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post #31 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 09:28 AM
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Looking good. Did you find the nailor bar diffusers? Are those the ones you're going with?
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post #32 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. It's good to see progress.

My local HVAC guys found them and are getting a quote. I will wait to see what they come in at before making a decision. After seeing what damelon and Big did with the grills in damelon's soffits, I may go that route. All depends on the $ for the Nailors...
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post #33 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, so I'm a bit frustrated today. The plan was to get the front soffit framed in, get the hat channel from Menards and get the clips and channel up today. So I get to Menards and find the channel. Looks like what I need, so I load up the cart. Hmmm, better check the width first. It's 2-3/4" instead of 2-1/2". Crap. The manual says DO NOT USE 2-3/4" WIDE CHANNEL. 2-3/4" x 7/8".

So I explore a little more, and they have 2-1/2" wide, but the "hat" is only 1/2" high instead of 7/8". 2-1/2" x 1/2". I brought one of them home, and it looks like it would work. Just would need to use shorter screws when attaching the drywall so I don't accidentally hit a stud.

Any thoughts on using the shorter "hat", or do you think it will be fine?
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post #34 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 11:13 AM
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I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the 1/2" hat would be fine. You would have to use a pretty long screw to get through the drywall plus the 1/2" profile of the hat and then on into the clip or the stud.

Just my 2 cents worth...
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post #35 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Nick. That's what I'm thinking, but it's always good to get confirmation/feedback.
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post #36 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 12:25 PM
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I am not 100% sure on this but I agree with Nick. If it is the correct width and the metal is the correct thickness then I'd think you'd be fine. I was not aware that there was a 1/2" version. I'd send Ted White a quick pm just to be sure though. You wouldn't want to get everything up only to realize that the channel is wrong.

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post #37 of 534 Old 04-01-2012, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, that would suck big time. Putting up the clips will keep me busy most of the day anyway. All other dimensions are what they should be. I'll send a note to Ted and John just to be sure. Thanks!
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post #38 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the clips up on 4 of the 5 walls (yes, I'm counting the little angle as a wall), and just have one wall and the ceiling left. I bought a lazer level to help with marking the locations, and that helps a lot. Drywall lift was also delivered this weekend. That thing is bigger than I thought, and I can't wait to put it to use!
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post #39 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I heard back from Ted, and the 1/2" high channel is a no go. Out of spec, and no data to tell if it would work correctly. On the upside, the 2-3/4" wide channel can be used! According to Ted, that is now the standard that almost all of the manufacturers are using. More importantly, the clip manufacturers have all given the OK for 2-3/4" channel to be used in their clips. I know where I'm headed over lunch today...
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post #40 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 12:31 PM
 
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Lowes or Home Depot has a 4" by 14" steel louvered floor register (non-shutterable) for only like $2 a pop. I bought several white ones and painted them black.
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post #41 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 12:53 PM
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I am glad that you got a definitive answer from Ted prior to installing the 1/2" track and then having to decide if you wanted to take the track back out!
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post #42 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

I heard back from Ted, and the 1/2" high channel is a no go. Out of spec, and no data to tell if it would work correctly. On the upside, the 2-3/4" wide channel can be used! According to Ted, that is now the standard that almost all of the manufacturers are using. More importantly, the clip manufacturers have all given the OK for 2-3/4" channel to be used in their clips. I know where I'm headed over lunch today...

This is why we love Ted!

I guess it's a good thing that you didn't go with the 1/2". I'm glad that you got it all figured out.

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post #43 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Patience is definitely a virtue. I was a bit over-ambitious yesterday anyway...
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post #44 of 534 Old 04-02-2012, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

Lowes or Home Depot has a 4" by 14" steel louvered floor register (non-shutterable) for only like $2 a pop. I bought several white ones and painted them black.

Yep, I've decided that's the way I'm going to go too. Got the quote back for a similar bar diffuser today. I can definitely put the savings to better use.
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post #45 of 534 Old 04-03-2012, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Yep, I've decided that's the way I'm going to go too. Got the quote back for a similar bar diffuser today. I can definitely put the savings to better use.

