The small & simple theater build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 120 Old 09-26-2011, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12

Current Status
as of Nov, 2012




Equipment 
- Onkyo 7.2 TX-NR609 Receiver
- Panasonic DMPBDT110 Blu-Ray Player
- HTD Level 3 Bookshelf L/R, Level 3 Center & 12" powered Sub. In-walls for sides/surrounds
- 14 guage CL3-rated spool, speaker wall plates, hdmi & ethernet wall plates
- Panasonic AE4000U
- Custom 2.35:1 104" wide Seymour Center Stage XD DIY screen
- Black velvet screen wall

- Seating: reclining sofas with drop down cup holders
- Track lights & sconces

- Small, portable 5' x 4' riser 

Remaining Items Needed
- Window treatments (Small window next to screen wall)
- Carpet

- Paint Trim & Doors
- Acoustic Panels
 

 

ORIGINAL POST

 

So we sold our first home after 4 years and moved on to our new (20 yr old home) last month. The basement is partially finished with a long narrow room that's a bit of an awkward size (about 9' 6" x 30'). I work from home and my office right now is at the back of the room, so I'll be walling it in to have a dedicated theater room about 20' long. I'll post a layout of it below with my plans for it.

I have never owned a projector, blu-ray player or 7.1 system (even though I own a 46" aquos & 40" bravia)... So I think I'm going to appreciate what I will own in the end and I'll be relying a lot on the AVS community to help me out along the way.

 

 

Current Basement Layout

- Note: there are ducts on the right side making the ceiling rather low which made me look in to 2.35 screens
- There is a small window that's about half exposed right near the screen wall. I will need advice on taking care of that, ideally I don't want to have to board it up. Perhaps insulate and cover with black, blackout blinds.




Planned Layout



Hoping to get started this weekend, speakers arrive by Friday.

Cheers!

secondhander is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 120 Old 09-26-2011, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
reserved for completed photo
secondhander is offline  
post #3 of 120 Old 10-01-2011, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Update, everything I've purchased over this past month has now arrived and unboxed... and now I'm broke:














secondhander is offline  
post #4 of 120 Old 10-18-2011, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
So I guess a minor update. I've hooked up tests and all is good. I love everything and I'm ready to rock & roll. My dad had planned to come up here on the weekend to get things started but my kiddo was sick so that was a no go. This weekend should be the start, at least to get lumber ordered, etc.

I've decided it would be best to run the riser the full width of the area, I was originally going to run it 60" wide and the door next to the rack wall but realized the back wall speaker placement would be awkward being close together firing forward. So by placing the door in the middle of the riser allows me to separate the speakers to ideal placement and then I would step down in to the office. Here's the idea:

Before (Mind the super mess)


After Mockup:


With the low hanging ducts on the left and a 12" riser, there will only be about 5'7" of walking space under the sofit. My front row reclining couch will only be 77" though and will have about 20" gap on the right side to walk up to the platform. I think I'll be ok to still be able to walk around the back seating to the door (fingers crossed). The riser would be: 94"wide x 65" deep.

Hopefully you guys would agree this is the most ideal setup for the space.
secondhander is offline  
post #5 of 120 Old 10-18-2011, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Decided to go one step further over lunch. Still not sure colours yet, red/black seems to be so standard yet I've always liked seeing the lighter, classy look others have done here.

secondhander is offline  
post #6 of 120 Old 10-18-2011, 11:51 AM
Senior Member
 
HT_SoulMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 215
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I need to get a jump back on my HT room. Fall is a busy time for me but after I enforce homework on the kids I try to sneak down in the basement and finish a small project. Are you building a soffit on the right wall to continue it? would be a option if you needed to run wires. Maybe add some recessed lighting to both.. options.. options..
HT_SoulMan is offline  
post #7 of 120 Old 10-18-2011, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT_SoulMan View Post

I need to get a jump back on my HT room. Fall is a busy time for me but after I enforce homework on the kids I try to sneak down in the basement and finish a small project. Are you building a soffit on the right wall to continue it? would be a option if you needed to run wires. Maybe add some recessed lighting to both.. options.. options..

I know options options makes me go crazy. One day I think I'm dead set on the final layout and the next I want to change it all up.

