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post #691 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 01:41 PM
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I wasn't willing to forgo the soffit in the back. Not only do I want it for exhaust ducting for the projector, I haven't allowed for any other way to get power and video to the projector!

My first impression is I think I like that. How tall is that curved mini-soffit? Is it tall enough to get some rope lighting in there? That might be a cool effect to make it look like a design feature rather than something that had to be done out of necessity. Maybe some back lit lettering?


Edit: This post wrapped to the next page for me, so I quoted your image so it would be at the top of the page

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post #692 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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That was the balance I was trying for: I don't want it to look like a hack. So (with Ben's design help) I've hopefully echoed the curve of the intended proscenium. The face is only 3 inches, but some lighting would be ideal, and is something we discussed today while we got the rough framing figured out and up. More pictures later.


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post #693 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Just for explaining for anyone interested in the design details: The side/main soffits are framed 10 inches deep - plus two layers 5/8 DW will lead to overall depth of 11.25 inches. The main soffits are framed at 17.25 inches wide, plus drywall makes 18.5 inches total width. The doorway soffit needed to be at least 1 inch shallower/higher to clear the doorway, but it couldn't be too much higher or it wouldn't enclose the duct for the left soffit. As we discussed, I could run the duct over the room, but that doesn't really help me since I need a soffit of some sort for power and video to the projector as well as a vent for the hush box. We pushed the doorway soffit as high as we could - 7 inch framing, 8.25 total finished depth/height. That leaves a three inch difference that we needed to bridge. The door itself will reach beyond the "vestibule" out into the greater part of the room when opened, so the transition was pushed out into the room. The arched section begins 4 inches out from the corner and bulges an additional 6 inches. That leaves 8.25 inches at the thinnest part of the deep soffit bottom. Even with the soffit pushed up over the door, there will be insufficient space for a whole door casing, so I'll have to do some surgery when I install the door - what else is new?



Here's a photo that should fairly closely match the perspective from the model image, showing the framing that will support the vestibule soffit. I'll build at least one layer of the soffit bottom in this area from plywood instead of drywall, so that the curve can be cut with precision. You can also see that I left out a small section to allow the duct to pass through.



I haven't yet worked out the details for the proscenium, so I terminated the side soffits about 2 feet from the front wall, trusting that the soffit would be invisible that far up the room. Here you can see the left side:



And this is the right side. As you can see, I've left pieces out. The goal here is to make the soffit as small as possible, so the empty span there is just large enough to fit the wall plenum I've built to pass by the drain pipes. The gap will be bridged by drywall only (2 layers 5/8").



Now it's time to finalize the wiring plan and get started on the riser!

Speaking of wiring, what about entrance lighting? I'm not sure if the 3" face of that curve will be enough to hold rope lighting. 7" should be enough for a can light or two, right? I've also thought about uplighting from the floor, but that's more expensive and the door will probably cast a weird shadow. Which way would you go? Whichever option needs to be grafik-eye-dimmable - I have a free zone on my GRX-3506.


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post #694 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 06:20 PM
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As far as lighting in the doorway, have you thought about building some columns on either side of the door and building in some transparent backlit panels like TMcG is planning in his build?

The 4" accent cans from Lowes are 4-1/2" deep. So a 7" soffit should be enough.

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post #695 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

As far as lighting in the doorway, have you thought about building some columns on either side of the door?
I don't think I see the backlit panels that TMcG is working on being right for my room, but I like where you're coming from here. I'll file this away. Maybe some recessed ropes running along the door case molding to wash the walls a little. I'll need to wire them in the same zone as the step lights I think.

I'm leaning more to a single accent can in the ceiling for entrance and exit scenes - thanks for the numbers.


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post #696 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 07:02 PM
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Hey Fred. Just catching up on your thread. Without reading too many pages of posts, was a suggestion made to simply hinge the door in the other direction so it swings out onto your landing?

If you don't want to hinge in the other direction, how about cutting down the door itself to get the 3" you need. I'm sure the people that would have the potential of hitting their head on a doorway 6'5"+ are used to ducking anyhow.....

