The Theater Which Mercy Built - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 207 Old 02-12-2012, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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1) I've owned LCOS and LCD and I definitely prefer LCOS. I've never owned a DLP however and it certainly has its loyal following. You may want to check out some of those as well.

My brother-in-law has a BenQ, and it just didn't do it for me. He actually doesn't love it either, and is looking to swap it out.


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2) Stewart is cosidered the reference but yes you do pay for it. Never owned a Stewart, but Dennis Erskine uses them so they must be good. If you've got the money then that's what I would get.

Yeah, they must be great screens -- but the price increase is hefty!


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3) Overkill is a term that you should erase from your vocabulary. But no, separates would not be overkill. Once you make the jump from an AVR to separates, you'll never go back. If you're looking to purchase Klipsch THX Ultra speakers, then an AVR will simply not suffice

4) I'm an M&K fan myself. Not sure what the budget is, but I've never heard anyone say anything negative about them. My neighbor actually prefers my M&K THX select system to his Monitor Audio Silver Series. M&K is the brand of speaker that was used for mixing at least one Star Wars movie and many other big budget films so I will definitely recommend giving them a listen. I'm sure Moggie can tell you all about the Klipsch THX speakers and I'm sure they are awesome even though I've never actually heard them.

The design is now veering back to free-standing speakers and the Klipsch are high on the list. I will need to look into the M&K.


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post #62 of 207 Old 02-12-2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


Hmmm...ok, thanks for the warning. I will look into that. Gonna be working with bpape on the design, so I will run it by him. The pipe and I-beam are problems then -- the beam is about five inches wide off the top of my head. I will measure the exact distance later. I have plenty of width in the theater I think, so if I have to make it narrower, I don't think it would be a big problem.

Sounds great! I'm sure you'll get it figured out.


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post #63 of 207 Old 02-15-2012, 08:35 AM
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No kidding, they prey on gullible customers (like me). Do you have a build thread btw?

Sorry I missed this! I have to start te email notification. Didn't mean to think I was being rude! Lol. Mine is te anthracite coal build. I know stupid name. Lol. I'm framing right now. Slow bit steady going.
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post #64 of 207 Old 02-15-2012, 08:38 AM
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How far apart are the two walls going to be to accommodate the post? Were you going to space them out around it or cut a curve in the top and bottom plate to fit it? Either way would be fine. The second option might give you a little more space.

That's what I did with my post. Just make sure not to let any wood touch it. It saved me at least 3 inches.
Isn't it weird how we all love picking up 2 or 3 inches with a room width or length. I always saying "yes! Picked up a bit". As I'm moving along.
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post #65 of 207 Old 02-15-2012, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jimim View Post

Sorry I missed this! I have to start te email notification. Didn't mean to think I was being rude! Lol. Mine is te anthracite coal build. I know stupid name. Lol. I'm framing right now. Slow bit steady going.

Cool...I already checked it out...you're moving along. My father-in-law's engineering firm has a plant in Scranton actually.


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post #66 of 207 Old 02-15-2012, 11:40 AM
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Cool...I already checked it out...you're moving along. My father-in-law's engineering firm has a plant in Scranton actually.

Thanks. I'm trying to. Scranton is a thriving metropolitan these days.
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post #67 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Soundproofing questions

I spoke with bpape this week, and he seemed to think that the "dead space" was not a problem as long as there was not drywall on the inside of the cavity. But, it brought up a question in my mind regarding the decoupling of the dead space.



The reason I have the niche for the doorway is because the interior wall of theater has to be south of the metal pipe and i-beam; also, because I want the theater to be symmetrical -- thus bring the walls in to create the dead space. However, I was wondering if those walls are truly decoupled because they are connected by the north-south running studs (red arrows in above picture).

If they are not truly decoupled, how would I fix that?


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post #68 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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HVAC question

Trying to figure out how to run the HVAC supply. There are two ducts coming off the main trunk just to the north of the theater. My thought is to run both of these above the decoupled ceiling between the joists and then down to a soffit muffler on the south wall. Is it ok to cross the two flex ducts (green and blue) within the soffit so that the runs have enough length to deaden the sound transmission?