I can't run a matching soffit on the right because the gap between the soffit & the riser floor will only be a 5'7" gap. That's pretty tight and I don't want to have that same tight space on both sides. I know it would look be more aesthetically pleasing but I need more practically too. I walk to the office every day for work.

I think installing sconces on the back and track lighting at the front would be sufficient for now (There is a flush ceiling light infront of the screen wall right now which I'll just replace with a black track). I really don't want to destroy the ceilings to run wires everywhere for cans and I need to keep what $ I have left in my pocket as much as possible. Hopefully it'll have enough light in there to see with lights on lol.

Cheers
secondhander is offline  
post #8 of 120 Old 10-19-2011, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I have to say, I thought I was set on a scope screen and use zoom method for CIH (I have the ae4000). But after my tests of seeing 120" 16x9 image, it just completely sucks you right in. 75% of the use of the room will be for movies, but watching the game on 120" screen size 12' away is like you're right there!

DECISIONS DECISIONS OH MY

I'm leaning on going with 120" 16x9 and masking in the scope screen. I think if I do it right I might be able to use it as a scope screen primarily with CIH but remove the mask panels to unveil the 120"er for the big games.

I would assume that would be the best of both worlds. Does anyone else do it like that? 1.78:1 screen, mask it in for scope and use CIH primarily? The odd time going all out? Sounds like a winner to me.

Here's a mock up of the screen wall. Like I said it's wall to wall.



secondhander is offline  
post #9 of 120 Old 10-19-2011, 03:25 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,842
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 58
I'd go with an all black front end and eliminate any grey, red, and light brown flooring, near the screen. A black area rug up front would be a plus, for picture quality and help protect contrast.

I'd also shrink the screen slightly and not be so fixed on wall to wall.
Tedd is offline  
post #10 of 120 Old 11-07-2011, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
So some updates finally.

First off I ordered my seating and it arrived last week. After much debating (and a very tiny budget) we decided to go with reclining sofas. Large sofa for the front row and the loveseat for the back. The full couch has cup holders that drop down in the middle for some at least a little bit of a theater feel. I don't have a big space and they fit quite nicely (also under $1000 for the pair).





Being from canada ordering anything from monoprice normally doesn't make sense because the shipping costs are massive. However, after looking around for a telescopic projector mount someone in the panny 4000 thread posted a link while back to one from monoprice. All the rest I've looked at would cost me about $200 to get it here and even though I paid $33 to ship, the thing was only $12 so the total was only $45 LOL. Saved me a bit of money there, I ordered on Wednesday and it arrived by UPS on Friday. Pretty awesome service monoprice.

I also ordered 113" diag 2.35:1 AT screen material from Seymour (104" wide) it's going to be perfect!

This weekend we also started some construction finally. The wall seperating my office to the theater is basically two 3.5" walls buddied against each other. The inner wall to the theater will house the in wall back speakers and the outer wall in to my office supports double pocket doors. I decided two 24" doors is just more ideal for me so I'm not in such an enclosed space during the days (It's my 9-5 grind back there). It was a bit confusing figuring this out never installing a pocket door before.

Saturday we picked up lumber, cut out the laminate floor and started the framing for the inner wall.

EOD Saturday:





Sunday we picked up where we left off and finished the framing for both sides of the wall and installed the headers of the pocket doors. Added a box for a lightswitch for the office and drilled holes to run the speakers wires through.

EOD Sunday:



This shot you can see how the two walls come together.



Next up:
- Cut doors to the length and hang them up
- Install the split studs for the door framing.
- Run wires & dry wall

Things still left to purchase:

- Shelving for in wall rack
- Black velvet for entire screen wall & borders
- Track lights & sconces
- Riser platform build
- Paint
- Window treatments (Small window next to screen wall)
- Carpet

PS Tip for anyone planning to do their own. Everything takes longer than you think doing it yourself.
secondhander is offline  
post #11 of 120 Old 11-07-2011, 10:32 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Felgar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 2,502
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have a couple thoughts for what they're worth. First, your riser tucked in the rear presents a great opportunity to get some broadband bass absorbtion. If you haven't considered it, check out this thread which is very similar to your design: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1103345 If you follow through the whole thing he ended up with some nice accoustic results/measurements. The main thing is to leave the inner joists shorter so that there's an air gap underneath them which makes the whole riser into 1 large cavity.

