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post #1 of 104 Old 09-21-2011, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi everyone - I've posted several times to get input on designs and various items of concern, but I am ready to get my build started.

Here is the layout:



Existing Room:

I have spent hours researching and planning here, mostly around:

1. Screen Size
2. Chairs - narrow but comfortable for my 6' 3" frame
3. Projector throw and placement
4. Fabric wall techniques
5. Sound containment
6. Acoustic Treatment
7. Riser Height for 2nd row of chairs in a low ceiling room (6' 9")

All of the planning got me to a decent point on all of those things, but I really felt like I needed to get some stuff here and test it out before I spent any more time worrying about it.

So, I ordered a whole bunch of stuff and rigged it up temporarily. This has been great for learning because alot of problems/questions I was struggling with are solved, but some others are going to be more challenging.

Here is the room:


Stuff to go in it









I rigged up the Epson 8700 on top of a few boxes shooting on a white sheet and the speakers with my Onkyo SR707 temporarily and watched several hours of a few different movies (Star Wars I & IV, Avatar, Miracle)...

HOLY CRAP - love it! I could probably watch this and be happy for months. I knew this might happen...

Anyway... here's what I've learned on my main issues:

1. Screen Size - I thought 106" might be the max given the room size, but I found that I was VERY comfortable with around that size and wanting it bigger. WAF high on going bigger too. Son AF very very high . Will go up to around 120" depending on the riser issue coming up. Also very comfortable I will be able to move my chairs up from the 10' viewing distance shown in the layout.

2. Chairs - narrow but comfortable for my 6' 3" frame. Palliser Pacifcos are AWESOME. Got the power recline which is a million times better than manual. LOVE THEM. WAF high. Also, was worried about the aisle room on the right side, but no problems! One of the reasons this chair is so good for me is that it has a 43" height, which fits me well... See riser issue coming up.

3. Projector throw and placement - Epson 8700 did great with max zoom in my temp rig, absolutely stunned at how great the picture looked on a wrinkly sheet held up by a few push pins with hardly any tension. My brother could not believe how good it looked when I showed it off to him. I think I will be just fine with the throw since my temp rig was closer than any mounting position I'd choose permanently. The placement on the ceiling might be a challenge with the riser issue. Sense a trend here

4. Fabric wall techniques - got a case of OC703 FRK 1" from a local distributor (cheap too ) . Based on research here, I think I am going to be just fine running vertical furring strips, placing OC in between up to ear level (backing out) and poly batting above that. Will cover with GOM Anchorage Goose. Based on heavy research here I think I have a good staple hiding technique worked out.

5. Sound containment - was very worried about rattling the house down with the new Polks. Now from what I've read here, some of you are probably looking down on/laughing at my speakers (Monitor 40s for L/R, CS1 center, PSW10 sub). I will be pairing with Monoprice 6.5" In Ceiling speakers for 7.1 surrounds (don't have them yet though). Coming from my Sony HTIAB set up I've had for 10 years in which the L/R and surrounds were 5 inches tall by 2 inches wide, this is a major upgrade. Also, I am not even close to an audiophile, more like audio neophyte. The sound coming out of $270 worth of these new Polks blew me away. That said, great news here... WAF on the noise level upstairs was VERY HIGH. She was doing work and wasn't bothered AT ALL. This is great news as I can forget about lots of drywalling/insulation to stop noise. I know I may need to consider keeping noise OUT, but based on several hours of watching I think I'm OK. I do need to run the AC unit during a movie to see if that interferes too much.


6. Acoustic Treatment - as mentioned above, will be using OC703 FRK 1" (they only carry FRK) up to ear level (backing facing out) covered in GOM around side and back walls. Screen wall will be covered in OC703 as well, was just going to use 1" there but considering 2" since that wall backs up the furnace room. Found a supplier close who is cheap, and picked up a single case to work out some test panels with the furring strips.


7. Riser Height for 2nd row of chairs in a low ceiling room (6' 9") - this feels like my stickiest problem. The comfort of the Pacificos at 43" combined with tall people like me seating in the front row is creating a big problem here. I am looking at a riser in the 12 - 16" inch range if I want a screen between 106" and 120". That big of a riser is a problem with a 6' 9" ceiling. I am thinking of a double riser to mitigate some of the headroom challenges, but there is no way around people needing to either duck when getting seated or having viewing obstructions from the front. I will be using ceiling tiles from Ceilume in the existing drop ceiling so hand banging won't be a serious issue (they are paper thin), but it's kind of a crappy experience.