As for lighting, I'd like to see your full plan before giving comment, but any exit scene will have more than enough light in the room to see through the exitway. But if you want light there from an aesthetic perspective, I like the single recessed can as you proposed. To trick it our even further, I would steer you toward a recessed slot trim kit for the light which will really narrow the beam bath and has a very crisp pinpoint effect to the beam propagation. Something like this: http://www.lightingdirect.com/wac-lighting-r-424-4-slot-trim-for-recessed-light/p1646492?source=gg-gba-pla_1646492____27796135649&s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!54303504089!g!!27796135649&gclid=COzgh5P6j7kCFQ6f4AodbzMAbw

Of course if you are going with a steam punk style, I'd say get an indoor fog machine to produce a fog "curtain" or waterfall as you pass through the door....smile.gif

And do my eyes deceive me, but is that one hell of a gap to bridge your layers of drywall without additional blocking or framing between? Seems like quite a distance to bridge....


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post #697 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, the door could swing out, but I'd prefer it didn't. The landing is only about three or so feet deep there, and the door would sweep people off it, I'm afraid. (maybe unfounded, but that's my primary reason.)

I thought about cutting the door down - to be honest I don't have a strong argument against it. It certainly would have been the simpler choice. If we hadn't come up with this design, which I think I really like, that was probably my next choice.

I like the idea of the trim kit - for $21 the copper bronze looks like a nice choice - I'll file that one away too. I'm going to need to make a list so that I can sit down with the wife and work some of these details out. Thanks for the link. smile.gif I also want to consider ways to highlight the curved shape. Rope light behind molding along the curve may be the best way to do that, but maybe some directional light from above the door aimed at the face of the curve would give a nice effect. There won't be much space for that, so I don't know what might be available.

And you are absolutely right that the gap is large. I feel relatively comfortable and confident that 2 layers of drywall will be string enough to bridge it without sagging. It's almost 4 feet (about 44 inches) - which is pretty huge - BUT! the ledger board on the wall does not have that same large gap (only 8-10 inches), so the bottom will be supported on that edge basically the whole length - which leaves the vertical face a little precarious, but with 10' drywall, I can center the gap along the board so that it's well supported on both ends.

Thanks for checking in - I know you've been busy at home with the young master McG - I'm looking forward to your further progress. smile.gif


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post #698 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 07:46 PM
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That curved section of soffit is begging for something interesting to go up there. Maybe a cool piece of steampunk metalwork. Here's an idea. Find some steampunkish bulbs, and build a fixture sort of like this. Obviously not an arrow, but you get the idea. Rather than vertical, maybe you could make them sticking out from the face of the curve.



This image says it uses a Sylvania 25T10 bulb.



With a steampunk design, the options are endless! In case I haven't mentioned it before, I'm crazy jealous of your theme!

EDIT: I got excited about the lights and forgot to mention the gap in the wall. If you're worried about the opening, you could always use a piece of MDF for the first layer across there. That would give you something to screw to. Not much mind you, but maybe better than nothing.

EDIT 2: Here's a link to some more bulbs to look at.

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post #699 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 07:54 PM
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To me, it's a no-brainer....I'd swing the door to the outside and forget about all the gyrations involved with the soffit. Nobody is going to be just hanging out on a 3x3 basement landing to be hit by the door. They'll either be in the theater or they won't be IMHO.

Regarding the drywall....it appears to me that you could easily have a continuous line of lumber there, especially on the ceiling at a minimum. Perhaps even a piece to bridge the bottom gap too and put in verticals where you can. Am I missing something in why you can't have any connecting 2x2 lumber there at a minimum?

Baby McG is being a PITA right now because he loves to fight sleep (ugh)....AND.....even worse, my impact driver was officially banned from use once the baby starts to go to bed which means installing all of my wall brackets by Friday just got a lot trickier.


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post #700 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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As I've been building it, the overall ceiling height is 105". The riser comes up 14" - so that's down to 91". Then the soffit is just over 11" so the distance from the riser to the soffit is 80" - 6'8". That's not crazy low or anything, but I hate giving up the headroom, especially when the width is a problem (which it is) speakers and lights need to be under there and I need every inch I can get.

I feel like this is a compromise that makes construction more challenging but results in the most pleasant space. I don't personally feel like it will lead to a space with inadequate strength and structure, but I understand the concern.


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post #701 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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I guess I was looking at the picture before that big piece of ductwork was in position. For the first layer across that gap I wouldn't use drywall, I'd use plywood to give it a bit of strength and sturdiness. You already have your soundproof shell and 5/8" ply is very close to the weight of 5/8" Type X.


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post #702 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess I was looking at the picture before that big piece of ductwork was in position.
I'm playing picture games with you a little - that ductwork is being magically held by my left hand, just out of the frame. wink.gif

I can get behind some plywood. I'll be buying some for the vestibule section anyway.


