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post #1 of 582 Old 03-05-2012, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished!  Installing rest of AV gear/automation and first movie watched!

2013

 

 

 

 

 

 

December:   Slide out media rack done, Projector shelf done, AV gear installation 

November:   Electrical finished, final painting done, seats and screen, lots of shelving

October:       Carpet installation, Rest of basement completed, Lots of work on doors 

September:  Fabric Frames and lots of painting

August:        HVAC Return and Doors

July:           Communicating door vestibule, electrical, pull out media storage

June:          Subfloor, Stage, Riser, Projection room

May:           Clips, Channel, osb, dw, gg, 

April:           Joist muffler completed

March:         Subfloor treated with double drywall and green glue

                   4 20 amp circuits added to basement

February:     Hired new contractors to help on weekends

                   Ordered lots of building materials

2012

November:   Lots of demo

                   Completed decoupling of walls

October:      Soundproofing materials delivered

September:  Flood!!!!!!

                   Wall taken down again

August:       Decision made to contact thesoundproofingcompany and do it right the first time 

July:           JTR Orbit Shifter delivered

                  Wall put up to enclose room

June:          AVS Pro Theater Layout Service from the Erskine Group via Shawn Byrne delivered

 

First dedicated room with a front projector! I am utilizing the room layout service from the Erskine Group and started the process on 3-20-12.  

 

Soundproofing:

Walls

clips and channel on ceiling

clips and channel on rear wall that is connected to stairwell wall.

existing walls were naturally decoupled from the foundation

walls that were built used staggered stud approach

all walls attached to ceiling joists using IB3's

Floor

3/8'' serenity mat

3/4'' plywood

HVAC

joist mufflers for supplies

return muffler to be made (done)

Doors

Zero International Auto door bottoms (best seals)

Zero International door seals

Solid core 1 3/4'' then added layer of 3/4" mdf with green glue between

Double door system as well with another solid core door and DIY seals

 

Lighting

12 cans in soffits inside of shell

rope light around soffit perimeter

4 step lights

4 Sconces

 

Automation

Insteon dimmers for a total of 5 zones

ISY 994i

iRule on iPad 2

Global Cache 100-12

 

Dimensions:
Width 15'
Length 19' to rear wall.  There will be a small "projector booth" between the HT room and the storage area behind which will house my AV gear.
Ceilings 7'9"

 

Here is a basic version of the plans from the layout service. My plans are now changed slightly from this layout.  I will be making the length of the room 19' which means the small 3.5'x9' space in the back of the room where the projector is will be closed off making a "projector booth and equipment closet".  Several reasons:  the column in the back part of that space looked funny just hanging out in the middle of nowhere, I wanted to put the projector outside of the room for heat and noise and did not want to couple it to the ceiling bc the kitchen and 3 little boys are directly overhead.  This also allows me to do my AV rack outside the room and not worry about the noise, heat, or light pollution.

 

Click in pictures to enlarge.

 

 

1000

 

1000

 

1000

 

 

Video
Here is a video that will probably help to give a better idea of the space I have to work with.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXnbZ...XLqSZoD5cbKHgo


Picture of the front wall where screen will be.

 

Here is a similar angle after the flood and some demo.

 

 

 

 

Picture from the front of the room looking at the stairwell and the space where the wall will go.

 

Same angle post demo.

 

 


Picture of the back of the room showing entrance to the unfinished storage area where the equipment rack will be.

 

Same angle post demo.

 

 

 

Equipment List:

Projector- JVC RS45
Speakers- Klipsch RF83, RC64,

   -Surounds. Triad in wall Bronze   
Amplifier- Sherbourn PA 7-350
Receiver- Denon 4311
Sub- JTR Orbit Shifter.  I also have a Rythmik F12SE for use as a balancing sub
Remote- iRule

Rack is MA ERK series

Screen-

9 ft wide (110")

2.35:1
EN4K with Seymour AV frame. 

Purchased the masking panels for 1.78:1 content.  


I am ceiling ht limited in this room anyway and there is a support beam and a bit of HVAC duct in the front that drops down about 9'' from the ceiling. 

Seating-
Front row is 3 Berkline Director leather theater recliners (Electric recline!) at around 9.5 ft from the screen.

Second row is a large 3 seat Natuzzi leather couch with recliners on each end along with a matching Natuzzi leather reclining chair so it seats 4 adults comfortably.   

Sound Treatments-
As prescribed in the avs layout.  

Quest Perfsorb at first reflection points.  