You got a quote on the nailor bar diffusors? Do you mind sharing how much? Any concerns on the noise generated by the cheaper HD/Lowes variety?
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post #46 of 534 Old 04-03-2012, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

You got a quote on the nailor bar diffusors? Do you mind sharing how much? Any concerns on the noise generated by the cheaper HD/Lowes variety?

It was actually a different brand, Tuttle and Bailey. They looked exactly the same to me from the pics on their site. I don't want to give the quote, but lets just say I'll be saving around $240 by going with Plan B. The deeper I get into this project, the more cost conscious I am becoming. And I'm not concerned at all on any noise issues.
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post #47 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Starting to look at soffit lighting. Has anyone used these or something similar?

Airtight IC Housing



Would the airtight nature of these be a benefit, or am I just getting sucked in by marketing (again)?
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post #48 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 12:10 PM
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I assume that the soffits will be built after the room is drywalled?

I'd recommend these lights:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WJ...dir_mdp_mobile

You cut a hole in the drywall on the soffit and then just pop them in. They're cheap, dimmable and come with an MR16 lamp. The trim can be spray painted.

They sell them at Home Depot and Lowes (well they do at mine at least).

I've seen them used in many theaters (bacon race comes to mind) and I used some in the ceiling of my theater.

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post #49 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 12:29 PM
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I used can lights like that in my basement, but not in the theater area. I dont think them being 'airtight' would be of any benefit (or detriment) to you, as it looks to me like you are doing a DD+GG shell, then adding the soffit/lights later. I would however, be careful if you do decide to install them, as it looks like the sliding mechanisms would have a high likelyhood of vibrating during bass heavy scenes.
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post #50 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

I assume that the soffits will be built after the room is drywalled?

I'd recommend these lights:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WJ...dir_mdp_mobile

You cut a hole in the drywall on the soffit and then just pop them in. They're cheap, dimmable and come with an MR16 lamp. The trim can be spray painted.

They sell them at Home Depot and Lowes (well they do at mine at least).

I've seen them used in many theaters (bacon race comes to mind) and I used some in the ceiling of my theater.

The front soffit will be built prior to DW, rear and sides after. The thing that concerns me about the lights you reference is that they are 13" tall when fully assembled. My soffits will only be 9-3/4" tall. Other than that, they look to be a great solution.
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post #51 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

I used can lights like that in my basement, but not in the theater area. I dont think them being 'airtight' would be of any benefit (or detriment) to you, as it looks to me like you are doing a DD+GG shell, then adding the soffit/lights later. I would however, be careful if you do decide to install them, as it looks like the sliding mechanisms would have a high likelyhood of vibrating during bass heavy scenes.

Yeah, the vibration factor concerns me too. For some reason, I thought they might vibrate less than the ones that clip in to the DW. What lights are you using?
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post #52 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:16 PM
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In the theater I am using 3 small 3" can lights (remodel type, from HD) for the front screen wash. The only other lights I have planned are the 6 wall sconces and the one step light for the riser.

Everything feelt like it snapped in pretty tightly when I installed my small cans, but because I used the remodel mounting method, IF this is a rattle, I will be able to pull out the light to fix it. You would be pretty limited with the new construction lights.

One thing I had read somewhere on this site was to mount the lights, then wrap any loose parts tightly in tape to prevent rattles. I think if you were diligent when installing them, you should be okay.
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post #53 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post


The front soffit will be built prior to DW, rear and sides after. The thing that concerns me about the lights you reference is that they are 13" tall when fully assembled. My soffits will only be 9-3/4" tall. Other than that, they look to be a great solution.

The ones that I used were from Home Depot. They have the junction box off to the side instead of on top like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00766...dir_mdp_mobile

They were the smaller 3" housing though and came with the trim and bulb. I can't find a link to them right now though to tell you the exact height (on my phone at the moment).

EDIT: They were these ones, though mine weren't labeled as "spots". It looks like they are about 7" tall.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...5f%2d202199102

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post #54 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

In the theater I am using 3 small 3" can lights (remodel type, from HD) for the front screen wash. The only other lights I have planned are the 6 wall sconces and the one step light for the riser.

