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post #1201 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
This just happened.
It's not much, but it happened. I also ordered the light sockets I will need from Lowe's to build my fixtures.



Still waiting for the EP4000 to go on better sale.
I hate to bring this up but perhaps these: http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054

The round ones I find a lot easier to install. Not only do they have a lot more edge to make an air tight seal, it's a lot easier to cut circles than squares if you want to recess them.


Like I did here:AE TD15M + SEOS15 + DNA360 (active crossover) Need advice pls... :)




The square little ones are ok, so use em if you got em'

But if you had a choice, the circles I prefer.

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post #1202 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
The round ones I find a lot easier to install. Not only do they have a lot more edge to make an air tight seal, it's a lot easier to cut circles than squares if you want to recess them.
pfft..



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post #1203 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah,I thought about that, but I'm not worried about the mounting. The "pretty" subs mount on bottom, between the legs, and the "ugly" subs don't matter.

The real reason I picked those is for the set screw wire connection on the back. I couldn't find a round design with that connection.

Last edited by HopefulFred; 01-15-2015 at 09:05 AM.
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post #1204 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 09:08 AM
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That looks like more pain though...

I remember what a mess it was doing the cutouts for my braces:




Not as easy as just hitting it with a quick forstner bit.




Plus I find the circle ones seal up better. Without needing caulk or anything.
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post #1205 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
Yeah,I thought about that, but I'm not worried about the mounting. The "pretty" subs mount on bottom, between the legs, and the "ugly" subs don't matter.

The real reason I picked those is for the set screw wire connection on the back. I couldn't find a round design with that connection.
Good point. Although the screw in ones really suck. I've had them fail or pull out a couple times, it's mega pain. They are not that secure, even if you tighten them with the hand of god. And it's hard to read which is which and figure it out, get a magnify glass!.

Solder is a pain for about 5 seconds, then it's reliable and done forever. I drill out the hole with a small drill bit, so I can wrap the copper speaker wire and run it through the terminal plate and twist it back into itself, then just cover it over with electrical solder. Result is awesome connection very unlikely to ever fail. The screw down clamp ones are PITA. I got a box of em... If you want some let me know. I think I got about 16 left.

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post #1206 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Probably unrelated, but I want to keep this.http://www.theguardian.com/science/a...harriss-spiral
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post #1207 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
I hate to bring this up but perhaps these: http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054

The round ones I find a lot easier to install. Not only do they have a lot more edge to make an air tight seal, it's a lot easier to cut circles than squares if you want to recess them.


Like I did here:AE TD15M + SEOS15 + DNA360 (active crossover) Need advice pls... :)




The square little ones are ok, so use em if you got em'

But if you had a choice, the circles I prefer.
+1

I used same exact speakon terminal..........prefer due to ease of sealing. No air leaks on all four cabs.
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post #1208 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a bit of trouble. When I placed the order, PE was like, "Here you GO! Everything is in stock and ready to ship!" and I was like "Great, here's my credit card." Then today they were like, "...um so remember when we said everything was in stock? About that..."



The whole reason I went ahead with the subwoofer order, to be honest, was because PE's price on the wire was a little bit less than monoprice's. I am trying to get a few more runs into the soffits so I can be Atmos-ready. I don't need to wait two more months for no reason. Now I have to cancel that part of the order and go to monoprice...
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post #1209 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:29 PM
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I hate that about them. It's BS.
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post #1210 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
Here's a bit of trouble. When I placed the order, PE was like, "Here you GO! Everything is in stock and ready to ship!" and I was like "Great, here's my credit card." Then today they were like, "...um so remember when we said everything was in stock? About that..."



The whole reason I went ahead with the subwoofer order, to be honest, was because PE's price on the wire was a little bit less than monoprice's. I am trying to get a few more runs into the soffits so I can be Atmos-ready. I don't need to wait two more months for no reason. Now I have to cancel that part of the order and go to monoprice...

I know that it may be different down there, but in Canada locally at Home Depot they used to sell spools of FT rated in wall speaker cable quite reasonable. In fact I bought a 1000 ft spool of 12/2 for my HT install.

