Mel's Dedicated Media Room Plan - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 09-08-2011, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I am building a media room and it is my first time so I would need some help on various details such as equipment placement, plugs and more regular stuff like throw distance.....



My room will be 18' wide and 13'6 long. The ceiling will be 10' at the center and about 8'-9' at the walls.
I plan to ceiling mount the projector as the room comes pre-wired for this.
I plan to set up home theater seats along the 18' width which would allow me to place 4 seats comfortably, so this 'only' leave me about 11-13 feet from projector to screen to figure out size and all.
I am debating doing a floor raise but I'm concerned that my head would then be too close to the projector and could make it too noisy.
I haven't selected the projector or screen yet since the room won't be finished for about 6 months and I'm waiting to see what CEDIA and fall brings (the Panansonic AE47000E look nice though ).
I do however already have my receiver a Denon AVR-4810CI and my bluray player will be a PS3.

The most pressing question I have is regarding plug and equipment placement because I have to finalize the build plans.
I was thinking about putting all the equipment into the top left closet so that it's out of the way and doesn't distract the viewing experience.
I have 2 main concerns with this:

1. I'm afraid that the closet would not be ventilated enough and the equipment would get way too hot in there.
2. I would have to reroute all the power, CAT-5... plugs and my PS3, Xbox 360 and such would be in there. I am a gamer so does that create a problem for controller response if the consoles are behind me in an enclosed space?

If I reroute the plugs to the closet I need to pre-wire for the center speaker.
Also Subwoofer placement. Is it better to have it in the front near the screen or in the back which would be much closer to the sitting area?
Are speakers preferable on wall mount or ceiling mount?

As you can see lots of question but I joined my floor plan and I would take any recommendations you might have for my setup.
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post #2 of 29 Old 09-08-2011, 07:23 AM
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Do you have access to the area above or adjacent to the closet to configure some duct work with ventilation?

If that is a big hallway/landing outside the double doors you could do some through wall venting with nice duct covers painted to match the wall. Pull air out the top and have another matching vent at the bottom for fresh air in. I'm thinking of the wall with the PH marker.

I think Panasonic makes a whisper quiet through-wall vent fan, you could hook up to a line voltage thermostat to control heat build up in the closet.
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post #3 of 29 Old 09-08-2011, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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The double door are 6 feet from the stairs going to the first floor.
I don't have access to ceiling in this closet but the PH wall is against the open game room.
I could try and do the through wall venting but that would probably be after build.

Considering the screen is going to be on the bottom wall do you think it makes more sense to have the equipment in the top or bottom closet?
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post #4 of 29 Old 09-09-2011, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright after some research it seems the best option would be to run a conduit between the projector and the equipment base. This would be cheaper than pre-wiring HDMI, CAT-5... and would future proof by allowing me to run whatever whenever through it.

Also it was brought up that my lighting sucks and I need some recessed lights on a dimmer in strategic positions which I hadn't even thought of ....
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post #5 of 29 Old 09-10-2011, 10:08 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakul View Post

Alright after some research it seems the best option would be to run a conduit between the projector and the equipment base. This would be cheaper than pre-wiring HDMI, CAT-5... and would future proof by allowing me to run whatever whenever through it.

Also it was brought up that my lighting sucks and I need some recessed lights on a dimmer in strategic positions which I hadn't even thought of ....

Do both, run the conduit AND prewire the HDMI, CAT5, RS-232, etc.
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post #6 of 29 Old 09-10-2011, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

Do both, run the conduit AND prewire the HDMI, CAT5, RS-232, etc.

Wouldn't that be a greater expense? I could just run all those cables through the conduit when I install everything no?
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post #7 of 29 Old 09-10-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Drakul View Post

Wouldn't that be a greater expense? I could just run all those cables through the conduit when I install everything no?

