions.com - They are their 9 foot tall Queen Palms, and they usually run a promotion for a discount for multiple trees in the same order. They were relatively easy to assemble and shipped quickly.

Are they also cel towers for better wireless reception?
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Are they also cel towers for better wireless reception?
Hah! I've seen those! I wish they were. We're right between the end range of towers from two counties since we're near a river. Could use the signal boost!
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:06 AM
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I should get some of those fake trees for my pool. That would be pretty sweet!

My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I should get some of those fake trees for my pool. That would be pretty sweet!
We have talked about them to a lot of people since we finished this up in the past couple of weeks, and they all love them. They come in 2 pieces. The trunks, and the fronds (Which all come sticking straight up out of the box) You need to buy an additional 7 foot long black metal pipe from home depot, which needs to be buried 3 feet into the ground without concrete. The trunk slides over that, and the crown on top of that. Then you just need to bend the fronds to your liking. They explain what looks best on a sheet that comes with them. Sometimes with very high wind they can get moved around a bit so you might need to re-manipulate them from time to time, but there is something to be said about a tree that will never die and requires no watering! It really does transform the look of the space though, and they are a major focal point of the pool, especially at night! I love them! The only thing my wife complains about is that I didn't buy the optional coconuts to hang on them. Maybe I will order some.

Also, they do sell a kit of 2 of them which is pre-made for a hammock to be strung between them. Also a neat idea!
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Pool Automation : Lights

So I thought I'd post one more tidbit of information regarding my iAqualink system and my LED pool lights, which are Hayward Universal Color Logic lights. Aqualink officially supports Hayward ColorLogic, which is the older model, but the newest Universal Color Logic lights have more color choices. This means that when you pick a color, it has to cycle through the colors to get to the proper one. If the colors don't match, it won't cycle properly. I contacted Zodiac support about this, and they told me that it is not supported "As Is" but could attempt to flash my firmware remotely to where it would be upgraded to the Universal Color Logic. Due to however my security settings are, he was unable to flash it remotely. But he will ship me the new chip (Revision T.2) with the caveat that a "certified installer" puts it in. (Since that is their policy) He will also ship a return label so that I can return the existing chip. I will probably do it myself as it should be easy given my background, but if it involves anything like soldering, then I will of course call someone as I don't want to ruin it. I have a feeling it will be a pin connector chip of some kind and a piece of cake. Now I just need to wait for it! Until then, changing my lighting color is flaky but I can live with that short term.

So, the lessons are :
  • Hayward Color Logic is not the same as Hayward Universal Color Logic
  • Zodiac technical support is awesome and I endorse their products.
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:56 PM
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I love this theater! Great Design!
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:08 AM - Thread Starter
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And here is the first attempt at a time-lapse video of the pool construction, from initial dig to the day I installed the palm trees. Unfortunately I didn't keep it going for landscaping, and the field of view leaves out portions on the sides, but parts of it are really cool to watch. A few days I had to restart my computer and forgot to re-capture the app, so there are some days missed here and there, and the timing of the start/stop of photography wasn't always in sync to when the workers showed up, so there are jumps on occasion. I also encoded it at 1/4 size, so if you think I need a higher resolution or a clearer encoding, I can do that too.


I will try to make a better one, shortening it up in places where not a lot happens, and adding an audio track, but at least this is it un-cut.
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:48 PM
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I met with a concrete pool guy on Friday. We talked at the end making sure I'm setup to automate. He said he uses the iaqualink also. But I am to understand that is only to get control of the main brain correct. The thats from zodiac? So the iaqua talks to the zodiac? The zodiac talks with all pieces in system. Lights, temp sensors, pumps, heater control, what about the sLt generator? Can you control and see what's up with that to make sure all levels are appropriate and make changes so u don't need to go to your pump station. Are their any other pieces I'm missing? Ur robot for cleaning is separate I assume. I'm trying to o understand all this.

