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post #1531 of 1674 Old 03-24-2016, 06:00 PM
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Seem like you could do the same thing for a lot less with a couple 120mm fans and a controller. Not sure I see where the value is there.

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post #1532 of 1674 Old 03-24-2016, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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That might be because you haven't spoken with my wife about mission creep.
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post #1533 of 1674 Old 03-24-2016, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
That might be because you haven't spoken with my wife about mission creep.
I completely understand. However, based on my very limited knowledge of that product, I don't really see why one of these for the controller and two of these fans wouldn't be pretty much identical. You could even get two more of the fans for forced air intake as well.
Now, that MA product could have other benefits that I'm not aware of. It just doesn't seem like there is anything there that is worth that price. I'll recede to my place in the peanut gallery now as I probably don't know what I'm talking about. Please proceed.

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Last edited by BllDo; 03-25-2016 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Wrong fan link.
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post #1534 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 03:57 AM
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Yeah, a bit expensive but I suppose it depends on what you value your time at.

I used two 80mm case fans, a temp controller and a 12v wall wart. I use a 4x8 louvered grill to cover them. Total cost was probably around $20, but I had to put it all together. I do like that the temp controller displays the current cabinet temperature. Just because you put 50cfm of air transfer in the closet doesn't mean it's going to be enough. The digital display lets you know how it's working.

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post #1535 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 04:01 AM
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Those fans BllDo is recommending only move 10 CFM each. Might be enough, might not....but you could add more with that fan controller.

Have you looked at the stuff from AC Infinity that's advertised here on this site? I've never used them, but it seems to be really nice stuff at a very sharp price. Plus it gets you the digital readout you were looking for in many cases. I am sure you can Macgyver some sort of connections together for intake / outakes: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ty%2Caps%2C161
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post #1536 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
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Those fans BllDo is recommending only move 10 CFM each. Might be enough, might not....but you could add more with that fan controller.

Have you looked at the stuff from AC Infinity that's advertised here on this site? I've never used them, but it seems to be really nice stuff at a very sharp price. Plus it gets you the digital readout you were looking for in many cases. I am sure you can Macgyver some sort of connections together for intake / outakes: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ty%2Caps%2C161
Yeah my masscool fans do about 30CFM each. Need to be careful about the cfm and what they provide given a certain static pressure.

I have an AC Infinity setup for the cabinet where my PS3 and media server are. It's a really nice setup, also with temp display and a couple of options for actuation. The fan cables can be extended with standard USB cables.

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post #1537 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 07:11 AM
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The Once and Future Theater

Is this setup used for intake or exhaust?
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post #1538 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
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Is this setup used for intake or exhaust?
Passive intake and active exhaust
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post #1539 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I really like the look of the AC Infinity stuff, especially the controller and display, but none of them fit my space requirements.

The cool cube (recommended) seems the match the closet cooler specs reasonably.
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post #1540 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 06:04 PM
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not enough pictures on this thread
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post #1541 of 1674 Old 03-25-2016, 07:06 PM
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Does that Monster UPS have a switched outlet? Could you use that to power a wall wort wired to some PC fans? On when the equipment is on, off when it's not?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #1542 of 1674 Old 03-26-2016, 09:04 AM
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Thermostatically controlled is best not all on / all off regardless of actual heat load. You only want to run the fans when needed...and only to the extent needed. Otherwise you are introducing more dust into your equipment which reminds me of a AV 'life hack': Use a spent dryer sheet as a filter behind your passive air intake. It introduces negligible static pressure, does a great job of filtering dust and most households have a virtually unlimited supply of these 'free' filters that would otherwise be thrown away. Same goes for intakes of projector hush boxes.
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post #1543 of 1674 Old 04-07-2016, 05:59 AM
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Here's my setup-- a 1U vented rack panel I dremel'd to accept the temp controller. Temp controller comes with a temp probe on a lead, which I put about an inch above my receiver:

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post #1544 of 1674 Old 04-08-2016, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
Here's my setup-- a 1U vented rack panel I dremel'd to accept the temp controller. Temp controller comes with a temp probe on a lead, which I put about an inch above my receiver:
Great solution! I use those inexpensive little controllers for brewing all the time but didn't consider this type of mounting option. Nice...
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post #1545 of 1674 Old 04-08-2016, 10:46 AM
 
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I still wait for the day Bryan wants to tackle a DIY sub or speaker build as a wood working project. I'd like to see what you come up with.
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post #1546 of 1674 Old 04-14-2016, 08:58 AM
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I still wait for the day Bryan wants to tackle a DIY sub or speaker build as a wood working project. I'd like to see what you come up with.
Thanks, Mike, perhaps someday. But as you can see, I can't even finish a simple set of shop drawers at this point...
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post #1547 of 1674 Old 04-25-2016, 04:39 AM
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TBH my own reno is at about 2x what it should have been
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post #1548 of 1674 Old 05-09-2016, 01:18 PM
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Well, since Mr. Tim opened the wound....where do things stand?
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post #1549 of 1674 Old 05-09-2016, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Things stand all over the place. I think that's where I left them anyway...

I've piddled a little with final arrangements for rack hardware. It turns out that building a closet with walls that are all true and square is quite a challenge - one I haven't been up to at every turn. So there has been a fair amount of shimming and rechecking to get all four corners of my rack hardware to match up. Still not done, because I've been distracted - close though.

I've also started piddling with my surround speaker cabinet builds. I bought a sheet of 1/2" plywood to build a test cabinet. I like that it's smaller and lighter that way, and the Atmos variation of the Volt10LX that I am assembling can be only 7" deep - or so they say; I don't have a lot of confidence in the published numbers from DIYSG right now. I'll explain later.

