Sunflower State Cinema - Page 13 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #361 of 582 Old 08-29-2013, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

You might give Ted at the soundproofing company a call. They have some cable based isolators that you might be able to hang from the ceiling. I think the only catch would be whether they would introduce any swinging if there was enough bouncing around going on.

I think I already talked to him about this but it was last year. I am fairly certain that a ceiling mount would cause me problems. My kids are really rough and seem to just stomp on the wood floors non stop! I actually have a nice unused Chief mount that needs to find a new home.

I took a look at Nick's solution. I am kind of surprised that it worked actually. But, I won't argue with results. Something to keep up my sleeve if I get into trouble.

If I just do a shelf across the room I will need to think about what to do about the small gap because the shelf is already made and there is a 1/2'' gap on either side. We will see.
jedimastergrant is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #362 of 582 Old 08-31-2013, 10:54 PM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
I know it's too late, but did you ever look at ductless split hvac system? I only ask because its the route I'm going when my compressor takes a dive. So much more efficient than your typical 18+ seer zoned central air.

Example of one though there are a few different brands now:
http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/en/consumer/product-solutions/product-showcase
DotJun is offline  
post #363 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

I know it's too late, but did you ever look at ductless split hvac system? I only ask because its the route I'm going when my compressor takes a dive. So much more efficient than your typical 18+ seer zoned central air.

Example of one though there are a few different brands now:
http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/en/consumer/product-solutions/product-showcase

I did but very briefly. The quotes from my hvac guy scared me off. So I decided to just do the best I could on my own using my existing system. I am still concerned with what will happen in the winter if the theater needs cooling. I have taken a few half measures to partially address this. I installed electronic dampers in the 2 6'' supplies. My plan is if the theater is getting warm in the winter I am going to wire the dampers directly to the heating cycle of my unit so that my dampers close when the heating cycle is triggered. My heating cycle is typically pretty short. I will then have the fan on when the heating cycle is off so that the theater still gets the air exchanged but does not get supplied with hot air. Like I said it is a half measure that may or may not work but it was pretty cheap and easy to install the dampers so I just did it while I had access to the ducts.

If this fails and the room is too hot I am going to have to look at a mini split. I really really hope that it will not be necessary. I mean would you rather have a new front 3 set of speakers or a mini split? That ductless mini split is interesting. It is hard for me to believe the 19 db noise rating. If that is true then it could be an option. But, I am not going to worry about it until I start sweating!

I was told that I could always add a ducted min split later if need be but I really don't think I will need it. Unlike most people all of my equipment is out of the room including my projector. My room is really not set up well to entertain large amounts of people for games and things. And if we do I will just leave the doors open. I don't have chairs yet but I am planning on around 7-8. Time will tell..........
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #364 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 11:55 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

I did but very briefly. The quotes from my hvac guy scared me off. So I decided to just do the best I could on my own using my existing system. I am still concerned with what will happen in the winter if the theater needs cooling. I have taken a few half measures to partially address this. I installed electronic dampers in the 2 6'' supplies. My plan is if the theater is getting warm in the winter I am going to wire the dampers directly to the heating cycle of my unit so that my dampers close when the heating cycle is triggered. My heating cycle is typically pretty short. I will then have the fan on when the heating cycle is off so that the theater still gets the air exchanged but does not get supplied with hot air. Like I said it is a half measure that may or may not work but it was pretty cheap and easy to install the dampers so I just did it while I had access to the ducts.

If this fails and the room is too hot I am going to have to look at a mini split. I really really hope that it will not be necessary. I mean would you rather have a new front 3 set of speakers or a mini split? That ductless mini split is interesting. It is hard for me to believe the 19 db noise rating. If that is true then it could be an option. But, I am not going to worry about it until I start sweating!

