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82K views 777 replies 72 participants last post by  jedimastergrant 
#1 · (Edited)
Finished December 2013

Version 2.0 finished February 2017 added UHD and Immersive Audio plus added another Orbit Shifter





Equipment List:

Display:
JVC DLA-NZ8

Speakers:
Mains
(3) JTR Noesis 212 HT (original 3 way model like the current HTR model)

Surrounds
Base Layer- (4) JTR S8 Slanted LP
Height Layer for Immersive Audio- (4) JTR S8 Slanted LP

Subwoofers
JTR Orbit Shifter LFU (2)

Processor:
Arcam AV40

Amplifiers:
Buckeye Amplifiers HYPEX NC502MP 4 Channel
Yamaha MX-A5000

EQ:
Dirac Live with Bass Control

Sources:
Oppo UDP 203
Samsung UBD K8500
Apple TV 4K, Roku Premier Plus, NVIDIA Shield

Remote- Harmony Elite
Rack- MA ERK series

Screen:
9 ft wide (110")
2.35:1
Enlightor Neo with Seymour AV frame.
Purchased the masking panels for 1.78:1 content.









December: Slide out media rack done, Projector shelf done, AV gear installation
November: Electrical finished, final painting done, seats and screen, lots of shelving
October: Carpet installation, Rest of basement completed, Lots of work on doors
September: Fabric Frames and lots of painting
August: HVAC Return and Doors
July: Communicating door vestibule, electrical, pull out media storage
June: Subfloor, Stage, Riser, Projection room
May: Clips, Channel, osb, dw, gg,
April: Joist muffler completed
March: Subfloor treated with double drywall and green glue
4 20 amp circuits added to basement
February: Hired new contractors to help on weekends
Ordered lots of building materials
2012
November: Lots of demo
Completed decoupling of walls
October: Soundproofing materials delivered
September: Flood!!!!!!
Wall taken down again
August: Decision made to contact thesoundproofingcompany and do it right the first time
July: JTR Orbit Shifter delivered
Wall put up to enclose room
June: AVS Pro Theater Layout Service from the Erskine Group via Shawn Byrne delivered

First dedicated room with a front projector! I am utilizing the room layout service from the Erskine Group and started the process on 3-20-12.

Soundproofing:
Walls
clips and channel on ceiling
clips and channel on rear wall that is connected to stairwell wall.
existing walls were naturally decoupled from the foundation
walls that were built used staggered stud approach
all walls attached to ceiling joists using IB3's
Floor
3/8'' serenity mat
3/4'' plywood
HVAC
joist mufflers for supplies
return muffler to be made (done)
Doors
Zero International Auto door bottoms (best seals)
Zero International door seals
Solid core 1 3/4'' then added layer of 3/4" mdf with green glue between
Double door system as well with another solid core door and DIY seals

Lighting
12 cans in soffits inside of shell
rope light around soffit perimeter
4 step lights
4 Sconces

Automation
Insteon dimmers for a total of 5 zones
Insteon Hub

Dimensions:
Width 15'
Length 19' to rear wall. There will be a small "projector booth" between the HT room and the storage area behind which will house my AV gear.
Ceilings 7'9"

Here is a basic version of the plans from the layout service. My plans are now changed slightly from this layout. I will be making the length of the room 19' which means the small 3.5'x9' space in the back of the room where the projector is will be closed off making a "projector booth and equipment closet". Several reasons: the column in the back part of that space looked funny just hanging out in the middle of nowhere, I wanted to put the projector outside of the room for heat and noise and did not want to couple it to the ceiling bc the kitchen and 3 little boys are directly overhead. This also allows me to do my AV rack outside the room and not worry about the noise, heat, or light pollution.

Click in pictures to enlarge.









Video
Here is a video that will probably help to give a better idea of the space I have to work with.



Picture of the front wall where screen will be.


Here is a similar angle after the flood and some demo.





Picture from the front of the room looking at the stairwell and the space where the wall will go.



Rear of the room post demo.




Picture of the back of the room showing entrance to the unfinished storage area where the equipment rack will be.




Back of the room post demo.



I am ceiling ht limited in this room anyway and there is a support beam and a bit of HVAC duct in the front that drops down about 9'' from the ceiling.

