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post #1 of 108 Old 02-16-2012, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I removed the posts about the house and me, in retrospect probably took out too much.  But I found it disconcerting to meet a stranger and have them make assumptions about me based on details in this thread.  So I will try to stay more on topic, focusing on just the HT itself.


 

 

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post #2 of 108 Old 02-18-2012, 04:16 AM
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What happened to the sewing room?
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post #3 of 108 Old 02-18-2012, 05:35 AM
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Don't think we've seen a swimming pool go in. What is the timetable?
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post #4 of 108 Old 02-18-2012, 04:57 PM
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Do you have any concepts/pictures of theaters you would like to use as inspiration? That is a nicely sized room, let us hope that the HVAC installers and plumbers don't view that high ceiling as an invitation to go wild.
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post #5 of 108 Old 02-18-2012, 07:02 PM
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This theater (and some construction details in the thread) has some very similar design aspects, but you are right that angled wall panel is a nice touch.



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post #6 of 108 Old 02-18-2012, 07:16 PM
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Have the floor designers looked at your plans yet, or did you have an architect layout all the mechanicals when you designed the house? We were told we couldn't use open web trusses because our weight bearing walls didn't line up from one floor to the next. We ended up with some huge beams in our house. I think we've got a 4-ply, 18" LVL that was a compromise from a 24" version because of the open floor plan in our house.

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post #7 of 108 Old 02-19-2012, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I struggled with the look of the HT. I know 99% of my time will be spent with my eyes on screen, so logic says pure black fabric walls would be best. But I couldn't bring myself to do it.

I don't think I could ever do an all black room either but this is what you need to take into account. The black you see on the screen during the movie is actually the white screen with nothing showing on it. Your brain tells you it is black. When you have a lot of light colors in a room the image lights up the room and that light bounces around and actually lights up the screen a bit.

The result is on screen blacks are not as black as they could be. My point is at some point you can have too much white in a room. Your inspiration theater may have too much.
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post #8 of 108 Old 02-19-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I saw this pic last week. Someone else listed it as their inspiration. I like the sconces on the columns and the dip in the floor that the fabric wall captures. I asked Dennis to make my theater like that, but the columns and speakers wouldn't line up right in my space/seating location. I have the final concept from him, but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post it online.



Does anyone have a link to more pictures of this theater? The screen wall is interesting, it looks like you can walk around it to access the back of it.
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post #9 of 108 Old 02-28-2012, 07:13 PM
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You really have to add some pictures to this thread! I know there's been some progress, but you're being stingy here and not showing the pictures. We all like to live vicariously on someone else's dime That is, you pay the contractor, but we get to watch the concrete getting poured!

I'm going on a hunger strike until I see some pictures. Don't wait too long, though. I get cranky if I don't get breakfast!

Did you find out anything about your flooring design? I'm curious about the flooring system you will use.

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post #10 of 108 Old 02-28-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

...
Each floor has 10' ceilings. I paid a little extra to have the HT part of the basement dug down an extra 2'. Dennis suggested it. That will give me 12' walls in the theater before floor & ceiling losses. It will also put my riser level with the basement floor at the entrance.

...

Just caught your thread here. Congrats on having a great space to work with.

In my last home we had 12' basement walls as well, it was like heaven! Here is some of what I learned, which hopefully might help. None of the guys working down there in our place (myself included!) accounted for such a high ceiling in a 'basement'. The guys who normally do basement work on a ladder won't work out, you will need scaffolding, with the rolling kind the best since the floor is flat concrete. I did most of the work and just bought my own rolling scaffolding.

I had a guy do some plumbing work, and he wanted to 'rebid' his work after only a few hours since he didn't take the ceiling height into consideration. He only had a ladder and after what seemed like a thousands trips up and down he was about ready to go nuts. We agreed he should just use my scaffolding.

The concrete guys kind of had fun with it. They only did residential and didn't have the right forms for pouring the concrete at 12'. They worked it out well with the 8 foot and 4 foot forms used together. Then they didn't have long enough "rods" (whatever they call the bar they use to get the air bubbles out of the concrete while pouring it) to make it so they had to rig up something for that as well. Was stressful but handled well. At the end the 12 foot concrete wall looked massive and overkill; everyone got a nice laugh out of it.

I miss the 12' walls very much and can't wait to move and go build another home! Tall walls like that are now a must-have for me. I look forward to your pics!

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post #11 of 108 Old 03-13-2012, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
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Trying to have faith this will turn into a home......

Nothing to worry about there! It'll be a house one day. It might take longer than you want, but it'll be a house.