Still have to figure out what do with the lights. The LED option looks good, but I don't think the Grafik Eye 3000 is compatible with LED lights, which is a pity.


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post #69 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 08:50 AM
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Assuming the column is going where the support post is... Thin the wall, stuff the support post in the column, and widen the theater a little. The steel support beam ends up in the soffit.

Where's the av rack going?
LL
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post #70 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Rack will be opposite the entrance door, with the back open to the unfinished basement. That way, I can vent into the unfinished area and have it enclosed so my son can't get at the backs of the components.



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post #71 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Soundproofing questions

I spoke with bpape this week, and he seemed to think that the "dead space" was not a problem as long as there was not drywall on the inside of the cavity. But, it brought up a question in my mind regarding the decoupling of the dead space.

The reason I have the niche for the doorway is because the interior wall of theater has to be south of the metal pipe and i-beam; also, because I want the theater to be symmetrical -- thus bring the walls in to create the dead space. However, I was wondering if those walls are truly decoupled because they are connected by the north-south running studs (red arrows in above picture).

If they are not truly decoupled, how would I fix that?

OK, maybe I can answer my own question (maybe not). Would decoupling the north-south connecting walls from the east west outer hall wall using horizontally installed DC04 clips be of any use? Does it even matter?



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post #72 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Rack will be opposite the entrance door, with the back open to the unfinished basement. That way, I can vent into the unfinished area and have it enclosed so my son can't get at the backs of the components.

Will the open back cabinet affect your soundproofing?

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post #73 of 207 Old 02-18-2012, 11:20 PM
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rs691919, the door recess design is definitely going to couple the room to the rest of the basement. Why not continue the interior walls so that you create a another door opening parallel to the one shown as part of the theater framing (essentially two back to back frames 1/2" - 1" apart). Fit the door on the theater side and fit an empty frame where you show a door now. Done right you will have a small gap between the door frames which can by trimmed out with a thin trim strip fixed to only one side. If you ignore the door alcove this is exactly what I did.


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post #74 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

rs691919, the door recess design is definitely going to couple the room to the rest of the basement. Why not continue the interior walls so that you create a another door opening parallel to the one shown as part of the theater framing (essentially two back to back frames 1/2" - 1" apart). Fit the door on the theater side and fit an empty frame where you show a door now. Done right you will have a small gap between the door frames which can by trimmed out with a thin trim strip fixed to only one side. If you ignore the door alcove this is exactly what I did.

Moggie, I assume you mean like this:



New walls drawn in grey. My only issue with this is the loss of symmetry when looking at the screen wall from the seating area. I assume that if I were to frame up the area outlined in red to maintain symmetry, then I would be getting into the dreaded "triple-leaf effect". Any suggestions on what do with that corner?


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post #75 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 09:41 AM
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I was thinking of using some of that wall depth and recess the door area, but still do a dual wall. Decouple the end where the two walls, with acoustical sealant to seal the gap. Frame the door as two frames and do the filler strip attached to one frame.

Then I wondered if the entry was played up, the acoustical caulk could be in the corners and covered with some trim detail nailed to one wall. Then I was curious if flipping the room end for end was possible due to the height of the basement.

anyways, a whole bunch of ideas...
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post #76 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 10:36 AM
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Tedd has some interesting ideas, but this illustrates what I was thinking:

Frame following the green line. Make sure you are not coupling the framing at the red circles -- looks like you are in your drawing. Eliminate the wall with red X's.



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post #77 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Will the open back cabinet affect your soundproofing?

I don't think so...I am planning to have a door on it, but hopefully the soundproofing efforts in the theater proper will block out any added noise from the rack.


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post #78 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

I was thinking of using some of that wall depth and recess the door area, but still do a dual wall. Decouple the end where the two walls, with acoustical sealant to seal the gap. Frame the door as two frames and do the filler strip attached to one frame.

