Hiya, Fred! I just read through the last few pages and wanted to say nice job so far, dude. The attention to detail is impressive, and now, you're pickin' up the pace, too. No pressure though, I know how the weeks can slip by. Heh
Keep at it, thought. My wife was just barely on board (like "why did I ever agree to this?!"-barely), and near the end here, she's really impressed. It's amazing to see it come together, and you'll be there soon. Like Mr. Tim said, once you finish the interior, you get re-invigorated. Doing the interior room "bling" stuff requires much less motivation, and you're nearing that point.
The guy at Lowe's took the sample from me and said confidently that it was maple, and then proceeded to say that they don't have anything quite like that. I think he was thrown off by the fact that it's only 3/8" thick. He was able to show me some samples that were a reasonable color match, but not very close overall. Then he looked at the back of the sample I brought and said it looked like Parquet flooring and that I should go to Floor & Decor. So I did.
The guys at Floor & Decor looked at it and concluded the same as I had browsing the samples; the flooring is engineered oak. We went over to the right section and he explained that they only had one that would be a close match. Here's the photo I took.
You can see in the picture that my sample is not as wide, but that's because of how I cut it out - the dimensions match.
So I'm not ready to buy today, obviously, but I needed to know what the process would look like in terms of timeline and availability. The guy writes down the product code (I think) and description and price and explains the availability, and I'm on my way.
Back at home, I look it up on their website, and I don't think I've got the right product number. I'm pretty sure the product we looked at was labeled "rustic" and the code he gave me come to this:
Which is supposed to be "natural" not "rustic." The rustic oak is the next picture, but neither product matches the price he gave me. This one is labeled on the website as being 5" wide, so it can't be right. dagnabbit.
He also explained that there was no matching stair bullnose, which I will need 40 or 50 feet of. He says I'll need to have someone mill me some and then stain it myself. I hope there's a better way.
Nice work cutting that piece to fit, BTW. That sort of thing is a real time consuming pain.
That flooring looks like white oak. At 3/8" thick you may want to check out someplace like lumber liquidators. Or maybe you can source just the nosing there.
Is it nail down/glue down?
I wondered about lumber liquidators as well, but wasn't sure if they would have 3/8" nosing. I bought quite a bit of 3/4" nosing from them in the past, and they were MUCH cheaper than anywhere else I could find.
The target height for the landing is right at 14 1/4" See photo. I'm planning to tear up the tread here and match up the height with the new flooring/landing. I'll have to do something creative, but I'm not sure what yet. I hope this exercise will make the answer clear.
Subtract out 3/8" for the existing floor, glued to the concrete, which I won't be removing. New target=13 7/8. One 2x12 (11 1/2") floor joist leaves me with 2 3/8" Two layer of 3/4" subfloor is goof for 1 1/2" and the new flooring on top is another 3/8". That leaves 1/2 difference. doublecheck: 11.5 (joist) + 1.5 (double subfloor) + 0.375 (new floor) = 13.375
So what do I do about the 1/2" difference? I could cut it from the stringer after I pull up the old tread, but that leaves the last step to be 1/2 taller than the others, which even if code allows, I'd prefer to avoid. I suppose the solution is another 1/2" layer of sheet goods - or since the real target is just a fuzz short of 14 1/4, the big-box standard 7/16 OSB could be the best fit.
(EDIT: my blind figuring about these dimensions continues for a few more posts, based on the erroneous conception that a 2x12 is 11.5 inches wide. It's not. It's 11.25)
Fred, I can't figure out what you're saying. A sketch would help!
If you have ~14" height difference.. then I assume you have a step in the middle. Can't you just make the riser whatever you want and adjust the height of the middle step to compensate?
Your progressing so fast that you have gone Plaid!
Oh and I have skipped the math part, math is not my strong suit. I leave all of my math for aaustin.
I have a drawing for you, but I've included in it a layer I may not need - the PT 2x4. In exchange I've changed the 2x12 joist I had been planning to a 2x10. I haven't rerun the numbers to see where that ends up.
Thanks for helping!
(Edit: two days later, I went back and posted more clear information about what this conversation is working to accomplish. You can see that post here. And you can see the post Tim refers to where he found context to help me here.
Careful! When I come screeching to a halt, don't be in the way!
Basically you just need the finish floor height to be the same as the current tread height ±3/8".
So with your 3/8" finish flooring you could use just about anything. If you ran a layer of 3/4" ply on top of the stringer and then the flooring over that, you are at 1-1/8", which you yield a riser 1/8" less that the others. Chances are if you measure the existing risers you will find that variation already exists.
The steps down from the riser can be whatever they have to be.. at that point they are technically a second stair so the risers can change.. just keep them equal in that run.
Nice drawing Fred. This was EXACTLY what I was going to do when I had my theater door at the bottom of my basement steps so there would be one continuous plane onto my theater riser. The platform would also extend to the opposite hallway wall (another 3 feet wide) to be considered a proper landing before stepping down the one final step onto the real floor level just above the concrete.
I have only two comments on your drawing. First is on the "new floor in place of old tread"....whatever the height is between the top of one step and the top of the next step is the target height between the "new floor" and the height of the first tread heading up the steps within 3/8". Some inspectors will allow up to 3/4" height difference for the first step only, but keep that in mind.
And second, you don't necessarily need to build your riser on PT 2x4 unless you are using it for height. You could literally use pink sill gasket (comes in a big roll) with standard lumber or even upgrade your construction and go for the joist isolators from the Soundproofing Company http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-accessories/joist-isolators/ Or to save on material there's always the option of building the perimeter with 2x10, 2x12 or whatever height is needed and then filling the infield with 2x6 joists 12" OC with joist hangers.
Just a few thoughts.
Doing it that way allows you to take out any unevenness in the concrete floor, and also allows for any bows in the lumber. Trying to lay the joists directly onto the floor (or onto a sleeper onto the floor) is usually an exercise in futility.
For the 5/8 layer, the only thing I've found is this which is $6.50 for 8 sq feet - only 1/4 of a normal sheet. So it costs a lot more than 3/4 subfloor. Plus, 5/8 is the "Assembled height" product thickness is 0.5938 or 19/32. I suppose that's close enough, but it aggravates me. Does anyone know of a cost-effective true 5/8" solution?
Thanks for all your help guys.
Making up the 12 1/8 is still the hard part. 11.5 for a 2x12, then 5/8 from my magic hat!
I'd go with a single vertical piece of lumber, such as the 2x12, and make up any height deficiencies with one extra layer of sheet material. It nothing else it will make your landing feel even more solid.
EDIT: There should be 5/8" OSB (actually 19/32") readily available in 4x8 sheets at the big box stores.
As TMcG suggested, I would just shim up the 2x12. Get a few precuts of 5/8 ply and rip some strips to support the 2x12. I would put some poly or roofing paper between the strips and the floor for good measure.
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