Overall, I am pretty pumped about how things are shaping up. After watching 20 mins of Miracle, my wife's comment was "I just want it done!", which was a excellent sign considering I just spent half my budget on the stuff already here. Guess I will have to oblige!

My immediate next steps are to get started on making furring strips for the walls and get the acoustic treatments in and run wiring and set up my temporary rack in my unfinished area (will build a nice one opening to theater later). From there the plan is a bit fuzzier but I think I'll move to the ceiling and get can lights installed, projector location finalized and mounted, install new ceiling tiles, build screen wall, build riser, install all fabric.

We have alot of people coming over for Christmas so I have a somewhat tentative/aggressive/foolish goal of trying to have it all done by then. It's something to shoot for but probably not going to happen. But I think I can get enough done to at least wow a few people

Please give me any reactions/criticism ideas - I'll do my best to keep posting progress.
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post #2 of 104 Old 09-21-2011, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the links to my previous posts that go in depth on several of my issues:

Overall Design Concept & Feedback

Question on Seating - was considering Rialto at the time

Insulation Questions

Fabric Walls on top of panel?

My plan to attach fabric & hide staples

Project Plan
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post #3 of 104 Old 09-22-2011, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Your ceiling height is definately going to be a challenge. The projector has a fair amount of horizontal lens shift, which may help get it off to the side so only one "cheap seat" is affected.
Good luck. I'll be interested to see how this procedes.

Thanks David... I hadn't thought of your idea... mount the projector off center, say to the left side above the back row and use the lens shift to center it? I was thinking I'd mount it almost directly above the back row center seat in such a way that no one sitting down/getting up would hit their head on it, and that no one walking behind would hit it because of the bar that I'm putting behind the rear row.
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post #4 of 104 Old 09-22-2011, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

To test the effect play music you know then start hanging heavy quilts up on the walls. You will get to a point where it sounds better (rich & full). A couple quilts more and the sound starts to become dead, almost like it is playing through a thin wall in the next room.
Given the amount of research you have obviously done already you have likely taken this into consideration.

I actually had not thought of doing this exercise... Should I hang the quilts at ear level and work my around the entire room?

Checking out your build thread, looks amazing - especially the woodwork!
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post #5 of 104 Old 09-22-2011, 08:41 PM
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Great looking design. I'm really happy to see this because the area that I plan on turning into a theater (hopefully next year) is almost exactly the same size. It should be just under 10' wide though. Based on what you've put together do you think there would be an issue with 3 seats per row?
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post #6 of 104 Old 09-23-2011, 04:53 AM
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If your title is serious "I want it done". None here are qualified to help.

Looking good so far!

The "Twinseltown" Theater
Construction Thread
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post #7 of 104 Old 09-23-2011, 08:58 AM
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Pretty convenient having a door to the back access of your screen wall and hardly any outside light to deal with from the get go! I'm working in a similar small space, 10' wide 21 long. Looking forward to following your progress.
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post #8 of 104 Old 09-23-2011, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trancemitr View Post

Great looking design. I'm really happy to see this because the area that I plan on turning into a theater (hopefully next year) is almost exactly the same size. It should be just under 10' wide though. Based on what you've put together do you think there would be an issue with 3 seats per row?

Thanks!

To answer your question, I took a "before" shot with my current room width of 10' 8" and my 97" wide row of 3, and an "after" shot subtracting 9" and simulating a 9' 11" room:

BEFORE


AFTER


As a fellow small space builder, I wish I could tell you "no problem, it's fine", but it was a little uncomfortable at the simulated 9' 11" width. I looked long and hard at chairs before settling on my Pacificos, which are decently narrow. If you can find something more narrow I'd probably recommend it. You may want to tape out the dimensions of your rows of chairs to get a feeling and maybe stack some boxes on the edge to get the feel for the width.
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post #9 of 104 Old 09-23-2011, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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First trip to Lowes to actually buy supplies... lots of electrical including the Lutron remote control lighting switch, can lights, and some spray paint for the drop ceiling rails. The projector mount also came in (Atdec TH-WH-PJ-FM Telehook Universal Projector Flush Mount).