I was told that I could always add a ducted min split later if need be but I really don't think I will need it. Unlike most people all of my equipment is out of the room including my projector. My room is really not set up well to entertain large amounts of people for games and things. And if we do I will just leave the doors open. I don't have chairs yet but I am planning on around 7-8. Time will tell..........
Honestly I meant that it is too late for you because you already have all the plumbing and what nots already installed. IF you needed a new ac system including furnace and also needed to redo your house ducting then the ductless becomes affordable, assuming of course you are picking up an 18+ seer vfd ac system with zoning. A 3 ton system like that is in the $10-15k zone depending on brand/labor here in SoCal.

What I would worry about in the winter, if you are going to be bringing in non-treated outside air into a hot room, would be humidity. You'll have to experiment with that and get a humidifier if necessary.
DotJun is offline  
post #365 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
We just bought a new heater and AC less than 2 years ago. It was just before I began my hardcore researching and realized what the HVAC needs could be for a dedicated sound isolated room. If only I knew then what I know now.....well I still might not have had the money to do anything about it but I probably could have done a good bit better than the diy system I have in place currently.

About the humidity. We do have an April Air system in place. I am not 100% sure how it works but I hope that it is cycling all the time and not just when the heater is cycling. I guess I will have to find out. I don't know how to fix that issue if that is not the case. My basement is a little more humid than the rest of the house so maybe it will not need it????
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #366 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 05:09 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 22,355
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 141 Post(s)
Liked: 761
If you had a. "Do Over" now what would you choose to do about the Hvac ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is offline  
post #367 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

If you had a. "Do Over" now what would you choose to do about the Hvac ?

Well, I would probably need to do some more research to answer that question. Since my budget was limited I really did not look into it enough. If I had the budget a ducted mini split would be really nice. I did quote out some zoning and it was multi thousands.

But, if everything works the way I hope then I would not do anything differently.

I guess if you had the money the best way to do it would be putting something into your contract that gives parameters for what you want to have the rooms temperature and humidity and that you want it at say less than 250 fpm face velocity etc. That way the hvac guy can't say he gave you a certain size unit or whatever because it is possible it might take some trial and error to get what you want.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #368 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 08:19 PM
Advanced Member
 
BroncoSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 757
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I hear that....

After planning and planning, I wish I would have put my minisplit in the AV room behind my theater and installed "pusher" fans in an opening leading into the rear of the theater. Reason being that even on the lowest of speeds, the fan turning on is noticeable. Not terribly distracting but with the noise floor so low in a dedicated theater, it is more noticeable.

I had thought about the possibility of moving it, but that would be a VERY major renovation and I am not tearing it up for this little thing. smile.gif
BroncoSport is offline  
post #369 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 10:29 PM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

We just bought a new heater and AC less than 2 years ago. It was just before I began my hardcore researching and realized what the HVAC needs could be for a dedicated sound isolated room. If only I knew then what I know now.....well I still might not have had the money to do anything about it but I probably could have done a good bit better than the diy system I have in place currently.

About the humidity. We do have an April Air system in place. I am not 100% sure how it works but I hope that it is cycling all the time and not just when the heater is cycling. I guess I will have to find out. I don't know how to fix that issue if that is not the case. My basement is a little more humid than the rest of the house so maybe it will not need it????
Yea you might not need it as cold air from outside hitting the warm air inside will actually lower humidity.
DotJun is offline  
post #370 of 582 Old 09-01-2013, 10:33 PM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Well, I would probably need to do some more research to answer that question. Since my budget was limited I really did not look into it enough. If I had the budget a ducted mini split would be really nice. I did quote out some zoning and it was multi thousands.

But, if everything works the way I hope then I would not do anything differently.

I guess if you had the money the best way to do it would be putting something into your contract that gives parameters for what you want to have the rooms temperature and humidity and that you want it at say less than 250 fpm face velocity etc. That way the hvac guy can't say he gave you a certain size unit or whatever because it is possible it might take some trial and error to get what you want.
Zoning is mucho expensive and the vfd's can only get so efficient.

You woulda gone with the ductless split system because it automatically zones and it runs on DC which means it is leaps and bounds more efficient than your conventional system.

