Fabric Attachment to Wall - Please critique - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 07-31-2011, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I am planning on covering my theater walls with GOM, probably Anchorage. I am considering how to attach to the walls, and came up with the process shown and outlined below. This is based on my understanding of some very detailed threads I've read through and trying to translate it into something I think I can do. Can you please critique? I want to make sure I've thought through this completely. By the way, I am planning on using 1" Linacoustic up to ear height and poly backing the rest of the way up the wall, but since I think I understand how to install that, I left it out of this process.

Material
GOM Anchorage Fabric
2x2 Pine Furring Strips
Staples
Floor Trim
Crown Molding

Steps

1. Attach Furring Strip #1 to wall
2. Attach Furring Strip #2 to wall
3. Attach top & bottom strips between #1 and #2
4. Staple fabric to Furring strip #1 on the face/top of the board (this strip will be covered by false wall for Screen)
5. Stretch fabric to strip #2 and staple to the right side of the board
6. Staple top and bottom of the fabric to face of top & bottom furring strips
7. Mount furring strip #4 (yes, skipping to 4 on purpose)
9. Attach fabric to left side of furring strip #3 BEFORE mounting to wall
9. Mount furring strip #3 directly beside #2 to make the seam
10. Stretch fabric to strip #4 and staple to the right side of the board
11. Staple top and bottom of the fabric to face of top & bottom furring strips between 3 & 4
12. Repeat steps 7 - 11 for the length of the wall
13. Install trim and crown molding to cover staples in top & bottom furring boards

QUESTIONS
A. Does anyone see a flaw in this technique?
B. Are 2x2 pine boards acceptable for this application?
C. I think this would result in a good look, but worry about "undoing" the install for a repair or if I needed to adjust the acoustic material underneath
D. I still need to figure out how to do the terminal edge
LL
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post #2 of 5 Old 07-31-2011, 08:11 AM
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If you have a table saw you will want to cut the 2x2s down to one inch thickness. The linacoustic is one inch and having the air gap is just a waste of space. If you have a table saw you should just buy 2x4s and rip 3 furring strips out of each board. In this area 2x2s are basically junk with lots of knots and don't stay straight. I would look for premium 2x4 studs and rip them.

TERMINAL EDGE: On the very last panel you could make a furring frame off wall, wrap and staple on the sides or back and pop it into place. When you do this allow two thicknesses of fabric in your measurement or you will have a really hard time popping it into place.
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post #3 of 5 Old 07-31-2011, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, what if just buy 1x2s? If not that, then I like the idea of buying a 2x4 and ripping into several strips.

On your terminal edge suggestion, are you saying I should make a 4 sided frame for the last section versus attached strips? If so, how do you recommend attaching that frame to the wall without screws/nails showing on the outside of the frame?
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post #4 of 5 Old 07-31-2011, 10:47 AM
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1x2's are only a solution if you will be covering the furring strips with molding. They are only 3/4 inch thick and there will be bulging edges. Not a problem behind a chair rail but you have vertical seams.

The last panel you use some finishing nails to hold it in place and set the nail head below the surface of the fabric with a nail set. Or use a little construction adhesive.
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post #5 of 5 Old 08-07-2011, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback guys!

Another question - should I have my carpet installed before or after I put up the fabric wall? I want to put in carpet last so it doesn't get messed up by construction activity, so should I leave a 1/2" or so under the bottom furring strip so they can tuck it in? If I ever want to take down the fabric wall and furring strips, I don't want a gap between the underlying wall and carpet.
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