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post #181 of 582 Old 05-06-2013, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Can Lights

I purchased 12 remodel housing 4'' magnetic transformer air tight can lights from totaldirectlighting.com. I wanted IC rated new construction cans but I had a very small space to fit the lights into the soffit and these were in my budget which was another concern. We had to place the insulation 3'' away from the housing. I have heard it said that magnetic transformers in general have less hum with dimmer switches so I am giving these a shot with my Insteon dimmers. They are compatible with MR16 bulbs so I am hoping this gives me lots of choices for beam spread, watts, etc. It would be nice to have LED lights in the theater for less heat and energy consumption but I am worried about the ability to dim the lights properly. Also concerned with the halogen lights making the fabric that I plan to put under the soffit too warm. I see it all the time here on the forums but I can't help but think it could be a fire hazard. I will just have to put them in and see how hot it gets.

Here is a pic of the cans.



Here is one of the cans after installation with the side of the soffit cut away.



I tried to space the lights out as best I could. Here is what I ended up with as seen in one of the soffits. I placed 3 lights into each of the 4 sides of the room. The 3 at the front of the room are for screen wash.



We ended up placing a screw in the cans for stability. Don't want any rattles when the Orbit Shifter does what it does.


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post #182 of 582 Old 05-15-2013, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Concrete Grinding

There is a crown in the floor where it has settled over the years so I used a 4.5'' grinder to shave a little bit off the top. My only goal was to get rid of the worst of the crown so my flooring will be less troublesome. The flooring plan is to use 3/8'' Serenity Mat with DA5 compound and then 3/4" T&G plywood on top of that. Pad and carpet to finish it off.

This was an incredibly dusty job. The dust was so fine and so thick I could barely see a foot in front of my face and needed to take frequent breaks to let the dust settle.



My wife thinks I look like something out of a horror movie and snapped a pic.



Glad this job is done.


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post #183 of 582 Old 05-15-2013, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Middle Atlantic Rack

Neurorad gave me some guidance about racks and I scored a used MA WRK 37-26 LRD. A slim 5 would have been nice but I think I can make this one work. I only went a few minutes to pick it up and I think it was a fair price for a used rack that is in good shape. It is the last rack I ever plan to buy.

I could use some advice on a few things.

Shelves I was able to pick up one used shelf for a few bucks. It is 17.75'' deep. But I still need many more shelves. The RSH stuff is nice but it will have to wait due to cost. I am considering picking up a few 4 point shelves to take care of my XPA-5 and Denon 4311. There are several 20'' deep ones for sale used right next door to me. Then the majority of the rest of my stuff won't be more than 10'' deep so I was considering buying some shelves from Monoprice. Anyone have experience with them?

The rack came with several sliding mechanisms. I assume this is used to slide out servers to tinker with them. Can anyone think of a way that I can use these sliding drawer mechanisms as rack shelves? I thought about attaching a steel plat on top but how would it attach? Might be more trouble than it is worth. Does anyone know what the cost of placing a drawer onto one or more of the sliding mechanisms would cost and where I can source such a product? I could ask my carpenters to fabricate it I suppose.

Blanks The rack is more than I need for right now so if I can swing it I would like to buy some blanks to make it look all amazing and everything. The rack came with a 5.25'' blank that has a small scuff that may or may not come out. It might not bother me if I can barely see it and I put it at the very bottom. So I was looking at the blanks from Monoprice and wondering if anyone can provide information regarding those. It looks like the blanks have little white Monoprice logos which I am not fond of. But, for the price it is hard to pass up. Does anyone know of a similar priced alternative without the logos?

Here is the info from MA on the rack. http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/gang/wrkg.htm

Front angled


Front. You can see the blank at the bottom.


Side


Close up of the power strip and mechanism for the sliding shelves


Here is the shelf that came with it.


And last we have a few cable management doohickeys that may or may not work. I really have no idea and please tell me what I need if anybody knows.

(it is upside down.........oh just deal with it)

I was planning to have my electrician place an outlet at the end of the power strip where all of the stray wires are since it looks like it was just hardwired directly in the previous application. Anyone see any problems with that?


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post #184 of 582 Old 05-15-2013, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Tape/Mud Current Pics of Room

We are currently in the process of taping and mudding. Now I am finally caught up with my posts. Like many others have said the drywall really changes the look of the room after staring at framing for so long. It is also an echo chamber which I will need to address of course.