Also had a FUN Friday night cracking a few cold ones and watching a few movies on the temp sheet. So far I've spent 100x more time in the last 3 days watching movies than actually doing anything to move the build forward.

Goal for this weekend is to get can lights installed and light switches wired and mounted. Going to Ohio State game tomorrow (as always) so that will wipe out Saturday - we'll see if I can accomplish my goal on Sunday.





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post #10 of 104 Old 09-23-2011, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional sound engineer, but I certainly have done a lot of reading and pesonal experimentation over the years. Even so, if someone with the initials DE and several thousand posts chirps in you can pretty much ignore every thing I have said.

Hanging quilts at ear level...Yup. That's about it. Begin with one queen sized quilt folded in half lengthwise on each side wall, parallel with the floor starting a couple feet back from the front speakers with a third quilt tacked unfolded on the rear wall. This should produce a noticable improvement in sound. I can't tell if your ceiling tiles are reflective to high frequencies or not (most are). If reflective I would also experiment with the ceiling in front of the speakers. Listen to some well recorded music (preferably with strong vocals) from the front row seats, before and after the changes. Go to extremes (no blankets & way too many) then come back again until you find something that sounds the best. I bet you will not end up with every square inch of your walls covered. This technique might seem unprofessional but it sure makes it easy to do an "A/B" comparison simply by hanging or removing a couple of blankets.

In my theater I was all gung-ho to smother my screen wall in sound absorption like so many other theaters until I tacked up a cheap fiberfill quilt and immediately heard the life get sucked out of my sound system.

Theoretically you want to focus on direct reflections from the main speakers. With 3 speakers up front, 6 potential seating positions and 4 direct reflective surfaces (side walls, back wall and ceiling) you can see that the science of sound treatment gets very complex. Throw in bass traps and sound difusers and you have a real mess. Thankfully its more of a "horseshoes and hand grenades" scenario...close is generally good enough.

I am going to try this trick over the weekend to get a gauge on how much to insulate. Question... if I decide that I don't want to put the OC703 all the way around, can I use polyester batting to support the fabric walls instead and avoid the deadening effect? I don't want to kill the room's sound but also want some resistance under the fabric walls.
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post #11 of 104 Old 09-25-2011, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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The goal for this weekend was to get the can lights installed and the switches mounted. Did not get it finished but did get all the lights mounted and wire ran. I roughed in the switch box and am ready to tie into the circuit as soon as I get the switches hooked up and the cans wired in. Also got the trim pieces on the lights spray painted, turned out pretty good.

Juno can from Lowes, pretty easy install right into to the drop ceiling rail.



This is what my finished ceiling will look like! I really like the Stratford tiles from Ceilume.



Roughed out switch plate. Will be getting Lutron Maestro for front cans, Lutron slide switch dimmer for rear cans, and a standard switch for the riser lights. Furring strips in preparation for the OC703 and GOM that's coming.

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post #12 of 104 Old 09-25-2011, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I picked up some 1x3x8 lumber at my local store as they were decent quality and looked good for furring strips and cheap ($1.05 each). I got them home and found they were about 1/8 of an inch shallower than the depth of OC703. I've ready lots of posts about people making furring strips, many of them involving ripping 2x4's in half, which would result in something less than 1" as well.

I don't have my GOM yet, but does anyone have experience with stretching it across the furring strips - will it press the OC703 down to match the width if you stretch it tight enough?
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post #13 of 104 Old 09-26-2011, 02:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

I love those ceiling tiles you have chosen. Are they made from tin? Won't they vibrate like crazy?

These tiles are from Ceilume. I am going with the Stratford model. The one pictured I believe is not the Stratford, I ordered two samples and the one shown looks just like it only much thicker (and more expensive). I had my samples in when I did some dry run movie watching with no rattling. They are made out of a thin plastic material. I have seen some other builds with these that have had success.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

To answer your question about the furring...What ever you are trying to hide behind the fabric panels can not protrude above the furring, otherwise you will end up with lumps and bumps.
2X4's are 1.5 X 3.5" so people are probably just ripping 0.5" off to give a full 1" dimension.

