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post #31 of 52 Old 11-27-2012, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey KG, sorry I didn't see this until today.

Yes, as far as I can tell, you can program in the other 12 scenes (aside from the 4 "hardcoded" ones). I've not done that yet, as the four I have are sufficient for my lighting needs. You can do it a couple of ways, I believe. One, you can add the buttons yourself from within the Harmony's online programming tool (which is fair, not great). Or, you can ask Logitech to send you an updated program for the Harmony One that has that in there. I've not looked at it in a while, so I couldn't tell you for sure which ones are included, or could be included, other than the main four.

Also, I believe there's a Harmony One user's thread, too, and there could be an answer there, also. Shouldn't be a problem getting that into the remote, though, even if it's manually.

Good luck!
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post #32 of 52 Old 12-06-2012, 09:47 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I have since gotten the Logitech Harmony One remote and it works great for all my Lutron Grafik Eye needs.

I do have some additional questions about the remote that perhaps you may be able to answer, because Logitech's tech support is possibly the worst I've ever encountered.

Can I use discrete codes to, for instance, switch to a particular input on my A/V receiver without navigating to the device and manually selecting the input? If so, can this be an "Activity"?

Thanks again for any help you may be able to provide!
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post #33 of 52 Old 12-07-2012, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Kid,

Yes, I believe so. Seems like I did that a while back when I wanted to switch between Monitor Main and Monitor Sub for my outputs on my Onkyo 876. And that depends on what you want to do. To set up a macro to, for example, Turn on the AVR, set it to DVD, turn on the DVD player, TV, etc., no problem. However, I found it was trickier to navigate within menus for other things, such as getting to Netflix on my OPPO BDP-93 (no problem with the new one, the BDP-103, as there is a discrete Netflix button).

Also, you can set up custom macros, "learn" the buttons on your AVR remote, etc. to enable you to create your own Activity. The online interface for the Harmony is okay, though cumbersome, and can take some trial and error at times. The Harmony thread within AVS has others facing those same issues, so you might find some more tips there, also.

I found writing down exactly what I wanted to do, then setting up the Harmony using that as a guide helps. Some folks even import button symbols to use for their favorite channels, if that's desirable.

Good luck!
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post #34 of 52 Old 12-15-2012, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Latest photo looking in from the screen side. Trying some Photoshop stuff I've been learning. Also, added some new decor, including the pictures on the back wall, courtesy of Kirkland's. Got some end table in the shape of movie reels, too, that actually look pretty nice!

The entrance needed "something", so I added these display "plaques" and the movie projector. It should fit a little more when I complete the light box for the posters.




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post #35 of 52 Old 02-13-2013, 09:35 AM
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Very nice.

You do some very high quality trim work!

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post #36 of 52 Old 02-13-2013, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey, thanks! I should, I did that for a living for about 3 years! It was one of the few aspects where I could actually get something done a little quickly!

By the way, I came to Clayton by the way of Wilmington, my first home in NC. I moved there 28 years ago tomorrow, and last lived in the Porter's Neck area (in a friend's garage apartment). Very nice area, but like Clayton, too, especially since my wife is here...! smile.gif

I think we're among the very few second story theaters on here!
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post #37 of 52 Old 02-13-2013, 10:44 AM
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Small World. You'd be blown away if you haven't seen the porter's neck area lately. For all intents and purposes its a part of Wilmywood now. Not much of a space between anymore.

I saw you post over in Wraunch's thread and cruised on over..... Upstairs theaters are rare, and I see why. It presents a few obstacles.

Always good to meet another local!

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post #38 of 52 Old 02-13-2013, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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You're right, and I actually started doing carpentry about when those expansions started (laid off from Corning after 17 years) and got to work in quite a few of those homes.

Yes, second story is interesting. Almost impossible to keep the sound out of the first floor, but all of us are there watching anyway, so only the parakeets are skeered...! Wraunch came over one day and I got to show off a bit. Even now, and I'm sure you'll agree, I look at it and ask myself how the heck did I get all this done? But soooo worth it! Now, if I can convince my wife to let me get that second sub....
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post #39 of 52 Old 02-27-2013, 08:02 AM
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Hey, you boys talking about second story theaters in NC over here!?!? I am finishing electrical this week for rough-in. Hope to knock out hvac and plumbing in the next two weeks!
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post #40 of 52 Old 02-27-2013, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Then the fun begins! You may already have, but see if you can test the circuits before the drywall goes over it. I'm sure you're very excited! Did you get those Klipsch's yet? I saw where AVS is running a special on another Klipsch system where they give you the subwoofer free! Didn't look at the price, though.

Keep at it!
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post #41 of 52 Old 02-27-2013, 08:58 AM
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I will definitely test the circuits first. Think I'm going to bite the bullet and put a Grafik Eye in so I don't have to put it in later.
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post #42 of 52 Old 02-27-2013, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Great idea! Mine was tight going in, but using that deep four gang box helped a lot. It's not difficult, but a bit tedious! And oh-so-cool looking! smile.gif
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post #43 of 52 Old 02-27-2013, 10:58 AM
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Did the inspector give you any slack for having so many lights going into that 4 gang box? For me I'll have six sets of lights going into it.