This is the front of the room. The false wall will be built around 2'8'' from the front wall.


This is the rear. The doorway on the left goes back to the projector booth and equipment room. There will then be another doorway in that room leading to an unfinished storage area.


The plan is to put the last coats on the wall and do the sanding in the next few days. Texture the ceiling too. And then tackle the flooring over the weekend.


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post #185 of 582 Old 05-17-2013, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Is it necessary to put a coat of sealant on the concrete before putting down the 3/8" serenity mat using D 5 glue compound? I have not noticed any condensation on the floor. I bought the sealant already but it can be returned. Hope to get the flooring down tomorrow so I need to make a decision now.

The concrete has been painted previously. Of course it is bare where I did the grinding.


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post #186 of 582 Old 05-17-2013, 02:05 PM
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The poor mans test for concrete moisture is to tape a 4x4 piece of 3+mil plastic down on it for 24-48 hours. See if there is any color change under the plastic after that. You can get moisture test kits from carpet and flooring trade supply houses. You shouldn't put anything down on concrete that isn't breathable IMO. Especially if it does not pass a moisture test 100%.


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post #187 of 582 Old 05-17-2013, 02:06 PM
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Not necessary if dry.

Shawn Byrne
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post #188 of 582 Old 05-17-2013, 02:47 PM
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This is the stuff the pros use to create a moisture barrier membrane on concrete floors: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-RedGard-1-Gal-Waterproofing-and-Crack-Prevention-Membrane-LQWAF1/100169081#.UZaevqLCZ8E

But like GetGray said, the proper way to find out if you have moisture is to completely tape down the edges of 3' or 4' foot squares of 3 mil (or 6 mil) plastic, wait 48 hours and see if you have any moisture underneath the poly. If you do, expect any coating you put on top to fail over time. Maybe not immediately (or anytime soon), but moisture will build under the coating.


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post #189 of 582 Old 05-17-2013, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. Well, it sounds like the coating is only a temporary moisture barrier at best. I happen to have had some 3 mil plastic lying on the concrete that I used for dust control the other day. It was not taped down but at least nothing seems damp underneath. Not a great test but as close as I will be able to get in such short notice. The rubber mat is not breathable so I don't really know what I can do about it.


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post #190 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 02:12 AM
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I didn't say that....only if you have moisture problems in the concrete, then it can be expected to fail over time....but that time could be 20 years. You said the floor is already painted, right? Are there any spots where the paint has lifted or bubbled? Any cracks in the slab where moisture may be able to come through? If the paint hasn't lifted and there re no cracks, then it is probably dry and you can just get busy with gluing down the mat since you say you don't have time to check with the poly squares. Having plastic on the floor without the edges taped won't tell you anything with regards to moisture, FYI.


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post #191 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 04:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks for the clarification. I did not think the plastic "test" I did was very useful either. I do have a crack in the concrete so maybe I should seal the crack at least?

It looks like we have had a change of plans and I have no help for this weekend so now I have the time to think this through properly and be prepared to do the flooring next weekend.


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post #192 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 08:22 AM
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Then I'd get some 3' or 4' poly squares taped to the floor right away. Completely seal the edges to the floor with tape and wait 48 hours minimum to see if any moisture collects under the poly or if there are indications of dampness.

I think it would be wise to address the cracks in the floor before laying anything down on top, but your call obviously.


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post #193 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Let the experiment begin. We will find out if there is moisture and if so I will apply the barrier.



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post #194 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

This is the stuff the pros use to create a moisture barrier membrane on concrete floors: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-RedGard-1-Gal-Waterproofing-and-Crack-Prevention-Membrane-LQWAF1/100169081#.UZaevqLCZ8E

But like GetGray said, the proper way to find out if you have moisture is to completely tape down the edges of 3' or 4' foot squares of 3 mil (or 6 mil) plastic, wait 48 hours and see if you have any moisture underneath the poly. If you do, expect any coating you put on top to fail over time. Maybe not immediately (or anytime soon), but moisture will build under the coating.