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Old 06-20-2016, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I met with a concrete pool guy on Friday. We talked at the end making sure I'm setup to automate. He said he uses the iaqualink also. But I am to understand that is only to get control of the main brain correct. The thats from zodiac? So the iaqua talks to the zodiac? The zodiac talks with all pieces in system. Lights, temp sensors, pumps, heater control, what about the sLt generator? Can you control and see what's up with that to make sure all levels are appropriate and make changes so u don't need to go to your pump station. Are their any other pieces I'm missing? Ur robot for cleaning is separate I assume. I'm trying to o understand all this.
So keep in mind, none of my pool initially was setup to do automation. So there was nothing special that needed to be done to "prep" it for that. Fortunately, because of how they mounted all of my timer boxes and enclosures, I had plenty of room to mount the aqualink kit from where it was so I didn't need to put in anything extra. The only major thing is to make sure you use one of the lights supported by iAqualink if you want to change colors. (Hayward, Jandy, and Pentair all have lights supported, just check the models)

To answer your questions : The automation system is in two parts. The physical control board, which is what everything plugs into, and the iAqualink. The physical board can be one of several products. My pool installer when I called him kept saying they sell the "PDA" unit which comes with a waterproof remote. This just costs extra and is not required. All you need is one of the RS controllers (4, 6, or 8 depending on how many independently power switched devices you want to hook up to your control center) and the iAqualink, which is really just the internet interface to the RS controller. I have a commercial strength access point in my attic so I could use the wireless with full bars at my pool equipment location, but it does support a wired connection if you don't and decide to bury a CAT-6 there.

The iAqualink is setup by registering an account on their cloud site (free), and adding your device id (free) - From there, you can setup all of your system using the web client. Once you download the app on your iphone/android, you can turn on/off all of the things you setup through the web interface. There is no need at all to purchase the "One Touch" Panels, the PDA, etc. If your pool company tries to sell you that, only buy it if you really want it. Some people might want a panel on the inside wall of their house going to their pool, or they want the remote so they don't have to mess with their phone. The PDA IMO is a waste of money. May as well use a phone there. I can see the value of the wall unit in the house though, it would just cost more to install. Both the pool company and the electrician I called had never setup an automation system without the PDA/OneTouch units, so they didn't know how they would be programmed without it. The truth is that you can do all of the programming on the web client, and that you can still turn on/off all of your stuff from the control box buttons in the case you didn't have access to the app for some reason.

The Control board goes inside of one of their power enclosures. There are two different kinds. One which you can also put breaker boxes into, and one that you would use if you already would have a subpanel at your pool equipment for breakers. Since I already had a subpanel, I only needed the standard. I was also able to get a good discount on the RS4 "Bundle" they sell because of that. They sell other products, like the Z4, but I'd recommend the "RS" units.

Now when I mentioned the differences between the RS4,RS6,RS8 and said that the number is the number of independently switched power devices... that can be a little confusing. Because I have an RS-4, and yet I have:
1) Filter Pump
2) Waterfall Pump
3) Cleaner Pump
4) Two Lights
5) Heater
6) Salt Chlorinator

That could be as many as 7 hookups (If you wanted the lights to be able to be different colors) but I only use 4. That's because the salt chlorinator is wired to my filter pump as well since it can only run when it does. My heater does the same thing. Both of those actually use little to no power at all. So they basically tie in to the LOAD (or output) for the same switch that the filter pump does. The iAqualink also supports variable speed pumps, so you can control the speed with the app too, but all of my pumps are static speed.