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post #703 of 1177 Old 08-21-2013, 08:35 PM
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I was thinking MDF on the vertical section to give you something to screw the bottom into. You'd be screwing into the edge, so I would think MDF would be a little better than plywood, but I may be wrong.

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post #704 of 1177 Old 08-22-2013, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't know what the correct answer is J_P_A, but I feel better about plywood. I'll make sure I'm screwing into framing anyway.


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post #705 of 1177 Old 08-22-2013, 05:50 AM
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I may have missed an important detail here. Will a standard height door open, and clear the "mini-soffit," or will you need to cut down the door?

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post #706 of 1177 Old 08-22-2013, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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It fits. With the door all the way open, it would bump against the corner of the wall, and be about an inch or two short of the arched face. The door will still need a stop in the hinge, but it will clear at the top. That's the reason for the 4" offset.


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post #707 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Today was definitely a good progress day. I'll have photos after I sweep up (that means we made plenty of saw dust smile.gif )

I also took some measurements and worked through my wiring plans to generate a shopping list. I'll post it here with a few comments - mostly for reference, but feedback is always encouraged. Each of these numbers has about 10% excess built into it.

Low Voltage

Speaker cable:
300ft 12G PVC jacketed in-wall rated
150ft 10G some in-wall, some not

10G for subs. 12G for all full-range channels. Includes pre-wire for extra side surrounds, but no pre-wire for heights or wides.

Network Cable:
250ft - if cat 6 is not much more money, I may spring for it. This is mostly for back-up uses and re-purposing for things I don't see coming. Four runs to the screen wall and two into the riser.

3.5mm Stereo Cable for IR at screen - 50ft
Should this be mono or stereo? Am I silly to think this would work over 50ft?

HDMI:
2x 20ft high speed cable to projector
1x 25ft high speed cable into riser (who knows why? It may never get used, but I might be very glad for it)

XLR:
3 50ft cables to the screen for 2 potential subwoofer signals (in the event I use built-in amplification in the future) plus one for a mic - both for acoustic measurements and for Karaoke
3 more cables into the riser for subs and mics - 2 at 25 ft and one at 14ft
Should I be building my own at this point?

Conduit:
One large (1.5 inch?) flexible conduit from the rack to behind the screen with a pull-cord or two in it.

I've left out any analog video capability. It seems kind of silly. Thoughts?

I've also worked up a plan for lighting and power outlets, but I'll post that separately later.


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post #708 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 03:51 PM
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I had a conversation with another member about wiring a few days ago, and he had a great suggestion. He's planning for four conductors to each surround location. You can use it for bi-wiring, or even parallel them for lower impedance. However, another thing that they may come in handy for is smoothing subs. Have you considered putting smoothing subs in your columns? For a smaller sealed sub, a 12 AWG would be plenty. I'm leaning towards a couple extra conductors at each surround JIK.

I'm glad you mentioned that 3.5 mm stereo cable, as I had completely forgotten about it.

Where are you planning to get your cables from? Monoprice seems to have great prices, but I don't think they carry a 10 AWG. Also, have you found a 1.5" smurf tube in your area? Most of the big box stores only carry 1/2" and 3/4". I'm planning for a 2" to my PJ, and probably another 2" from my rack into my soffit for all of my cables.

FWIW, I don't plan to run any analog video cables, either.

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post #709 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Since the soffits are framed, they're ready to be filled with ducts and wires. When I run the wires, I want to be able to see all the wire on site at the same time and cut/drill holes for all of it so that I can minimize the holes and keep everything organized. Since I don't have the strategic vision and patience to do all that on paper, I needed to have a riser built to run its wires at the same time. So today, I framed a riser. smile.gif

I started by confirming and committing to a design to get the height I needed. I'm sure several of you remember a conversation we had a few (several) months ago about how to get the final 14 inch height I needed to match the stairs. Well, during that whole conversation, I was assuming and posting that a 2x12 was 11.5 inches wide. That's not right. I should have measured one, obviously. In any case, it was pretty easy with pieces in hand to find a solution. It's a simple one, but will require another trip to the lumber yard or home improvement warehouse (probably Lowes). I'll need more 3/4 (23/32) tongue and groove subfloor so that I can use three layers to get the height I need. You may recall that outside the theater I'll be trying to match a 3/8 engineered hardwood floor, so the riser subfloor should actually be at 13 and 5/8"


If a layer or two of roofing felt makes this a little taller, no harm.

I built it like a deck you'd build in your back yard, but without the posts. 2x12 perimeter and 2x8 joists. The underside is one cavity.


