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post #121 of 363 Old 05-28-2012, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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This is a picture of the back -



I think Brad is right and it's 1x4 poplar and strengthened by hollow 1x1 metal square stock running all along it. I think if someone had some leftover hard wood flooring they could use it to make a similar screen, depending on how big you needed to go.

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post #122 of 363 Old 05-28-2012, 03:22 PM
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That looks pretty straight forward. Thanks for posting.
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post #123 of 363 Old 05-29-2012, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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We might have found a carpet that we like. I'm always afraid to try the patterned carpets because I'm very particular about seeing the seams. This carpet is supposed to come in 15 foot width rather than 12, they should be able to install it in the theater with no seams. It looks a lot lighter in this picture than it does at the store.


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post #124 of 363 Old 05-29-2012, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm working on the lighting in the room this week, it will be nice not to have to rely on shop lights every time I want to work in the theater.

There are 3 lighting runs in the room, each controlled from a separate switch. One is the lighting behind the screen, which would only be used to show people the speakers, will hardly ever get used. The second is the main lighting for the room, 4 mini halogens right in front of the screen and 6 sconces along the side walls. The last one is the 2 step lights in the riser.

This is the strip of lighting I bought to go behind the screen:



They look like the same mini halogens that are in the can lights that go in front of the screen. There are 5x 50w halogens on this strip of lighting. Since the front wall will have 2 inches of OC703, I need to do something to mount that row of lighting out from the wall. I cut a 2x4 and drilled a hole through the middle to allow the electrical wire through. I'll paint it black and mount a pancake box to it, then attach the lighting to the 2x4.



I've got an electrician buddy coming to check things out Thursday, I *think* this should be fine and safe, I don't see anything glaringly wrong with the idea, but I don't want to burn my house down.

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post #125 of 363 Old 05-29-2012, 07:18 PM
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I did not plan ahead of time for lighting behind the screen, but I think I will add them before I get too far along. Hardwiring to a switch would not be the easiest thing for me to do at this point in time, but could still be an option. It would be nice if I could use one of the duplex outlets behind the screen. Look forward to seeing your finished solution.
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post #126 of 363 Old 05-30-2012, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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The Roscoe Velour Black paint came in yesterday. It is the thickest paint I have ever used, it comes in a gallon can and it has the consistency of the fake orange cheese you would get on nachos at a baseball game. You then mix it with water at a 1:1 ratio. This made it very easy to apply and it got great coverage, but it does splatter tiny drops of black paint everywhere.

I primed a section of wall and painted half with the Behr Mouse Ears and half with the Roscoe Velour Black. Tonight I will cover a strip of each with the Modern Masters dead flat varnish and then I'll take a picture of it and post it for comparison.

Once the two black paints dried and I looked at them under a spotlight, I wasn't as blown away with the Velour black as I had expected to be. It did seem like it had less sheen than the Behr, but it didn't appear any darker. After moving the spotlight off of them and lowering the light level in the room a bit, the Velour black looked very black while the Behr looked dark grey.

I don't know how well these are going to photograph, but I would say there is a difference between the two paints, with the Roscoe being the darker of the two. I'll be repainting my ceiling with the Velour black.

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post #127 of 363 Old 05-31-2012, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I applied the varnish and let it dry. This is a photo with the two paints side by side:



It looks like I wasted money buying that varnish, there is no way that will work for use in the theater room. Since it's already bought and paid for, I guess I can use it in the rest of the basement.

A big milestone has been reached...light!



I was very happy when everything worked correctly and the lights turned on with no issues.

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post #128 of 363 Old 05-31-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

I applied the varnish and let it dry. This is a photo with the two paints side by side:



Based on the photo, it looks like applying the varnish actually lightened both paints, or made them more grey. Is that the case? Was the idea behind the varnish to provide a protective coat so the flat paint doesn't mark as easily?

It also appears that the Mouse Ears is slightly darker, but you say in person, it's the opposite?

I have a gallon of the Mouse Ears and was planning on using it on the soffit & ceiling but I'm a little nervous with how easily it marks. Being on the ceiling, I guess it will be ok. I just don't want to be touching up scuffs all the time. So far, I'm using it to paint wood that will be behind the screen and was going to use it on the screen wall framing. If you think that the Roscoe is darker, maybe I'll use that on the ceiling.

Who sells Rosco paint?
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post #129 of 363 Old 06-01-2012, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Based on the photo, it looks like applying the varnish actually lightened both paints, or made them more grey. Is that the case? Was the idea behind the varnish to provide a protective coat so the flat paint doesn't mark as easily?

It also appears that the Mouse Ears is slightly darker, but you say in person, it's the opposite?

I have a gallon of the Mouse Ears and was planning on using it on the soffit & ceiling but I'm a little nervous with how easily it marks. Being on the ceiling, I guess it will be ok. I just don't want to be touching up scuffs all the time. So far, I'm using it to paint wood that will be behind the screen and was going to use it on the screen wall framing. If you think that the Roscoe is darker, maybe I'll use that on the ceiling.