The most compelling reason to install the conduit is to make retrofitting cables easier, once the drywall is up. The fewer cables in the conduit, the easier it will be to fish new ones. Unless you think you'll want any outdated or failed cables back (why would you?), they should lie in the wall, outside the conduit, where they won't interfere with new cables, should you need them.
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post #8 of 29 Old 01-24-2012, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello fellow crazies!
The construction of my first home theater is just about finished and I now have to make all sorts of new hardware decisions.
I apologize in advance for the avalanche of questions.

Below you will find pics with all the measurements I could think of.
NB: the red paint is much darker than it appears, the flash just brigtened the whole thing.

First I think a bit about me and my use is in order. I'm a fairly big movie buff, I have about a thousand DVDs and my bluray collection is growing steadily. As a result I have some 3D material (mostly Avatar and recent Animated / Super Hero tropes) but 2D is my main 'concern'.
I am also a very big gamer. I have a 360, PS3, Wii and older systems but I plan to only hook up the 360 and PS3 (as my main blu ray player) to the projector.

I currently have a Denon 4810CI which I'm pretty satisfied with (caveat that I'm most likely not using its full potential at this point).
But it doesn't do 3D and so I was thinking of maybe getting the Pioneer Elite SC-57.
I was planning of running everything through the receiver, is this a bad idea?


As you can see the prewire and conduit for the Projector are about 14' (4m). Which should be a good distance for most projectors.
I was originally fairly set on the Panasonic AE7000 but the recent release of the JVC X30 is making me doubt.
As I explained earlier when it comes to movies I'm mostly a 2D person so the JVC seems like the better choice, but there is still concern for the 3D and the reports go from 'very good' to 'awful' so it's hard to know who to believe.
From a gamer's perspective I'm a bit concerned about the JVC ghosting and 'slow' time response. I'm not a professional gamer by any stretch of the imagination but I do play fighting games, FPS, platformers....



As you can see the space between the sconces is 96" (244cm).
We are currently debating moving the sconces to the side walls but wouldn't if it's not necessary.
The seating area is going to be 11'-13' (3.4m-4m) from the wall. I don't want to be right below the projector to avoid noise, plus it would sort of block the entrance to the place.
I've been looking at screen measurements and some place say x2 which seems way too small, most say 1.5x and others say you can go as low as 1.2x. Obviously it's pretty subjective, I like to be immersed in the image but I don't need it to be huge either (or so I'd like to think...).
Right now I'm seating about 12' from my 42" Plasma so I laid out a measuring tape stretched out to 90" under the TV and to my eyes it looks wide enough but it's hard to tell.
I'm also unsure as to go with 1:85 or 2:35, I'm still not clear on what the majority of films use and since I watch all kinds that would be my deciding factor. That's also one reason I'm drawn towards the JVC X30 but for the screen which is recommended?
I'm assuming if I went 2:35 I would have to definitely move the sconces since these screens are wider.

And I'm not even going to go into the Seats and Speakers right now... I did some research and the more I research the less I know what I want...


Now this is the closet where I'm going to put all the equipment.
Do you guys have any general advice for venting (as you can see there's a big hole at the bottom to access the attic but venting is better at the top correct?) also what kind of racks are good for this type of thing?

Again I apologize for the all the questions and any advice/comment is greatly welcome.
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post #9 of 29 Old 01-24-2012, 09:30 PM
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I don't have too much good advice, but a couple leads I might give you:
I've heard reports from people I know to be demanding that they are very happy with the SC-57. If you go that way, I think you'll be happy (Though always remember that how much amplification you need relates directly (inversely) to the sensitivity of your speakers - loud (sensitive) speakers require a lot less power.)

There are a number of guys here who use their theaters for gaming, but I don't know anything about it personally. I mention it because I think you can find out who they are and what there gear is by starting in Tony123's build thread.

Lastly, on screen size and ratio: As a movie fan myself, I will insist on a wide screen. If you want wide movies to be larger (as their directors and cinematographers intended), that's the way to do it. Just understand that there will be special requirements for the equipment you choose for that to happen - do your research. And for comparison, I sit about 7 feet from my 50" plasma, and it's almost big enough.

