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post #1051 of 1179 Old 04-07-2014, 06:44 PM
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What are the dimensions of the top and bottom pieces.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!


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post #1052 of 1179 Old 04-07-2014, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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The baffle is 12" square.

I've decided on a nominal 8" depth, but I want that to be the depth to the outside surface of the back panel. The actual sides should continue past that for an additional inch. So, based on the way I've been talking about it, I want to change the depth from my spreadsheet from 7.5" to 8", but the actual depth from the wall will be 9" This gives me 1" of recessed gap in the back to use a french cleat and totally hide the wiring.



The spreadsheet indicates that the 17" back panel gives the right volume. But, that of course is the length of the edge 8" behind the face of the front baffle... in final construction it will be larger, so that it conceals the recessed terminals and cleat. I included the column "panel width" to give me an idea how much wider the angled panels would be, but that's again, not including the extra width to reach the wall - so that's just for estimating materials...

I went and tried again. I was quicker this time, but didn't have better results. I used the 32 degree angle (that's measured from the plane of the baffle to the plane of one of the angled panels - Edit: no, that's wrong, it's the compliment of this angle - I think...). I put that measurement into the calculator here, and came up with a compound miter blade tilt of 36.8 and a miter angle of 27.9, but I messed it up when I went to build it. I got distracted by concerns of my limited stock, and tried to change the cut sequence so as to get two pieces out of one large piece instead of wasting it.

Anyway, I think I can get it next time, but it might be Wednesday before I can try again.


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post #1053 of 1179 Old 04-08-2014, 07:31 AM
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Looks good, Fred. I'm with everyone else that you'll nail this (figuratively speaking)! smile.gif
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post #1054 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

At 120v it actually dissipates 12.5w. It will handle a surge up to 240v.

Yes, it's dimmable; the wattage dissipated will vary based on the voltage the GE gives it. This is similar to the way an incandescent bulb works.

I would use a 4x4x1.75" metal box, and would mount the resistor to the box. I think you would benefit from the heatsinking when the resistor is coupled to the box.

Tim

Has anyone done this? In my room I have full access above it. If I pull the wire from one of my cans and add this resistor inside of a metal box with a cover but mount it to a joist that is filled with fiberglass batts should I have an issue? I just worry about it getting too hot as it is essentially in my attic and I wouldn't know if it got too hot until it started a fire.

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post #1055 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Has anyone done this? In my room I have full access above it. If I pull the wire from one of my cans and add this resistor inside of a metal box with a cover but mount it to a joist that is filled with fiberglass batts should I have an issue? I just worry about it getting too hot as it is essentially in my attic and I wouldn't know if it got too hot until it started a fire.

You never want any "open air" electrical connections, which is that this would be if you just mounted it to the studding. Put it inside a standard metal octagon box as code requires. And technically speaking you will need to have access to this junction box for both code and serviceability reasons, in case the resistor ever poops out on you.
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post #1056 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 01:11 PM
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Thanks. I wasn't saying I would leave it open. I have full access above the room. What I was getting at is am I ok just merely pulling the wire into a metal box, attaching the resistor, and putting a metal cover on it? Also, any issue with putting one on two different zones?

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post #1057 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Thanks. I wasn't saying I would leave it open. I have full access above the room. What I was getting at is am I ok just merely pulling the wire into a metal box, attaching the resistor, and putting a metal cover on it? Also, any issue with putting one on two different zones?

I don't want to jack Fred's thread, but to answer the above....Yes, attach the wire in-line to the resistor inside the box. Do not put two different zones through the same resistor, use a different resistor for each zone.
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post #1058 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I don't want to jack Fred's thread, but to answer the above....Yes, attach the wire in-line to the resistor inside the box. Do not put two different zones through the same resistor, use a different resistor for each zone.


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post #1059 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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No worries on the threadjack. It's relevant, and referenced here, so may as well follow up here. Of course, now wraunch has to remember where he got the answer to that question he forgot about... smile.gif

I've spent most of today trying to work out the geometry of that silly cabinet. I've done a number of things to reconsider my reckoning, every time coming up with different miter and bevel angles. Of course, none of them have been right. I reconfigured my spreadsheet to work with real internal dimensions and set a new recalculated target volume. Then I went back to sketchup (for the third fresh start...) I *think* I've finally come up with a good set of numbers, but this set is awkward (as though the whole thing isn't awkward).

Maybe @cowger or @TMcG or anyone else has some experience here that's relevant. I need to cut a miter and bevel at the same time, but the bevel has come out more than 45 degrees. (49.6) Since the bevel on my saw only goes to 45, I understand how to use a vertical jig and the complement of the angle (90 minus 49.6 yields 40.4) to get the cut, but I can't get the miter angle at the same time - the table itself will be in the way, right?

