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Old 07-13-2016, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
I have the dim buttons on mine and they permanently adjust the scene lighting level. I'm not sure if there is an option to change that....
Yes, that can be set to only a temporary adjustment, which is the way I have all of mine.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Yes, that can be set to only a temporary adjustment, which is the way I have all of mine.
Do you remember if that is adjusted in the controller or via the DIP switches on the remote switch?

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
The tape is a great idea. I'm not sure I'm going to hang it up there with the screws loose, but I can mark with tape and adjust. I hope it won't take more than a couple adjustments.
By loose, I mean just enough that when you move the PJ it moves within the adjustment range of the mount. I did take me a few attempts to get mine aligned.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I think I have it adequately square now. Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
Do you remember if that is adjusted in the controller or via the DIP switches on the remote switch?

Thanks,
Tim
I have a hunch that when you program the scene the options for Sc and Sd are what make the difference - Sd sets the Scene default, while Sc is just "current", I guess(?).

Speaking of that, I couldn't find any dip switches in my controller. I saw a list of controllers that shouldn't have dip switches, but my controller wasn't listed among them.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
I have a hunch that when you program the scene the options for Sc and Sd are what make the difference - Sd sets the Scene default, while Sc is just "current", I guess(?).

Speaking of that, I couldn't find any dip switches in my controller. I saw a list of controllers that shouldn't have dip switches, but my controller wasn't listed among them.
I don't have them on the 3506, just the remote 5-button scene switch. FWIW and to be save for all prosperity, I had two remote switches and the main controller. I put a junction box in the attic above the 3506 an joined all of the PELV wiring in it. Works great. Lutron sets a limit (I think 8') for the "T" connection.

Tim
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Over the last week or so I've been finalizing electrical work and some stuff in the rack closet. The closet is by no means done, but things are coming along. Meanwhile, I determined that I need to get a door hung.

The Mrs. and I discussed some styling options and I went to the big box store and came home with some materials. Here's what I've mocked up. If I stick with this or something similar, it will get glued to the exterior surface of the door, and maybe the interior as well. Haven't decided. The door will be a plain flush 1" 3/4 solid core luan veneer slab, 2'6" by 80"


3/4" pipe, the same style but slightly larger than the light fixtures, for the handle. We decided we would try to get away with ball-catch latch(es?) for closure, and just use push/pull handles in lieu of a proper handleset. I'm not 100% confident this won't cause trouble, but I like the idea and want to give it a real try. It will get paint to match the lights (Rustoleum oil-rubbed bronze in a spray can).


The copper (copper colored [coated?] aluminum) sheets seem like the most cost-effective way to give the door some interest in a way we like. Here is one of the sheets next to a speaker painted "black fox." I'm leaning toward painting the door woodwork to match. I bought the pine, thinking I might want to leave the grain exposed and go with a dark stain, but I am coming up short on confidence I can make that look nice.


If you look closely at the pictures, I think you'll see that I put a bevel on the stiles and mullions. How do you guys feel about the wood and paint? Does something stand out as a weird design choice?
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
If you look closely at the pictures, I think you'll see that I put a bevel on the stiles and mullions. How do you guys feel about the wood and paint? Does something stand out as a weird design choice?
I like it. I think the paint and copper will work well.

I used "invisible touch latches" for my doors because I didn't want hardware. I used them with zero seals.

Tim
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post
I used "invisible touch latches" for my doors because I didn't want hardware. I used them with zero seals.
The seals are the part which give me pause. I don't want the seals to require more pressure than the catch can hold for a good seal. Do you have any pictures of the invisible touch latches installed? I'm not sure I can visualize what that looks like on a door/jamb.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
The seals are the part which give me pause. I don't want the seals to require more pressure than the catch can hold for a good seal. Do you have any pictures of the invisible touch latches installed? I'm not sure I can visualize what that looks like on a door/jamb.
Man, it was so long ago I dont know if I could find them (if they exist at all).