I actually did see a few that used both halves of the ripped 2x4,s although they used Linacoustic versus OC703, but both are 1 inch. I think I will give it a shot with my 1x3's and maybe look for some washers or rubber O rings for the back side that will go against the wall to help push it out enough to be flush with the OC.
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post #14 of 104 Old 09-27-2011, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Any tips for painting the drop ceiling rails black? I bought spray paint for my recessed lighting trim which worked great, and I tried it on a scrap section of the drop ceiling railing that was put up long ago. It painted fine with one coat of the spray paint. Can I just spray the rails in place? Maybe holding some cardboard behind where I'm spraying to catch the overspray?
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post #15 of 104 Old 09-27-2011, 09:53 PM
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Hi Kelton325.
The theater is looking very good. I'm excited to see those ceiling tiles once they are all up.

I'm building a similarly sized theater right now myself. (here) Well the width is similar, but my room is not quite as long.

How far away from the screen will you be placing your projector? Will it be inline with your back row of seats? If so, will it hit the folks sitting in the front row in the back of the head?
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post #16 of 104 Old 09-28-2011, 02:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vandak View Post

How far away from the screen will you be placing your projector? Will it be inline with your back row of seats? If so, will it hit the folks sitting in the front row in the back of the head?

I haven't settled on the exact distance, however from my experimentation the front row will probably be 9 to 10 feet. Screen size between 106 and 120. The big variable for me is the second row sightline - that is going to be my limiting factor as the ceiling is only 6' 9". I am going to shoot for a 12" riser with another 2-4" mini riser, but that will obviously create a head banging hazard that I will have to accept. I am going to mock something up to see how this feels.

The projector will be mounted over the second row, but far enough back that anyone getting up won't hit it. There will be a bar behind the back row that prevent anyone walking behind the chairs from hitting it.

Thanks for the compliments I will be checking out your build!
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post #17 of 104 Old 09-28-2011, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished wiring the can lights and dimmer switches tonight, which means I've caught up to where I'd planned to finish last weekend.

Also got a big shipment from Monoprice with my HDMI's, speaker wire, IR extender, HDMI splitter, and 6.5 inch In-Ceiling speakers.

Still looking for tips on painting a drop ceiling railing black - couldn't find much in my search (mostly what I could find was about painting the tile itself which I'm not doing)



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post #18 of 104 Old 09-29-2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelton325 View Post

Thanks!

To answer your question, I took a "before" shot with my current room width of 10' 8" and my 97" wide row of 3, and an "after" shot subtracting 9" and simulating a 9' 11" room:

BEFORE


AFTER


As a fellow small space builder, I wish I could tell you "no problem, it's fine", but it was a little uncomfortable at the simulated 9' 11" width. I looked long and hard at chairs before settling on my Pacificos, which are decently narrow. If you can find something more narrow I'd probably recommend it. You may want to tape out the dimensions of your rows of chairs to get a feeling and maybe stack some boxes on the edge to get the feel for the width.

Thanks for the pics of this. It's certainly illustrative of my future issues. I may have to go with just 2 seats up front and then 3 in back. I doubt I'll generally need more seating than that, but it's always nice to fit more folks if possible.
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post #19 of 104 Old 09-29-2011, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Hey!! Get your grubby shoes off the new carpet!

Haha, it's actually the old carpet... It's all coming out eventually!
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post #20 of 104 Old 09-30-2011, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's my goal to accomplish this weekend. Another Buckeye home game this week so this will all need to happen Sunday:


Install Power outlet for Subwoofer behind screen wall
Install Power outlet for Media Rack
Assemble shelves that will serve as Media Rack
Install projector mount and test
Power outlet for Projector
Run HDMI for projector
Run wiring for speakers
Paint Drop Ceiling Rails
Paint In-Ceiling Speaker trim
Run wiring for speakers
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post #21 of 104 Old 10-01-2011, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I am planning my ceiling projector mount. I have a Atdec TH-WH-PJ-FM Telehook Universal Projector Flush Mount, and I need to drop it about 8-10" from the floor joists above to go through the drop ceiling. I also have a need to get the projector as high as possible due to low ceiling, so I want to build something that will give me flexibility to move the mount up & down as I'm experimenting. What I am planning:
  1. Nail two 2x4 blocks between 2 floor joints
  2. Drill two holes in the blocks
  3. Run 2 large/long bolts downward through the holes in 2x4s
  4. Attach projector mount to the bolts through the holes in the projector mount.