I did not buy the Klipsch. Decided it was better to wait on a deal on the RF line maybe or look at something different all together. Intrigued by the Ascend Acoustics stuff at the moment but no equipment until we get to at least rough in.
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post #44 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 03:24 AM - Thread Starter
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No, but I have a 4 zone Grafik Eye, and I left a note specifying that it was a multizone controller. I'm sure the capacity of the 4 gang should still be plenty for 6 circuits (but it's going to be crowded!) and still be within code. Your electrician should state that the wiring will be "ready" for hookup, with all grounds connected correctly, wires correct length, etc. like it's ready for the switch, outlet, etc. If I'm not mistaken, the 4 zone version actually is the same size of the 6 zone, just with two zones not added, of course. so you should be ok.

Yeah, you should have some options of size variability for your speakers (bookshelf size versus free standing for example) since you have an AT screen. Definitely, if possible, listen to some more setups, especially with known material and hopefully similar size rooms.

Good luck!
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post #45 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 04:11 AM
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You definitely want the deep (3-1/2" deep) box for the Grafik Eye. I don't know if it would be code in a standard depth box, but I do know it would be next to impossible to make it all fit in there. I have 2 GE 6-zones and even in the deep boxes I had to bend the wires nicely to get it to fit without a lot of pressure on the GE.

I also found that terminating the wires on one side of the box (vs spreading them out across the whole width of the box) made it easier to bend the wires so the unit would fit.

Another option is to have a junction box where all your lights terminate and then run just the wires you need to the GE (7 black, 1 white, 1 EGC)

Tim
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post #46 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 05:08 AM
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I have extra gang boxes from my build that are the deep boxes recommended above. If anyone is interested I will send them for my cost. Just PM me if interested.
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post #47 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree, Mr. Tim! It took some creative organizing. For that (and the rest of my wiring), I used those push connectors, which under most of the applications seemed easier and less bulk. Sometimes you can, for example, use a four wire one, with one of the holes for a pigtail, to wire into the tight areas. But, it can be done! You need to have a certain cubic inch allowance per number of specific sized wires (plus grounds) and the 3.5 inch deep box is pretty good for that. Tight squeeze, but it works!
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post #48 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

........
Another option is to have a junction box where all your lights terminate and then run just the wires you need to the GE (7 black, 1 white, 1 EGC)
.....

I've seen this recommended a couple times, and it seems like an excellent alternative if you have a good accessible place to mount the junction box. I'm certainly considering doing this once I get to that point.

One question, What are the sizing requirements for the 1 white and 1 EGC? It seems that the neutral in particular would need to be sized for the total load. That's probably not that big a deal, but it might mean running a 12/2 for those two conductors.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #49 of 52 Old 02-28-2013, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I've seen this recommended a couple times, and it seems like an excellent alternative if you have a good accessible place to mount the junction box. I'm certainly considering doing this once I get to that point.

One question, What are the sizing requirements for the 1 white and 1 EGC? It seems that the neutral in particular would need to be sized for the total load. That's probably not that big a deal, but it might mean running a 12/2 for those two conductors.

The white need only be the same size as the black. You only have a single circuit capable of drawing (15/20) amps, the single grounded conductor need only be capable of carrying (15/20a). Same with the grounding conductor.

I went with deep boxes and it wasn't a problem, except when you forget to connect one of the control cables and have to remove the entire thing to find the control wire in the wall.

Tim
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post #50 of 52 Old 07-14-2014, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Haven't posted here in a while, mainly because the theater has been doing great, and I've been making beer as the next hobby! But after several years, I've finally found a great deal on another subwoofer to make the system a 7.2! Found an amazing deal on eBay for another used Atlantic Technology 642e in satin black (which for me, was kind of a big deal, as most of the used ones I found were gloss black; no difference in build, but it's nice to also match the finish of my original sub!). The deal was made and it should arrive this Friday. I'm giddy as a little girl to check out what those of you with multiple subs mean by "smoother bass response for more listeners".

To be continued!
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post #51 of 52 Old 07-18-2014, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamptonht48 View Post
Haven't posted here in a while, mainly because the theater has been doing great, and I've been making beer as the next hobby! But after several years, I've finally found a great deal on another subwoofer to make the system a 7.2! Found an amazing deal on eBay for another used Atlantic Technology 642e in satin black (which for me, was kind of a big deal, as most of the used ones I found were gloss black; no difference in build, but it's nice to also match the finish of my original sub!). The deal was made and it should arrive this Friday. I'm giddy as a little girl to check out what those of you with multiple subs mean by "smoother bass response for more listeners".

To be continued!
The subwoofer came in last night, and I'm biting at the bit to haul it upstairs and get it set up!

Question to those that have two subs. The only position possible due to limitations in my theater is front, 1/4 the distance in. I will experiment, of course, but for those that have sealed, built-in amplification type of subs (2x), do you set one to out of phase, and/or stagger one slightly different than the distance of the other from the adjacent wall? In other words, have one 1/4 the distance, the other slightly more or less than that.

Thanks! And I'll post pics of the process once I get to them.
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post #52 of 52 Old 07-18-2014, 06:54 AM
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Hey, can you post a diagram?

Have you ever measured the room?

What processor do you use or more importantly what room correction software is in it.

Generally you want sub placement symmetrical unless your specifically addressing a specific problem.

Google toole subwoofer placement and read harman's whitpaper. Its a pretty easy read and loaded with the info you need.
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