The Once and Future Theater - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 1177 Old 10-14-2013, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Lots of fun with lots of sand! So far it's been uneventful - no injuries, no spills. But I am starting to feel it - I picked up half a case of motor oil a few minutes ago and realized I've been getting a work out. My back has become "aware" of the exertion. I'm a little glad I don't have a truck, so I don't do too much at once.
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post #902 of 1177 Old 10-17-2013, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Distraction: I don't know anything about interconnects. I've tried to search, but I keep coming up short. There are youtube videos, but something is always goofy about them. For instance, monoprice's video about building interconnects specifies a cable by part number, and that part number is for speaker wire, not a coaxial cable (rg-59?) as described and shown in the video.

I (two plus years ago) bought the AVR I will use as a processor because it has pre-amp outputs. Pioneer VSX-1120-K. It was obvious to me from looking at it and other AVRs that common stereo analog cables with RCA/phono connectors would carry the signal out to the new amp I bought - Sherbourn PA 7-150. The inputs for the amp are selectable - both balanced an unbalanced are available. I know that the output of the AVR is unbalanced, but I understand that a cable can easily be built to connect balanced to unbalanced. The balanced input on the amp uses an XLR connection. The unbalanced uses an RCA jack, but only one per channel. All that is pretty standard, I'm sure.

The question is, what raw cable (inexpensive) should I use to build the interconnects, and should I bother adapting to XLR so as to use those inputs on the amp?

My understanding is that in a balanced connection neutral is separate from ground, while those are simply combined to make an unbalanced connection - so if one end is unbalanced, there is probably (definitely?) no advantage to a balanced cable and connection.

Follow-up question: is a soldered end actually superior to a crimped or screw-on connection? What RCA/phono end would you use?
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post #903 of 1177 Old 10-17-2013, 09:46 PM
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RG-59 is a very good choice. So is CT/CX/CF 100. Myself I generally solder, but I wouldn't go so far as to claim it would be superior to crimping. Good crimping might in some cases be superior to some solders. Screws may come undone, I'd put that down as the worst alternative of the three.

If you want "feelgood" on your cables, then a nice stocking and WBT would look nice. Functionally most anything would do if you avoid the absolute cheapest ones (have seen gold plated plastic ones on cheap cables!).

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post #904 of 1177 Old 11-01-2013, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Distraction: I don't know anything about interconnects. I've tried to search, but I keep coming up short. There are youtube videos, but something is always goofy about them. For instance, monoprice's video about building interconnects specifies a cable by part number, and that part number is for speaker wire, not a coaxial cable (rg-59?) as described and shown in the video.

I (two plus years ago) bought the AVR I will use as a processor because it has pre-amp outputs. Pioneer VSX-1120-K. It was obvious to me from looking at it and other AVRs that common stereo analog cables with RCA/phono connectors would carry the signal out to the new amp I bought - Sherbourn PA 7-150. The inputs for the amp are selectable - both balanced an unbalanced are available. I know that the output of the AVR is unbalanced, but I understand that a cable can easily be built to connect balanced to unbalanced. The balanced input on the amp uses an XLR connection. The unbalanced uses an RCA jack, but only one per channel. All that is pretty standard, I'm sure.

The question is, what raw cable (inexpensive) should I use to build the interconnects, and should I bother adapting to XLR so as to use those inputs on the amp?

My understanding is that in a balanced connection neutral is separate from ground, while those are simply combined to make an unbalanced connection - so if one end is unbalanced, there is probably (definitely?) no advantage to a balanced cable and connection.

Follow-up question: is a soldered end actually superior to a crimped or screw-on connection? What RCA/phono end would you use?

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post #905 of 1177 Old 11-01-2013, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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You mean I didn't reply?! Sorry - I certainly meant to.
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post #906 of 1177 Old 11-03-2013, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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It isn't just my response to TMcG's PM that has been neglected - this thread and my build have taken a vacation for the last two weeks. But I think I'm back now.

Here's what 18.5 cuft of sand looks like - 37 bags.


You can't see in the picture, but the joist bowed out by probably close to an inch - I haven't measured.
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post #907 of 1177 Old 11-03-2013, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

It isn't just my response to TMcG's PM that has been neglected - this thread and my build has taken a vacation for the last two weeks. But I think I'm back now.

Here's what 18.5 cuft of sand looks like - 37 bags.


You can't see in the picture, but the joist bowed out by probably close to an inch - I haven't measured.