Pros:
  • Cheap
  • Easy & quick
  • Flexible - I can raise and lower the height of the mount to fine tune it exactly where I want it

Cons:
  • I think it will be sturdy enough to hold the projector up, but worried it might be a little flimsy and might allow the projector to move/vibrate if the volume is cranked.

Here are pictures of what I'm considering, please give me feedback!


Mount (already purchased, need to make this work):


View looking up into the ceiling:


View looking at projector from the front:
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post #22 of 104 Old 10-02-2011, 04:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

If you have the space I would be more inclined to build a small 3 sided plywood box with the bottom hanging down to roughly the correct height. Tack each side gently into the joist with a couple screws, mount the project and test. Back the screws out and readjust the box position until either the height is bang on or just slightly high. Use large washers between the mount and the box to nudge the projector down and balance horizontaly if needed.
I would make the box large enough so that the sides stradle the floor joists to make it easier to access the screws.

I've thought about making a box, but decided against it for a few reasons, the biggest one being that even the thinnest of plywood would result in the projector height lowering by 1/2", and I need all the room I can get.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post


If readirod is still your choice run a couple nuts on before attaching the mount. Then at least you have some clamping ability between the two nuts and only have to worry about rod flex.

This is an excellent thought... After thinking some more, I am going to attach a big washer and nut right under the 2x4 block to better secure at the top; then add a washer and nut above the projector mount as well as below it to clamp as you describe. So total of 3 washers and nuts on each screw. The top nut clamps to the block and the bottom 2 clamp the projector. Thanks for the suggestion!
[/quote]

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

(Scanning back I seem to be jumping all over your thread. Hope you don't mind. Always nice to have one of the wise ones chime in with advice, unforuntately that's not me. )

Don't mind at all, thanks for your input - it is much appreciated!
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post #23 of 104 Old 10-02-2011, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Goals:

Install Power outlet for Subwoofer behind screen wall - delayed 1 week
Install Power outlet for Media Rack - delayed 1 week
Assemble shelves that will serve as Media Rack - COMPLETE
Install projector mount and test - COMPLETE
Power outlet for Projector - delayed 1 week
Run HDMI for projector - COMPLETE
Run wiring for speakers - COMPLETE
Paint Drop Ceiling Rails - delayed 1 week
Paint In-Ceiling Speaker trim - delayed 1 week

Made some good progress, but I decided to hold off on the remaining electrical until I can get some new circuits ran. I will be running one to the equipment room and one to the projector. Also delayed the painting - I decided against spray painting the drop ceiling rails due to potential mess, so need to get a can of black paint.

Photos...

Projector is up!


Mount extension... it is a little flimsy but I think it's going to work fine. Note the rope wire safety I put on since I got scared a bolt would snap if someone bumped the projector.



Wiring feed for the riser lights


Temporary Equipment Rack. Phase II of this build will incorporate a much nicer rack that will also open into the HT room. This will work fine for now though.
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post #24 of 104 Old 10-09-2011, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
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After taking down the remaining drop ceiling tiles and watching a few movies, the sound level leaking upstairs is significantly higher and has exceeded the WAF. I now have gone back and re-thought ceiling insulation, and decided to stuff R-30 in the floor joists. Home Depot has unfaced R-30 for $9.97 and I bought enough to cover the job. Really a great price.

Goals for this weekend...

- Get insulation up
- Paint drop ceiling rails
- Run two 20 amp circuits - one for subwoofers one for equipment rack - DONE
- Run power service to the projector - DONE
- Install new outlet behind screen wall for Subwoofers
- Paint In Ceiling speaker trim (4 of them) - DONE
- Mount In Ceiling speakers and complete wiring
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post #25 of 104 Old 10-14-2011, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Good solid weekend of work last week:

- Get insulation up - DONE
- Paint drop ceiling rails - DONE
- Run two 20 amp circuits - one for subwoofers one for equipment rack - DONE
- Run power service to the projector - DONE
- Install new outlet behind screen wall for Subwoofers - DONE
- Paint In Ceiling speaker trim (4 of them) - DONE
- Mount In Ceiling speakers and complete wiring - DONE

This one photo shows several of the major elements of progress... speakers in ceiling, with insulation, painted rails...



This weekend the goal is to get the screen wall built. Will be copying from this post from BIGmouthinDC (thanks!).