The rest is OC 705 DIY panels.  Several 2 inch absorption panels and several diffusion panels.  Treatment on all of front wall is OC Select Sound Black.  

Riser made into bass trap.    

Stage-
I am copying the Sunset Cinema stage. 1 ft tall and approx 5 ft deep.  Filled with sand.  Do what I can to stop the Orbit Shifter from shaking the screen (accomplished).  


Projector Shelf
Would like to avoid a ceiling mount because of little feet in the kitchen above shaking the projector. I mounted a shelf to the walls with IB3 clips for decoupling and placed serenity matt on top of the shelf as well and no shaking so far.

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post #2 of 582 Old 03-05-2012, 05:26 PM
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First you have to introduce us to the Golden.

High Desert Theater - work in progress
Building Bass - Subs

Surrounds - Easy as Pi

Storage - unRAID unDELL

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post #3 of 582 Old 03-05-2012, 06:07 PM
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Screen- CIH? Around 49'' tall and 115'' wide. May be a DIY solution. Contemplating AT but I do not want to sacrifice image quality.
http://seymourav.com/ makes woven AT fabric that's available to the DIY'er. I tried a sample with my JVC RS2 and thought it looked excellent. My theater is about 9' eyeball to screen, and on some scenes I could just start to see the weave. I'm using cheap blackout fabric now but do plan to build a new screen with Seymour fabric.


I have no tolerance for sparkles in bright scenes so I do not know if a gain screen is an option for me.
The RS45 should be plenty bright without a gain screen since you have good light control. I'd recommend dark colors for the room.


Masking- DIY. Panels, curtains, still researching. Would prefer to do an infinitely variable screen with manual masking utilizing curtain products and velveteen or AT fabric if I go that route.
Infinitely variable is good. I can go from 1.66 (Yellow Submarine) to 2.55 (It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad, World). My masking is just fixed panels for now - changing that to automated when I build the new screen.


Somewhat concerned about front stage if center is below screen.
Have you considered trading your center channel for another L/R? Three identical front speakers is a good thing.


Seating distance concerns and squeezing in a second row. Planning on putting the screen approx 3' from the front wall and building a false wall. I would like to fit 3-4 seats around 12' from the screen. May move the seating up a bit to fit another 3-4 folding theater chairs on the stairwell wall which is 19' from the front wall.
Have you considered a bar for the back row?

Considering a short stage but the hvac duct eats into my height. At the very least I could layer a few sheets of mdf in front of the screen with a curve. Wrap it in velvet to keep reflections from hitting my beige carpet and call it good.
BIG did something like this I think. Might have been on his ceiling.

Projector Stand. Would like to avoid a ceiling mount because of little feet in the kitchen above shaking the projector. Maybe build a custom shelf that would be flush with the stairwell. Throw distance would be 16' after the 3' false wall is factored in.
That's what I did. Way too much floor bounce to mount a projector on my ceiling too. Also, I exactly aligned the centerline of the lens with the center of the screen (same distance off the floor) so I can zoom the image and not have to use lens shift. On my RS2 the lens shift is manual and not very user friendly. I'm not familiar with all the features of the RS45, so that might not be necessary.

High Desert Theater - work in progress
Building Bass - Subs

Surrounds - Easy as Pi

Storage - unRAID unDELL

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post #4 of 582 Old 03-05-2012, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Petew,

Put another picture on the first post that got missed the first time.

That golden is named Konza after the Konza prairie in the Flint Hills of Kansas. My wife likes to say that he is a Konza Prairie Dog! I have another golden named Zoey and she is my best friend with four legs. I saw in your thread that you also have 2 goldens.

Your theater is looking good and I may do the same technique as your removable masking panels.

I am also considering using MFW-15 drivers in a DIY build. Thinking of 4 dual opposed cabs from ED with the Seaton/Motor City Modified Amplifiers.

I think the weave on the AT screen would bother me. Can you see the weave at 11 feet?

The RS45 does have 3 lens memory settings so I would not have to manual shift.

The bar for the back row would be cool but I don't think I will have the room.



If I do an AT screen I can see myself getting another RF-83 and selling the RC-64.
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post #5 of 582 Old 03-08-2012, 10:29 AM
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Great looking space to work with!! I am going to paste a link to here in my thread over in subwoofers.

I've never done anything like this so I don't have much input for you, but I'll be watching this thread and look forward to coming over to see the finished product!