Well, there's my pep talk for the day Keep the pictures coming!

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post #12 of 108 Old 03-14-2012, 09:07 AM
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Yes, sir! You have waterproofing. Looks like a pretty good system as well. Sprayed on membrane plus a drainage mat with a geotextile (or whatever they're calling it these days). That should work really well. It's hard to tell from your pictures, but it looks like they're using a combination of an engineered drain tile and a conventional one as well.

You didn't ask, but here's a suggestion. Make sure they use gravel to cover the drain tile (both the engineered and conventional). You "CAN" use native soil on the engineered tiles, but it's not recommended. On top of that, the gravel should be on site anyway, so it only takes an extra couple of minutes to do.

I wouldn't worry about the water at this point. Not sure where you live, but if you've had any amount of rain it'll take a while to dry out. Particularly this time of year when it doesn't get real warm. It's also in a hole where it's shaded and protected from wind. So I don't think it's anything to worry about just based on the pictures. Did you ever find out if you'll have a sump or will your drains go to daylight?

And finally, DIY or hiring out the finish is really a personal preference. If I had the money, I'd pay to have everything done and watch a movie the night I moved into my house. Unfortunately, that's not really and option for us, so I'll have to do the work as I get money and time. I'll enjoy it (except for the drywall), but it would be nice to just to have it done. If you've got lots of time, and enjoy working on things like this, that's another reason to DIY. So it's really what you're comfortable with. If you go DIY, there's lots of people here that can help with just about everything you're likely to run into. If you pay someone, those same people can offer advice about what to watch out for with your subs.

Either way, keep the pics coming! You're going to have an amazing house, my friend!

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post #13 of 108 Old 03-14-2012, 03:38 PM
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Looks awesome

Quote:


I really wanted double doors centered on the room, but that didn't make it through the "no stupids" filter.

How is that stupid? With the layout of everything and the lobby double doors into the theatre seem to fit well. Or did you just mean that it was problematic with the build?


Where's the bar go?
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post #14 of 108 Old 03-14-2012, 05:47 PM
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That is a hell of a foundation. If your builder takes that much care through the whole project you will have a great home. Don't let them install crummy windows though.

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post #15 of 108 Old 03-14-2012, 08:02 PM
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It will turn into a wonderful home, looking good already.

You need to get a pic of a human in front of that concrete wall to give it scale. I love seeing another 12 foot wall!

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post #16 of 108 Old 03-17-2012, 09:05 PM
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Wow this looks like its going to turn out great! subscribed!

No subwoofer I've heard has been able to produce the bass I've experienced in the Corps!

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post #17 of 108 Old 03-25-2012, 06:53 AM
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I don't have hands on experience with PlyGem Mira but they look like well made windows. Good warranty too. I sell JELD-WEN Custom and Premium collections (not the junk they sell at the big orange box), and Hurd.

Very good decision to avoid plastic windows. I am not a fan of vinyl windows.

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post #18 of 108 Old 03-25-2012, 11:18 PM
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This is fantastic! Even now this has become one of my favorite threads! Great workby the builder, I am sure you will have great results. Looks wonderful. Thank you for posting, I look forward to reading the updates and progress.
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post #19 of 108 Old 03-26-2012, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Does anyone have a link to more pictures of this theater? The screen wall is interesting, it looks like you can walk around it to access the back of it.

I originally posted this from HGTV pro. It was a cedia award winner from a while back.

Check out my whole house build HERE
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post #20 of 108 Old 04-02-2012, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
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2nd question. It's been raining a lot. Judging by the way the water is pooled in the HT area, it looks like the slab isn't level. Is it reasonable to expect a level slab?

I've never worked on a project with a perfectly level concrete floor. I think it is a matter of the amount that the floor is off that would indicate whether you should be concerned. I don't know if you have the equipment to measure the high versus low side of the room to see how much slope you are talking about. How deep was the water at the extreme?

You can set up a laser level shooting across the room then take a stick and holding it straight up walk the room seeing where it hits the stick. It helps if you wait until the sun isn't really bright.

Once you know, then you need to decide if it is going to cause a problem. If it is under where the riser will go you can just adjust the framing of the riser to make it level. You might also talk to your builder about putting down a self leveling top coat.
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post #21 of 108 Old 04-02-2012, 04:58 AM
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The cracks are no big deal. Concrete shrinks as it cures so cracks are expected.

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post #22 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 06:14 AM
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Love that open web design.
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post #23 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Love that open web design.