Al
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post #1211 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, Al. They do have it. I went to the websites and priced what I needed from both Lowes and Home Depot just now before I ordered from Monoprice. Lowes didn't have the length I wanted (200ft - I should need about 120 for Atmos) in 14/2 CL2. Home Depot did, but was about twice the cost of Monoprice (about $0.50/ft vs $0.23/ft plus shipping). I could have saved some of the difference by going with regular 16/2, since I think the CL2 rating if a little useless in my application, but I'm trying to do this by the book as much as possible. I probably also could have saved by buying 1 100ft roll and a 25 or something, but I'm sure I'll find good use for any excess eventually. So in 3-5 business days (from tomorrow, I suppose), I should have 2 100ft rolls from Monoprice.
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post #1212 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually, since I have the thread up and running tonight... let me ask the audience: For two rows in a 12x22 room, would you consider 7.1.6 or assume that 7.1.4 was going to be plenty. I think my 200ft of cable would get me either, but I didn't figure 7.1.6 was worth pursuing.

And what's the abbreviated nomenclature for the overheads (per Atmos): Lft, Rft, Lrt, Rrt, and what Lmt, Rmt? (gotta have labels for my cables )
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post #1213 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:49 PM
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Ahh yes, that is where we loose out up here, the shipping for most things within the US is cheaper or even free, try and bring it across the border and look out!


As for the FT rating, I too am a DIY'er and will go by the book when it comes to installing things, even though it is class 2 wiring I want all of my work to be defensible if challenged. (yes just wee bit paranoid some would say.)

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post #1214 of 1226 Old 01-15-2015, 06:54 PM
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Fred, my room is 16 x 21 and 2 rows and I am going to provision for 6 overhead speakers as well as front a rear heights... I am looking for a minimum of 9.1.6 (actually 2 DTS-10's)


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post #1215 of 1226 Old 01-19-2015, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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PE delivered. Still waiting on Monoprice - estimated for Thursday.

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post #1216 of 1226 Old Yesterday, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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This isn't really an update, though I will spill a couple beans.

I have prepped/run wire for 7(9).4.6 - That's seven channels of surround, but a side array of 4 instead of 2. The ceiling wire isnt pulled yet, but I'm ready to. When I cut holes in the face of the soffits I managed to cut through my 14/2 romex for the lights - twice! Luckily, I cut the same wire in two places. A pull chord (scrap wire) is in place to pull a new length of wire for the lights. It only cost me a few hours and a few dollars - oops. I've located the 6 ceiling speakers wide - in line with L and R as per Dolby. That puts them pretty close to the face of the soffits, running down the side of my narrow room. The front are 40-45 degrees up from the MLP (front and center) and the rears are the same angle in back. The middle would fit half way in between, which works out to be directly next to/above the side surrounds. I'm working on a design for speaker cabinets that I probably am incapable of building, but they could be a cool shaped design that would reinforce the steam punk design. It would integrate the side surrounds and atmos cabinets (visually, not physically), on adjacent surfaces of the soffit (face and bottom) - visually wrapping around the corner. We'll see.

In the mean time, I've been trying to finish up some stuff that I should have long ago in the wiring closet (laundry room) upstairs. That's why I'm posting - I need some tips. The first problem is probably very easy, I just haven't been able to find an answer.

I'm re-installing the receiver in the laundry room to run audio to the living areas. The speaker wire is pretty well all laid out, but I went into the attic to verify a few things before I started my wire management. I came across this:


It connects to this wire in the laundry room, which I had noticed but assumed because of the RCA end that it had been used for a sub somewhere by the previous owner of this house. Now I see it's for an FM antenna.


Of course, the receiver has a connector that doesn't match. I could just use the antenna that came with the receiver, but I'd prefer to use the one in the attic for the sake of neatness and reception. Can someone point me to what I'll need?