Secondly, I think it would be worthwhile contemplating how to best utilize the area behind the screen for some bass trapping as well - even if it meant building the screen a foot closer to the seats...

Looks like you're off and running. You're right about everything taking longer; I've experienced that first hand. Just be thankful you didn't get the hair-brained notion to try to soundproof the whole area.
Felgar is offline  
post #12 of 120 Old 11-08-2011, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Felgar View Post

I have a couple thoughts for what they're worth. First, your riser tucked in the rear presents a great opportunity to get some broadband bass absorbtion. If you haven't considered it, check out this thread which is very similar to your design: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1103345 If you follow through the whole thing he ended up with some nice accoustic results/measurements. The main thing is to leave the inner joists shorter so that there's an air gap underneath them which makes the whole riser into 1 large cavity.

Secondly, I think it would be worthwhile contemplating how to best utilize the area behind the screen for some bass trapping as well - even if it meant building the screen a foot closer to the seats...

Looks like you're off and running. You're right about everything taking longer; I've experienced that first hand. Just be thankful you didn't get the hair-brained notion to try to soundproof the whole area.


Thanks Felgar.

I'm a complete newb to sound acoustics to start with so I probably won't be able to take full advantage of treating the room without the advice from others here. One thing about the riser is that I can't have vents all around the edges of it, I have to walk around the loveseat on it to get to my office which is an every day trip.

Ideally, I'd like to get everything in shape first, run tests and then add the treatments as necessary afterwards. The screen wall will be completely removable to get behind and even the riser I don't plan to fully attach so I can treat it as needed as well. I want the option of taking it all down in the event of a deal breaker for reselling the house down the road.

Minor update: I ordered 12 yards of Black Plush Triple Velvet from Sy Fabrics for front wall
secondhander is offline  
post #13 of 120 Old 11-13-2011, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Couldn't do much this weekend, decided to spend a couple of days with my wife & son. Sometimes we get caught up with other things you start to forget about the important stuff in life.

We did manage to purchase the lighting for the room and we have our family friend electrician coming next weekend to run the wiring that's needed, run line for equipment, etc. So over the next couple of weeks things should really start moving along quicker.

These are the sconces got from a specialty lighting store in town (Weren't exactly cheap at $150/ea but wife is happy):



Also picked up this track lighting just from home depot to light up screen and room. Total of 5 lights; 2 to light up screen and 3 to light the front row area. The sconces are for the back and will actually get pretty bright with 60w bulbs (sconces will be on a dimmer):



Should be finishing up the doors/back walls in the next day or two and my center stage xd screen material arrives tomorrow as does 12 yards of black velvet from sy fabrics.
secondhander is offline  
post #14 of 120 Old 11-13-2011, 07:51 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RTROSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 6,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Welcome to the madness. Looks like you are off to a good start. Really like the sconces.

You are smart to remember that family is first, they grow up very fast and life too often gets in the way.

I'll be watching with interest, your mockups look good.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
RTROSE is offline  
post #15 of 120 Old 11-14-2011, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Thanks RT

I've also realized "Small & Simple" should only be for threads with flat panels on stands & speaker wires tucked under baseboards lol.

It IS madness, I literally often lay in bed thinking about the room and what's next to do and what the final look will turn out to be. The "I want it done" thread is the most appropriately labeled thread imo lol.
secondhander is offline  
post #16 of 120 Old 11-14-2011, 11:52 PM
Member
 
domz777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 22
No, no, no honey, nothing extravagant or expensive. You'll see. A quick coat of paint, stick a projector on the ceiling, toss in a couch, maybe an extra speaker or two, a dark rug - bingo. Home theater. Done in less than a week, guarenteed.

LMAO!! Oh, it always starts out so inocently, doesn't it.
domz777 is offline  
post #17 of 120 Old 11-15-2011, 08:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
W00lly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NEBRASKA
Posts: 2,196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I hope my scope screen demo mite have changed your mind. Mines 120" when not watching scope then 12' wide zoomed in for scope. you could put together a pretty sweet acoustically transparent screen cheap if you DIY it. Seymour AV sells all the goods you need. I plan on switching over to the center stage XD material as it has a much tighter weave then the SMX.