Something like this would pay itself off for people like me who climate controls their home. My hvac system is set to 74F and stays their 24/7/365.
DotJun is offline  
post #371 of 582 Old 09-02-2013, 06:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,697
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked: 289
Actually, zoning is not as bad as one might think.................

The problem is purchasing two-stage air exchanger and air conditioner! That's the main expense.

It cost me $390 to go from 3 zone to 4 zone....................so adding a zone is not cost prohibitive especially for new construction.
doublewing11 is offline  
post #372 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 07:35 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Actually, zoning is not as bad as one might think.................

The problem is purchasing two-stage air exchanger and air conditioner! That's the main expense.

It cost me $390 to go from 3 zone to 4 zone....................so adding a zone is not cost prohibitive especially for new construction.
Contractor told me $1-2k per zone. You're right about the compressor being the expensive stuff, especially if you get a vfd.
DotJun is offline  
post #373 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Good information from all regarding the hvac choices. If I get into a bind I have a head start. I did not realize that the ductless system would be the one I wanted and it is also good to know about installing outside the room using a pusher fan to keep the noise down.

I think I was quoted around 2.5-3K to zone my home just fyi. This still would not have provided cooling for the theater in the winter from what I understand.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #374 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Suggestions for Rope Lighting???????

I need to order my rope lighting. I will be hard wiring it to romex that is hooked up to an Insteon dimmer switch.

I am torn between LED and incandescent. I am told the incandescent will dim much smoother and the LED will only dim to about 15% before shutting off abruptly. Maybe that is not big deal but I have not seen LED rope lights myself so I don't know what that looks like. The heat is a bit of a factor but I don't expect to have the rope lights on during a movie so it might not matter. I think the color changing lights are pretty cool and it would be fun to play around with this but it is not a must have if the cost is too high.

My soffits measure 12.5' by 9' from rope light tray to tray so I would need 43' of rope. I figure 50' should get me there with some to spare.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #375 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 11:09 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Good information from all regarding the hvac choices. If I get into a bind I have a head start. I did not realize that the ductless system would be the one I wanted and it is also good to know about installing outside the room using a pusher fan to keep the noise down.

I think I was quoted around 2.5-3K to zone my home just fyi. This still would not have provided cooling for the theater in the winter from what I understand.
I didn't mean to make it sound like you did the wrong thing. I on,y brought it up cause you were doing a new construct and the ductless is the new thing. I think most countries outside the US use them now.
DotJun is offline  
post #376 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 11:14 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Suggestions for Rope Lighting???????

I need to order my rope lighting. I will be hard wiring it to romex that is hooked up to an Insteon dimmer switch.

I am torn between LED and incandescent. I am told the incandescent will dim much smoother and the LED will only dim to about 15% before shutting off abruptly. Maybe that is not big deal but I have not seen LED rope lights myself so I don't know what that looks like. The heat is a bit of a factor but I don't expect to have the rope lights on during a movie so it might not matter. I think the color changing lights are pretty cool and it would be fun to play around with this but it is not a must have if the cost is too high.

My soffits measure 12.5' by 9' from rope light tray to tray so I would need 43' of rope. I figure 50' should get me there with some to spare.
Depends on the bulb as far as the dimming problem goes. I use LED lighting on my aquarium and I can dim to almost black. What's nice about the LED ones are longevity, cause lets face it, who wants to replace them when they go out and color.

My aquarium lights for instance are on a timer and dimmer so it goes from bright white to a mixture of white and blue and eventually full blue before going black. It's a nice transition effect IMO.
DotJun is offline  
post #377 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

I didn't mean to make it sound like you did the wrong thing. I on,y brought it up cause you were doing a new construct and the ductless is the new thing. I think most countries outside the US use them now.

Did not take it that way.........but I kind of know I did a half A** job and I am just crossing my fingers.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #378 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Depends on the bulb as far as the dimming problem goes. I use LED lighting on my aquarium and I can dim to almost black. What's nice about the LED ones are longevity, cause lets face it, who wants to replace them when they go out and color.

My aquarium lights for instance are on a timer and dimmer so it goes from bright white to a mixture of white and blue and eventually full blue before going black. It's a nice transition effect IMO.

