LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment build - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I'd like to run my acoustics plan by you and see if anyone objects to anything or has any ideas for improvement.

What I'd like to accomplish is to provide some standard practice acoustical treatments to baseline my room's acoustical performance. Beyond this plan I can add/tweak what I've already done to address issues that crop up.

As the room stands, rocked, the sound in the room is very comfortable. There's little to no echo. That may change with mud/paint, but I don't think by much (I could be wrong). So, I'm pleased with that. I did the clapping test and there is nothing.

Here's what I'm planning on currently:
  1. Linacoustic or equivolent treatment along the front wall. I don't have a cover planned for the linacoustic. Do I need one?
  2. I will build triangle corner bass traps in the front behind the screen using stacked and cut R30 insulation. My structure will be made from cheap-o 1by2's and will have bracing in levels so the insulation doesn't compress. Then I'll cover it with a black muslin or other cheap black mostly transparent cloth.
  3. I will build two acoustic panels on each side to handle first reflections. You can see the placement in my design mockup. The frames will be built to support 2" OC703 with a 1" air gap to the wall. Then I'll cover it with a custom printed cloth from Spoonflower (or whatever that place is called). The panels will be about 3 feet by 5 feet.

I don't have any plans yet for the back of the room, so if you think I should put something there, please let me know!

I figure the cost of this will run me about $300-$350, and I'm hoping I'm not wasting my money.

Any feedback is appreciated! Thanks!

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 10:43 AM
AVS Special Member
 
adammb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 1,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You definitely are not wasting money. You can easily spend $1000 in acoustics and not feel like you got taken as long as you do it correctly. I paid about 2-300 just for a consult and was in the same place as you but figured it would be worth it after everyone kept telling me it would and boy was I right.

I would do about 2 -3 more of those down the side of the room although at the back you should have a facing that will reflect the highs. On the back wall I would double up that 2" and put a facing on it as well for the bass. I hope this helps. I would recommend the OC703 as the corner traps as well instead of insulation. Not sure the difference but have never seen anyone that says its worth it to substitute.

Adam

My Theater build
Ribbed for your pleasure
adammb is offline  
post #93 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 10:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

I would recommend the OC703 as the corner traps as well instead of insulation. Not sure the difference but have never seen anyone that says its worth it to substitute.

Uh oh, I think you just stepped in it.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #94 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

You definitely are not wasting money. You can easily spend $1000 in acoustics and not feel like you got taken as long as you do it correctly. I paid about 2-300 just for a consult and was in the same place as you but figured it would be worth it after everyone kept telling me it would and boy was I right.

I would do about 2 -3 more of those down the side of the room although at the back you should have a facing that will reflect the highs. On the back wall I would double up that 2" and put a facing on it as well for the bass. I hope this helps. I would recommend the OC703 as the corner traps as well instead of insulation. Not sure the difference but have never seen anyone that says its worth it to substitute.

I do feel pretty good about spending at least a few hundred bucks. Thanks for the reinforcement! I was thinking about building shelving between the last two columns, but if that falls through, I'll definitely add more panels there.

About the back of the room. Are you saying I should stack two 2" panels so I have a total of 4", and that would help with frequencies that are closer to the bass range? And then face it to retain brightness on the high end. Right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Uh oh, I think you just stepped in it.

I have read a few different places that people have used loose fluffy as bass traps because they have good gas flow resistance. (I think that's the term anyway) The cost to me is about $40 for 1x2's and 2-3 rolls. The OC703 here is about $85 for a box of six 2" 2x4ft boards. I'd need 3 boxes to fill both corners, which is about $250.

I figured I could try the cheaper route, which has been said to work, and upgrade if need be. I'm at near end of my budget, so every $100 counts!

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #95 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 11:31 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 57
I believe for SuperChunk style traps, pink fluffy is said to be more effective when it gets past a certain depth, and higher density better before that. So I think your bass trap approach is fine.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #96 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 12:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
adammb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 1,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Exactly. At least that is what I learned after about 3 months of research.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post


About the back of the room. Are you saying I should stack two 2" panels so I have a total of 4", and that would help with frequencies that are closer to the bass range? And then face it to retain brightness on the high end. Right?