The distraction started about two months ago when one of my coworkers left us abruptly. After he didn't show up at work for a couple days, I was recruited to take his responsibilities (there's more to the story, but it's not a conversation to have in public or with strangers). It's become a good new job for me, but I have had a lot to learn on top of training my replacement for my old position. Meanwhile, my sister continues to be my houseguest about one weekend each month and on and on with the excuses called "life." That's to say nothing of the unexpected tax bill that I have to get fixed... somewhere there is a 13 thousand dollar error. I need to pay someone to find it and fix it....
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post #1550 of 1674 Old 05-09-2016, 05:47 PM
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Sorry to hear about all the bumps in your road, but congrats on your new position. Wish I were close enough to stop by and lend a hand. Maybe someday I can plan a trip out your way.

I know all about the tax bill. They reassessed me at a second home/investment home rate instead of a residence. My bill doubled. Had to submit a ream of paper to fix it.. and I had to pay and wait for a refund.. or be assessed a penalty! Although I have to say they were very helpful. I didn't need to hire anybody to fix it.

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post #1551 of 1674 Old 06-04-2016, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's a few pics to keep you from thinking this thread is dead. It's not.

I wanted something slightly different from the normal DIYsoundgroup flatpacks for my Volt 10LX (Atmos variation). I have not yet modified my crossovers to remove the LF hump that comes from the undersized box, but that comes soon. I have been making my own "flat packs." They came out pretty good for a cheap contractor table saw with no dado blade.



I started assembly with some scraps carefully positioned on the inside surface of the baffle so that I could clamp it all up at once.



Once the glue was set on those baffle cleats, I threw them together with glue on all the mating surfaces and clamped them up. A couple drivers work as dead weight.



Here's the current status. I cut the bevel on the side, which extends beyond the back to hide terminals and mounting hardware (not yet finalized), at an angle of 7 degrees. That was about where I wanted them to be for dispersion, and I it passed the eyeball test for looking "right" to me.



I have cut 4 boxes, in various stages of glueing as of this weekend. I need another half-sheet of 1/2" MDF to make the last two side surrounds - and it will eventually be several (hopefully 6) more in a redesigned box for ceiling use once atmos becomes more affordable at that level.
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post #1552 of 1674 Old 06-04-2016, 03:03 PM
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Look great, Fred. IIRC there was somebody over in the DIY Sub forum that did similar angled cabinets (Spaceman, maybe?). Do you have a blueprint to change the crossovers, or is that within your realm of expertise?

Glad the see you are still progressing.

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post #1553 of 1674 Old 06-04-2016, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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The changes to the crossover are within my conceptual understanding, but impossible to engineer without reliable driver data. Getting the driver data is the part that is outside my current skill-set. Luckily, Matt, who designed the whole thing, published the recommendation here: http://www.hificircuit.com/community...fo-thread.438/ It's the last item in post #1

The cabinet change I made is actually really simple. I just made the sides extra long and then trimmed the extra parts at an angle. The two taller/larger panels seen in this picture are the sides to the cabinets, and the rabbet I cut in them separates the regular rectangular enclosure section from the "wings" that extend out the back.

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post #1554 of 1674 Old 06-05-2016, 08:14 AM
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Looks great, nice work...
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post #1555 of 1674 Old 06-12-2016, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know a way to wall-mount speakers flush with the ceiling (or in my case, the underside of a soffit) with no visible fasteners? I have devised a way, with a single decorative fastener that I am reasonably happy with, but it's a little convoluted.

It's a variation on a french cleat, but adjustable. The adjustment is the visible part.

I'll post pictures when I prototype it in a few days. In the meantime, any suggestions?
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post #1556 of 1674 Old 06-12-2016, 08:47 PM
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You can't use a cleat and slide it in from the side?
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post #1557 of 1674 Old 06-13-2016, 08:06 AM
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I know folks who predrill the back side of those speaker cabinets, leave the driver out during mounting and then send 3 or 4 long screws through the back of the cabinet into structure for mounting completely flush. Then install the driver and you're done.

Of course you have to make sure you are aiming them exactly where you want as there is no adjustment possible unless you remove the screws.
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post #1558 of 1674 Old 06-13-2016, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Both of those are theoretically possible... In order to conceal the wiring, I have the sides extra long. The wiring and mounting hardware hides behind the speaker which appears flush. If I could use a small french cleat and slide it in, that might work. I don't think I could screw it all up there - the screw would need to be about 6 inches long. I suppose I could... I'll think about that.

Any other ideas?

Like I said, I'll post my prototype soon.
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post #1559 of 1674 Old 06-16-2016, 06:33 PM
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I'd use a double horizontal french cleat system, then. You'd mount two cleats to the ceiling, properly spaced to the exact inside dimensions of the speaker and with the wider part of the cleat facing down. You'd mount the matching set of cleats to the back of the speaker itself at the appropriate distance, with the wider part of the cleat mounted directly to the speaker. A gap in the back vertical piece just past the height of the cleats would be preserved in the rear. This will allow you to slide the speaker from the front edge of the cleats to the back. I'd find a discrete way to introduce a set screw from somewhere through the speaker into the ceiling mounted cleats so it won't move or vibrate. Excess speaker wire can tuck between the cleat system through the gap on the back vertical of the speaker.

Hopefully this is clear, but if not, please let me know and I will create a TMcGoogle(R) Sketchup.
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post #1560 of 1674 Old 06-17-2016, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the continued support and suggestions. That's on the list of things to consider and prototype this weekend.
::Thumbs up::
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