Who sells Rosco paint?


It looks lighter and more grey in the picture due to the sheen on the varnish. The varnish may be called "dead flat" but it is not. You are exactly right, the idea behind the varnish was to give some scuff protection to that easily scuffable black paint. In that regard, the varnish does work, but I can't use it due to the sheen.

The mouse ears might look darker in that photo but I think it's an optical illusion. the mouse ears with varnish looks about the same, while the rosco with varnish looks much lighter, having them side by side plays tricks with your eyes. Here is a picture of them both without the varnish, I think you can see how much darker the velour black is:



The velour black is flatter than the mouse ears, that is probably why it seems darker. You can order it online, or get on their website and find a local dealer: http://www.rosco.com/US/wtb/index.cfm

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post #130 of 363 Old 06-02-2012, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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It was a beautiful day here, I set up an awning in the driveway and worked through many sheets of plywood and MDF, cutting the pieces for the fabric frames and the baseboard and chair rails.



I'll be using the gpowers framing design but I didn't want to use my router to make the angles like he did. Some people have cut their pieces first, then run the cut pieces through their table saw to make the chamfers. I thought I would try setting my circular saw at a 45 and cutting half of the strips that way. The upside is you don't have to cut everything twice, the downside is that you are going to have an angle cut on each end:



It seems like that should be no problem, the inside angle won't be seen since the fabric will stretch across that point and go to the other side of the frame.

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post #131 of 363 Old 06-02-2012, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
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It was a beautiful day here, I set up an awning in the driveway and worked through many sheets of plywood and MDF, cutting the pieces for the fabric frames and the baseboard and chair rails.



I wonder how many of your neighbors wondered why you were ruining perfectly good plywood and making a huge scrap pile!
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post #132 of 363 Old 06-02-2012, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
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Here is a picture of them both without the varnish, I think you can see how much darker the velour black is:


Wow. That is quite a difference. I might have to try and use up my gallon of Mouse Ears painting things that might show through fabric and go with the Rosco for the ceiling/soffits.

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It was a beautiful day here, I set up an awning in the driveway and worked through many sheets of plywood and MDF, cutting the pieces for the fabric frames and the baseboard and chair rails.


If all goes according to plan, my driveway will look like that in the next few days. I think I'm going to skip the MDF and just go with 2 layers of plywood for the frames.
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post #133 of 363 Old 06-02-2012, 10:01 PM
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Man, I'm jealous. I could start that phase right now but I really want to work on my speakers and get that going on. I'm probably going to use two layers of plywood too. Not sure I want to create more MDF dust after all the mess its caused for the speaker build.

Skyrun Cinema Build-Speakers done and positioned. 7/2 THTLP done. Fabric Frames going on now.

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post #134 of 363 Old 06-03-2012, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
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Man, I'm jealous. I could start that phase right now but I really want to work on my speakers and get that going on. I'm probably going to use two layers of plywood too. Not sure I want to create more MDF dust after all the mess its caused for the speaker build.

I am just glad I am done building frames. I love the look, but don't want to make another for awhile.

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post #135 of 363 Old 06-03-2012, 12:49 AM
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I used two layers of plywood on my frames, and it worked fine for me.
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post #136 of 363 Old 06-03-2012, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I wonder how many of your neighbors wondered why you were ruining perfectly good plywood and making a huge scrap pile!

Lots! It took all morning and afternoon, I probably got as many comments on the awning as I did on the sawmill we had going. It was in the 70's and sunny so working all day in the shade of the tent with a nice breeze blowing through was really nice.

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post #137 of 363 Old 06-03-2012, 11:54 AM
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I used two layers of plywood on my frames, and it worked fine for me.

I wish I would have built my frames using two layers according to the plans detailed in GPowers' thread, as well as many other builds, but I went a different route and built them with the plywood on the edge. They turned out nice in the end, but I had to do some extra steps to make them work. Brad's idea of making his removable is also a great feature.

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post #138 of 363 Old 06-03-2012, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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My wife had a 50% off coupon to Joann's expiring tomorrow so we took a trip to buy some black velvet. I looked at a lot of different brands of black velvet and the best compromise between price, weight and blackness was the $14.99 per yard stuff from Joann's. They come out with 50% off coupons once a month so if you buy it there, make sure you get a coupon first!

This is the sku of the velvet we used:


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post #139 of 363 Old 06-04-2012, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImmortalJman View Post

Man, I'm jealous. I could start that phase right now but I really want to work on my speakers and get that going on. I'm probably going to use two layers of plywood too. Not sure I want to create more MDF dust after all the mess its caused for the speaker build.

Check with me before you start, I may have leftover frame pieces.