The rectangle box mounts on the jamb and the "nub" looking thing mounts on the back of the door. The catch can definitely hold some pressure, but it's not magical. You're not going to get pressure like that guy who sheared the cam in his fingerprint door handle and ended up locked inside his theater But some plain silicon seals are no problem.

They also make an optional "push" mechanism that will push the heavier doors open when you unlatch it. I needed to use them for my solid core doors. I don't know if you will need them, but I would figure on getting them just in case.

Tim
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:23 AM
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I'm digging the copper! Are you planning to put any simulated rivets, gears, levers, etc.on the door? I think that might make a difference on whether you paint it or stain it. More mechanical bits and bobs would make me lean more towards paint.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:45 AM
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Me likey. I also don't mind the juxtaposition of paint and copper.

If getting a good seal is your goal, I'd modify your design so you can use a traditional latching locket. Otherwise you are looking at the kinds of lockets, latching systems which involve actuators and more sophisticated (i.e. $$$$) closure approaches to get easy passage AND a soundproof seal.

Let's face it, the door is the leakiest part and is directly across from your front LCR speakers. Personally, I want my own fortress of solitude where I can turn the volume up to "11" in the dead of night and know I'm not waking up my wife and kids. But if you and your wife are both in the theater it doesn't really matter how soundproof things are. Unless you are trying to help your dog get his 22 hours of sleep / day!
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:58 AM
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Great concept, Fred. I like the idea of a stain, and I'm sure you could pull it off, even with pine, if you seal the wood in advance. The wipe-on gel stains seem to be pretty easy to use.

Paint would look great, too, maybe even a distressed finish. Apply a few layers, sand down in places to expose some different colors, create a few scratches and dings...

In any case, I love the copper and the door handle!

Bryan
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I have considered some rivets or brackets or other surface decorations, but I'm not motivated to do it. ...not sure.

Right now my mood is "paint it and be done." Actually, I think I'm the opposite, J_P_A, in that I think I would be more likely to use extra hardware with a stain than with paint. There's a good chance it will be painted.

TMcG, on the latch, what do you think of a surface mount latch only on the inside? Maybe something antique or home made - really simple bolt or bar in a hook (like a medieval castle whateveryou-call-it?)

Thanks for the feedback guys.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:07 AM
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I'll be interested in your solution to keeping your door sealed.

For my part, I'll be using a commercial door closer to apply constant pressure to the door against the seals - no latches. I'm confident it'll work well, as that's what is used for many doors at work (in a hugely noisy environment).

Many of my co-workers think I'm a little strange, as if I go through a door I haven't passed through before, I'll quite often study the hinges, seals and other details - just to get new ideas - and when I explain to them the intracies of how to soundproof a door, I can see in their eyes - 'The old man's lost it! How many days have I got to put up with this guy?!' - I'm old enough not to care any more.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:01 AM
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I had an epiphany....what about using an automatic door closer? You can lock it out in the open position or...when it's closed...the door closer would apply gentle constant pressure against the door stop seals. This will allow you to use and style of handle you'd like yet get the exact right amount of pressure for your soundproofing / sealing concerns. Plus no mortising for the door latch / hardware.

Something like THIS
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't know much about door closers other than I am turned off by the look. I'm not willing to say never, at this point... Looking at them, I have a question or two. I see that the one you linked is rated for interior doors at 42 inches (I assume that's max) and exterior doors at 36 inches. My solid core 30 inch door plus whatever weight should be within those tolerances, so I figure that's probably okay. I see it's adjustable for speed of closing, as well as latching, so that sounds nice. The color and size are about as unobtrusive as you can get, so that's good too.

It looks like the depth of my door jamb would mean that I could not surface mount the body of the closer to the outside wall because the arm wouldn't reach through the whole jamb to the door (an extra 7 inches or so from a standard wall), so the unit would need to be mounted to the door, with the arm fixed to the underside of the top jamb. (Parallel mount)
This link to the selection guide has pictures -->https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.ne...oser_eZtip.pdf
Does that seem right? I'm not a big fan of that.