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post #10 of 29 Old 01-25-2012, 06:37 AM
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I have a 2.35:1 screen and wouldn't have it any other way. But there are some things you need to consider if you want to go with a projector that uses the zoom method of filling the screen when shifting from 16:9 to 2.35.

First off to use the zoom method on either the Panasonic's or the new Sony you need to have the projector lens mounted no higher than the top of the screen. That means a down pole and it may hang down a little bit into the entrance area.

You got some terrible advice on screen size. The correct answer is to get a 45 degree field of view.



IMHO, sitting at 12 ft you would want something about 120 inches wide, some guys would go 130. Those sconces really need to go.

Your projector wiring is not centered with the screen wall so you need to be sure the projector you buy can handle the horizontal image shift. If this is your first time, be sure you don't just hang the projector and swivel it to hit the screen. You aim it straight ahead for a perfectly square image than shift it with the lens shift feature. If you just swivel it your image is going to be taller on your left facing the screen.
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post #11 of 29 Old 01-25-2012, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Fred- Thanks for the reply. The SC-57 definitely looks nice I'm just wondering if outside of 3D it would be step down in quality from the 4810CI.
Speakers I just can't even process now. I looked at some Kliptch (RC-62) as well as some MartinLogan and for the Sub I'm interested int he HSU VTF-15H.
But I'm still pretty overwhelmed by all the options


Thanks BIG, I was looking through your thread and you have a gorgeous HT.

The sconces will definitely move but for design purposes I'd like to have them at the edge of the wall if I can.
I think my screen width will not go much higher than 110". In theater I don't like being to close. It will depend on the exact spot of the seats and my head position once the seats recline, but either way the sconces have to move.

The projector wiring is not centered but I will fix the projector center for sure. I don't really care if I can see some wires here and there. Not as pretty and clean as you setup for sure but as long as it works I'm fine with it.

Re: projector height that could be a problem for me..... The ceiling height is 10' and I calculated that the maximum height (because of the weird wall shape) of the screen would be about 7' which would mean a 3' drop and that's pretty huge.
Plus I'm concerned if the projector is 7' high about 1-2 feet behind my head that the fan noise could become annoying.

Would the JVC X30 not have that issue? or is it universal if you want to avoid trapezoidal shape?

Thank you both again for your replies.
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post #12 of 29 Old 01-25-2012, 12:02 PM
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I had never heard of the X30 before, but there is a recent review at projector central that addresses all three of your concerns, and I think should set them to rest (assuming the review is entirely accurate).

Quote:


Whisper-quiet operation. In Normal lamp mode, the X30 is almost silent -- which only reinforces the "is this thing on?" factor introduced by the projector's deep black level. With the lamp at High power, the fan produces a low rush of air that we did not find distracting, even when sitting within a foot or two of the X30's exhaust vent.

Placement flexibility. With a 2.0:1 zoom lens and powered adjustments, the X30 is easy to mount in any number of possible locations. The lens shift allows for 2.9 picture heights of total range. This allows you to place the projected image completely above or completely below the centerline of the projector's lens such that the bottom (or top) edge of the image is 45% of the image's height above (or below) the lens centerline. This makes a ceiling mount or low table placement a snap. The horizontal shift has a total range of 1.8 picture widths, allowing a shift of 40% of the picture's width in either direction.

Lens Memory. The big advantage of a powered lens, aside from making it easier to focus, align, and mount the projector, is that the X30 can be used on a 2.39:1 screen in a constant image height setup without using an anamorphic lens. In other words, you zoom the image up to fill the screen when watching cinemascope content, then zoom back down to create a smaller pillar-boxed 16:9 image in the center of the screen when watching a 16:9 movie. To make 2.39:1 viewing even easier, the X30 includes a lens memory system. This allows you to set different positions for 2.39:1 and 16:9 images which the projector will remember. When you switch back and forth, the X30 will automatically move the projected image into the space you previously designated. This way, you can adjust zoom, focus, and lens shift once, and then recall those positions in the future.