I would be a little leery of taking any advice from most of the help at Home Depot. A cement floor has to be able to breath, if not any moisture is going to puddle on top of it. That is why it clearly states on the Dry-Loc can not to use it on cement floors. The only thing you need to be concerned about is if you can actually see moisture on the cement floor. You can fill the large cracks if you want but I wouldn't fuss with the small ones as the cement floor is going to constantly move and needs room to do so.
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post #195 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I am planning to put the 3/8'' rubber mat on top of the concrete. I assumed that the rubber was not breathable. So I thought I would seal it to stop it from getting moisture built up between the layers. I know that many other people use this rubber mat on their concrete floors. So are you saying that I should not use the rubber mat at all if I do see some moisture? Even if I seal it? Since I bought the rubber mat and I cannot return it that would put me in quite the predicament.


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post #196 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macfan View Post

I would be a little leery of taking any advice from most of the help at Home Depot. A cement floor has to be able to breath, if not any moisture is going to puddle on top of it. That is why it clearly states on the Dry-Loc can not to use it on cement floors. The only thing you need to be concerned about is if you can actually see moisture on the cement floor. You can fill the large cracks if you want but I wouldn't fuss with the small ones as the cement floor is going to constantly move and needs room to do so.

It wasn't advice from Home Depot, fyi. This product is routinely used in commercial installations, but is also used in many residential applications where the amount of moisture must be carefully controlled (and stopped). The most common residential use is over the concrete slab so glue-down hardwood or engineered flooring can be installed without warping over time because it seals all the cracks and makes an impenetrable membrane. The other common residential use is over top of concrete backer board and floor substrates in shower installations. Here is a bit more installation on this product: https://www.flooringsupplyshop.com/blog/underlayment-and-waterproofing-membrane/pro-red-waterproofing-membrane-963/?main_page=blog&/underlayment-and-waterproofing-membrane/pro-red-waterproofing-membrane-963/=

There are other products available which combine the flooring adhesive and the barrier / membrane properties all in one. These are big $$ (comparatively speaking), but this one is the most prevalent: http://bostik-us.com/market-products/flooring/hardwood#mvp4

Concrete does not need to breathe. If the slab shows moisture wicking through it from the ground once this test is over, the moisture problem must be addressed first or no coating system is going to solve the problem. The concrete must only need to be dry and fully cured before any coatings - that's it. Think about it macfan....if concrete needed to breathe, epoxy and acrylic coatings for garage floors wouldn't exist as products because they REALLY seal the concrete and stop all transmission between the slab and the environment.

If Jedimaster's test shows moisture, he shouldn't seal the floor and instead address the moisture issue first. If no moisture is found, he can safely seal the concrete with a roll-on membrane and glue down the rubber mat....OR simply just glue down the rubber mat directly to the concrete since the rubber and the adhesive are both vapor barriers.

I guess we'll find out in two days.


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post #197 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

I am planning to put the 3/8'' rubber mat on top of the concrete. I assumed that the rubber was not breathable. So I thought I would seal it to stop it from getting moisture built up between the layers. I know that many other people use this rubber mat on their concrete floors. So are you saying that I should not use the rubber mat at all if I do see some moisture? Even if I seal it? Since I bought the rubber mat and I cannot return it that would put me in quite the predicament.

I am not familiar with your rubber mat so I can't comment on that. All I know is every contractor I have talked too cautioned me to seal my poured concrete walls but to not seal the floor because it has to breath. You can find a lot on this using Google. If you are seeing water on your concrete floor I think I would want to investigate as to why. I would start by checking my down spout system and move on to landscape grading, etc. If you are seeing no water on your walls but visible water on your floors, something is wrong. I have even talked to a few carpet guys about carpeting my Home Theater floor and asked what their suggestions were to put down first. All of them told me nothing is necessary except a good pad but that I could put anything I wanted down as long as the floor was dry. I have a large pond about 25/30 feet from my foundation wall and have never seen any water on my basement poured cement walls or cement floor and my place is going on 25 years old now.
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post #198 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

It wasn't advice from Home Depot, fyi. This product is routinely used in commercial installations, but is also used in many residential applications where the amount of moisture must be carefully controlled (and stopped). The most common residential use is over the concrete slab so glue-down hardwood or engineered flooring can be installed without warping over time because it seals all the cracks and makes an impenetrable membrane. The other common residential use is over top of concrete backer board and floor substrates in shower installations. Here is a bit more installation on this product: https://www.flooringsupplyshop.com/blog/underlayment-and-waterproofing-membrane/pro-red-waterproofing-membrane-963/?main_page=blog&/underlayment-and-waterproofing-membrane/pro-red-waterproofing-membrane-963/=