Also, my Ceilume Stratford ceiling tiles are on the way from ISC Supply and should be here Monday. It will be cool to see the finished ceiling look with those - I'm expecting 1 hr of work to put them up but will seem like a HUGE step forward!
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post #26 of 104 Old 10-16-2011, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Did not finish the Screen Wall as planned. I had alot more success watching stuff... Apollo 13, part of Saving Private Ryan, and the Buckeye game; all were great on the big screen.

What I did get done...

- Finalized measurements for screen wall
- Bought lumber - finger joined pine from HD
- Started ceiling prep
- Finalized on Screen Size and ordered screen - Elite ezFrame 100" with acoustic pro material

Amazingly, the screen I ordered from Amazon Saturday morning 9am is supposed to arrive Monday with Amazon Prime 2 day shipping - wow! Ceiling tiles from Ceilume should arrive Monday too, so this coming week and weekend should show alot of progress with the ceiling getting completely done and the screen wall going up.


I am taking a 4 day weekend this coming week due to our local festival - the Circleville Pumpkin Show, so I should get some work in around that.
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post #27 of 104 Old 10-17-2011, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelton325 View Post

Thanks!

To answer your question, I took a "before" shot with my current room width of 10' 8" and my 97" wide row of 3, and an "after" shot subtracting 9" and simulating a 9' 11" room:
AFTER


As a fellow small space builder, I wish I could tell you "no problem, it's fine", but it was a little uncomfortable at the simulated 9' 11" width. I looked long and hard at chairs before settling on my Pacificos, which are decently narrow. If you can find something more narrow I'd probably recommend it. You may want to tape out the dimensions of your rows of chairs to get a feeling and maybe stack some boxes on the edge to get the feel for the width.

Are those Cole Haan loafers?

Also what did you use to make your layout?
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post #28 of 104 Old 10-17-2011, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Are those Cole Haan loafers?

Also what did you use to make your layout?

Why yes, I believe those are Cole Haan, but I will have to ask the Mods to move your question to the High Style thread.

Oh, and I used www.floorplanner.com for the layout. Pretty easy to use, much eaiser than SketchUp or anything else I tried.
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David, you're right, didn't expect alot of focus on apparel!

Received the Elite ezFrame AcousticPro1080 Series Screen today... they sure did get the name right, it is pretty darn easy. I had the whole thing together and on a temp mount on the wall in about 2 hrs. Spent about 30 mins trying out Transformers BRD and Monday Football (720p), and very happy with the picture. The only thing I noticed about the screen that I didn't like was that there is a reflection off the center support bar, which is behind the black backing but still reflected through. That will be a very simple fix with a can of spray paint and about 30 seconds (yes, after I take it out of the screen).

I am questioning my selection of the 100" screen... Seems like I'm giving up alot of real estate, but the 106" is discontinued and the 110" seems like that would have surpassed WAF and maybe my own. The advantage of the 100" is that I'm looking at a good 30" of clearance from the floor, which will be a huge help to row 2's viewing capability. I think I may push both rows up a foot or so to make the screen sufficiently huge. Will make final call on this as soon as screen wall is built and the screen is up on that.

I also got my ceiling tiles from Ceilume today, but one of the boxes was literally falling apart and the tiles were damaged. I kept the other box but sent the bad one back. Hopefully I can get those re-shipped soon so I can get the ceiling wrapped up.

The pink fluffy I stuffed in the ceiling is smelling HORRIBLE. Seems to be getting worse not better - I researched this a little and seems like others have had this problem. It's been up a week but it is not dissipating, little worrisome. Not sure the thin ceiling tiles will help contain this much. Any ideas welcome.

Now that I have the screen, I feel more comfortable finalizing the design measurements for my screen wall so I can be sure that it fits perfectly where I want it. I don't trust the measurements on something like this till I get it in hand. I have the lumber so probably get that step done this week no problem. Then on to the riser!





Painted rails need touched up, otherwise I like how they are turning out


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post #30 of 104 Old 10-20-2011, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelton325 View Post

Why yes, I believe those are Cole Haan, but I will have to ask the Mods to move your question to the High Style thread.

Oh, and I used www.floorplanner.com for the layout. Pretty easy to use, much eaiser than SketchUp or anything else I tried.

Sadly, I was looking at a pair like those a few weeks back, so they stuck out ot me. The ones(I know there are a few different versions of them) I tried on, were very comfortable, but was debating about the contrast from the color of the loafer and the sole.

Thanks for the link as well
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