Your are probably good on the corners as well I just thought i would throw that out there in case you wanted to change.

Adam

My Theater build
Ribbed for your pleasure
adammb is offline  
post #97 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 12:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Spaceman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Houston
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

Exactly. At least that is what I learned after about 3 months of research.

Your are probably good on the corners as well I just thought i would throw that out there in case you wanted to change.

I'm planning the same for the back of my room. 4" total on the back wall. 2" unfaced directly against the wall. 2" w/ FSK over that.
Spaceman is offline  
post #98 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
When I'm doing the treatments for the back wall, do I go all the way down near to the floor? It seems like the seating and people would be blocking the lower third of the wall at least. So, the sound waves would be at the very least broken up, and partly absorbed by the furniture.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #99 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 01:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
adammb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 1,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It's up to you but I would say yes. This is for Bass not directional sound. The person and the chair is not going to block that much that I would say it is not needed. Mine goes to the top of the rear riser.

Adam

My Theater build
Ribbed for your pleasure
adammb is offline  
post #100 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 01:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Spaceman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Houston
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

The cost to me is about $40 for 1x2's and 2-3 rolls. The OC703 here is about $85 for a box of six 2" 2x4ft boards. I'd need 3 boxes to fill both corners, which is about $250.

I had been planning on OC703 along my back wall until I received a quote that substituted Knauf panels. Like the OC703, they come 6 panels/case. I got my cases for $48 ea., or $1/sf. My faced panels were also supposed to be Knauf, but they wound up giving me Certainteed. Those were $67/case of 6, or 1.40/sf. Since you are watching your pocket book, you might try finding a local distributor that carries one of the alternative manufacturers (JM Insulshield, Certainteed, Knauf).

While the distributor I used is a national chain, it appears their closest branch to you is in Chicago.

As Adam recommended, I would suggest a floor to ceiling treatment on your back wall.
Spaceman is offline  
post #101 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

It's up to you but I would say yes. This is for Bass not directional sound. The person and the chair is not going to block that much that I would say it is not needed. Mine goes to the top of the rear riser.

Thanks, I'll cover as much as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I had been planning on OC703 along my back wall until I received a quote that substituted Knauf panels. Like the OC703, they come 6 panels/case. I got my cases for $48 ea., or $1/sf. My faced panels were also supposed to be Knauf, but they wound up giving me Certainteed. Those were $67/case of 6, or 1.40/sf. Since you are watching your pocket book, you might try finding a local distributor that carries one of the alternative manufacturers (JM Insulshield, Certainteed, Knauf).

While the distributor I used is a national chain, it appears their closest branch to you is in Chicago.

As Adam recommended, I would suggest a floor to ceiling treatment on your back wall.

Are you talking about their black acoustical board? That stuff looks great and it's black so it won't show through any porous dark fabric I choose for my treatments.

I also found Certainteed's alternative to OC703.

Also, if I can find bracing for it, I like the JM Spin Glas since it's fermeldahyde free.

I'm open to other alternatives. I'm calling my dealers here locally and I know that at the very least, I can get OC703 for about $85 per box.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #102 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 06:45 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Spaceman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Houston
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

Are you talking about their black acoustical board? That stuff looks great and it's black so it won't show through any porous dark fabric I choose for my treatments.

My guess is their black acoustical board will be much more expensive than their std. 3 pcf board. I'm using the std. board, which is also somewhat dark in color.
http://www.knaufinsulation.us/produc...ith_ecose.aspx

Quote:


Also, if I can find bracing for it, I like the JM Spin Glas since it's fermeldahyde free.

That particular product is not comparable to OC703. You want something that is 3 pcf and it looks like the spin glass only comes in 1 and 2 pcf. The Knauf panels in the link above are formaldehyde free.
Spaceman is offline  
post #103 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
And I was checking the pfc on all of them! I must have missed the Spin Glas spec. D'oh!

Thanks for the info everyone, I think I have what I need to order my stuff.