There are other products available which combine the flooring adhesive and the barrier / membrane properties all in one. These are big $$ (comparatively speaking), but this one is the most prevalent: http://bostik-us.com/market-products/flooring/hardwood#mvp4

Concrete does not need to breathe. If the slab shows moisture wicking through it from the ground once this test is over, the moisture problem must be addressed first or no coating system is going to solve the problem. The concrete must only need to be dry and fully cured before any coatings - that's it. Think about it macfan....if concrete needed to breathe, epoxy and acrylic coatings for garage floors wouldn't exist as products because they REALLY seal the concrete and stop all transmission between the slab and the environment.

If Jedimaster's test shows moisture, he shouldn't seal the floor and instead address the moisture issue first. If no moisture is found, he can safely seal the concrete with a roll-on membrane and glue down the rubber mat....OR simply just glue down the rubber mat directly to the concrete since the rubber and the adhesive are both vapor barriers.

I guess we'll find out in two days.

You can do what ever you want with your cement floor. I have talked with many experts and I have no intention of sealing mine. Contrary to your opinion every one of the experts has told me that a cement floor has to breath. As I mentioned before, even Dry-Loc has a warning on their can that a cement floor has to breath and not to use Dry-Loc on a cement floor.
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post #199 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 12:20 PM
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Mold and mildew are the risks.


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post #200 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Rack Questions

So I have a used MA WRK 37-26 LRD. And being a rack noob I have no idea what to do with it!

1. Framing. What is the best way to frame so I can have the rack flush with the wall? There is currently framing in place but I think I will need to remove it and start over. The ht is just right but since this rack is a little wider than I anticipated when I did the framing in the first place I think I will need to tear it out and make it wider. I also need to have enough space to do my pull out media rack which I am dreaming up designs for. I was thinking about making a strong platform maybe 6-10'' off the floor to place it on. Then the framing would be level with the platform so the rack could be brought out flush with the framing. Then have trim around the border of the rack to bridge the gap between drywall and rack. I don't plan to have any of the wt of the rack on the wall framing but I would like to at least fasten it somehow bc my kids are climbers!!!!!

2. Shelves. My equipment is as follows:

Emotiva XPA-5 17x7.75x19 and 72lb
Denon 4311 16.3x6.7x17.1 and 38lb
Motorola HD DVR 15x3.2x9.8 and 8lb
PS3 11.4x2.5x11.4 and 7lb
360 12x3.25x10 and 7lb
Wii 6x1.75x8.4 and light
Wii U 6.75x1.8x10.6 and light

Future equipment:
PS4
XBOX Infinity if that is what it is called
Amplifier for future DIY passive balancing subwoofer
Upgrade to larger amplifier for front 3 (still keep XPA-5 for surrounds)

So my options for shelves as I see them.
-local guy has several 20'' deep four point shelves for $25 ea. ($20 ea if buy 5). I figure I could use 2 of these for the XPA-5 and the 4311. For the other equipment I don't think I want to have to snake my hand in through 10 extra inches of narrow space.
-I have one 2 point shelf that is 17.5'' deep. I do not know what the wt rating is but it is perfectly sized for my 4311.
-I have looked at buying several 10'' deep shelves from Monoprice and Parts Express.
-The rack came with 3 rack server slides. I did not know that is what they were until I just looked it up. I don't know how I could use these but just throwing it out there. I have looked at buying a drawer to install on the slides but I have not found a price that I like yet.
-MA RSH shelves would be killer but too much money right now.

3. Blanks
-Monoprice or Parts Express. It looks like there is a logo on the Monoprice one and it is cheaper. I dunno if I can handle the white logo sticking out in the middle of all that black anodized goodness though.

4. Lacing bars
-Again Monoprice or Parts Express. Probably just the straight ones. The offset bars would be great for the shorter racks but they are asking too much for them.

Can anyone provide me with some guidance?


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post #201 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 05:46 PM
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Dang that is a decent price on blanks from Monoprice. I bought a few to start out and got them from an Amazon vendor and paid $7.99 shipped for my 1U blanks.

I wouldn't worry about a big white MONOPRICE logo painted on the front. A can of flat black Krylon will take care of that!!!