Things like the air sensor, water sensor, heater temp control, etc can all be wired into a different part of the control board. Those aren't switched power, they are just a low voltage power connection that is always on when the automation equipment is on. (Which is always) You can also hook it up to your salt chlorinator as well (Which is also Zodiac in my case) if you want to up the levels, or perform a shock/boost. I didn't hook this up to the automation system to turn it on. It has its own brain already and can do its job without me messing with it. When your pool gets installed, if it is concrete, they won't even use your salt chlorinator for 4-6 weeks or so. (So the plaster can cure) When they do your salt indoctrination, they will program the unit. Then it will routinely chlorinate your pool automatically. The only thing you need to really check on pretty often is that your pH is correct. If your pH is in range, your chlorine is 90% effective. If the pH is out of range, the chlorine effectiveness drops to really low levels, like 10%. That is the primary reason so many public pools feel over-chlorinated most of the time. They can't keep the pH in check and have to just dump chlorine into them. Materials to raise pH (soda ash) and lower pH (muriatic acid) are cheap. (You can even buy huge bottles of the acid at lowes/HD for like $5. I have never had to raise my pH yet, just lower it, so I have plenty of Muriatic acid on hand. In fact, my pool is very well balanced other than that, so pH is the only thing I have had to adjust.

It also supports tie-ins to things like landscaping lights. If you had a transformer you could wire it up so that its input power was wired up to one of the switches as well. This is only reasonable if you want to turn them on/off on demand. My lighting is on timers on the transformers anyway.

The cleaner I have is not a robot. In fact, even the guy at the pool company told me robots are pretty gimicky and go bad over time. Not worth the money. The cleaner I have is a Polaris 3900 Sport. It has no power, it just plugs into a water plug on the side of the pool and does its job. Between that and the skimmers, the pool has stayed clean. That being said, I've read a lot of reviews that really talk up the Polaris and Dolphin robot cleaners... keep in mind though, they need to be charged, they have mechanical parts, and that means they can fail/break. I looked at them pretty hard, but I opted for a pool cleaner that I only remove from the pool if I have a party. Otherwise I just leave it in the pool all of the time, and it cleans when i want it to. The upside to a robot is that it doesn't have the hose connected to it when it IS in the pool. I've barely had my pool for a month and the more hands off work, the better, in my opinion.

The biggest thing for me was that when I purchased my pool, they said that the automation upgrade would be $3,500. I said no, that is too expensive. Then when I found the deal for all of the equipment I needed for $700 (With the additional cost of electrical materials like wire and conduit) I called an electrician who said they charge $2000 for the hookup. Still too expensive! That's why I did it myself as I am comfortable with electrical work.

Last edited by damelon; 06-20-2016 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:38 AM
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So keep in mind, none of my pool initially was setup to do automation. So there was nothing special that needed to be done to "prep" it for that. Fortunately, because of how they mounted all of my timer boxes and enclosures, I had plenty of room to mount the aqualink kit from where it was so I didn't need to put in anything extra. The only major thing is to make sure you use one of the lights supported by iAqualink if you want to change colors. (Hayward, Jandy, and Pentair all have lights supported, just check the models)

To answer your questions : The automation system is in two parts. The physical control board, which is what everything plugs into, and the iAqualink. The physical board can be one of several products. My pool installer when I called him kept saying they sell the "PDA" unit which comes with a waterproof remote. This just costs extra and is not required. All you need is one of the RS controllers (4, 6, or 8 depending on how many independently power switched devices you want to hook up to your control center) and the iAqualink, which is really just the internet interface to the RS controller. I have a commercial strength access point in my attic so I could use the wireless with full bars at my pool equipment location, but it does support a wired connection if you don't and decide to bury a CAT-6 there.


The iAqualink is setup by registering an account on their cloud site (free), and adding your device id (free) - From there, you can setup all of your system using the web client. Once you download the app on your iphone/android, you can turn on/off all of the things you setup through the web interface. There is no need at all to purchase the "One Touch" Panels, the PDA, etc. If your pool company tries to sell you that, only buy it if you really want it. Some people might want a panel on the inside wall of their house going to their pool, or they want the remote so they don't have to mess with their phone. The PDA IMO is a waste of money. May as well use a phone there. I can see the value of the wall unit in the house though, it would just cost more to install. Both the pool company and the electrician I called had never setup an automation system without the PDA/OneTouch units, so they didn't know how they would be programmed without it. The truth is that you can do all of the programming on the web client, and that you can still turn on/off all of your stuff from the control box buttons in the case you didn't have access to the app for some reason.