BTW, I'm going to go ahead and mail a check to Mark for another Submersive which is supposed to be shipped on the 19th so if you want to wait a bit to come over so you can compare dual Submersives to a single that's cool or you could come over before to hear what one Submersive sounds like in my 3300 cu ft room, whatever works for you.
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post #6 of 582 Old 03-08-2012, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

If I do an AT screen I can see myself getting another RF-83 and selling the RC-64.

This is what I am doing. I am a big fan of Klipsch!
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post #7 of 582 Old 03-08-2012, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Great looking space to work with!! I am going to paste a link to here in my thread over in subwoofers.

I've never done anything like this so I don't have much input for you, but I'll be watching this thread and look forward to coming over to see the finished product!

BTW, I'm going to go ahead and mail a check to Mark for another Submersive which is supposed to be shipped on the 19th so if you want to wait a bit to come over so you can compare dual Submersives to a single that's cool or you could come over before to hear what one Submersive sounds like in my 3300 cu ft room, whatever works for you.

Carp,

Like I said in the subwoofer thread I will have to take a listen when you get a twin for the SubM. For those in this thread you might be interested to know that I have 8 month old twin boys and one of the reasons for doing a dedicated room was to keep them out of it and the destruction down to a minimum. If anyone has tips please share them with me. I am hoping to put most of the equipment in the unfinished storage area behind the room and try to keep the door to the theater room locked from the outside.

What would be more destructive? Twin boys or twin JTR Orbit Shifters?
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post #8 of 582 Old 03-08-2012, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWicked View Post

This is what I am doing. I am a big fan of Klipsch!

I fell in love with the "live" sound a few years back and I think the dynamics of the RF-83's are perfect for home theater use. Also a reasonably priced speaker that is driven to outrageous levels with my Emotiva XPA-5.

I would love more help while I am in the planning stages and anything I can do to elicit more responses.....you guys just name it. More pictures? More video? Better diagrams? More direct questions from me? Cuz I gottem

I was expecting a lot more "Hey stupid! You are doing it wrong. Let me tell you how you should be doing it." Honestly I would like to know if I am making any big mistakes before I go do something soon like put a great big wall up.
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post #9 of 582 Old 03-09-2012, 06:22 AM
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My advice is more for keeping the kid's destruction to a minimum.

I "trained" or girls from very, very, young not to go anywhere near the front of the room when they were in the basement. This training started as soon as they could start crawling.

It worked very well, as they got a little older (toddler age) they just knew to never go towards the tv, speakers, components, etc.

They are 3 and 6 now, and even if I have a subwoofer in the back of the room they don't touch it.

Now, contrast that to when we have friends over for a movie. Their toddler kids are constantly wanting to go to the screen and touch it, it really is exactly like a bug zapper on the front porch they just can't stop moving towards it.

Most of my friends "baby proofed" their houses so that kids can touch whatever they want and all the breakable or expensive stuff has been put away. So, the kids are used to touching anything and everything they want. It's so much better to teach the kids what they can and can't touch.

I know this wasn't the kind of advice you're looking for, but that's all I got!!
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post #10 of 582 Old 03-09-2012, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Carp, I like that idea. We will have to do that with the Kuro/Def Tech STS's on the main floor. I will also try it with the dedicated HT.....but I'm still locking the dang door!

Case in point. I started reading a book on raising boys. It is titled Wild Things: the art of nurturing boys. The author has many children including twin boys. Here is an excerpt that especially terrifies me every time I look at my beautiful JVC RS-45.

"Parenting my daughter has been a relatively safe and peaceful journey. Her brothers on the other hand, are completely different beasts. I don't remember how many months old they were before they learned to climb out of their cribs; I just remember waking to the sound of a loud thud followed by screaming. I don't remember which of my twins first pulled the blinds off the wall; I just know I've replaced the brackets on several occasions. I've lost count of how many times they've broken the toilet seat by slamming it down or yanking it off the screws. (I kid you not.) One of my boys had been in preschool only for a short time before the school called to say that he had bashed his head open and would likely need stitches.
I've replaced doorknobs, mirrors, cabinet hardware, clocks, lamps, stereos, televisions, picture frames, bath faucets, consoles, refrigerator doors, kitchen appliances, dishes, glassware, bath towels, couches, ottomans, and chairs, and I've had the walls repainted....all before they turned five."

But, in all seriousness I am with you on kids having boundaries instead of baby proofing EVERYTHING and letting them run wild.