My Build Thread:
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post #202 of 582 Old 05-18-2013, 08:12 PM
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You should look into rack ears for the Emotiva and Denon components. Might be cheaper than shelves, but probably not. Looks nice, though, but not as nice as the custom RSH shelves. Find out how others racked their Emotivas.

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post #203 of 582 Old 05-20-2013, 12:49 PM
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To address some of your points, in order:
1. I would frame an extra 1.75" wider than the rack itself for the rough opening in all directions. Use pre-primed 3/4" x 3.5" stock in all dimensions, thereby creating a frame whose interior is just slightly larger than the rack in all dimensions. Slip this casing into the rough opening, shim where needed to preserve square and attach with finish nails. Paint as desired (probably flat black). Build your platform base high enough so when the rack is properly trimmed out as you propose, you can run case molding all around the rack while still having a full run of base molding and a small gap between the two moldings. In other words, if your base is 5" plus a 1" inch gap plus a 3" case molding, and a 1/8" reveal....your base will be 9 1/8" high. The height of your base should be exactly even with the height of the bottom casing. The rack will partially rest on the finish casing and primarily rest on the plywood base. This 3/4" casing all around allows you to create a perfectly square finished dimension inside the rough carpentry and give you a nice edge to attach your case molding all around, just like any window or door casing. It's a very clean look.

2. I personally like rack ears whenever possible - it maximizes ventilation around the equipment, gives a perfect look and often saves both money and rack space. Typically speaking, if you have a piece of equipment that is exactly 3U tall, the RSH shelf will be 4U to accommodate the feet and a bit of space above. When you start adding up all the different pieces of equipment, you can lose quite a number of rack spaces when everything is said and done.

Be careful about the gaming systems in the steel racks from a remote location....this sometimes causes transmission problems between the gaming unit and the controller. Plus, you have to extend all of the USB devices (Kinect, Wii, etc.) to the front of the room to be usable. The good transmitters put the signal over Cat-6, but make sure you weed out any compatibility issues with the USB extenders and these gaming systems FIRST. There are plenty of websites that review this kind of information.

3. Blanks are always popping up on eBay for cheap. Wait to find a guy that has a number of different sizes for a reasonable price and then pop on them. Perhaps this goes without saying....but you don't want to use all blanks...you have to find certain spots for vent panels as well to draw conditioned air past the top of the heat-emitting equipment.

4. You don't need the offset bars, especially with that rack depth. Two 10-packs of standard lacing bars will do just fine....although I prefer the "L" shaped cable lacing bars for equipment that has a ton of wires going to it, like a Preamp, matrix switch, etc. It's just easier to control.

A few other comments:
  • It's no problem hard-wiring the power strip provided you get the appropriate metal face plate that allows you to install a Romex strain relief clamp.
  • The sliding rack rails are useless to you. Remove them. If you are looking for slide-out storage, just get a Middle Atlantic D3 drawer and be done with it.
  • With your system you will not need the Panduit wire management device.
  • You can retrofit that shelf that came with the rack with an RSH faceplate. There are ways to buy the faceplate ONLY to save money. Same is true for the deeper rack shelves if you go that route and have the same tabs toward the front that are designed to hold the custom faceplate, fyi.


I hope this helps!


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post #204 of 582 Old 05-20-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Here is what I am going for.

600

Does the equipment pull out too ? Does the shelves come out for easy hook ups ? Or is it just next to the rack a pull out drawer ?

-

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post #205 of 582 Old 05-20-2013, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Neurorad,

I looked into the Emotiva XPA-5 rack ears and unfortunately it looks like they are $59. http://shop.emotiva.com/products/rackears It would be cool but I can't stomach the price right now.

Tim,

1. Great idea for framing and I will follow that description.

2. -Is there anything one can do about resolving the remote location in steel racks issue with game consoles?
-I was planning on using some of the cat6 cables that I ran as extenders for the usb peripherals as you suggested but I have not completely figured out how it all works yet. Need to do more research.
-As stated above the rack ears are expensive. I could not find rack ears for the Denon 4311. Are there any or do you buy a generic kind?

3. I will look at ebay for the blanks. I don't plan to do rsh shelves right away unless I figure out a cheap solution. I have seen diy plates here before but it looks like a lot of work. What do you guys think is the minimum space I need to allow between the top of the equipment and the shelf above it? I ask because if I don't do rsh shelves I would like to have as small a space as possible. So I am thinking I need to use at least 1u of the ventilation plates above each piece of equipment. Any opinions?