You have a great start can't wait to see it put together

http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp

Scott

The CopperFields Cinema

          Current Photo's

W00lly is offline  
post #18 of 120 Old 11-16-2011, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

I hope my scope screen demo mite have changed your mind. Mines 120" when not watching scope then 12' wide zoomed in for scope. you could put together a pretty sweet acoustically transparent screen cheap if you DIY it. Seymour AV sells all the goods you need. I plan on switching over to the center stage XD material as it has a much tighter weave then the SMX.

You have a great start can't wait to see it put together

http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp

Thanks W00lly - That's exactly what I'm doing actually. I bought 113" screen material from Chris @ Seymour . - It just arrived Monday rolled up in a tube!

Can't wait to build the screen wall for it.
secondhander is offline  
post #19 of 120 Old 11-16-2011, 06:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RTROSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 6,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by secondhander View Post

Thanks W00lly - That's exactly what I'm doing actually. I bought 113" screen material from Chris @ Seymour . - It just arrived Monday rolled up in a tube!

Can't wait to build the screen wall for it.

Just be sure you take lots of pics of your adventure.


Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
RTROSE is offline  
post #20 of 120 Old 11-21-2011, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
So another update this time got the wiring done. It's hard to show pictures of wiring because well its just holes, boxes & wires lol!

It was pretty clear that the finished area of the basement was originally not done by professionals and the previous homeowner did a bees nest of a job wiring it. So my electrician came on Saturday (who happens to be a family friend thankfully) and did a bunch of work for me. There were 3 ceiling lights originally in the basement, one in my office area and two in the open area. Instead of just wiring from one light to the next to the next, the guy put a junction box in the ceiling and ran them off of that.

So that freaked out my electrician, he said that's how fires start and he put it in the wall frame instead and we'll be putting an access panel to it. He rewired it from there to my office and the sconces with switches.

Here is where he found the junction box concealed and you can see he moved it to the framing:



He then centered my ceiling light for me in the office since we walled it off the light in that area was very close to the framing before:



Then added a switch for it:


After that he ran a line from the junction box to the sconces. First to one that was most accessible and then from that he ran over the ceiling to install the 2nd one. He also ran a switch for that at the front of the room which I'll be changing to a dimmer switch this week. I need to add a retrofit box for the second sconce wiring still, just didn't have that on hand.

Main sconce box:


Sconce for opposite (needs retrofit box)


Switch for sconces (will change to dimmer)


He then changed the light that was in the middle of the room to an outlet for me for the projector which happens to be right next to where I'm mounting it. (He didn't make the mess of a job around it, that was the hack job the owner did before when he put up the light originally). He then hung up my track light which is used to light up the screen wall and is wired to the main switch that was for all 3 lights before.




That was everything done on Saturday. Sunday I took a break and hung up Christmas lights.

Next up is drywall patching, drywalling back wall & running speaker wires.

Cheers
secondhander is offline  
post #21 of 120 Old 11-21-2011, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Also - Just wanted to add one more note, is there any threads on window treatments? You can see in the last photo above on the left I have a tiny window to take care of. My plan so far is to insulate it and cover it with blackout blinds. I can't have ANY light spill out of it because that is going to be right next to my screen wall. I know 90% of you would probably say insulate & drywall it up but I'm trying to keep things simple at least for now.

Thoughts?
secondhander is offline  
post #22 of 120 Old 11-21-2011, 09:05 AM
Advanced Member
 
HDvids4all's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 697
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by secondhander View Post

Also - Just wanted to add one more note, is there any threads on window treatments? You can see in the last photo above on the left I have a tiny window to take care of. My plan so far is to insulate it and cover it with blackout blinds. I can't have ANY light spill out of it because that is going to be right next to my screen wall. I know 90% of you would probably say insulate & drywall it up but I'm trying to keep things simple at least for now.

Thoughts?

How about a window plug? Here's a good drawing from CJO for his window plugs in the Dark Knight theater..



From this post.
HDvids4all is offline  
post #23 of 120 Old 11-21-2011, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDvids4all View Post

How about a window plug? Here's a good drawing from CJO for his window plugs in the Dark Knight theater..



From this post.


Wow that's fantastic. I don't think I have a "lip" around the window sill to keep in place but something like that would work great. I should have lots of black velvet left over maybe I could wrap it with that.

