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Old 08-29-2016, 12:49 PM
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What about the same stuff everyone recommends for sealing MDF. Zinsser BIN, IIRC. It's a shellac based coating. I think it's recommended for MDF because it doesn't cause it to swell.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What about the same stuff everyone recommends for sealing MDF. Zinsser BIN, IIRC. It's a shellac based coating. I think it's recommended for MDF because it doesn't cause it to swell.
That sounds fine to me. I just don't know what the calculus is - why that over something else?
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:51 AM
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I used General Finishes underbody primer my MDF and trim. It has a high solids content and sands smooth as silk with 400 grit 3m frecut.

On plywood I actually mixed West System epoxy and added their filler (forget which one.. it was kinda pink), and that didn't sand anywhere as easy as the GF finish.. but was tough as nails. I did my piano black finish on top of it.

GF can be sourced from Jeff at homestead refinishing. Good guy; hookd me up on some discontinued stuff.

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Old 09-17-2016, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a source for General Finishes here in ATL. I have dallied about. I have a coat of sanding sealer on one side of the door that needs sanding this weekend - after I get new shocks and struts in my car - after I change the oil - after I watch football...

Thanks for the knowledge.
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Old 10-23-2016, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress happens. I would like to say that as I approach the fifth birthday of this thread (You read that right... about to enter year six of this build), things are just about done. I could say that, but it would be either disingenuous or jinxing - I don't know which.

In either case, progress does happen. I have managed a couple coats of the same water-based paint I used for the speakers, taking Bryan's advice that any paint needs more than one day before applying any pressure to it and expecting it not to peel. Even better, in the last two weekends - with paid help - I got a door jamb built and installed and the door hung in it. Woot!



The painted inside still needs another coat of paint, and the handle is not yet painted.

The outside surface is just sanded and sealed. It still needs primer and paint. There is some assorted other patch work to do before it's fully beautiful, but it's coming along nicely. It hangs well and swings quietly. Door bottom is installed, and the stop positions are marked and were temp installed to assure proper closure.



I have stuck with the roller latch for closure. With slight modification, I have so far been impressed and remain optimistic that it will work.



The latch is made of a roller held in position by a spring. When shipped, the roller spring is the lighter set of the two (two sets, four springs) while the overall adjustment is set with the screws against the heavier set of springs. Maybe you can see that in the image I found of a latch like mine, below. I disassembled the latch and swapped the spring arrangement. The result is that I have very little leeway for adjustment, but a very strong set of springs holding the roller against the strike plate. As you can see (above), we decided it would be easier to mount and adjust if the strike plate were on the door with the latch mounted in the jamb. Maybe I just got lucky in having the door slab just he right distance from the jamb, but it seems to work really nicely for now at least.

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Old 10-23-2016, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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That brings me to my question (there is always a question, isn't there?). The first picture above does a pretty good job of showing the gap between the door jamb and the framing. What's best thing to close that gap? I hoped it would be small enough for caulk, but I don't think that's the best idea at this point.

What would you do?
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:43 PM
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Backer rod and acoustic sealant or dynaflex 230.

Depending on how wide, you could use a polyurethane sealant like Sika.. my lowes just stated carrying it. Anything over 3/4" probably won't do so good with anything else.

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Old 10-23-2016, 06:07 PM
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I'd install the case molding on the inside of the room and then use low pressure Great Stuff foam (in the blue can). Trim any excess foam and install the outer case mold.

I like backer rod and the Sika as well, but I think the gap is so substantial on the one side it has the potential of being a hot mess if not installed properly.
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:14 AM
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If you go with foam, check out the Dap foam with the applicator tip on the can. Pretty interesting stuff.. remains flexible. I only used it once, but it seems like it would work well in this application.

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Old 10-24-2016, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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How did I not know about backer rod before now? That stuff is awesome. It was basically perfect for most of the gaps I needed to fill. This set of images shows the largest gap - the only one where backer rod doesn't block all the light from the other side of the door.



Pardon the image quality: this is what you get in a very dark room when you insist your cellphone camera use no flash.



Of course, three tubes of dynaflex 230 later, I have almost entirely closed the gaps and sealed in the edges (or the whole gap) from both sides. I have a fourth tube down there waiting for some of the caulk in the largest gaps to set so I can lay another bead on top of it to fully close the gap from both sides.

I did bring home a can of the blue Dap branded expanding foam, but it didn't seem worthwhile at all once the backer rod started to settle in there.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:46 AM
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:32 AM
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Looking good!!!
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Old 10-26-2016, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the consistent help and feedback guys. I'm going to get this done!
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:14 AM
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HF, excellent progress, sir! The door looks great! Where's the overall project standing these days? I don't make on here nearly as much as I'd like, anymore. So I'm a bit behind on everyone's progress.

You may still beat me to the finish line. I've got some trim, treatments, and speakers that may never get put up

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Old 10-31-2016, 06:44 AM
 
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Paul you get your treatments up yet ?
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:19 AM
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No

I've thought about it, though! The boxes are sort of in my way at the moment.

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Old 10-31-2016, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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The finish line... ::wistful sigh::

I am getting close to a "minimum viable product" but that still is a few months away.