4. Will look into the faceplate only option.


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post #206 of 582 Old 05-20-2013, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Mfusick,

The rack does not pull out. Just the media storage. I have been trying to finalize my design for the pull out media storage and I am now looking into a unit with rollers on the floor so all of the weight will be on the floor. I looked into slides that extend to the 2.5-3 feet range and they are cost prohibitive if you want them to support any weight. Just too much leverage there for how deep I want my storage to be.

So I am currently trying to figure out a good way to stabilize the rack to prevent it from tipping over and to keep it in line to prevent binding. All of the weight will be on the rollers so I just need guides of some kind. I think the best place to locate them would be on the top of the cabinet so they are hidden from view.

Any ideas on the best way to make a "guide" of some kind to accomplish those things?

And are there any special kind of rollers that I should use to allow it to roll in and out as easily as possible? It will be a pretty heavy cabinet with the size I am going for and it will pull out into carpet so that will make it more difficult. The back can be kept on concrete. I considered some kind of aluminum "rails" on the floor in front of the cabinet if necessary but I hope it won't be.


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post #207 of 582 Old 05-21-2013, 09:13 AM
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Although they may seem expensive, rack ears are typically the least expensive racking option outside of a plain 'ol shelf, plus it gets you the custom look so I wouldn't discount them.

The only suggestion I have for you in racking the gaming consoles is to try it out in your location with your conditions (i.e HVAC duct, location of rack, potential electrical interference, etc.). Most of the time the systems should work fine without issue as long as the distances are reasonable and interference is minimal. You will definitely have to use the USB extenders for the Kinect, Wii and Sony Move devices. Setup is easy, just one box that plugs in on the console side and another device that plugs in near the target device. Signal goes over a single Cat5 in most cases. You do have to pay attention to the specs and/or power requirements for these devices because not all are compatible. You will need one set of USB extenders per device and cannot use a USB hub, for example.

Space above the equipment depends on heat produced by the equipment. Typically speaking, amps, old-style DVRs, receivers and other known heat-producing culprits typically get a 1U-2U vent (not blank) depending on how much heat the device produces. You are only looking for enough CFM to be drawn through the vent panel in the rack. Most source equipment doesn't need any space or blanks above or below it, fyi.


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post #208 of 582 Old 06-03-2013, 07:03 AM
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Any updates from this weekend?


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post #209 of 582 Old 06-04-2013, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Subfloor - Serenity Mat with DA5

So after 72 hours there was no moisture under the plastic covering 2 separate areas. I decided not to use the sealant based on that test.

I did apply a concrete patch compound (DAP brand I think) to the cracked areas however.

After a thorough mopping we applied the DA5 adhesive to the floor and placed 3/8'' Serenity Mat over it. Then more DA5 and a layer of 3/4'' T&G.

Here is the DA5



This is after the Serenity Mat has been laid down and another layer of DA5 going on.



DA5 is good to the last drop!



All flooring was placed with a gap around the perimeter of the walls for decoupling.


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post #210 of 582 Old 06-04-2013, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Balancing Sub "Cubby"

I wanted to have a secondary location to place a balancing sub (or subs). The room is small so I did not want to place the sub inside of the room. I decided to eat into the adjacent room to steal a few square feet to place the sub. I put it very close to the location specified in my theater design where my column sub was to be placed. We framed it out as an extension of the sound envelope.

Here is the "Sub Cubby" just to the left side of the entrance.



I decided to make a platform for the sub. I made it just like you would a stage with the same decoupled framing, sand filled, multiple layers of decking with green glue.

You can see that we also made sure the wood on the subfloor was decoupled. The riser is right next to the sub cubby but is completely decoupled from it.





You can see the cubby near the top of the picture filled with sand ready for the decking.



The cubby will be covered in fabric panels for a seamless look with the rest of the wall. So no one will know it is there. I made the interior dimensions with a DIY 18'' build in mind and ran an RCA cable to that location for a passive sub. I put an outlet in as well so I can use a powered sub. I might end up using my Rythmik 12'' until the time comes for the DIY project. I should be able to stack at least 2 18'' subs.

Finished pictures to follow.....


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