Thanks for the suggestion!
secondhander is offline  
post #24 of 120 Old 11-22-2011, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Well dad came up today and did a bit of work. Cut the split studs for my pocket door and made the frame stronger.

Then we ran the speaker wires from the rack room to the front wall. Of course it'd be 100x times easier without drywall & a ceiling to deal with. Getting a wire 15' against floor joists turns out to be a freaking bitch of a job. Success though!

I'll wire up the wall plates later tonight.



secondhander is offline  
post #25 of 120 Old 11-24-2011, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Nothing new to report. I just decided to make some scope screen wallpapers over lunch with the intention of having one shown before movies. Might never use them but they look pretty cool. Main images just ripped from google of course. Sorry I didn't resize them they are full 1920x1080.







secondhander is offline  
post #26 of 120 Old 11-24-2011, 02:21 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RTROSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 6,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Looks like some good progress on the wiring front. The wallpapers look pretty good to. Well done.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
RTROSE is offline  
post #27 of 120 Old 11-26-2011, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Looks like some good progress on the wiring front. The wallpapers look pretty good to. Well done.

Regards,

RTROSE


Thanks RT, it's coming.


Small update. I ran the wires for the side inwall speakers today and installed them. Also ran the wires for the back wall as well. While I did that my dad installed the split studs for the pocket doors.

Finally starting to see some progress now. Last wire left to run is HDMI to projector but will be easy (no real obstructions).

I have at least a half day of drywall patching ahead of me but it feels good to have run wires everywhere for all lighting, switches, & speakers without having to rip down walls/ceiling (not soundproofing obv and not within budget anyway).




Items Left (Hoping to be 90% done by Christmas - cross fingers)

- Drywall back wall
- Install rear in-wall speakers
- Install pocket doors
- Build in-wall shelf for rack
- Patch all holes in walls/ceilings
- Build front wall frame
- Build screen
- Mount Projector
- Paint
- Build riser
- Carpet
- Window Plug
secondhander is offline  
post #28 of 120 Old 11-28-2011, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
1 down 11 to go

- Drywall back wall
- Install rear in-wall speakers
- Install pocket doors
- Build in-wall shelf for rack
- Patch all holes in walls/ceilings
- Build front wall frame
- Build screen
- Mount Projector
- Paint
- Build riser
- Carpet
- Window Plug

I've run in to an issue and that for some reason or another I chose to ignore, please chime in if you have some thoughts.

So I put together my PJ mount yesterday just to get familiar with it. Having to drop down 18" or so from the ceiling to meet the top of the screen is A LOT, especially when the 13.5' sweet spot distance from screen I was planning for lands the PJ directly above the riser platform area to walk to the 2nd seat. (13.5' is also where a floor joist is that I was going to take advantage of.) Needless to say you'd bang your head if I mounted it there. I can't really move the back row further back so my only option is to move the PJ forward or backward to avoid it.

According to projector central I can move it as close as 12' from the screen or as far back as 16' and be within the green light. So moving it a foot closer to the screen is probably more ideal for screen brightness and it would avoid the head banging issue. However doing this it would then be mounted pretty much right directly above the front & center seat and probably distracting for the seat behind it. I'd also probably have to put a big piece of board between the floor joists in order to mount it and I find those setups.... less than ideal looking.

On the other hand if I move it backwards to about 16' it would end up right above the backrow center seat where there would be no distractions for show time. Downside with this is I would lose a bit of brightness and the backrow seat still *might end up hitting his head if he's not careful.

Anyone else run in to an issue of the PJ mount having to be low and where to place it? I'm thinking above front row is best since 90% of the viewings will be just us in the front row so take advantage of any added brightness I can get.
secondhander is offline  
post #29 of 120 Old 11-28-2011, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
secondhander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Current status, sorry doesn't show too much most efforts have been back wall & wiring:

From screen area looking towards back


From office looking in
secondhander is offline  
post #30 of 120 Old 11-28-2011, 02:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RTROSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Central Indiana
Posts: 6,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Ok,

Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you have to hang the pj 18" down from the mount? I don't know a lot about the panny but it has vertical and horizontal lens shift should you not be able to use that to correct for the mounting height? Maybe you have thought of that and I'm full of you know what, but I was under the impression that lens shift would work in just this very situation. I'm trying to find a user manual to double check.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
RTROSE is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off