NOW, down to try my hand at mudding for the first time. I'm armed with internet videos and tips from a friend. If I don't emerge in a few days, send help! Likely, I will have found a way to mud and tape myself into a corner.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #104 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 07:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Spaceman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Houston
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

NOW, down to try my hand at mudding for the first time. I'm armed with internet videos and tips from a friend. If I don't emerge in a few days, send help! Likely, I will have found a way to mud and tape myself into a corner.

Good luck with that. I'm as cheap as they come, but had no problem writing a check for that part of my build.
Spaceman is offline  
post #105 of 316 Old 05-11-2012, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Good luck with that. I'm as cheap as they come, but had no problem writing a check for that part of my build.

I prefer "adventurous". (though, to be honest, I strongly considered doling out the $300 or so)

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #106 of 316 Old 05-14-2012, 08:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jdanforth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

And I was checking the pfc on all of them! I must have missed the Spin Glas spec. D'oh!

Thanks for the info everyone, I think I have what I need to order my stuff.

NOW, down to try my hand at mudding for the first time. I'm armed with internet videos and tips from a friend. If I don't emerge in a few days, send help! Likely, I will have found a way to mud and tape myself into a corner.

I wish I had hired somebody to do that!
jdanforth is offline  
post #107 of 316 Old 05-16-2012, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I wish I had hired somebody to do that!

I kind of wish I had, too. I'm taking it slow and doing the parts behind the stage first to practice. It's not too bad, and I think I'll do a great enough job.

The tape seemed to be leaching a lot of the moisture out of the mud, so I ran it through water first. That was too much moisture, and the mud became goopy. Then I wet a washcloth, and ran my tape through that. That seems to work well.

I think I'm fortunate that my ceiling is very broken up. If I had long seems running down the middle of my ceiling, I can guess that I'd have a harder time perfecting it.

Oh, and on outside corners, I used metal bead that had tape on the outside of it. Then I used Drywall Adhesive from HD to just glue it on. This worked very well! I highly recommend it.

I've got the first coat on the front wall and the new side wall.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #108 of 316 Old 05-17-2012, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
One more question about acoustics. (all rights reserved to continue with more questions at a later time)

On the front right corner of my room, where my right bass trap is going, I have an out jut where my foundation come out. I'd like to put a corner trap here.

Option1: Make a smaller trap only 20" on the short edges.

Option2: Make a larger trap with 24" on the short edges, but it's not really a triangle.

I'm not really sure how to handle the odd shape.

Here's a picture and diagram.


My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #109 of 316 Old 05-22-2012, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I have to choose my front wall product, please help! I need about 200sqft of duct liner.

1. I can get 400sqft of Linacoustic 1" for $245.
2. I can get 400sqft of Knauf Sonix XP duct liner 1" for $200. I prefer this option because it's formaldehyde free.
3. I can get 200sqft (100' by 2') of the Anco System 7000 Duct liner. I've attached the spec sheet here. It's $71 for the 200sqft (much cheaper).



Right now, I'm leaning toward the second option. Since I'd have so much left over, could I double it up on the front wall and have two layers of 1", yielding a two inch layer? And if so, would you recommend a 6mil plastic layer in between the two layers to maintain brightness?

 

20120522_101457.pdf 259.0703125k . file

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #110 of 316 Old 05-22-2012, 08:44 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 57
I'd do option 3, and save some bucks - the absorption coefficients look comparable to other commonly used materials (OC 703, Linacoustic). If I doubled up on 1", I would not use a plastic layer between or on top - for the front wall, you want full absorption.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #111 of 316 Old 05-22-2012, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Another option just occurred to me. I can get the the Knauf 2" 3pcf rigid insulation (oc703 equivalent) for about $1/sqft. That's also formaldehyde free.

I could cover the ~60 square feet of my front wall with that for about $60. They'd probably be easier to mount than 2 overlapping strips of 1" linacoustic, I would assume.

Any gotchas to using the rigid board instead of the duct liner?

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #112 of 316 Old 05-22-2012, 11:35 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 57
The only gotcha is Linacoustic and the Anco product you mentioned both have a nice sealed layer on one side, which means that you don't need to cover it with fabric to keep loose fibers from escaping. I used OC 703, but covered it with cheap speaker cloth - just because OC 703 was a lot cheaper than Linacoustic locally. After adding the speaker cloth, I probably didn't save much.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #113 of 316 Old 05-22-2012, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
That makes perfect sense to me. Thanks Brad!