This suggests that you are good to go pretty much anywhere you want to put that projector (assuming the zoom range covers the image sizes you need for your screen). Even if they are wrong about the lens shift memory, the 20dB sound level is pretty awesome and shouldn't bother anyone. I'll go add this projector to my list for further reading and consideration. Thumbs up!

Oh, and specifically, any projector will produce a trapezoidal image if the axis of the lens is not normal to the screen (perfectly perpendicular).
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post #13 of 29 Old 01-25-2012, 05:07 PM
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Just be aware that in the case of the Panasonic and Sony the memory image positioning function had limits less than the full lens shift capability. While installation flexibility was a touted marketing claim, hidden deep in the owners manual is the little publicized fact about the shift limits for a CIH setup. Hopefully the JVC is different.

After some reading on the RS45 it appears to have motorized lens shift so the chances are good that this may be the CIH champ for mounting flexibility.
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post #14 of 29 Old 01-25-2012, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
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I had never heard of the X30 before, but there is a recent review at projector central that addresses all three of your concerns, and I think should set them to rest (assuming the review is entirely accurate).



This suggests that you are good to go pretty much anywhere you want to put that projector (assuming the zoom range covers the image sizes you need for your screen). Even if they are wrong about the lens shift memory, the 20dB sound level is pretty awesome and shouldn't bother anyone. I'll go add this projector to my list for further reading and consideration. Thumbs up!

Oh, and specifically, any projector will produce a trapezoidal image if the axis of the lens is not normal to the screen (perfectly perpendicular).

The X30 is the same projector as the JVC RS45. It uses it's actual power lens shift, power zoom and power focus to do the re-positioning for the use of scope screens. As far as not having the projector connections lining up with the middle of the screen, I would still position the projector in the middle of the screen. The Panasonic is limited to placement between the top and bottom of the 16:9 image for 2.35 screens because it is shifting the image on the panel digitally. The SonyVW95 like the JVC's is using lens shift to re-position the image for 2.35.

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post #15 of 29 Old 01-26-2012, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just be aware that in the case of the Panasonic and Sony the memory image positioning function had limits less than the full lens shift capability. While installation flexibility was a touted marketing claim, hidden deep in the owners manual is the little publicized fact about the shift limits for a CIH setup. Hopefully the JVC is different.

After some reading on the RS45 it appears to have motorized lens shift so the chances are good that this may be the CIH champ for mounting flexibility.

Going back to what you said previously and after reading some article I think Iunderstand why you and others recommend screen sizes that seem a little too much to me (i.e 120"-130" from 12' viewing distance).
I think the main reason would be that to have CIH you must make sure that the 1.85:1 material retains a decent size. I just did some calculations and a 120"W 2.35:1 in 1.85:1 is 'only' 94" (which goes back to my original adequate width of screen).
Also I think with scope filming, inherently, the edges are more for immersion that straight action details so you never have to really look there most of the time, this probably avoids head shifting, headaches, sickness....

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

The X30 is the same projector as the JVC RS45. It uses it's actual power lens shift, power zoom and power focus to do the re-positioning for the use of scope screens. As far as not having the projector connections lining up with the middle of the screen, I would still position the projector in the middle of the screen. The Panasonic is limited to placement between the top and bottom of the 16:9 image for 2.35 screens because it is shifting the image on the panel digitally. The SonyVW95 like the JVC's is using lens shift to re-position the image for 2.35.

That is what I meant. Even though the plug isn't lined up I will have the projector centered for sure.

I did read all the reviews for it (mostly Proj Central and AVF) but as this is my first projector and HT it can sometimes go over my head a bit. It's also tough knowing in advance the features that are indispensable and the ones that are fluff or that I would never use.

Thank you all again for your help
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post #16 of 29 Old 02-03-2012, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Well crap!
Someone pointed me to the Zombie thread on here that I've been reading for a week and now I'm seriously considering getting the Sony HW30...