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm looking at using these open web trusses in my own upcoming new build. My concern is that I've heard mixed reviews about using them from the different builders i'm interviewing. Most don't want to use them. Some say they aren't as safe as I-beams (fire hazard?), or that they have more deflection, which causes bouncy or squeaky floors. Does anyone have any input on pros/cons as to the quality of using these vs traditional methods?
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post #24 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 08:41 AM
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All other things being equal, an open web truss will allow more deflection than a closed web alternative of the same dimensions. The difference, however, is that the designer should take this into account in the design. That is, if the span requires a certain size closed web truss, it will likely require a different size open web truss. You can't just interchange the two like for like. This also limits you with floor designs on upper levels. If you have a weight bearing wall that must be supported mid-span of your floor, then it becomes more difficult to use open web trusses because they are not as "strong." You get to a point where you are size limited. That is, you can probably design an open web truss for any application, but if it needs to be 36", you probably will not be willing to give up that much headroom in your basement. Again, it all comes back to the floor designer understanding the constraints of the problem.

With regard to engineered floors vs traditional (I'm assuming you mean traditional dimensional lumber) then engineered floors will generally result it an a much flatter floor as well as reduced deflection. Our framers said they rarely use traditional floors anymore as they couldn't prevent squeaks with traditional lumber.

EDIT: I should point out that my experience with these products is limited, but I did quite a bit of research when discussing the flooring with my builder. This is the way I understand it, but it's subject to being completely incorrect

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post #25 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 10:38 AM
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obviously i'm not an engineer, but is it possible to mix and match different types of trusses? It looks like a great idea to go with the open web trusses above areas like the home theater, but maybe it would be better to have solid ones everywhere else?
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post #26 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 11:22 AM
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I don't see why not, but you'll have to ask for it specifically. The only problem you might run into is if the entire house, except for the theater room, calls for something like a 16" solid truss, but it would require something like an 18" or 20" in the theater, then you'll have a floor height or ceiling height difference.

As an example, my house uses solid web trusses throughout, except for areas of increased loading (i.e. a load bearing wall supported by the floor above). In those areas, they used LVL's which are solid laminated beams. in some cases these things are 24" deep by 6"-8" thick, compared to the trusses which are 16" deep.

This brings up another point. if you use open web trusses, but you have to have an LVL running through the middle of your theater to support the loading from above, you've defeated the purpose of the open web trusses. It has to be open all the way across to be of any benefit.

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post #27 of 108 Old 04-09-2012, 06:21 PM
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Find a good truss designer and they can work magic. If the truss designer knows what your requirements are, they can make it work. Getting all the other trades (especially HVAC and plumbers) coordinated can be a chore though.

One advantage to solid engineered I-joists is that they can be cut to length on site. Actually, that's only an advantage if your builder sucks and can't hit layout on the foundation and stem walls. Otherwise they will have to measure the stem walls and order the trusses to fit. Lead time can run a couple of weeks on trusses and if you don't have floor trusses the day after stem walls are complete your project stops dead.

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post #28 of 108 Old 04-13-2012, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Find a good truss designer and they can work magic. If the truss designer knows what your requirements are, they can make it work. Getting all the other trades (especially HVAC and plumbers) coordinated can be a chore though.

One advantage to solid engineered I-joists is that they can be cut to length on site. Actually, that's only an advantage if your builder sucks and can't hit layout on the foundation and stem walls. Otherwise they will have to measure the stem walls and order the trusses to fit. Lead time can run a couple of weeks on trusses and if you don't have floor trusses the day after stem walls are complete your project stops dead.

My family has owned and operated a Truss business for 25+ years. I also contracted out/Project Managed my own house construction about two years ago. A properly engineered floor system will not have sag or appreciable defelction. The engineer has a LOT of leeway in how he engineers the truss layout including truss design, depth, spacing, and interlocking concepts.

Laminated I-beams are actually generally more rigid for a smaller unit area, but do not have open spaces and are generally more expensive than trusses.

Either system could be designed to give substandard results.

Laminated systems are not that popular in my area(Coastal NC). In my experience though contractors/Project Managers who bad mouth trusses are covering their own deficiencies in planning or skill.
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post #29 of 108 Old 04-13-2012, 06:56 AM
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+1

It really comes down to your flooring designer knowing what they're doing, and you and your contractor effectively communicating what you want. If you don't specify that you want an open truss design, they will probably design a floor that meets their design criteria for deflection at the lowest cost.

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post #30 of 108 Old 04-13-2012, 02:10 PM
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I appreciate the input guys. Sounds like i need to interview some better builders. It's unbelievable what goes into building a new house (especially for the first time). Quite the learning curve. Kudos to rabident for his good looking house, and apologies for using his thread for my own questions...
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