Then I wondered if the entry was played up, the acoustical caulk could be in the corners and covered with some trim detail nailed to one wall. Then I was curious if flipping the room end for end was possible due to the height of the basement.

anyways, a whole bunch of ideas...

I do like this idea, and played around with having the screen on the righthand end for a while! But I think getting it passed through the Committee for Domestic Affairs (if you know who I mean) might be difficult. Thanks though, that really is a cool idea!


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post #79 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Tedd has some interesting ideas, but this illustrates what I was thinking:

Frame following the green line. Make sure you are not coupling the framing at the red circles -- looks like you are in your drawing. Eliminate the wall with red X's.


Well that makes a helluva lot more sense. I need to start wearing around a necklace that says "WWMD". If I don't go with Tedd's excellent concept, then this will definitely take care of the issue. Thanks!!!!


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post #80 of 207 Old 02-19-2012, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Tedd, unfortunately the committee voted unanimously to reject your plan, despite my best efforts to plead your case. The committee further suggested that I should save up my capital for future decisions.


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post #81 of 207 Old 03-22-2012, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, finally back at it after a long hiatus. Got an updated preliminary plan from bpape:



My dilemma of the day: what screen size for this layout? My heart says 120" (2.40:1 screen). The front row is at about 10' (may end up being a little below actually). This would put the front row viewing angle at 53-55 degrees. A 110" screen makes the viewing angle 49 degrees - not a huge difference. But the difference in 16:9 viewing (which is probably a greater number of viewing hours) is 8" horizontal. I'm strongly leaning to the 120" -- mistake?

Dilemma #2: what kind of subwoofers? I have to confess that I am not interested in bone-rattling low frequency. Good, tight, accurate bass is what I gravitate towards. In the current design, subs will be at the front of the room behind AT fabric -- any recommendations as to size and brands for this layout?

I haven't purchased any equipment, but my current frontrunners are:

Klipsch KL-650 for fronts
Klipsch KS-7800 for sides/rears
Marantz AV7005 surround processor
Outlaw 7700 7 ch amplifier
Oppo BD93
JVC RS45
SMX 120" Promask CIH
Grafik Eye 3000
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post #82 of 207 Old 03-23-2012, 12:38 PM
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I can't tell from your diagram, is your room 19 3/4' from back wall to screen, or from wall to wall, not including false/screen wall? If you are doing false wall and AT screen and your room was only about 17' from back wall to screen, a 120" wide 2:4 ar screen sounds too big. If you have the full 19 3/4 feet then it sounds ok.

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post #83 of 207 Old 03-23-2012, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

I can't tell from your diagram, is your room 19 3/4' from back wall to screen, or from wall to wall, not including false/screen wall? If you are doing false wall and AT screen and your room was only about 17' from back wall to screen, a 120" wide 2:4 ar screen sounds too big. If you have the full 19 3/4 feet then it sounds ok.

It is 19'7" from wall to wall, so about 17'7" from back wall to screen. I'm torn but I see a lot of builds on here with similar viewing distances. And since I do watch a lot of 16:9 material (mostly sports), a bigger 16:9 viewing area is important to me.


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post #84 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Got an updated plan from Bryan last week:



Based on this I should be able to get a firm estimate from my contractor and hopefully get framing started within a month. I put together some drawings in sketchup based on Bryan's plan in order to try to figure out the HVAC situation. Light blue walls are existing, dark blue are to be constructed, dark grey are foundation:



Would appreciate thoughts on this. Since the supply duct would be in the joists above the theater I had thought this does not necessarily need to be soundproofed - is this correct? I would still have over 15 feet of duct in the soffit muffler with a five 90 degree bends. I am more concerned about the return - if I put a dead vent there with a fan, will I be creating a conduit for sound into the theater? The HVAC unit and water heater are quite loud, and would be located right next to the dead vent - is there a better location for it?