Actually, I began the project of co-opting the bass trap design you have for your theater. I framed in a giant box and screwed it to the screen wall. It's 8 feet long (wide), 40 inches tall, and 25 inches deep and should do pretty well as a bass trap and a speaker stand. Lowe's had insulation on sale, so I picked up a roll of R30 to hang in it. Now I just need someone with a truck to help me with about three sheets of MDF before I burn through a drill bit drilling the face of it. I'm still fiddling with my plans for hole sizing and spacing, but the modeling it pretty straightforward.

Once I have the sides and top of the trap built, I'll be in a position to hook up some amps and start measuring. (Ignoring that the rack closet is still in need of shimming and drywall, plus drywall finishing and paint, and a door...)

I still need to finish my last two subs (built, but not finished - recall that I cut the driver cutout too large and haven't finalized the repair of that error.)

Then there's still plenty of touchups and trim (door casing etc) as well as the screen wall. I'm considering some curtain options over fixed frames for the screen surround, but not sure either way.

After that, it's time for hanging the screen, and installing carpet. Assembling chairs seems like an easy step, which come immediately before firing up a disc...

Sounds easy, right?
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:52 AM
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Nothing to it. What will you do with all your time after lunch on Saturday?

Just keep chipping away at it.

Even bass response is an interesting thing. When I get around to optimizing my room, I'm going to do it for the first row and not worry about the second. I can tell a difference walking around my room, but it's really only because I'm looking for it. I doubt anyone else just visiting would know whether or not they're getting the full experience.

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Old 11-03-2016, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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It's starting to become difficult to resist "trying things out"

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Old 11-03-2016, 05:11 PM
 
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haha... nice. So what is your opinion ? Getting excited yet?
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:21 PM
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I like it!!

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Old 11-03-2016, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I have not actually connected anything, but I am seriously close with the subs. Now that I have a door, I think I can get a pretty good idea of the modal issues that I will have to deal with. Unfortunately, I don't have a working laptop at this point - so getting REW working is going to take some figuring out.

Lifting those speakers onto the "shelf" (Helmholtz trap) just about killed me. I came pretty close to dropping them twice.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally got the rack rails plumb and square, top to bottom. I just bought the cheapest windows 10 laptop I could find (shipping tomorrow, will take a few days for delivery). It's just about time to start hooking up some test equipment.

What is the smart way to rack-mount a 7-channel amp that only came with front ears? My sherbourn doesn't have rear ears - what did you guys do? (I say you guys, because I know at least two or three of you who have been so helpful helped me buy this amp too. )
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:14 PM
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You have two side walls so why not just screw in a board on each side wall, and bridge the two with a piece of L metal, to support the back of the amp?
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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^This would work. I might prefer a more modular/less permanent option (honestly, I'd like for there to be cheap rear ears available).

Maybe I could build a simple set of rails and notched sides to support a variety of different sizes of equipment. I'll be thinking about this...
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
What is the smart way to rack-mount a 7-channel amp that only came with front ears? My sherbourn doesn't have rear ears - what did you guys do? (I say you guys, because I know at least two or three of you who have been so helpful helped me buy this amp too. )
I confirmed with Sherbourn the chassis of these amps will hold with only front rack ears. However, they also said a bit of rear support takes strain off the chassis. I didn't know what to make of the double-speak so I will probably end up supporting the rear of my 3 Sherbourn amps when I go to rack mount.

The pro 'cheat' is to simply mount a blank panel under the rear of the amplifier using the rear rack rails, assuming you have rear rack rails and you've advanced the rear rack rails inward far enough to catch the back end of the amp.

The cleanest DIY version I've used many times in the past is using a picture hanging kit with the coated stranded steel wire of appropriate gauge to handle the weight. Simply mount the picture hanging hooks into framing where you can, loop the wire through the hooks and underneath / around the feet of the amp. Fold the wire back and loop it around yourself to 'adjust' the amount of tension until things are snug. Very easy, simple and elegant. If you're feeling a bit cheeky, you could use crimp eyelets to secure to the framing vs. the framing hooks.

Remember, you are only taking the edge off the total weight with a touch of rear support....not trying to support the entire amp from the rear.
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
What is the smart way to rack-mount a 7-channel amp that only came with front ears? My sherbourn doesn't have rear ears - what did you guys do? (I say you guys, because I know at least two or three of you who have been so helpful helped me buy this amp too. )

The "smart" way would be to place it on a suitably rated shelf like the Middle Atlantic SH-5A shelf. I have the same amp. I would never recommend hanging a 100lb+ anything simply from the rack ears. I called Sherbourn seeking a solution for the rear. They did not provide one. The shelf below will support 250lbs ! You can mount it "upside down" as well relative to the pic below.





Here is my PA 7-350 in my MA rack :



.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:19 AM
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I had mine mounted from just the ears for three years. I just pulled it out and it was fine.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:39 AM
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I had mine mounted from just the ears for three years. I just pulled it out and it was fine.

OSHA and the USAF E&I Standards would disagree with you.

Installing a 100lbs on a shelf vs. hanging from the front ears ONLY is a much safer option. If he can rig something to support the rear as well, that would work too. Just because something worked for 3 years does not mean it's a safe option.


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