Just thought of something. If I end up getting twin Seaton Submersive HP's (and I would blame you for that) I could name the subs Double Trouble (which is what I sometimes call my boys). For that matter I could name the theater Double Trouble. I still have not come up with a name that I think will stick.
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post #11 of 582 Old 03-13-2012, 06:58 PM
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jedimastergrant,

unfortunately I don't have much opinion on your setup either. I think with the 3 foot space I would use an AT screen, and from what I've read - silver spandex is a good place to start. That'd be a fantastic place to put the subs in all likelyhood and a FULL size projector screen with a hidden center channel would be awesome!

Plan on painting your room dark - it just works so much better with projectors.

I know this isn't the direction you had in mind, but I've read of a couple guys using Danley DTS-10's laid flat as risers to put their theater chairs on. I just can't really think I've heard a cooler plan. All of the tactile vibration down to 10hz would be felt perfectly for your primary row of seating -- and just like the AT screen idea- - your guests would have no idea where the bass was coming from!

Luke Kamp, another local KC guy might be a good person to ask some ideas from. He has recently done some sound treatment on his room and thinks the world of it!

I'd be happy to come over and help you get dialed in on the subs with the omnimic (either mine -- or the one you plan to purchase) when that time comes.

One thing I would advise on is just speaker placement. Put all your wires in wall, but a custom plate from monoprice --- make it look nice.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
Archaea's Theatre Room
2011 KC Sub Shootout
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My Subwoofer Recommendations by Pricepoint
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post #12 of 582 Old 03-14-2012, 01:14 PM
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Boys are tougher at that age for sure, I had a good laugh (in a frightened way) at that quote.

It's easy now, but in a few years Archaea and I will be paying the price with teenage girls to deal with...

Luke said you were coming over to his place, did you go yet? Did he run the subs flat or did he crank 'em up a bit for you? I love how his subs sound in his room back when he was running them hot, I haven't been over there since he put in his panels.

When are you going to get started on the room/wall and are you closer to making your mind up on subs?

I'm surprised there isn't more help for you, I guess we are spoiled by the Subwoofer section.
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post #13 of 582 Old 03-15-2012, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I like the idea of using a DTS-10 as a riser as well. I even know someone who is selling 2 of them and I think I can fit them in side by side. I wonder if I could get the horn to integrate well with multiple sealed boxes? Or an Orbit Shifter since it is also a horn if I go that route? I am worried about being able to localize the sound a little bit.

I will look into the monoprice plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

jedimastergrant,

unfortunately I don't have much opinion on your setup either. I think with the 3 foot space I would use an AT screen, and from what I've read - silver spandex is a good place to start. That'd be a fantastic place to put the subs in all likelyhood and a FULL size projector screen with a hidden center channel would be awesome!

Plan on painting your room dark - it just works so much better with projectors.

I know this isn't the direction you had in mind, but I've read of a couple guys using Danley DTS-10's laid flat as risers to put their theater chairs on. I just can't really think I've heard a cooler plan. All of the tactile vibration down to 10hz would be felt perfectly for your primary row of seating -- and just like the AT screen idea- - your guests would have no idea where the bass was coming from!

Luke Kamp, another local KC guy might be a good person to ask some ideas from. He has recently done some sound treatment on his room and thinks the world of it!

I'd be happy to come over and help you get dialed in on the subs with the omnimic (either mine -- or the one you plan to purchase) when that time comes.

One thing I would advise on is just speaker placement. Put all your wires in wall, but a custom plate from monoprice --- make it look nice.

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post #14 of 582 Old 03-15-2012, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I am hoping to go to Luke's this weekend. I want to look at his Stewart screen and the sound treatments too.

I had a carpenter come over a few days ago and I showed him some of the projects that I may delegate to him and he is going to come back to me with some quotes. I will need the wall, false wall, masking system, projector shelves, and riser. Possible projects include a soffit with a star ceiling, stage, and columns.

I am getting closer to the sub decision. I think the choices I have it down to will all be very good. The SubM are of course still in the mix.

I want to get started on the wall soon but I also want to make sure I have a cohesive plan in place before we start swinging hammers. And I am getting closer. There are just so many variables and I have a tendency to scrutinize the minutia. So I may need a kick in the A$$.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Boys are tougher at that age for sure, I had a good laugh (in a frightened way) at that quote.

It's easy now, but in a few years Archaea and I will be paying the price with teenage girls to deal with...

Luke said you were coming over to his place, did you go yet? Did he run the subs flat or did he crank 'em up a bit for you? I love how his subs sound in his room back when he was running them hot, I haven't been over there since he put in his panels.

When are you going to get started on the room/wall and are you closer to making your mind up on subs?

I'm surprised there isn't more help for you, I guess we are spoiled by the Subwoofer section.