Well, I looked at the color changing LED's from 1000 bulbs and they are kinda pricey. It is $58 for 10' so I would pay over $250 after buying a few extra 1' lengths. But, the real problem I see is that it looks like in order to control it you have to use a special controller. I am not sure how this works with the Insteon stuff I have. Maybe the controller is just for setting it up. The controller is not included and I don't know what it costs yet so I am pretty unsure about this route but it would be cool to have color changing LED's.

On the other hand the incandescents are $81 for 150' so I could do a triple ring around it to get some extra brightness if need be.

Edit: It looks like amazon has LED color changing lights for cheaper. $20 for 16' but I don't know the specifics and still want to know how it works with Insteon and the details on the controllers etc. Link to Tao Tronics lights
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #379 of 582 Old 09-03-2013, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44


New arrival! Sherbourn PA 7-350. I will be selling my Emotiva XPA-5 if anyone is interested.

And I can verify that it feels every bit of the advertised 100 pounds! This will be a 2 person job when it comes time to rack mount this beast!
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #380 of 582 Old 09-04-2013, 07:47 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Well, I looked at the color changing LED's from 1000 bulbs and they are kinda pricey. It is $58 for 10' so I would pay over $250 after buying a few extra 1' lengths. But, the real problem I see is that it looks like in order to control it you have to use a special controller. I am not sure how this works with the Insteon stuff I have. Maybe the controller is just for setting it up. The controller is not included and I don't know what it costs yet so I am pretty unsure about this route but it would be cool to have color changing LED's.

On the other hand the incandescents are $81 for 150' so I could do a triple ring around it to get some extra brightness if need be.

Edit: It looks like amazon has LED color changing lights for cheaper. $20 for 16' but I don't know the specifics and still want to know how it works with Insteon and the details on the controllers etc. Link to Tao Tronics lights
I don't know about the controllers but the way I see it is pay a little more for less hassle later on. I know it's a big difference percentage wise but it isn't that much dollar wise. I could understand if the difference was 58k to 250k.
DotJun is offline  
post #381 of 582 Old 09-04-2013, 08:08 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
GetGray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mid-South USA
Posts: 5,440
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Edit: It looks like amazon has LED color changing lights for cheaper. $20 for 16' but I don't know the specifics and still want to know how it works with Insteon and the details on the controllers etc. Link to Tao Tronics lights

I get my LED strips from www.ledwholesalers.com.
GetGray is offline  
post #382 of 582 Old 09-04-2013, 08:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
vanice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southside Indy
Posts: 1,180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post



New arrival! Sherbourn PA 7-350. I will be selling my Emotiva XPA-5 if anyone is interested.

And I can verify that it feels every bit of the advertised 100 pounds! This will be a 2 person job when it comes time to rack mount this beast!

So jealous... biggrin.gif

Regarding your LED questions, here is what I did. I too am using Insteon but maybe not in the exact same way that you are (not sure because I didn't research back through your thread). I have LED strips that I got off ebay (I can send you links if you would like) in my soffits and columns and control turning them off and on using an Insteon switch connected to an outlet (which the power supplies for the strips are plugged into). As far as changing color and any special effects I have a cheap controller and remote (also from the same ebay seller) that handle the job pretty well. I don't plan to tie the color changing/effects into Insteon (because I hardly ever change the color/use the special effects) but I may learn the commands from the remote and add it into my future control system of irule. The small remote isn't too bad to have laying around for demos (about the size of an iphone).
vanice is offline  
post #383 of 582 Old 09-04-2013, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Dotjun, I hear you and I don't want to buy a piece of junk.

Scott, thanks for the link to the wholesaler and I am checking it out.

Vanice, I think that is what I am trying to do except I was hoping to be as to control everything from iRule/harmony and ditch the extra remote. But if I hardly ever change the color maybe it does not matter. I did run a cat6 cable near that area that might run the ir signal but getting it into the soffit might be difficult. So I don't know what I will end up doing yet.