I suppose I could cut the miter first, maybe at 45 degrees to get close, then run the blade way up into the air and set up the jig for the bevel with enough space for the scrap to fit between the blade and the table surface. That's the same basic procedure I've been using for the notched corner that supports the baffle - it just feels like a kludge. That will make two out of four edges to these panels that would have to be cut this way - luckily they are not opposite one another, or I would never be able to get the final dimensions right. I can just leave the other two edges long and come back to trim them once the troublesome edges are cut - of course, it's hard to test fit a panel when it's not cut to the same dimensions as its neighbors...


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post #1060 of 1179 Old 04-09-2014, 10:27 PM
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I would love to help, but I'm having trouble picturing the piece(s) you're trying to make. Can you share a picture from Sketchup (or maybe send me your model)? I'll PM you with my e-mail...


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post #1061 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 01:30 AM
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When I built my coffered ceiling, there was one inside angle where I had that exact same situation. The solution was building a custom jig with back fence that at the exact proper angle. This jig sat flat against the real fence for my chop saw, so alignment would be perfect. Use a piece of plywood for the base and a 4 or 5 inch tall piece of plywood for the fence at the proper angle.

I am certainly no expert when it comes to advanced woodworking, but that's how I tackled it for my family room ceiling project.
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post #1062 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 05:23 AM
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You can buy Jigs that hold crown at the proper angle. I use this system: http://cutncrown.com/products-page/additional-accessories/52-degree-spring-angle-crown-molding-jig/

I have a bag of the jigs and pull out the one that matches the spring angle. You can buy just one. Watch the video, that guy goes to the woodworking shows and sells his kits.

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post #1063 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 08:10 AM
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Heres a snapshot of a spreadsheet for compound miters. You should be able to extrapolate the info for your box from it.. Think of your front angle as just one of the polygon angles from the 4 sided example (flat miter 45) .. 45 deg bev at the 32deg (if I understand your example) from vertical ... shows a miter of 27.92 and a tilt of 36.85.



The spreadsheet came from http://woodgears.ca/miter/

He also has a youtube video showing the polygon being made that helps get your mind around it using both a miter and table saw.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CRJsn_pQ7Q

Dunno maybe it'll help, but if that doesn't work there's always this..

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post #1064 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for that! That combination of angles sounds familiar, but I'll try them (again?) That's definitely a good resource!
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post #1065 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I wish I could say that I knocked out that cut, Brad, but I can't. I was setting up to make another attempt at a mock up, when I started to question a few of the tolerances in my equipment and its setup. So I went about building a new ...miter gauge? ...only with a fixed edge to push through pieces, like a sled. That too much longer than I had anticipated, but I think it's the squarest thing at my disposal at this point, next to the framing square I used to build it. Then I used to it (not the fence, which I was dubious about) to cut a square. When that started to come out weird, I realized the blade wasn't exactly aligned with the table, so I tried to move that. I got it closer, but I still can't cut a square.

Probably none of this would prove to be a large enough problem to prevent me from verifying that the numbers from the table are right, but I want the end result to be RIGHT, so I need to back up and get my $hit straight... you know?


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post #1066 of 1179 Old 04-10-2014, 08:14 PM
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Zeroing in on the problem, clearly... At least you now know what (at least some of) the issue is and, once solved, things will be much more bueno!


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post #1067 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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It's been more than a month since I bumped this slow-motion build thread. I'm bumping it now for a detour, unfortunately - not progress.

I had a problem come up with my PC the other day. I tried to fix it, and it seems I made it worse. I considered sending a PM to @Mfusick but I don't want to distract him from the twins (congratulations on that, by the way! smile.gif ).

Tuesday night I left the computer downloading something, and awoke Wednesday to find that it had rebooted after finishing the download. The downloaded file was fine and from a trusted source, but somehow it seems the registry got messed up. When windows 7 rebooted, most everything that's normally running in the background, like the google updater and about a dozen other programs, failed to launch and errors messages were strung across the screen. Most of the software I use (like chrome and i.e.) wouldn't launch either: windows didn't know what to do with the .exe files - at least that's the way I remember understanding the error messages. Even system restore wouldn't run.

Long story short (too late!), I tried to recover windows, but that failed. I was able to copy personal files off of C: before I tried, so that's all still around at this point, but windows isn't right... I reinstalled a um... borrowed... version of windows, but it doesn't work right with my hardware. For instance, I can only connect to unsecured wireless networks, and the aspect ratio and resolution of the monitor are all wrong.