Seating-
Front row is 3 Berkline Director leather theater recliners (Electric recline!) at around 9.5 ft from the screen.
Second row is a large 3 seat Natuzzi leather couch with recliners on each end along with a matching Natuzzi leather reclining chair so it seats 4 adults comfortably.

Sound Treatments-
As prescribed in the avs layout.
Quest Perfsorb at first reflection points.
The rest is OC 705 DIY panels. Several 2 inch absorption panels and several diffusion panels. Treatment on all of front wall is OC Select Sound Black.
Riser made into bass trap.
Ceiling (3) GIK 242 panels

Stage-
I am copying the Sunset Cinema stage. 1 ft tall and approx 5 ft deep. Filled with sand. Do what I can to stop the Orbit Shifter from shaking the screen (accomplished).

Projector Shelf
Would like to avoid a ceiling mount because of little feet in the kitchen above shaking the projector. I mounted a shelf to the walls with IB3 clips for decoupling and placed serenity matt on top of the shelf as well and no shaking so far.
 

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#302 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23541118


Isn't this why the side of the door opposite the hinges typically has a slight back bevel to it? A few degrees of bevel shouldn't interfere with getting a good seal against the seals while still allowing for clearance.

Most doors don't have a back bevel, in my limited experience. I would be careful about too much bevel on the door, as it may interfere with a good seal against the stops when closed. It might be better to bevel the jamb to allow more clearance.


PS: I'm certainly not an authority on this sort of thing. I've hung maybe 4 or 5 doors in my life.
 
#303 ·
An 1-3/4" thick or thicker door really needs some bevel to get a nice reveal when the door is closed. Not much.. you could hand plane it if you were so inclined.


When I got my last 3 slabs they were all pre-beveled.


Beveling won't decrease the amount of door that hits the stop, but it will make it look a lot nicer from the pull side when it's closed. The gap will be smaller. The push side of the door will always have to be smaller due to the math demonstrated above.


I had never stopped to think about wider hinges needing more bevel, but it certainly makes sense.


I think the trick is not to make the jamb too wide. I found with my last slabs that a 32" door needed a 32" wide jamb opening. With square edge I would go 32-3/16". It really helps to have the door when you build the jamb!


Tim
 
#304 ·
Goodies Arrived


A few deliveries lately. The first is a very long couple of boxes from Seymour/Screen Excellence. I can't wait to put this thing together!






The second is the GOM fabric. Yards and yards.




Thanks again to Getgray for the screaming deals on these goodies!
 
#305 ·
Nice! how come i did not get a 20 pack with my GOM
Congrats on the SE screen!
 
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#307 ·
Can't wait to see them unwrapped/assembled. I also wish I knew about the July deal when ordering my fabric. A 20 pack would have come in handy.
 
#308 ·
Dry fit for Media Storage and AV Rack


I put the slide out media storage rack in place for a dry fitting. So far so good.




Here is a view from the side. Both sides have shelves.




Here is a shot from the back.




I used heavy duty castors capable of supporting several hundred pounds each. You can only see them from the back.




I am thinking about using this handle for the front. I might change my mind though and go with a bronze color but I do like the shape of this one.




I bought heavy duty K&V 500lb slides. I am going to try to put one on the bottom mounted to the floor.




And one on the top mounted to the ceiling joist and the header. I hope it works and slides out without binding!




There is a permanent shelf in the middle on both sides for strength and there is another shelf on the bottom. So 2 permanent shelves on each side. Then I have an additional 10 adjustable shelves for 5 on each side. I have not bought the hardware yet but here are the shelves.




And this is a dry fit shot of the AV rack which I found not to be square with the wall so the platform will need some work.




Last but not least this is the sconce I decided to go with. It is pretty small and I will be putting it into the 4 inch panels and I am a little nervous about how it will all come together. I will get some better pictures of them when they go up on the wall.

 
#309 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by vikgrao  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23578806


Nice! how come i did not get a 20 pack with my GOM
Congrats on the SE screen!

The beer is Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat. http://www.boulevard.com/BoulevardBeers/unfiltered-wheat-beer/

It is my every day beer brewed right here in KC. I would recommend it to anyone. I toured the brewery a few years ago and it was really fun and informative. They say they only buy wheat grown in Kansas and my dad is a Kansas wheat farmer so I like to say that I am just supporting the family product!
 