I also need to find something with little to no extra hardware like power supplies bc my light tray is so small there isn't anywhere to hide it. So I guess I am limited to 120v. Are my assumptions correct? I am no electrician.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #384 of 582 Old 09-05-2013, 04:04 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post



New arrival! Sherbourn PA 7-350. I will be selling my Emotiva XPA-5 if anyone is interested.

And I can verify that it feels every bit of the advertised 100 pounds! This will be a 2 person job when it comes time to rack mount this beast!
can I ask why this over the emotiva? Trying to learn as much about them before my purchase, amplifiers that is.
DotJun is offline  
post #385 of 582 Old 09-05-2013, 05:15 AM
AVS Special Member
 
vanice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southside Indy
Posts: 1,180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 41
They were blowing these out at insane prices. Two extra channels and an extra 150 watts per channel. Hard to pass that up if you are going for a 7 channel system.

Unfortunately this amp is no longer available. Sherbourn was absorbed into Emotiva thus they were clearing out the remaining Sherbourn inventory. Emotiva should be coming out with a 7 channel amp very similar to this one towards the end of the year/early 2014.
vanice is offline  
post #386 of 582 Old 09-05-2013, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
I am learning too. From what I know so far the Emotiva is a very good amplifier at its price point. The Sherbourn is a step up in quality apparently but I don't really feel I need a better quality amplifier. In reality this is really the chicken before the egg because I don't know what speakers I will have in there permanently. So I won't really know my amplification needs until then.

The reason I bought the Sherbourn is because Emotiva bought them a few years ago and are just now phasing the Sherbourn brand out and putting their tech into the higher end Emotiva amps. So the Sherbourn products went on clearance and they were selling the PA 7-350 for $999 which is a steal in my opinion. I will have a 7 channel system so it makes more sense from that standpoint as well. The Sherbourn is one of the few amps at its price point that can be said to be very stable at 4 ohms. It is possible that I will have speakers rated at that impedance one day. The Triad Golds are rated at 4 ohms and some other speakers as well. The Sherbourn has an additional 150 watts/ch compared to the XPA-5 and those watts may come in handy for an extra db or two if I don't end up with highly sensitive speakers.

I can't find it right now but there is an Audiohics article dealing with matching amplifiers to speakers and is really informative when it comes to how speakers are rated and understanding watts and impedance etc. I can't find it on my phone right now. Actually there are several helpful articles from that site. One of them deals with how they rate amplifiers and is titled An Overview to Audiohics Power Amplifier Measurements.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #387 of 582 Old 09-06-2013, 01:41 AM
Advanced Member
 
DotJun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

I am learning too. From what I know so far the Emotiva is a very good amplifier at its price point. The Sherbourn is a step up in quality apparently but I don't really feel I need a better quality amplifier. In reality this is really the chicken before the egg because I don't know what speakers I will have in there permanently. So I won't really know my amplification needs until then.

The reason I bought the Sherbourn is because Emotiva bought them a few years ago and are just now phasing the Sherbourn brand out and putting their tech into the higher end Emotiva amps. So the Sherbourn products went on clearance and they were selling the PA 7-350 for $999 which is a steal in my opinion. I will have a 7 channel system so it makes more sense from that standpoint as well. The Sherbourn is one of the few amps at its price point that can be said to be very stable at 4 ohms. It is possible that I will have speakers rated at that impedance one day. The Triad Golds are rated at 4 ohms and some other speakers as well. The Sherbourn has an additional 150 watts/ch compared to the XPA-5 and those watts may come in handy for an extra db or two if I don't end up with highly sensitive speakers.

I can't find it right now but there is an Audiohics article dealing with matching amplifiers to speakers and is really informative when it comes to how speakers are rated and understanding watts and impedance etc. I can't find it on my phone right now. Actually there are several helpful articles from that site. One of them deals with how they rate amplifiers and is titled An Overview to Audiohics Power Amplifier Measurements.
Well that sucks I missed the sale.
DotJun is offline  
post #388 of 582 Old 10-27-2013, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,839
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Fabric Frames

I decided to attempt removable frames so I could more easily adjust the acoustic treatments that will hide behind them. This complicates things quite a bit but here we go.

