Inspired by cowger's woodworking, I turned back to my subwoofers today - in addition to filling the last of the riser with sand (somehow I think one side of the riser needed 5 fewer bags of sand, but whatever - I probably lost count.)
You probably learned in high school geometry that man-hole covers are round because you can't fit a disc through a round hole when the disc has a larger radius than the hole. Through my own hastiness a few months ago, I can demonstrate that for you today. Normally, a subwoofer should not fit inside a cabinet, through the same reasoning as the man-hole cover. However:
So I set out to cut a new baffle to use to mend the one glued into my cabinet. Having learned how to properly secure everything so that the hole gets cut smoothly with the router, I built a "custom" base to work on. I gives me a place to screw the central scrap down as well as the outside part of the baffle I want to keep, all while getting the baffle up off the table so that the router bit has space to pass clear.
Then I had to pre-cut the baffle to the right size, mark the center and prepare the pivot point for my home-made jasper jig. I also had drill a hole for the router bit to start in, because I don't have a plunge base for it (or bits for that matter).
Magically, it worked!
That still leaves me with the job of fitting a square peg through a round hole.
You can see (above) that I had to cut off the corner of the new baffle to fit it around the corner brace/cleat, but I also had to cut out one of the braces. It took out my reciprocating saw blade. You can see the stub of the brace still tying the side-to-side brace to the back of the cabinet. I guess I'll need to add more bracing - open to thoughts.
So far, so good, but this leads me to my current situation and question. How small of a spot would you tolerate when finding a home for a screw to secure this new baffle to the inside of the old one? At the sides, there's exactly half an inch of space between the original (wrong) cutout and the inside wall of the cabinet.
I have a counter-sinking bit, and have been using drywall screws, but I think I'll upgrade to some proper wood screws with smooth shanks if I can find some of the right proportions. Thinking about it, I probably can't - there's nearly an inch and a half of baffle to screw through into the new 3/4" baffle on the inside.