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post #15 of 582 Old 03-15-2012, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I would appreciate anyone's feedback on the room layout service that is offered from AVS. Do you think my room would specifically benefit from this service. Keeping in mind that my budget is modest compared to most in this thread. Am I making huge mistakes that can only be corrected with that kind of service?
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post #16 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 12:44 PM
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Are putting the wall completely along the left side and having the only entrance to the theater through the rear doors?
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post #17 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 01:11 PM
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It's hard to go wrong with the pro-layout service. You've got a really nice space to work with, and getting the room right is the most important aspect. So the cost of the service is likely a drop in the bucket compared to some of the items that can be upgraded later.

The lack of responses may be due to the sketches. I remember looking at your thread a while back, and I got a little confused by the drawings and went to look at some of the other threads (sorry, I've got a touch of ADD). It might help to add some dimensions to your drawings. You can even draw them on a piece of paper, and label them and post pictures of that rather than using Sketchup if that's quicker for you. BIG is famous for his hand drawn pictures (among other things).

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #18 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 03:05 PM
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Sorry if I missed it, but what is the dimension from the front wall (where the screen is going) to the front of the duct in the ceiling? I'm wondering if you can't mount the screen to the front of it, that way you can put it as high as you like. With an AT screen, you would just need to make sure you painted the beam a flat black (Disney's Mouse Ears is a popular choice).

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #19 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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My plan was to include a door in the wall I will build because the area behind the theater is an unfinished storage area. I would need to make another entrance into that room from another room so I don't think it is worth it. I am planning on putting my AV equipment in that unfinished storage area. There are unused 15 amp and 20 amp lines in there just begging for amplifiers.

I could use some help in deciding if I should put the wall flush with the partial wall already built or put it back another foot into the kids play area to create a little more space for seating. Any acoustical problems there with the wall being staggered that way? It might mean the difference between fitting 3 vs 4 chairs in the primary seating area and 4 vs 5 in the back row that will probably be right up against the wall and be comprised of narrow theater folding seats.

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Are putting the wall completely along the left side and having the only entrance to the theater through the rear doors?

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post #20 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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JPA,

I took your advice and updated my first post with a hand drawing. You are right the sketch ups were just confusing.


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It's hard to go wrong with the pro-layout service. You've got a really nice space to work with, and getting the room right is the most important aspect. So the cost of the service is likely a drop in the bucket compared to some of the items that can be upgraded later.

The lack of responses may be due to the sketches. I remember looking at your thread a while back, and I got a little confused by the drawings and went to look at some of the other threads (sorry, I've got a touch of ADD). It might help to add some dimensions to your drawings. You can even draw them on a piece of paper, and label them and post pictures of that rather than using Sketchup if that's quicker for you. BIG is famous for his hand drawn pictures (among other things).

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post #21 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I just updated my drawing to show where the HVAC ducts are located. The front duct is 6.5 ft from the front wall and my false wall might be built right in front of the can lights which are 38" from the front wall.

I was planning to either paint the duct flat black just as you suggested or possibly even cover it in black velvet. I am thinking about putting in a soffit or large trim work around the area in between the 2 ducts and place black lights in there to illuminate a potential painted star ceiling. I really like the work done by Night Sky Murals.

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Sorry if I missed it, but what is the dimension from the front wall (where the screen is going) to the front of the duct in the ceiling? I'm wondering if you can't mount the screen to the front of it, that way you can put it as high as you like. With an AT screen, you would just need to make sure you painted the beam a flat black (Disney's Mouse Ears is a popular choice).

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post #22 of 582 Old 03-19-2012, 04:28 PM
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I know you said that you are on a tight budget, but have you considered having the duct moved? I don't know that it will necessarily cause you any issues, but it makes for a cleaner looking ceiling.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #23 of 582 Old 03-20-2012, 07:14 AM
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And another question.

Did you state what your ceiling height is?

Also, you mention that you are concerned about using an AT screen due to image quality. Have you considered getting a sample of some of the popular DIY fabrics and just taping them to the wall and projecting on them. You can move to your favorite seating position and see if you can see the weave or not. The AT screens certainly seem to be the most popular ATM as it lets you put the center behind the screen at ear height.

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post #24 of 582 Old 03-20-2012, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

And another question.

Did you state what your ceiling height is?

Also, you mention that you are concerned about using an AT screen due to image quality. Have you considered getting a sample of some of the popular DIY fabrics and just taping them to the wall and projecting on them. You can move to your favorite seating position and see if you can see the weave or not. The AT screens certainly seem to be the most popular ATM as it lets you put the center behind the screen at ear height.