The Control board goes inside of one of their power enclosures. There are two different kinds. One which you can also put breaker boxes into, and one that you would use if you already would have a subpanel at your pool equipment for breakers. Since I already had a subpanel, I only needed the standard. I was also able to get a good discount on the RS4 "Bundle" they sell because of that. They sell other products, like the Z4, but I'd recommend the "RS" units.

Now when I mentioned the differences between the RS4,RS6,RS8 and said that the number is the number of independently switched power devices... that can be a little confusing. Because I have an RS-4, and yet I have:
1) Filter Pump
2) Waterfall Pump
3) Cleaner Pump
4) Two Lights
5) Heater
6) Salt Chlorinator

That could be as many as 7 hookups (If you wanted the lights to be able to be different colors) but I only use 4. That's because the salt chlorinator is wired to my filter pump as well since it can only run when it does. My heater does the same thing. Both of those actually use little to no power at all. So they basically tie in to the LOAD (or output) for the same switch that the filter pump does. The iAqualink also supports variable speed pumps, so you can control the speed with the app too, but all of my pumps are static speed.

Things like the air sensor, water sensor, heater temp control, etc can all be wired into a different part of the control board. Those aren't switched power, they are just a low voltage power connection that is always on when the automation equipment is on. (Which is always) You can also hook it up to your salt chlorinator as well (Which is also Zodiac in my case) if you want to up the levels, or perform a shock/boost. I didn't hook this up to the automation system to turn it on. It has its own brain already and can do its job without me messing with it. When your pool gets installed, if it is concrete, they won't even use your salt chlorinator for 4-6 weeks or so. (So the plaster can cure) When they do your salt indoctrination, they will program the unit. Then it will routinely chlorinate your pool automatically. The only thing you need to really check on pretty often is that your pH is correct. If your pH is in range, your chlorine is 90% effective. If the pH is out of range, the chlorine effectiveness drops to really low levels, like 10%. That is the primary reason so many public pools feel over-chlorinated most of the time. They can't keep the pH in check and have to just dump chlorine into them. Materials to raise pH (soda ash) and lower pH (muriatic acid) are cheap. (You can even buy huge bottles of the acid at lowes/HD for like $5. I have never had to raise my pH yet, just lower it, so I have plenty of Muriatic acid on hand. In fact, my pool is very well balanced other than that, so pH is the only thing I have had to adjust.

It also supports tie-ins to things like landscaping lights. If you had a transformer you could wire it up so that its input power was wired up to one of the switches as well. This is only reasonable if you want to turn them on/off on demand. My lighting is on timers on the transformers anyway.

The cleaner I have is not a robot. In fact, even the guy at the pool company told me robots are pretty gimicky and go bad over time. Not worth the money. The cleaner I have is a Polaris 3900 Sport. It has no power, it just plugs into a water plug on the side of the pool and does its job. Between that and the skimmers, the pool has stayed clean. That being said, I've read a lot of reviews that really talk up the Polaris and Dolphin robot cleaners... keep in mind though, they need to be charged, they have mechanical parts, and that means they can fail/break. I looked at them pretty hard, but I opted for a pool cleaner that I only remove from the pool if I have a party. Otherwise I just leave it in the pool all of the time, and it cleans when i want it to. The upside to a robot is that it doesn't have the hose connected to it when it IS in the pool. I've barely had my pool for a month and the more hands off work, the better, in my opinion.

The biggest thing for me was that when I purchased my pool, they said that the automation upgrade would be $3,500. I said no, that is too expensive. Then when I found the deal for all of the equipment I needed for $700 (With the additional cost of electrical materials like wire and conduit) I called an electrician who said they charge $2000 for the hookup. Still too expensive! That's why I did it myself as I am comfortable with electrical work.
Sensors. Water sensor? For its temp. Heater sensor? For what it is compared to water temp?