I laid out the whole room design and it was within a couple inches of exactly 8ft riser depth, so that's what I built. With the exception of the entry area, the sheets of subfloor won't have to be cut. With such a short span, I didn't add any supports in the middle. Though, through the natural spacing of the joists, the two in the center - the longest which reach out to the doorway, are slightly closer together - about 12 inches.


I figure that the door threshold and automatic bottom should press against the in-room structure. So instead of building the riser itself out into the doorway, I just added some scraps.


I haven't added the step down to the front row yet. I need to choose a seat first, so I know how wide the step should be.


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post #710 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Where are you planning to get your cables from? Monoprice seems to have great prices, but I don't think they carry a 10 AWG. Also, have you found a 1.5" smurf tube in your area? Most of the big box stores only carry 1/2" and 3/4".
I already bought 100ft of 10AWG wire from Parts Express. I didn't realize Monoprice doesn't carry it - it seems you're right. That may mean I don't use in-wall rated - oh well. Honestly, I hadn't even though about comparison shopping - I was just going to go to monoprice.

I haven't search for any flexible conduit. I only need about 20 ft and could almost get away with PVC pipe, it's so straight. I may try to run pipe through there to see if it fits before I get too wild with a search for flex. I'd prefer the ease of PVC if it fits.

I may use that wire for subs ultimately, but I was hoping to upgrade one day to side arrays. I've pretty well ditched the idea of columns, since they will eat up so much width.


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post #711 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 04:30 PM
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Run a LOT more CAT5e or CAT6. It is most often sold in 1000ft boxes/spools anyway. Run a few to the projector and any other equipment locations (IP , IR, or RS-232 control, replacement or future proofing of HDMI using converters, etc). Category cable is the jack of most trades. It is super cheap in the grand scheme of things.


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post #712 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I should have thought about network cable at the projector. Even if I add two lengths, I've still only got about 300ft of cable. Buying premade cables at the lengths I need is half the cost of 1000ft box, and I don't have to terminate them or buy ends. I can still cut off the ends if I need to later.

I can't see too many other runs that make sense. I know doing it now without knowing why is the point of future-proofing, but I feel like I have it covered. (?) Four to the screen gets me one for remote control or control to a masking motor or light controller or something like that, plus one for each speaker channel if I were to get crazy and have speakers that need them. I guess I could add 2 more to the screen for 100ft total, but even then it's still less money and trouble to buy pre-made cables. Plus I'll have the conduit to the front. Where else would you want them?

I'm not trying to be argumentative - I just don't see it, I guess. Whatever rationale you have and locations you'd recommend, I'd love to hear them.


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post #713 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Low Voltage

Speaker cable:
300ft 12G PVC jacketed in-wall rated
150ft 10G some in-wall, some not

10G for subs. 12G for all full-range channels. Includes pre-wire for extra side surrounds, but no pre-wire for heights or wides.

If you go with 14/4 to everything but the subs, you could either biwire, internally "shotgun" biwire or simply combine the conductors to give you a net heavier gauge of wire @ 11 gauge. This not only gives you more wiring options, it is actually a heavier cable than the 12. Of course you could do the same thing with 12/4, but that's really overkill and much more expensive.

At each sub location I'd also run a single Cat-5 wire for triggering the subs on/off vs. letting the autosense do its thing. With autosense, sometimes the sub will shut off during extended quiet passages only to come on a couple seconds after the next big action scene.
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Network Cable:
250ft - if cat 6 is not much more money, I may spring for it. This is mostly for back-up uses and re-purposing for things I don't see coming. Four runs to the screen wall and two into the riser.

Four to the front seems like a lot, but I guess if you are triggering two subs on/off, incorporating a motorized masking system and perhaps an IR targeting device then that seems reasonable. As I don't know your full system plans, I can't give you a definitive recommendation.
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3.5mm Stereo Cable for IR at screen - 50ft
Should this be mono or stereo? Am I silly to think this would work over 50ft?

I would use a Cat-5 and then just take a mono trigger cable and splice to the cat5 to the same pair on both ends, keeping your wiring consistent. All IR uses Mono as it is only + and -.
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

HDMI:
2x 20ft high speed cable to projector
1x 25ft high speed cable into riser (who knows why? It may never get used, but I might be very glad for it)

Why two to the projector? You will only ever need one since you are switching HDMI through the preamp. The second HDMI is a waste of money. I wouldn't run HDMI to the riser, just a 2" conduit. The only reason to install and HDMI is a "quick connect" for a gaming system, digital camera, etc. If that is something that appeals to you, then run it. If not, just rest easy knowing the conduit is there.