The method I went with was mostly friction fit using ripped down 2x4's attached to the wall to keep the panels straight and in place. There are areas I needed to supplement with velcro as well where it bowed out from the wall.

The panels themselves were made from plywood that we ripped down to the desired width. There are 2 1/4 and 4 1/4 panels on the walls. The front wall panels are closer to 1 1/2. I had someone helping me with the panels. One guy put them together with a finish nailer and the other covered them with fabric using the Porter Cable US58 so often recommended.

Here are just a fraction of the ripped down plywood strips that were used for the panels. I went ahead and painted most of them that went behind the walls dark gray and the ones on the front wall black. There was a LOT of lumber! It took awhile to paint all of it.



Some of the panels have extra bracing and several of them have extra material that will be used to attach surround speakers and sconces, etc. Here is an example of the back side of one.



This is an example of what the bracing on the wall looks like



Here is the back wall with most of the panels in place. They are still pretty dirty and I need to finish the panel that goes around where the glass portal will be but this gives you a general idea of what it will look like when finished.



The front wall still needs some tweaking bc the panels are not completely straight in spots but here ya go.



I am looking forward to posting the final pics after the speakers and sconces and everything else is in place.
jedimastergrant is offline  
post #389 of 582 Old 10-27-2013, 01:21 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,697
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked: 289
Wow...... It's been a long time!

Love your front stage! Coming along and am looking forward too how it all turns out.

BTW, always wondered why not more people use fabric track? Fast and easy.........

Heck, my wife was in charge of fabric and did a great job. Allowed me more time to complete rest of room.

Is it significantly more cost effective to build your own frames? Just curious.
doublewing11 is offline  
post #390 of 582 Old 10-27-2013, 01:53 PM
Member
 
BitChin2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Wichita, KS area
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post


I did but very briefly. The quotes from my hvac guy scared me off. So I decided to just do the best I could on my own using my existing system. I am still concerned with what will happen in the winter if the theater needs cooling. I have taken a few half measures to partially address this. I installed electronic dampers in the 2 6'' supplies. My plan is if the theater is getting warm in the winter I am going to wire the dampers directly to the heating cycle of my unit so that my dampers close when the heating cycle is triggered. My heating cycle is typically pretty short. I will then have the fan on when the heating cycle is off so that the theater still gets the air exchanged but does not get supplied with hot air. Like I said it is a half measure that may or may not work but it was pretty cheap and easy to install the dampers so I just did it while I had access to the ducts.

If this fails and the room is too hot I am going to have to look at a mini split. I really really hope that it will not be necessary. I mean would you rather have a new front 3 set of speakers or a mini split? That ductless mini split is interesting. It is hard for me to believe the 19 db noise rating. If that is true then it could be an option. But, I am not going to worry about it until I start sweating!

I was told that I could always add a ducted min split later if need be but I really don't think I will need it. Unlike most people all of my equipment is out of the room including my projector. My room is really not set up well to entertain large amounts of people for games and things. And if we do I will just leave the doors open. I don't have chairs yet but I am planning on around 7-8. Time will tell..........

 

I have 3 of the mini-split units in my house (Loft area that was difficult to duct to, garage/shop and for the dedicated theater room - love them.  All are 1 ton units and this keeps my room cool (have not yet used for heating) and I can't hear it - at 3' away it is quieter than my Epson 5030's fan.

BitChin2 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Tags
Jvc Dla Rs45 Home Theater Projector 1080p Hdmi , Klipsch Rf83 Black Each 2 Way Reference Floorstanding Speaker , Klipsch Rc 64 Ii Reference Series Center Channel Loudspeaker Black Each , Triad , Emotiva Xpa 5 5 Channel Power Amplifier , Sherbourn , Denon Avr 4311ci 9 2 Channel Network Multi Room Home Theater Receiver With Hdmi 1 4a , Harmony 900 Remote
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off