#310 ·
Nice!
 
#311 ·
Looks awesome! I bet it feels like Christmas at your house! The FedEx and UPS guys are two of my favorite people! At least they are when my stuff gets here in one piece



I like those fabrics together as well. You're going to have a great space, for sure.
 
#313 ·
@JPA, Yes I have been a VERY good boy this year! I can't to see how the fabric looks once it is up. Should know in a month or so.


@doublewing11, I am very excited about the EN4K screen. It is an area I decided to spend more money than originally planned and I hope it will be a nice screen for many years to come. With my 9.5 ft viewing distance I really needed this fabric to make the weave disappear for me.


@Spaceman, I assure you it will be unpacked and finished ASAP and most likely the Boulevard right along with it!


Today I am working on the hvac return muffler. Mine is not a dead vent as it will ultimately be connected to the main return duct but I am attempting to create a muffler for it before it reaches that point. I will post some pics later if I make some progress today.
 
#314 ·
Rope light Tray


We just made our own moulding using mdf ripped down to small strips. This would not work for everyone but the aesthetic I am going for is more modern and minimal. So I think clean lines are the way to go in this case. My rope light tray needs to be as tiny as possible due to low ceiling and a small soffit. A large tray would look wrong. So it is only a few inches in either dimension. Just enough to hide the rope light inside.


First we put down a nailor with enough room below it to put in the second piece so that it would end up flush with the bottom of the soffit. We used lots of wood glue and a finish nail gun. It really helps to have 2 people for this job so you can line everything up properly.




Then, the second "bottom" piece was put in flush at the bottom and the corners were put together at an angle to fit together nicely.




Finally, the third piece was placed. We also cut angles on all of the splices and it ended up looking pretty good although I need to do just a bit of sanding with a few of them.




Here is a side view showing several stages of construction.




I plan to hard wire my rope lights in. This is connected to an Insteon dimmer. I still have not purchased the rope light and I am torn between bright color changing LED's and incandescent lighting that I know will dim gradually just the way I want it to. If anyone can help me I am listening!




Finished. But, not a very good picture and does not do justice to what it looks like in the room. I need to get a different angle for one thing. I am actually very pleased with how it turned out. I will get better pics later. Still need to sand and prime a bit more.




The other project last week was texturing the bottom of the soffits. I was planning on putting fabric on them. It would have been cool but just a ton of work and I already have so much to do with the fabric frames and all the rest. It would have probably ended up cutting down more of my soffit height as well assuming I used shallow frames. It is already low enough. Anyway, after the texturing was done I put another coat of drywall primer on those areas and kept on trucking.


But, I ran into a little problem with my can lights after the texturing (and actually before then even). The area where the trim butts up against the soffit is not always even and there are tiny gaps. Not to mention some of them are noticeably tilted. So my tentative plan is to get some 1/8'' black rubber or foam product that I can cut into strips and line the top of the can with it. That should fill the tiny gaps and allow me to put them straight. I hope no one will notice. Find out soon.
 
#315 ·
I may steal your soffit design! Why didn't I think of this. I've been trying to leave my light tray where my can lights are open. I can just box it in, and then put a very small molding around the outside of that! Sometimes the simple solutions are the hardest to find!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23604628


........But, I ran into a little problem with my can lights after the texturing (and actually before then even). The area where the trim butts up against the soffit is not always even and there are tiny gaps. Not to mention some of them are noticeably tilted. So my tentative plan is to get some 1/8'' black rubber or foam product that I can cut into strips and line the top of the can with it. That should fill the tiny gaps and allow me to put them straight. I hope no one will notice. Find out soon.


I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Got a pic? I'm not sure what type foam product you are planning to use, but will it get too hot against the can housing?
 
#316 ·
I explained it wrong. I meant to say where the trim ring meets the soffit. The cans themselves were not put in completely straight. And then we kind of missed our chance to correct this when we were mudding around it because at that time I had planned on putting fabric on the underside of the soffit so I thought it would be all covered up anyway.


Here is what I am talking about. It is not severe but I want to do what I can to straighten up the trim rings and close the gaps that present themselves once they are straightened.


I don't know if it shows well in the pic but I can't get a good tight fit so as a result the trim is not sealed up well against the soffit.