Everything feelt like it snapped in pretty tightly when I installed my small cans, but because I used the remodel mounting method, IF this is a rattle, I will be able to pull out the light to fix it. You would be pretty limited with the new construction lights.

One thing I had read somewhere on this site was to mount the lights, then wrap any loose parts tightly in tape to prevent rattles. I think if you were diligent when installing them, you should be okay.

Thanks Brian. Good point on being able to pull them back out for service.
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post #55 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

The ones that I used were from Home Depot. They have the junction box off to the side instead of on top like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00766...dir_mdp_mobile

They were the smaller 3" housing though and came with the trim and bulb. I can't find a link to them right now though to tell you the exact height (on my phone at the moment).

EDIT: They were these ones, though mine weren't labeled as "spots". It looks like they are about 7" tall.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...5f%2d202199102

Thanks for the link. Those should fit. Doesn't look like the ones on that link are IC rated, but I'm sure they have a model that is. I'll check them out next time I'm over there.

I've also been thinking about puck lights above the screen instead of recessed. Where did you get your pucks? Looks like they might be a good fit for me as well.
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post #56 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 02:26 PM
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I picked up the pucks at home depot as well. They are 20 watt xenons.

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post #57 of 534 Old 04-09-2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

I used can lights like that in my basement, but not in the theater area. I dont think them being 'airtight' would be of any benefit (or detriment) to you, as it looks to me like you are doing a DD+GG shell, then adding the soffit/lights later. I would however, be careful if you do decide to install them, as it looks like the sliding mechanisms would have a high likelyhood of vibrating during bass heavy scenes.

That's a good point. I used these exact cans in my room. I will tape the slides with electrical tape to prevent rattling before I rock them in. Hopefully that'll suffice!

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post #58 of 534 Old 04-11-2012, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Contemplating making a couple changes to the design, and would like some feedback. The plans call for constructing the front soffit prior to DW. I am still planning to do this. However, the plans also call for that front soffit to be 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, covered with 1/4" DW (all with GG between).

Couple of things concern me. Number one is the weight of that soffit. That is going to be one heavy mother. I understand wanting to put as much mass as possible between the sound and the ducts. Makes sense, but it seems like a bit of overkill to me, and I'm not real comfortable with that much weight. The second thing that concerns me is I would then cut two giant holes in that mass for the supplies that are directly open to the room. Planning to build custom duct boots similar to what Big and damelon did, but want feedback on an alternate plan.

The first part of the plan would be to move the location of the supplies from the front soffit to the side soffits.



Grilles would change from 4x36 to 6x24. Same overall area and I would still build the custom boots. The holes in the front soffit for the supplies would now be inside the side soffits, and not directly open to the room.

The second change would be the soffit construction itself. Instead of using 3/4"+3/4" MDF + 1/4" DW, I would use 3/4" MDF + 5/8" DW. Less overall mass, but also less weight which would make me feel a bit more relaxed. Also, I would be using 4 puck lights that would be recessed in the DW layer, but not in the MDF. Essentially I would be surface mounting them to the MDF and covering with the DW so the only penetrations would be small for the wires and sealed up.

Am I overthinking this? Is this a sane change to the original plan? Other thoughs?
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post #59 of 534 Old 04-12-2012, 06:27 AM
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If you got plans from Dennis, I would suggest asking him. He is a great resource and should be able to explain what effects any changes would make.

Here is my two cents. The weight difference between mdf and 5/8 sheetrock should add up too much. As long and you properly attach your framing, I dont think you will have any problem whatsoever.

As for mounting lights, it might be easier to cut a hole in the drywall, but a holesaw would make quick work of creating a space for your lights. I wouldnt use this as a reason to go with drywall.

The location of the vents are a harder question to answer, I dont know know what kind of current soundproofing the plans call for when installing your supply/return grilles/duct - so this would probably be a good question for Dennis.
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post #60 of 534 Old 04-12-2012, 06:31 AM
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3/4" MDF + 5/8" drywall is good mass

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