Thanks to anyone who can help.
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post #1217 of 1226 Old Yesterday, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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And here's what's really eating me. I identified a network cable running into the basement that I want to patch in in the upstairs closet and connect to a repeater or router or access point in the equipment rack eventually. That's the green wire. I know it's the right wire because while it still had the factory connector on it I plugged it directly to my router and I got a solid connection downstairs (laptop, WiFi disabled) So I connected up the cables at the patch panel, and it seems like somehow I only got half of them right, but I can't find a reason for them to fail (no connection at all). There are four connections in total, but only three pictured. The blue and gray cables work fine, but the green doesn't at all. Should I just try again?

Last edited by HopefulFred; Yesterday at 07:53 PM.
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post #1218 of 1226 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh,and one one more thing. The RJ45 ends that I bought from monoprice don't like to lock in to anything. I can't seem to push them in hard/far enough. I wonder if I bought the wrong kind or something.
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post #1219 of 1226 Old Yesterday, 08:54 PM
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Fred - You can't see me right now (partly because I am on the West Coast ), but I'm holding a sign that says "Will terminate for beer".

I'll be in your area next week and will be driving in....which means I can bring all of my tools, testers and what-not without any TSA nonsense!! I could even bring my fish tapes to knock out the Atmos wiring and the Romex replacement.

PM if you are interested.
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post #1220 of 1226 Old Today, 02:06 AM
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Fred,

I too am looking at putting a 4 speaker side-surround array in, my only concern being that I have no way of introducing a delay between each pair, so more than likely, won't bother trying (with the delay, the speakers will still go in, and I'll see what it sounds like - using M&K K4 tripoles).

Are you using any processing between pairs, or just feeding them identical signals too?

Given an offer like TMcG's, I'd be over it like a rash! :thumbsup:
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post #1221 of 1226 Old Today, 03:46 AM
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Hey Fred, good to see some action.

On the subject of Mr. Murphy and your NM cable, you can pick up an NM splice/tap kit from BORG to repair them. Personally I would do exactly what you are doing (replace wire), but it's always good to know your options.

As for your receiver, that's a PAL connection. Your receiver likely came with a PAL<>coax adapter. In both of my houses I have/had a winegard FM antenna in the attic... they're like $20 and work really well.

The monoprice rj45 plugs are known to be problematic. I usually just buy name brand to avoid any problems.. especially with everything using so much bandwidth now. You can see if bending the plastic locking tab will help.

As far as the green cable not working, first check that the both ends are terminated T568B. Assuming the other end is, I would yank it and try again.

Tim
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post #1222 of 1226 Old Today, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK Dreamer View Post
Are you using any processing between pairs, or just feeding them identical signals too?
For now, I have no specific plans to add processing. I would like to, if only for the challenge of learning how to do it properly. At this point, I only have processing and amplification for 7.1, so there will be a significant revamp of the signal chain required in order to get Atmos and anything else. I'm sure I'll open with 7.1 and once I can find a few good deals on the right processing and amplification, I'll make the jump.

I'll try the network cable again and see if I can't get it right...

Thanks for the feedback guys.
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post #1223 of 1226 Old Today, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Of course, the receiver has a connector that doesn't match. I could just use the antenna that came with the receiver, but I'd prefer to use the one in the attic for the sake of neatness and reception. Can someone point me to what I'll need?


Thanks to anyone who can help.
It's a simple quick connect F plug on your receiver. Standard coax coming from your attic. Converted into RCA. Then back to coax.

Get one of these.

http://www.summitsource.com/philips-...10-p-4896.html

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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post #1224 of 1226 Old Today, 08:02 AM
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No, get this: http://www.electronix.com/screw-push...vpgu7ub7dm3p70

I'll snip that RCA connector right off and terminate with a proper quad shield coax connector.
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post #1225 of 1226 Old Today, 08:47 AM
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Just convert screw on to push on...

Edit: Tim link explains it.

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post #1226 of 1226 Unread Today, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
No, get this: http://www.electronix.com/screw-push...vpgu7ub7dm3p70

I'll snip that RCA connector right off and terminate with a proper quad shield coax connector.
I guess I got confused as to what was where. Tim's right.

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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