Good point about the foam getting hot. I did not even think of that yet (I hope I would have eventually). The product I was thinking about using is to seal windows. The stuff I have is 1/16'' and has a sticky backing on one side. I don't know what the flammability properties are but I will need to find out. And maybe come up with another solution.


Here is the foam product.

 
#317 ·
How to make sure an extra thick door misses the jamb?????..........


Here are 2 pictures to illustrate my options. Door is 2 1/2 and then I will add 2 1/4 fabric frames. Would like to have a flush hidden door look. My side entry door swings into the room and misses the jamb with just a 3/16'' space between the door and the jamb on the latch side.


However, the other door in the rear needs to swing out from the room and the only way to do this and make the door flush with the sound envelope is to have at least a 1/2 gap on the latch side of the door. Obviously a large gap.


On the other hand I could set the door back in from the edge of the double 5/8 with gg assembly so that the door more easily misses the jamb. This would make only a 3/16 gap just like the other door. But, in this case my door would not be flush with the inside of the sound proof shell. So there would be a 4 inch gap or so on the jamb where the sound proof envelope is compromised. This also makes the door set back 4 inches and so I would not have a flush look. Not the end of the world in the rear of the room where there is a lot going on so it would not really look out of place.


Here is a pic of the door flush with the sound envelope. We would need at least a 1/2 gap in order to miss the jamb swinging out. We cut down a 2x6 to the thickness of the door assembly (panels included) and put it on a hinge so we could see where we would have to swing the door out to and traced an arc.



Here is a pic of the door set back in several inches which minimizes the latch side gap but makes the door no longer flush with the inside of the envelope.



So which of these options is the best compromise? Are there more options I am not thinking of? Will be putting the "best" zero international seals and door bottom on. They are 7/8 thick and are in the picture. What do you guys think is the minimum amount of that door seal that I should be catching?
 
#318 ·
Surround speaker compromise. Just like in my previous post I have another best compromise question.


I plan to have my 3 15/16 surround speakers flush with the 4 1/4 panels. I am kind of running out of options for where to place my sconces. I think the best place for them to go aesthetically is very close to where the surround speakers are. So I am trying to determine just how detrimental this could be to the acoustics. I thought about sinking the sconces into the panel to make the outside of the sconce flush with the panel. Then I would bevel the sides of the panel surrounding the sconce to a 22.5-45 degree angle. With this option there is no obstruction to the speaker but it may or may not look a little weird.


On the other hand I could place the sconce on the outside of the panel. In this case I am worried about the sconce obstructing some of the speaker. They are not direct radiators so that is a plus for this option. The tweeters as you might be able to see from the pictures are placed at the bottom of the speaker and are angled outward. They are the Triad in wall bronze surrounds.


Here is a side view of the speaker against the wall and the sconce placed close to where it would be below the speaker and flush with the panel. Should I be worried about the sconce obstructing the speaker?



Here is another angle.



Alternatively, I could place the sconce to the left side of the speaker and even in height with it. I am not sure if this is better or worse as far as the speaker is concerned (maybe worse). I need to decide by tomorrow!
 
#319 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23616218


Surround speaker compromise. Just like in my previous post I have another best compromise question.


I plan to have my 3 15/16 surround speakers flush with the 4 1/4 panels. I am kind of running out of options for where to place my sconces. I think the best place for them to go aesthetically is very close to where the surround speakers are. So I am trying to determine just how detrimental this could be to the acoustics. I thought about sinking the sconces into the panel to make the outside of the sconce flush with the panel. Then I would bevel the sides of the panel surrounding the sconce to a 22.5-45 degree angle. With this option there is no obstruction to the speaker but it may or may not look a little weird.


On the other hand I could place the sconce on the outside of the panel. In this case I am worried about the sconce obstructing some of the speaker. They are not direct radiators so that is a plus for this option. The tweeters as you might be able to see from the pictures are placed at the bottom of the speaker and are angled outward. They are the Triad in wall bronze surrounds.


Here is a side view of the speaker against the wall and the sconce placed close to where it would be below the speaker and flush with the panel. Should I be worried about the sconce obstructing the speaker?



Here is another angle.



Alternatively, I could place the sconce to the left side of the speaker and even in height with it. I am not sure if this is better or worse as far as the speaker is concerned (maybe worse). I need to decide by tomorrow!