I've always had a lingering concern with the X30 about the 3D and gaming lag and the HW30 seems to really be the best 'all-around' projector for me and my price range.
Good 3D, good 2D and great gaming lag (or lack thereof), since it's manual focus and shift it definitely reaffirms my feeling of keeping it simple with a 16:9 screen.
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post #17 of 29 Old 02-18-2012, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright so I went and took some measurements in my HT room today. I plan to go HW30 with Carada 16:9 BW 118".



As you can see because of the weird shape of my wall if I keep the screen centered I have to leave pretty much a 2 feet gap between the top of the screen and the ceiling (which is at 10' and will be where the projector will be mounted).

So I'm right in thinking I'm going to need an extension pole for my projector, right?

PS: Yes the lamps are moving.
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post #18 of 29 Old 03-21-2012, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Look what just got here!!



Now I just need to figure out what tests to run to make sure the unit is fine. What should I do? I'm a complete noob at this.
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post #19 of 29 Old 04-26-2012, 06:40 AM
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Look what just got here!!



Now I just need to figure out what tests to run to make sure the unit is fine. What should I do? I'm a complete noob at this.

Whats up? You haven't posted anything about your new projector .
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post #20 of 29 Old 04-26-2012, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Whats up? You haven't posted anything about your new projector .

Wow I just realized for some reason I forgot to update this thread. So here goes!


Palliser Rhumba


Screen is up. (sorry for the quick and dirty pic)


And projector is hung
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post #21 of 29 Old 04-29-2012, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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And here come the L/C/R!

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post #22 of 29 Old 04-30-2012, 05:18 AM
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The room is turning out really nice! Are you going to do some acoustical treatment? My last theater had a bonus room similar to yours,the room was treated and sounded great. What are the dimensions? I had paradigm studio 100 for the front, cc690 center, adp490 sides and 20's at the back. In fact i still have them and would like to sell them as i'm not using them . Paradigm makes a great product, i really like them. keep the photo's coming . What sub's are you using?
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post #23 of 29 Old 05-01-2012, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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The room is turning out really nice! Are you going to do some acoustical treatment? My last theater had a bonus room similar to yours,the room was treated and sounded great. What are the dimensions? I had paradigm studio 100 for the front, cc690 center, adp490 sides and 20's at the back. In fact i still have them and would like to sell them as i'm not using them . Paradigm makes a great product, i really like them. keep the photo's coming . What sub's are you using?

The room is about 13' x 16'.
Right now I'm focusing on equipment but down the line I may paint the screen wall black and add acoustical treatment.

My sound list is:
L/R: Paradigm Studio 60
C: Paradigm Studio CC-590
Surrounds: Axiom QS8
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK4
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post #24 of 29 Old 06-03-2012, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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UPDATE!


HSU VTF3-MK4 subwoofer and 4 Axiom QS8 surrounds!

For the Sub, the driver needs to face the room and the back port need at least 3" of clearance from the wall correct?

And for the surrounds the prewiring lands 1-2' in front of seating. I've read that the Axiom are very forgiving so should I place them at the current location or should I run the wire an extra foot or two?



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post #25 of 29 Old 06-03-2012, 02:01 PM
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Surrounds should be equal or a little behind seating. Also 1-2ft above ear level too.

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post #26 of 29 Old 06-04-2012, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Surrounds should be equal or a little behind seating. Also 1-2ft above ear level too.

Is it as critical in a 7.1 setting?
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post #27 of 29 Old 06-04-2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Drakul View Post


Is it as critical in a 7.1 setting?

Yes. Look at the THX seating chart. Someone might be able to link it for you, I'm on my iPhone now.

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post #28 of 29 Old 06-11-2012, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Wire cutting, wire stripping and banana plugging......... smile.gif
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post #29 of 29 Old 06-19-2012, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Let's get ready to rumble!!!!

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