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post #140 of 363 Old 06-06-2012, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I cut all of the triangle corner bass traps for the stage. They were made out of 2" thick John Mansville version of OC703.

393

I also wired in some more lights. The 4 mini halogens above the stage are in. I tried wiring the sconces into the pancake boxes and I cannot get everything tucked in there in a safe and organized manner. I think the 1/2" pancake boxes are only rated for one 14/2 romex and I have two in each. There are some different solutions but most bad and against code, I went out looking for alternatives and I found this:

379

That should almost double the amount of room I have to safely fold and store the wires. I'll need to pick up some of the plastic grommets for the knock out holes, the metal ones I have now protrude too far out the back. I also picked up a 4" hole saw, I'll cut a hole from a larger piece of my frames material and make a plywood bracket for each sconce, that should allow me to staple the fabric and leave a nice clean look when finished.

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post #141 of 363 Old 06-06-2012, 12:28 PM
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were you trying to mount the pancake box on the wall by its self

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post #142 of 363 Old 06-06-2012, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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The pancake boxes themselves are 1/2" deep, my frames are going to be 1" deep, so if I mounted the box right to the wall it would be 1/2" too shallow.

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post #143 of 363 Old 06-06-2012, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting ready to order my GOM, how much should I allow per panel to be able to tuck it around and staple? I was thinking an extra 2" per side, so 4" vertical and 4" horizontal, that sound about right?

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post #144 of 363 Old 06-06-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
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Getting ready to order my GOM, how much should I allow per panel to be able to tuck it around and staple? I was thinking an extra 2" per side, so 4" vertical and 4" horizontal, that sound about right?

I estimated using that much extra, and then added a couple extra feet of material - but I must have messed up my math / cutlist somewhere along the line, because I ended up with quite a bit of extra material, maybe 8-10'. Anyway, for 1" deep panels, 2" extra all around should be good - as long as you cut straight. ;-)
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post #145 of 363 Old 06-08-2012, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Brad, I took some more measurements last night and I'll be calling in the GOM order today.

Carpet has been ordered, delivery estimate is two weeks.

James said the replacement screen frame has been built and shipped.

I was at Menards buying deck stain and looked for some LED bulbs for the step lights while I was there. They had some that looked perfect and were very reasonably priced, but it turns out they are not dimmable, and I would prefer dimmable.

492

The standard metal romex connectors that I was trying to use for the pancake boxes were just too deep. I drove all over town yesterday going to the different electrical supply houses trying to find a very shallow romex connector. It's funny all the different names these things go by - romex connector, bushing, knockout cover, and several I shouldn't mention on a family oriented website.

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The middle one looks like it should be shallow enough to work for my sconce installs. I should be able to get the 6 sconces installed tonight and have full lighting in the theater!

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post #146 of 363 Old 06-10-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
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I estimated using that much extra, and then added a couple extra feet of material - but I must have messed up my math / cutlist somewhere along the line, because I ended up with quite a bit of extra material, maybe 8-10'. Anyway, for 1" deep panels, 2" extra all around should be good - as long as you cut straight. ;-)

+1, I estimated doing a larger border, but ended up using the 1-2" extra like Brad said. After making your first panel you realize very quickly how much stretch the material has and can adjust before making any more. I used scissors to cut the material and since have seen people using a rotary cutter, which seems to provide a cut that is more straight.

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post #147 of 363 Old 06-11-2012, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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GOM is ordered, I hope I ordered enough. Really hope, since the minimum order seems to be 8 yards.

Good advice on the fabric cutting wheel, my wife has one of those, I wouldn't have thought to use that if you hadn't mentioned it.

It turned out to be very difficult to find a dimmable LED bulb for those step lights. Googling for it does nothing. After reading through dozens of sites I found a forum for guys who build fancy Christmas displays, there is a company called Creative Displays that sells dimmable C7 bulbs.

I got the framing material painted with the mouse ears black and I also routed the roundovers for the MDF baseboard and chair rail. Next step is sanding sealer and painting them. I think I will try a satin or semi gloss version of mouse ears.

450


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post #148 of 363 Old 06-11-2012, 09:29 AM
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I got the framing material painted with the mouse ears black

It is a little late, but depending on the GOM you purchased you may not have needed to paint the frame material. I used the Anchorage GOM and did not paint the frames, but if you are using a more open weave then you would probably need to. Sometimes you don't know until you get the fabric though.

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post #149 of 363 Old 06-11-2012, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Not a problem, I had an entire gallon of mouse ears black left over, since I decided to use the Roscoe black for the ceiling paint.

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post #150 of 363 Old 06-11-2012, 09:47 AM
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Not sure if you're just looking for bulbs for existing step lights, or a whole step light fixture, but here is a dimmable LED step light:
http://www.prolighting.com/lms-3k-l.html

Unfortunately, it's not cheap.

Searching for "Juno dimmable LED step light" will yield several other options as well.
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