For your projector I would also run two SHIELDED Cat-SIX wires for a HDMI over baluns system. You are fortunate to have a short run length from preamp to the projector, so these aren't as important, but running two will give you the ultimate in flexibility for either one or two wire HDMI extenders. Also run two other cat wires to the projector - one for network and one for control. I would even suggest running a cat-5 from the projector to the front screen location for any potential future masking system that would be controlled by the projector.
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XLR:
3 50ft cables to the screen for 2 potential subwoofer signals (in the event I use built-in amplification in the future) plus one for a mic - both for acoustic measurements and for Karaoke
3 more cables into the riser for subs and mics - 2 at 25 ft and one at 14ft
Should I be building my own at this point?

The XLR connectors are huge vs. the size of the wire, so if that's a concern then just buy the bulk wire and do the soldering - it's very easy. If it's not a concern, then just get the pre-made ones in the run length you need without all the extra. A little extra, just not a lot.
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Conduit:
One large (1.5 inch?) flexible conduit from the rack to behind the screen with a pull-cord or two in it.

1.5" will work, but I'd pull 2" if I were you as it is MUCH easier to work with. Also pull a 2" to the riser and one to your projector. I'm personally not a huge conduit-pulling guy, but I think the riser and projector areas are the higher priority spots over the front screen wall.
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I've left out any analog video capability. It seems kind of silly. Thoughts?
Analog is dead, so no worries! smile.gif

"Another Member" tongue.gif



EDIT - I see that during the 45+ distracted minutes it took me to write this post there have been other interim posts, so some of the above is repetitive at this point, but let me know your thoughts.


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post #714 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I should have thought about network cable at the projector. Even if I add two lengths, I've still only got about 300ft of cable. Buying premade cables at the lengths I need is half the cost of 1000ft box, and I don't have to terminate them or buy ends. I can still cut off the ends if I need to later.

I can't see too many other runs that make sense. I know doing it now without knowing why is the point of future-proofing, but I feel like I have it covered. (?) Four to the screen gets me one for remote control or control to a masking motor or light controller or something like that, plus one for each speaker channel if I were to get crazy and have speakers that need them. I guess I could add 2 more to the screen for 100ft total, but even then it's still less money and trouble to buy pre-made cables. Plus I'll have the conduit to the front. Where else would you want them?

I'm not trying to be argumentative - I just don't see it, I guess. Whatever rationale you have and locations you'd recommend, I'd love to hear them.
Ah, prebuilt Category cable- I hadn't even considered that. I guess that's not a terrible idea if you don't have crimpers or don't want to field terminate. I'd honestly never even looked at the pricing of anything longer than normal patch cords.

I did 4 to the projector - 2 for an A/V extender, 1 for control, 1 for ???

Also cable to the door entrance might be good for lighting control or door automation.

Non-Cat6 related: do you need any thermostat or other HVAC wiring?


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post #715 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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TMcG - thanks for the comprehensive analysis. I think there are several ideas here that I will use.
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If you go with 14/4 to everything but the subs, you could either biwire, internally "shotgun" biwire or simply combine the conductors to give you a net heavier gauge of wire @ 11 gauge. This not only gives you more wiring options, it is actually a heavier cable than the 12.
Combining the conductors of 14/4 sounds like a great choice - also one of the things J_P_A suggested (thanks). A few days ago, I couldn't find the link to the wire table I like, and I found someone else's recommendations. It seemed like I was on the edge for needing 12AWG for the LCR, so I figured I would just use it everywhere. But 14/4 everywhere gives me better than 12 for LCR, and the option to have that at the surrounds, or split it out for extra loudspeakers and still have adequate gauge. Seems like a win-win, and I think will only come to $30-$40 more. Though, I could probably do the same with 16/4 all around and still not run into problems, assuming I stick with easily driven speakers. I like the headroom and flexibility.
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At each sub location I'd also run a single Cat-5 wire for triggering the subs on/off vs. letting the autosense do its thing.
This is one of those uses I had not considered. It's a good idea, but I'm not sure I would want to fool with it. It's moot in a way, since I'm going for rack mounted amps at this point, but the flexibility is the point. I'll have to think about this one. The low cost of another 40-50 ft of network cable make it seem silly to skip.
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I would use a Cat-5 and then just take a mono trigger cable and splice to the cat5 to the same pair on both ends, keeping your wiring consistent. All IR uses Mono as it is only + and -.
Here's another one of those uses I hasn't considered. This one's a keeper as well.
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Why two to the projector? You will only ever need one since you are switching HDMI through the preamp. The second HDMI is a waste of money. I wouldn't run HDMI to the riser, just a 2" conduit. The only reason to install and HDMI is a "quick connect" for a gaming system, digital camera, etc. If that is something that appeals to you, then run it. If not, just rest easy knowing the conduit is there.