My PC has been bothering me since I bought it to create a backup disc, but I never did... Of course. But the partition with the backup is still intact. So the question is, (finally!) how can I get at that partition and make a proper Gateway factory backup disc and reinstall from it?

I don't expect any of you to hold my hand through this, but if you can point me to a how-to, or get me moving in the right direction I surely would appreciate it. smile.gif
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post #1068 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

It's been more than a month since I bumped this slow-motion build thread. I'm bumping it now for a detour, unfortunately - not progress.

I had a problem come up with my PC the other day. I tried to fix it, and it seems I made it worse. I considered sending a PM to @Mfusick but I don't want to distract him from the twins (congratulations on that, by the way! smile.gif ).

Tuesday night I left the computer downloading something, and awoke Wednesday to find that it had rebooted after finishing the download. The downloaded file was fine and from a trusted source, but somehow it seems the registry got messed up. When windows 7 rebooted, most everything that's normally running in the background, like the google updater and about a dozen other programs, failed to launch and errors messages were strung across the screen. Most of the software I use (like chrome and i.e.) wouldn't launch either: windows didn't know what to do with the .exe files - at least that's the way I remember understanding the error messages. Even system restore wouldn't run.

Long story short (too late!), I tried to recover windows, but that failed. I was able to copy personal files off of C: before I tried, so that's all still around at this point, but windows isn't right... I reinstalled a um... borrowed... version of windows, but it doesn't work right with my hardware. For instance, I can only connect to unsecured wireless networks, and the aspect ratio and resolution of the monitor are all wrong.

My PC has been bothering me since I bought it to create a backup disc, but I never did... Of course. But the partition with the backup is still intact. So the question is, (finally!) how can I get at that partition and make a proper Gateway factory backup disc and reinstall from it?

I don't expect any of you to hold my hand through this, but if you can point me to a how-to, or get me moving in the right direction I surely would appreciate it. smile.gif
Have you tried calling Gateway to see if they will send you a copy? Did you have a license number for the one you had on the PC... If so I think you might be able to download a fresh copy from Microsoft and just use your license on it (make sure you get the same version as your license... ie win7, XP, etc.).

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post #1069 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I have not called Gateway, but that's not a bad idea at all. I just figured it was simpler if I handled it myself. I'm sure there's no warranty or anything at this point.

The machine is a Gateway DX4860 with a Win7 Home Premium license and product key printed on the sticker on the case.


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post #1070 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

It's been more than a month since I bumped this slow-motion build thread. I'm bumping it now for a detour, unfortunately - not progress.

I had a problem come up with my PC the other day. I tried to fix it, and it seems I made it worse. I considered sending a PM to @Mfusick but I don't want to distract him from the twins (congratulations on that, by the way! smile.gif ).

Thanks !! biggrin.gif They are sleeping like babies right now smile.gif




I can try to help if you need it.

What model PC ? What version of Windows do you have a license for ? (hint, usually an OEM sticker on the bottom of the machine) Is it Windows 7 Home ?

Easiest way to fix is the nuclear approach. Nuke the entire thing after saving everything you can you want.

Download this legit from Microsoft Windows 7 x64 Home Premium ISO

Then burn it to a DVD.

Better yet you can go at it like a pro with a USB install stick. You can make a USB stick to install windows from with this Microsoft Windows 7 USB installation tool from Microsoft

Install it- format your USB stick (You need a bigger one, I used 8GB just fine but I think even 4GB might work)

Then you can boot from USB and install windows from that, which is faster and I find it easier than using a DVD. Both ways work great.

PRO TIP: Go into BIOS and change the setting to boot priority first from USB (or DVD if you use that) and then after the first restart you need to set it back to the HDD you used for your OS or it will try to always install in an endless loop, but removing the USB key or the DVD also works fine usually after restart to prevent it from doing it all again. If this happens you'll see what I mean wink.gif )

After you install it- enter in the code from your OEM windows sticker on the machine. That is your windows activation key. On some occassions it might fail but it will populate a window pop up with a toll free number, just call it on speaker and follow the steps (it's automated) and your windows should register just fine as legit (per your OEM key code that came with the machine).

The next step would be visit the MFG site and download and install all the proper drivers and utilities. If this is your only PC machine you might want to do that first, especially the LAN one so you can get back on the internet after installing windows. Once all the MFG drivers are installed you should be good to go. Just add back on any personal stuff you backed up and you have a fresh start. Nothing runs as smooth as a fresh install so you should like it.

or

You other option would be :

Press the F11 (or F10 ?) key on your keyboard before the operating system loads. If you've made it to the logo for your operating system, you have gone past the point where you can boot into the recovery partition. You'll need to restart your computer and try again. As soon as you see something on your computer screen, press the F11 key.