That looks vaguely familiar! smile.gif

On subject of bow........that is why I doubled up all rim joists........the infamous bow!! biggrin.gif
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post #908 of 1177 Old 11-10-2013, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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post #909 of 1177 Old 11-10-2013, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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post #910 of 1177 Old 11-11-2013, 02:52 PM
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Yep - Looks like a 3 yr build to me (I should know) smile.gif

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Check out a video of my theater here
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post #911 of 1177 Old 11-11-2013, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah... I have been following the news for the new models of projectors lately. I should get over that kind of self-flagellation.
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post #912 of 1177 Old 11-11-2013, 05:09 PM
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Yeah... I have been following the news for the new models of projectors lately. I should get over that kind of self-flagellation.

Yes, don't be tempted... you'll hook it up (like me) and then things really slow down... smile.gif Just a joke, of course, I know you're well aware of this curse.

Happy Two Year anniversary!
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post #913 of 1177 Old 11-12-2013, 06:44 AM
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post #914 of 1177 Old 11-13-2013, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Inspired by cowger's woodworking, I turned back to my subwoofers today - in addition to filling the last of the riser with sand (somehow I think one side of the riser needed 5 fewer bags of sand, but whatever - I probably lost count.)

You probably learned in high school geometry that man-hole covers are round because you can't fit a disc through a round hole when the disc has a larger radius than the hole. Through my own hastiness a few months ago, I can demonstrate that for you today. Normally, a subwoofer should not fit inside a cabinet, through the same reasoning as the man-hole cover. However:



So I set out to cut a new baffle to use to mend the one glued into my cabinet. Having learned how to properly secure everything so that the hole gets cut smoothly with the router, I built a "custom" base to work on. I gives me a place to screw the central scrap down as well as the outside part of the baffle I want to keep, all while getting the baffle up off the table so that the router bit has space to pass clear.



Then I had to pre-cut the baffle to the right size, mark the center and prepare the pivot point for my home-made jasper jig. I also had drill a hole for the router bit to start in, because I don't have a plunge base for it (or bits for that matter).



Magically, it worked!



That still leaves me with the job of fitting a square peg through a round hole.



You can see (above) that I had to cut off the corner of the new baffle to fit it around the corner brace/cleat, but I also had to cut out one of the braces. It took out my reciprocating saw blade. You can see the stub of the brace still tying the side-to-side brace to the back of the cabinet. I guess I'll need to add more bracing - open to thoughts.

So far, so good, but this leads me to my current situation and question. How small of a spot would you tolerate when finding a home for a screw to secure this new baffle to the inside of the old one? At the sides, there's exactly half an inch of space between the original (wrong) cutout and the inside wall of the cabinet.




I have a counter-sinking bit, and have been using drywall screws, but I think I'll upgrade to some proper wood screws with smooth shanks if I can find some of the right proportions. Thinking about it, I probably can't - there's nearly an inch and a half of baffle to screw through into the new 3/4" baffle on the inside.
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post #915 of 1177 Old 11-13-2013, 05:03 PM
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I don't think you would have any problem at all if you pre-drilled the holes before gluing the piece in position, but I'm not sure. Maybe test it on a piece of scrap?
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post #916 of 1177 Old 11-14-2013, 07:22 AM
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I don't think you would have any problem at all if you pre-drilled the holes before gluing the piece in position, but I'm not sure. Maybe test it on a piece of scrap?

Yup, agreed. Maybe just use a few more smaller (#8 ?) screws spaced a bit closer. Should be fine. Are you screwing in from the inside? Maybe you could also angle them slightly outward to reach a bit more meat. Should be fine.

Nice work on the repair!! smile.gif
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post #917 of 1177 Old 11-14-2013, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

I'll go look for some smaller screws. I hadn't considered trying to screw from the inside, but I don't think it would be possible - at least not with any tools I have: the cabinet is less than a foot deep on the outside, so there's only ten inches or so of internal space.
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post #918 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 07:28 AM
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Thanks guys.

I'll go look for some smaller screws. I hadn't considered trying to screw from the inside, but I don't think it would be possible - at least not with any tools I have: the cabinet is less than a foot deep on the outside, so there's only ten inches or so of internal space.

Maybe something like this would work:

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Drive-90-13020703/202241668/

I don't think this is meant for very heavy duty service, but for just drilling some pilot holes and setting some screws, it should be okay.

That being said, I guess screwing from the outside is just as good since you'll need to repaint regardless.

I bet you can't wait to take these for a test drive! smile.gif
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post #919 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 07:29 AM
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Another option may be "T" Nuts.. then you could use 2 1/2" round head machine screws to fasten the new baffle, it may even look cool particularly if you align them with the flange on the driver....

40235247-d3a7-4132-8e8e-b15cc8dacbb1.jpg

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post #920 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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You guys have me thinking. While the 90 degree drill attachment would be a cool addition to the tool box, like you said - I'm going to be doing more finish work anyway.