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post #85 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Also have done some work on figuring out the style of the theater. With apologies to Mario, I'm going to borrow heavily from the Cinemar build. However, I would like to use two inch thick acoustic panels in between the columns instead of column-to-column GOM covering. The panels will be framed and mounted above chair rail. As of now, they will be a deep navy blue to match the navy blue drywall, with the moulding and chair rail providing the contrast. Bryan's plan calls for 2' x 4' panels, but I am worried that might look too busy. I have mocked up the side wall for both 2' x 4' and 4' x 4' panels:





Any opinions as to which is aesthetically better? Also, any thoughts as to the navy-on-navy look of the panels? Should I build the columns as stained wood veneer -- other option would be to paint them navy as well. Keep in mind that the recliners will be a beachwood brown color


Also mocked up the rear wall, which will be OC703 covered in fabric to match the dry wall at the sides:



The two panels at the sides would not be real panels, but rather just moulding to mirror the framed panels on the side panels. Is there a good way to mount the mouldings on top of the fabric, or would I have to work the fabric in around the trim pieces?

Finally, here is a diagram of the soffit and lighting. I really like what Mario did with his ceilling, so I am essentially going to copy it (sorry!). But I am going to keep the wood light tray a stained wood color, and have it go all the way up to the ceiling, where it will be attached with crown.



Question here is: is that enough lighting for the room (assuming 50 W halogens)? Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions/queries/criticisms!


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post #86 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 12:16 PM
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Can you use the dead space in the wall to run your ductwork vertically? You could enter at the top, 90 down to the floor, then 90 over and 90 back up to ceiling height, and then 90 into the room. As long as you have that space well insulated, and possibly use DD+GG to build an isolated enclosure for the ductwork if you want go crazy with it.

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post #87 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Can you use the dead space in the wall to run your ductwork vertically? You could enter at the top, 90 down to the floor, then 90 over and 90 back up to ceiling height, and then 90 into the room. As long as you have that space well insulated, and possibly use DD+GG to build an isolated enclosure for the ductwork if you want go crazy with it.

I hadn't thought of that, but it would fairly easy to do I think. I'm assuming you mean the supply, not the return.


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post #88 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 05:46 PM
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I like the bottom panel layout better.

Looks like it's coming together nice.

so what r u doing for subs?

the other column that is by itself is there going to be one on the other side? or don't u have the room.

what's going on with ur rears? they going in the columns or up in the soffit/ceiling? or does bryan think u have enough room?

looks nice.

i'm still in framing mode for the rest of the basement. the theatre is sitting for now.

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post #89 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jimim View Post

I like the bottom panel layout better.

Looks like it's coming together nice.

so what r u doing for subs?

the other column that is by itself is there going to be one on the other side? or don't u have the room.

what's going on with ur rears? they going in the columns or up in the soffit/ceiling? or does bryan think u have enough room?

looks nice.

i'm still in framing mode for the rest of the basement. the theatre is sitting for now.

jim

Thanks jim! I think I like the bottom one with 4' x 4' panels better too. I can't wait to start framing!

1) Undecided on subs. Possibly getting the Klipsch THX Ultra 2 subs from AVS store (Mike Garrett has been very helpful!) to match the KL 650s and KS-7800s. Had also thought about getting a single Seaton Submersive HP. Any thoughts?

2) Yeah, not enough room to have another column on the door-wall and still fit the acoustic treatments in, so that column will be by itself.

3) Rear speakers will go in the columns


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post #90 of 207 Old 04-16-2012, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Thanks jim! I think I like the bottom one with 4' x 4' panels better too. I can't wait to start framing!

1) Undecided on subs. Possibly getting the Klipsch THX Ultra 2 subs from AVS store (Mike Garrett has been very helpful!) to match the KL 650s and KS-7800s. Had also thought about getting a single Seaton Submersive HP. Any thoughts?

2) Yeah, not enough room to have another column on the door-wall and still fit the acoustic treatments in, so that column will be by itself.

3) Rear speakers will go in the columns

As far as the subs go, for a theater that is as high quality as this one will be, I don't think a single sub will suffice. A submersive will get you the spl's you need, but dual subs will get you better response in the room. Dual THX Ultra Klipsch subs will be bad ass but if you can get dual Seaton's, you will be "The Man", period.


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