For your projector I would also run two SHIELDED Cat-SIX wires for a HDMI over baluns system. You are fortunate to have a short run length from preamp to the projector, so these aren't as important, but running two will give you the ultimate in flexibility for either one or two wire HDMI extenders. Also run two other cat wires to the projector - one for network and one for control. I would even suggest running a cat-5 from the projector to the front screen location for any potential future masking system that would be controlled by the projector.
The two HDMI to the projector is sort of in place of conduit. If I break a connector or something, a back-up is already in place. The other thing on my mind is the possibility of a two-cable solution for 4K. I don't know if that's reasonable, but it's one of those you-never-know sort of moves, to me. So, to me it looks like for two HDMI and two cat cables, I get the same as 1 HDMI, 2 cat 6, 2 cat5e, and a conduit - only difference is the ultimate flexibility of the conduit. I'll have to think this over as well - or if you have a counter-argument or I've missed the point, please let me know.

At the seats, I think it's very likely that I'll find myself in there with friends and a laptop and want to put video or internet on the screen from there.
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...just buy the bulk wire and do the soldering - it's very easy.
I think I'll roll my own here. Since the line level connection is back-up in the first place, I think I'll just leave them unterminated at the sub locations and at jacks for mics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

1.5" will work, but I'd pull 2" if I were you as it is MUCH easier to work with. Also pull a 2" to the riser and one to your projector. I'm personally not a huge conduit-pulling guy, but I think the riser and projector areas are the higher priority spots over the front screen wall.
Like I told J_P_A, I hope I can fit PVC pipes in, which I think would be the easiest to work with if I need them in the future. Having them at the riser and projector makes sense, but I'm not sure I'm convinced. I'll think about that one as well.

Thanks again for taking the time and shedding the light. smile.gif


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post #716 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah, prebuilt Category cable- I hadn't even considered that. I guess that's not a terrible idea if you don't have crimpers or don't want to field terminate. I'd honestly never even looked at the pricing of anything longer than normal patch cords.

I did 4 to the projector - 2 for an A/V extender, 1 for control, 1 for ???

Also cable to the door entrance might be good for lighting control or door automation.

Non-Cat6 related: do you need any thermostat or other HVAC wiring?
Thanks for the details. What do you accomplish via the control cable to the projector? What other hardware or setup is required? I can see using one for firmware updates or something, and I understand accessing a 12v trigger - is that all there is?

The only other low-voltage cable I'll need is at the door - thanks for mentioning it - Grafik Eye control wire - just a few feet to run form the GE in the equipment closet to the small wall station (that I still have to source).


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post #717 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

The two HDMI to the projector is sort of in place of conduit. If I break a connector or something, a back-up is already in place. The other thing on my mind is the possibility of a two-cable solution for 4K. I don't know if that's reasonable, but it's one of those you-never-know sort of moves, to me. So, to me it looks like for two HDMI and two cat cables, I get the same as 1 HDMI, 2 cat 6, 2 cat5e, and a conduit - only difference is the ultimate flexibility of the conduit. I'll have to think this over as well - or if you have a counter-argument or I've missed the point, please let me know.

Seriously, you don't need the second HDMI. 4K will run on a single HDMI wire - guaranteed. The two shielded Cat6 wires give you the absolute maximum flexibility for going with a Baluns system for 4K and anything else that could possibly come down the pipe. A second HDMI wire using today's transfer rates will NOT yield the same flexibility as two shielded Cat-6 wires over a Baluns system, which is essentially unlimited flexibility.

With the other two Cat-x wires, one will be used for network (projector updates and possibly IP control if the projector has it) and a dedicated control wire (RS-232, IR over Cat-5).


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post #718 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Seriously, you don't need the second HDMI. 4K will run on a single HDMI wire - guaranteed.
You drive a hard bargain sir - I like that. wink.gif You may have me convinced.


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post #719 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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You drive a hard bargain sir - I like that. wink.gif You may have me convinced.

Just tryin' to save you a few extra bucks....more money for some Cap'n!!


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post #720 of 1177 Old 08-25-2013, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I knew I should have said that I liked the cut of your jib!


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