Make any changes necessary to your computer. The F11 key will automatically boot into the recovery partition. This doesn't mean that you can use your computer as normal. What it will do is bring up the System Restore program built into Windows. From here, you can restore your computer to the way it was working at an earlier time

The way to restore Gateways is to hold down the ALT Key and repeatedly hitting F10 (or F11 I forget) then it should bring you to a boot sequence screen then choose the HDD and then hold down ALT and repeatedly hit F10 again that should prompt the restore feature for gateway. If that doesn't work the only way to do it is to boot into windows and run the eRecovery program.

That is basically how you can reload from the hidden partition. But that is probably very old and outdated at this point so a fresh install and reloading of fresh drivers is a better option for you IMO

3rd option is purchase the restore DVD from gateway for a high cost mad.gif
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post #1071 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post


The machine is a Gateway DX4860


http://us.gateway.com/gw/en/US/content/drivers-downloads

Everything you need right there ^

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post #1072 of 1179 Old 05-17-2014, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike, I really appreciate your tips and guidance. In less than 3 hours, I am back running, installing my old software (itunes, sketchup, etc.). I got my settings back to where they need to be, and I cleaned out a bunch of old garbage. Much better!

I had a handy USB drive and everything went smoothly. Thanks!
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post #1073 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 08:12 AM
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Glad I could help! Keep an eye out on my theater build and pay it forward smile.gif

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post #1074 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Can I get one more tip from someone here? In the hullabaloo of the computer going down and all this, I've finally gotten around to moving the computer to the office, where there is cat5e cable in the wall - but it was originally terminated into telephone jacks, not RJ45. I have a patch panel and a few patch cables to get my wired network in place, but I'm a little confused.

The patch cables I have (monoprice) have transparent ends, and I can see the colors. The patch panel has color coded punch down slots, as well as guides for both T568A and T568B. The cables do't match the pattern of colors on the patch panel. Is the patch panel crossing over within itself? The panel is http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&format=2&p_id=7299.

Here are the three patterns:
cable: brown - green - blue - orange
T568A: blue - green - orange - brown
T568B: blue - orange - green - brown

So, should I match the color coding on the patch panel when I punch down, or should I match the cable?


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post #1075 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 01:28 PM
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Although the sequence is different from normal, follow the T568B topology on the panel precisely. As for the cable, it should already be T568B with white/orange on PIN 1 of the RJ45. I think if you look at the cable a bit more precisely, the 8 wires will be in the following sequence:

white orange
orange
white green
blue
white blue
green
white brown
brown
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post #1076 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

...follow the T568B topology on the panel precisely
You guys are GOOD! Thanks TMcG!

I come to you live from my new hard-wired connection.... Woot!

I still don't quite understand why the pattern on the punch down doesn't match the pattern in the cable (which was as you predicted, of course) but that doesn't matter at this point, since it works. I suppose the jacks and panels themselves reorganize the sequence internally...

I'll take it!
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post #1077 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 02:57 PM
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Careful because online test won't actually test your network speed or cable quality connections- Gigabit lan is much faster than internet can go (about 10x)

10/100/1000 You might be in 10/100 mode and everything looks great (which can happen with a cable problem like bad connections, or improper wiring ) except you are stuck at about 11MB/sec (MB/sec is different than mbps)

A better way to test your LAN cables or connection speed is something like this: http://www.totusoft.com/lanspeed.html

If you get only 11MB/sec or there about you could be stuck in 10/100 mode (which happens when your terminals or cat 5e/6 cables are wrong) Internet speed is a poor factor to determine cable speed or LAN speed, because your LAN should go 125MB/sec (or at least nearly 100MB/sec) but your internet goes not where near that fast.

Edit: I just tested my internet connection. Holy smokes! eek.gif

Upload is pretty slow but download looking strong today.

3508909161.png

3508909161.png
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post #1078 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 03:39 PM
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Our internet today....not so good....


Wish we had Fios in our area....
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post #1079 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 04:33 PM
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So is this ok for a Cisco Gigabit switch and internet?
Internet2_zps89bd9390.png



And this one is my SSD speed...


I have always thought my lan was slow.

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post #1080 of 1179 Old 05-18-2014, 04:58 PM
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I feed about 5 people off my Flexraid media server so my issue is usually upload bandwidth. I've seen three streams of 720p 4mbps work simultaneously at my parents, my brother, my friends... All while wife streaming on out roku and I'm playing on iPad so I have little to complain about. Before the $8 a month Comcast blast upgrade and the upgrades to my server I was lucky to get one stream to work. Now with the i7 in the server, no more 5400rpm WD drives (they are slow) and Comcast blast everything is smooth sailing.

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