The idea of using fasteners as a decorative design element is a new idea for me that I should have considered. I've been trying to find ways to spruce up the look to help reinforce the steam punk elements, and this might be the ticket. I'm not sold on t-nuts in general, but since the driver won't be installed when they go in, I have more options.

Maybe some carriage bolts? Is there a good way to make a square recess for carriage bolt heads?
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post #921 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Maybe some carriage bolts? Is there a good way to make a square recess for carriage bolt heads?
A mortising jig looks like more than I want to get into - maybe I can find a small enough chisel.
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post #922 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 06:44 PM
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Can you get a small file in there? You should be able to approximate a square hole close enough and fairly quickly...
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post #923 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 07:20 PM
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If you are going to leave the bolts showing (which is a cool idea, BTW), I'd probably go with an Allen head bolt, and not recess it. You might as well show it off!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #924 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Can you get a small file in there? You should be able to approximate a square hole close enough and fairly quickly...
How would I use a file?

I was thinking I'd drill a hole, and then square off the top portion with a chisel. 1/4" drill bit (round), followed by 1/4" chisel (square), to make space for a 1/4" (square) on the underside of the head of the carriage bolt.

I also thought I might glue in some carriage bolts through from the back of the new baffle, then use acorn nuts on the front - if I can find what I like (not chrome) - or maybe I'll just paint them black.
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post #925 of 1177 Old 11-15-2013, 08:34 PM
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My suggestion on the file was to square off four sides of the top of the hole, one side at a time. A small, flat, 1/4" wide file with a bit of a tapered end would be ideal. Granted it's not a perfect solution but I think this should all be hidden. If you create a bit of a tapered square hole (if that makes sense), the carriage bolt will find its way in there okay.

I'm not looking at a carriage bolt right now, but I think that the square portion of them is a bit tapered, too. And the wood will compress a bit, as needed.

A chisel could work, though in my experience, chiseling through plywood isn't easy or pretty.

Hope something works out for you! Several good ideas already in this thread on how to make this look pretty cool...
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post #926 of 1177 Old 11-17-2013, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I didn't take a lot of in-progress pictures today, but I got some things done. First, in reference to cowger's post above: I went with a 1/4" chisel to make a small square for the carriage bolt to sit in, and it was superfluous. THe square on the carriage bolts are the same size as the shank, so it's only the corners that sit down into the wood. They are slightly tapered, and they work in fine, even when no allowance has been made for them. In fact, I won't be using the chisel for the second sub repair, as it seems the bolts sit more securely when they make their own indentation. I was concerned that the wood would pucker or split or something, but that's no happening. The carriage bolt holes I used on the face of the cabinet were prepped, but the reverse mounted bolts for the driver mounting were not, and the results were preferable without.

Thanks to KNKKNK for the suggested layout of fasteners - I didn't see a better choice, and this seems good.

Anyway, on to the pictures!

Here's a close up of the finished work. You can see that I went back and flush trimmed the double baffle that didn't line up perfectly from initial assembly (see the detail picture from a few days ago showing the 1/2" space for screws for comparison). Then I sanded a little by hand (100 grit, would have preferred coarser). Then I eased the edged with a 1/4" roundover. Obviously the outside carriage bolts are holding the new baffle - they have washers and nuts on the inside of the cabinet (everything is 1/4" 20TPI). The acorn nuts on the driver are holding shorter carriage bolts, drawn into the new baffle from the back while the driver wasn't there, and set with a drop of wood glue. Pardon the messy image and piece.


I'm overall very happy with how these are coming out. Clearly I have a lot of finishing work to do, both to get them back to where they were in terms of quality before I had to resume work on them, as well as to improve the finish uniformity and then seal them. Notice how they are a very convenient height for people to stand and touch - maybe with food or drink on them - so I want to make sure they look and feel like furniture. I think I'll probably paint the bolt heads and nuts, but maybe not.
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post #927 of 1177 Old 11-17-2013, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
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If you are going to leave the bolts showing (which is a cool idea, BTW), I'd probably go with an Allen head bolt, and not recess it. You might as well show it off!

+1
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post #928 of 1177 Old 11-18-2013, 02:37 PM
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Awesome progress!! The fact that you recessed the drivers can now be considered a feature... smile.gif

If you like the look of the raised lettering on the carriage bolts, awesome. If not, I've had luck before sanding them smooth on an upturned belt sander. Grinding or filing them smooth should also work... All this assumes that you're going to paint their heads...
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post #929 of 1177 Old 11-18-2013, 02:45 PM
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Awesome progress!! The fact that you recessed the drivers can now be considered a feature... smile.gif
........

QFT

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The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #930 of 1177 Old 11-20-2013, 01:04 PM
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Schweet.. Everything looks good..

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