My wife is kind of a stickler for safety and perceived "safety" (if you know what I mean), so I'd probably have to cover the linacoustic anyway.

I'll just get a boatload of the rigid board and cover it like you did.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #114 of 316 Old 05-31-2012, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I'm hoping some of you out there can help me make a choice. I'm at a point here where I need to decide whether or not to build a 16" riser.

From how you've used your theaters, what would you recommend? I like the bar because you can eat on it or use the computer on a desk like surface. I like the riser because it gives you a nice extra row of really comfortable seating. Also, it makes the room look more "dedicated". A downside is that I'm 6' 2", so I'd definitely have to duck to access those seats.

I've mocked up a couple of renders that are close. You'll notice the room gets narrower in the rear due to the stairs and a/v rack. I'm also not what I'm going to be doing with the space behind the bar/riser, so if you have any ideas, they are welcome!

What do you think?




My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #115 of 316 Old 05-31-2012, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I've finished my first coat of taping and mudding. It went pretty well. You definitely get better as you go along. I really glad I did the hidden walls first!

I hope I can finish the sanding and finish coats in the next week.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #116 of 316 Old 05-31-2012, 04:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Re: bar or second row of seats on a riser - in your first post you mentioned movies, but not sports - if you're planning on more informal events, snacks, sports, bar makes perfect sense. If not, and you really want a movie theater - I'd do the second row on a riser. You mentioned a snack area on the side, so maybe that would serve the purpose if you're kind of in the middle ground, between formal and informal.

Re: the space behind the second row - definitely a mirror ball and a small dance floor.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #117 of 316 Old 05-31-2012, 07:20 PM
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 509
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 47
meyer64 is offline  
post #118 of 316 Old 06-01-2012, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Re: bar or second row of seats on a riser - in your first post you mentioned movies, but not sports - if you're planning on more informal events, snacks, sports, bar makes perfect sense. If not, and you really want a movie theater - I'd do the second row on a riser. You mentioned a snack area on the side, so maybe that would serve the purpose if you're kind of in the middle ground, between formal and informal.

Re: the space behind the second row - definitely a mirror ball and a small dance floor.

Unfortunately, my dancing, or what most people refer to as "flailing without thought for safety", could not be contained in such a small area.

I had my builder friend over last night and he mention maybe building a dart board. That seemed kind of cool. I suppose it'll come to me what I can do with the space.

I think you're right about the seating.

What I didn't like the most about my seating option was the height of the riser, which was based off of Berkline recliners in the front row. I had always figured that I'd have sectional seating in the front row, but I wanted the option to put in recliners. Now, I'm forgoing that option in favor of lowering the riser height to a less ridiculous height.

My sectionals, which I already own, are a little under 30" high. This helps tremendously for the visibility of the back row. I was able to lower the riser to a standard 7" step height. I will have a width of about 93", which allows me to put in two full sized recliners, a loveseat recliner, or a simple couch. Also nice, the left recliner is perfectly centered to the screen.

Take a look, I think it looks sharp!


My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #119 of 316 Old 06-01-2012, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
stevegravley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyer64 View Post

Steve, whats your source for the duct liner? those are pretty good prices compared to what I've been finding.

For the duct liner, I was working with John Hansen at API Distribution. That was the Anco Liner at $.355 per sqft.

For the OC703 Knauf equivalent, I am working with Jim Romansky at Tristar Insulation. He quoted me $.975 per sqft with 80sqft per package of the 2" 3pfc ridgid board. I am choosing this option for Knauf's ECOSE no formaldehyde option.

These are both companies that are local to me here in the Twin Cities, MN.

My home theater build thread
LEVEL 4: Center for Entertainment
stevegravley is offline  
post #120 of 316 Old 06-01-2012, 08:02 AM
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 509
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 47
meyer64 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Tags
Hsu Vtf 15h Subwoofer , Sony Strda3500es 7 1 Channel Home Theater Receiver , Xbox 360 250gb Console With Kinect

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off