If I did not state it earlier I will fix it. The ceiling ht is 7 ft 9 in.

I will ask about moving the vent. That would also give me a shot at maybe decreasing some of the noise created by the ducts.

I am leaning toward an AT screen and I will definitely get samples just as you suggested to check for weave or microperf. I am also extremely sensitive to sparkles and even the sheen present on quite a few screens. I basically have zero tolerance for it. I wish it wasn't so but it is just impossibly distracting for me.
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post #25 of 582 Old 03-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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I think your side wall on the left of the room and proposed door locations look good. The door may need to be moved back a little so that the first reflection points from the speakers to any of the listening positions are in front of the door so they can be treated.

You should consider removing the rear door and walling it off completely. This will help to seal the room better and allow for rear absorption/diffusion. The bass can also rattle doors and glass or cause resonance.

It looks like the rack could actually be mounted in the stairwell area and would be easily accessed from the back of the room. You could also cut an access panel in the storage room to the stairwell for access to the rear of the rack. The access panel could have weatherstripping around the edges and be completely sealed up when screwed on.

Have you used a projector calculator to make sure the projector can be mounted so the image will clear the rear HVAC duct and still hit the screen properly?
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post #26 of 582 Old 03-21-2012, 02:47 PM
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For those in this thread you might be interested to know that I have 8 month old twin boys and one of the reasons for doing a dedicated room was to keep them out of it and the destruction down to a minimum. If anyone has tips please share them with me.

Best parenting book EVER:



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I would appreciate anyone's feedback on the room layout service that is offered from AVS.

It seems like everyone who has used the service has raved about it. I saw a post the other day that made a lot of sense to me: You can easily upgrade equipment, but you'll probably only have one chance to get the room right.

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post #27 of 582 Old 03-21-2012, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I just started the layout service with the Erskine Group so now everything is subject to change.

I think you are right about the proposed door location needing to be treated. Can't I just place treatments on the door itself if a treatment needs to go there? Concerns that involve construction of walls etc are not included in this service so I will have to do the best I can. The door kinda needs to go there if I want to put 3-4 seats in the primary row and have enough space to go through the door without running right into the seats.

I will consider removing the doors in the back. My first plan was to put the AV rack under the stairwell just as you suggested. If not then I will have to do major rattle control and this may be frustrating. If I eliminate the doors then I will have to make another entrance to the storage area from another room and it all just adds up but we will see how things turn out.

As far as rear absorption/diffusion is concerned I was thinking about putting built in shelving in the back and I could put treatments on that. On the other hand I have become interested in building a small 2 person bar back there and moving my projector location to underneath the stairwell after cutting out a place for it to peek through.

The image from the projector will get through but what might get tight is the height of the people sitting on the riser in the back of the room especially when viewing 16:9 content. I will experiment.

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I think your side wall on the left of the room and proposed door locations look good. The door may need to be moved back a little so that the first reflection points from the speakers to any of the listening positions are in front of the door so they can be treated.

You should consider removing the rear door and walling it off completely. This will help to seal the room better and allow for rear absorption/diffusion. The bass can also rattle doors and glass or cause resonance.

It looks like the rack could actually be mounted in the stairwell area and would be easily accessed from the back of the room. You could also cut an access panel in the storage room to the stairwell for access to the rear of the rack. The access panel could have weatherstripping around the edges and be completely sealed up when screwed on.

Have you used a projector calculator to make sure the projector can be mounted so the image will clear the rear HVAC duct and still hit the screen properly?

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post #28 of 582 Old 03-27-2012, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Carpenter coming today to frame wall that will close off HT. Planning to do a staggered stud wall flush with the existing wall. Will plan for an exterior door with a threshold and weather stripping for some sound proofing. Will leave the HT side without drywall for now to run conduit and possibly electrical.

What else should I consider?
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post #29 of 582 Old 03-28-2012, 07:06 AM
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Did you get the wall framed yesterday? If so, you are late on the pics.
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post #30 of 582 Old 03-28-2012, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post

Did you get the wall framed yesterday? If so, you are late on the pics.

Dang. Keep'n me honest. Here ya go!

The space sure feels different with the wall in place.



We left the HT side without drywall for now just in case we can't fish line through the other side like we hope.

I am planning on an exterior solid door with weatherstripping and threshold for sound. Or maybe an older solid antique door that we can modify with weatherstripping and threshold. Any suggestions?
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