If the door opens into the theater, and there is only 2-3 inches between the door top and the ceiling (soffit), I don't think it could be mounted inside the theater could it? Maybe UK Dreamer knows the answer there?
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm trying to think of other ideas, and I wonder about magnets. The Zero door seals I have are aluminum, so I would have to get magnets into both the jamb and the door. Sounds like too much trouble.

I test-fit the ball-catch in place of the dead bolt in another door in my house, and I am not terribly optimistic that it will hold enough to keep the seals compressed.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:20 PM
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It won't and it will rattle like Hell.

I thought you might be able to gussy up the automatic door closer with some nifty paint job, non-functional parts and pieces, etc.

In the end, your handle choice is forcing a bunch of other compromises, so you may want to rethink your direction. Don't get me wrong - I like the aesthetic of what you are doing, but man does it cause a rethink of everything else.
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't have pictures tonight, but I did set off the "smoke" detector with sawdust. I should have pictures of the door work tomorrow.

I'm still working toward a door without latch or closer, though I continue to be concerned that TMcG is right. I bought a more expensive "heavy duty" roller catch and it has a lot of significant improvements over the ball catch, so I hope I can make that work.
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:17 AM
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http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/overh...ver/74178/8358

^^^This is the model of door closer I have (still sitting in it's box, waiting to be fitted). I appreciate that the above is a link to a UK site, but I'd have thought you can get something like this - they look quite a bit neater than a 'scissor' type closer, and may be worthy of consideration. It is also a much heavier duty closer than the one TMcG linked to, so you can make your door pretty much as heavy as you want, and it'll cope. It's a few more pounds/dollars than a regular door closer, but it will certainly do what you ask of it!
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
.....
If the door opens into the theater, and there is only 2-3 inches between the door top and the ceiling (soffit), I don't think it could be mounted inside the theater could it? Maybe UK Dreamer knows the answer there?
Ooops! Sorry, didn't realise a question had been asked of me!

The door closer linked to in my post above doesn't need a lot of room above - a couple of inches should be fine. My situation is similar, the 'box' gets mounted to the inside door leaf and the guide mounted to the surround above (this may be my soffit too - but detail like that is yet to be finalized).

As can be seen from the tech drawing below, the guide itself is about 3/4" deep and then it looks like 3/4" gap between the guide and 'the box' - so depth required (in this case) is just 1 1/2" - though I admit, the drawing isn't absolutely clear!





PS This closer can be mounted in several different ways - as shown in the pdf attachment.

HTH
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Last edited by UK Dreamer; 08-08-2016 at 05:20 AM.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:37 AM
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For purposes of clarity, the link I provided was just a clear picture to show what one looked like and nothing related to any type of specification for door size, weight, closing strength, etc.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:57 AM
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Ah, OK. Didn't mean to 'diss' your closer - but did want to show that there are prettier (if a door closer can be pretty) and beefier, out there.

I'm no expert; it was actually a family friend that put me on to the single lever style of closer (his company deals in door furniture), chatting to him is a bit of an eye-opener as to what is available for solutions to all sorts of problems - the trick, often, is to know what things are called in the trade - I find myself on the phone to him a lot, it's easier than Googling with the wrong search term!

As an aside, there are other types of door closers that are hidden, either within the jamb or underneath the door - they do require a lot more effort to fix correctly, so I'm not sure the risk/benefit equation would stack up for HT purposes.

http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/conce...ser/38558/6827
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Who needs a router table? (maybe I do, but this actually worked pretty well)

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Old Yesterday, 05:25 PM
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"If the squirrels and ants around your house aren't covered in sawdust, you hired the wrong redneck to build your theater!"

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Old Yesterday, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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This guy was trying to get in on the action.

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