Thanks for the robot into. I'll get on that.

So I'll talk to him about the amount of power needed based on what u said.

Ah man a lot of info.

Good to know about the salt machine be cause I really don't want to have to do much for this pool. Lol

The guys u used come Wednesday. Then I can compare the two guys but I was pretty comfortable with my last guy cause he liked the idea of just doing the pool and working with my buddy's excavation company and my subs for everything else.

Jim
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Sensors. Water sensor? For its temp. Heater sensor? For what it is compared to water temp?

Thanks for the robot into. I'll get on that.

So I'll talk to him about the amount of power needed based on what u said.

Ah man a lot of info.

Good to know about the salt machine be cause I really don't want to have to do much for this pool. Lol

The guys u used come Wednesday. Then I can compare the two guys but I was pretty comfortable with my last guy cause he liked the idea of just doing the pool and working with my buddy's excavation company and my subs for everything else.

Jim
There are 2 typical temperature sensors. One to measure the temp of the water, one for the ambient air temperature. There is also a command wire which you can hook up to the heater in order to turn it on/off or set the temp of the heater via remote as well. At the moment, I have not yet hooked up the capability to control the heater independently using the aqualink. It simply turns on when the filter pump is on, and heats if the temp is below 82.

For the robot part, this is only based on what the guys told me. They did sell them, but they didn't recommend them. Even a pump based cleaner requires power to run the pump. The difference is that you don't have to recharge it and manually put it in and take it out of the pool when you want to clean. The pump-based cleaner can just clean automatically every day. All you need to do is empty out the catch bag from time to time.

Salt machine makes a lot of sense. The full chemical automation is a little harder to justify cost-wise. You will have to check your pH weekly and add acid/ash as necessary to see if the pH is balanced.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:19 PM
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There are 2 typical temperature sensors. One to measure the temp of the water, one for the ambient air temperature. There is also a command wire which you can hook up to the heater in order to turn it on/off or set the temp of the heater via remote as well. At the moment, I have not yet hooked up the capability to control the heater independently using the aqualink. It simply turns on when the filter pump is on, and heats if the temp is below 82.

For the robot part, this is only based on what the guys told me. They did sell them, but they didn't recommend them. Even a pump based cleaner requires power to run the pump. The difference is that you don't have to recharge it and manually put it in and take it out of the pool when you want to clean. The pump-based cleaner can just clean automatically every day. All you need to do is empty out the catch bag from time to time.

Salt machine makes a lot of sense. The full chemical automation is a little harder to justify cost-wise. You will have to check your pH weekly and add acid/ash as necessary to see if the pH is balanced.
when you say full chemical automation what are you referring to? you lost me?
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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when you say full chemical automation what are you referring to? you lost me?
There are automated systems that do additional chemicals other than chlorine, such as adjusting pH.
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Update : After a phone call to Zodiac technical support earlier in the week, I received a quick delivery of an updated control board chip for my Aqualink system. They had previously tried to flash my firmware remotely to support my Universal Color Logic lights but it didn't take. Chip arrived, I swapped it out in 5 minutes, and my lights change colors properly from my phone. Awesome support! The pool lights aren't like an LED strip, where you push a color and it is instantly that color... it has to cycle through the colors each time to get to the designated color, and the cycle is always in order. Takes up to 30 seconds depending on the color you switch to, but it's still a nice feature.
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Old 07-02-2016, 05:47 PM
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I used to watch Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. Now I just come here to the Theater Design forum. Same idea. Way better.
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I used to watch Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. Now I just come here to the Theater Design forum. Same idea. Way better.
Except here it would be called Lifestyles of the overworked and indebted!
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I love this home theater, it is beautiful! Maybe some day I might have something reasonably close to that.

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