Hey, that sconce looks like Tony Grimani's Sonata DC2 diffuser but in a different artistic flavor!!!!!!!!




Seriously, most waves hitting the sconce will be affected by opposite wall speakers and those perpendicular to the wall of placement. Your wave reflection off the sconce from the immediate located speaker will be minimal.


You'll be fine..............
 
#320 ·
Can you bevel the latch side of the door? Would that help it clear the jamb when closing it? I suspect you would still need the same amount of clearance that you detailed above, but it would only be on the leading edge. The gap on the room side (the visible gap when closed) would be much smaller.
 
#321 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23617895


Hey, that sconce looks like Tony Grimani's Sonata DC2 diffuser but in a different artistic flavor!!!!!!!!




Seriously, most waves hitting the sconce will be affected by opposite wall speakers and those perpendicular to the wall of placement. Your wave reflection off the sconce from the immediate located speaker will be minimal.


You'll be fine..............

We hit a snag today with some lumber that was not straight so I just bought myself some more time to think about it. That diffusor you linked does look like my sconce. I am still nervous about it but that alleviates my fears a bit. I am currently looking at a few alternate locations that give a little more space between the sconce and the speaker but still look decent. I think I will get away with putting the sconce on top of the panel. It will look better that way and be much easier to do.
 
#322 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23618272


Can you bevel the latch side of the door? Would that help it clear the jamb when closing it? I suspect you would still need the same amount of clearance that you detailed above, but it would only be on the leading edge. The gap on the room side (the visible gap when closed) would be much smaller.

We were planning to bevel the edge. Since the door opens out of the room we will bevel the trailing edge (theater side) I think. That edge won't show when closed because it would be pressed up against the zero seals. My worry was that I would have to shave quite a bit off of that edge and then I would not catch enough of the seal to do a good job with sound isolation. The seals are 7/8 but that includes the aluminum on either side.


Basically, we alleviate a ton of difficulties by moving the door out away from the room several inches. I asked Ted White and he said it would be ok to do that as long as I add material to the jamb with gg. Essentially, I would just be making my extra wide jamb an extension of the sound envelope. So the plan is to add 1/2'' material with gg. We lose an 1'' of door width but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. The door will also not be flush which is what I initially wanted but I think a recessed look for the door will be ok.
 
#324 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23618389


We hit a snag today with some lumber that was not straight so I just bought myself some more time to think about it. .

Isn't that the pits.......ie. lumber that is not straight!



I purchased KD No. 1's in all dimensions yet 70% of my 2 X 12's were crap.......ie. twisted, cupped, sucker knots, thick grained etc.! Being a small timberland owner, 30 years ago we would harvest 75 year old stands.........today we turn those stands over every 35-40 years and profit from thinning too. Timber isn't what it used to be................the days of fine grained timber are over!
 
#325 ·
Would something like this work?

http://s546.photobucket.com/user/j_p_a/media/door_zps8d568149.png.html


I tried to exaggerate the bevel, but I'm wondering if you bevel both the jamb and the door at the same angle, would that let it clear while opening/closing, and still give you good engagement on the seal when closed?


If I'm misunderstanding the problem, let me know, and I'll go back to just looking at the pictures
 
#326 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A  /t/1398229/sunflower-state-cinema/300#post_23618697


Would something like this work?

http://s546.photobucket.com/user/j_p_a/media/door_zps8d568149.png.html


I tried to exaggerate the bevel, but I'm wondering if you bevel both the jamb and the door at the same angle, would that let it clear while opening/closing, and still give you good engagement on the seal when closed?


If I'm misunderstanding the problem, let me know, and I'll go back to just looking at the pictures

Wow, I never thought of that. I don't know why it wouldn't work. We already laminated on the second layer to the jamb with gg so it is probably too late for me (darn). That's a great idea though. As long as the jamb is made very thick so that after it is planed a little bit you are still left with plenty of thickness. One would also want to bevel the door itself just as you stated so the smallest gap is maintained throughout the thickness of the door.


Oh, and I wish I could so sketch up like that! It would make descriptions like these so much easier. A picture is worth a thousand words. I hope others trying to tackle this problem can see your post and find a great solution to this problem.


Thanks JPA.
 
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