Deadline Has Been Set (and Re-Set...) Theater Build - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 534 Old 06-20-2012, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 235 View Post

No seriously....how do you plan on running conduit for projector cables if your drywall is already up?
I'm getting closer to finalizing my wiring plans now. Funny how something as simple as running cabling to a PJ can turn into a huge research project.......How do I avoid running AC and HDMI parallel, how do I keep HDMI run under 25' to maintain high-speed cable certification? where do I put conduit drops to allow for various PJ throw distances? how do I do this and minimize sound leaks? how do I do all this and maintain code? Ugh.

Any cabling that had to be run prior to DW was run. So far only 2 penetrations and they are on the front wall. 1 power and 1 conduit for front speakers and sub cabling. I have 50' of 2" diameter Carlon flexible conduit on the way for the projector cable runs. I will cut a hole in the DW up front near the supply that will end up being inside the false soffit on the side wall. Conduit goes through the hole to the projector location in the back of the room inside the yet to be built soffit the whole way. Same thing for power, minus the conduit. That way I only have 2 other small holes in the aquarium that will be sealed with acoustical caulk, and will also be inside a soffit of 3/4" MDF and DW with GG in between. All other room wiring will run inside this soffit to the columns, riser, lights, etc. Not concerned about AC and HDMI running parallel, as they will be about 10 inches apart, and will cross perpendicular where they have to. Also I wouldn't be concerned about the length of the HDMI run unless it is over 50'. Many on here have runs longer than 25' without issue. In a practical sense, there shouldn't be too many options for PJ throw distance that would require a different spot for the conduit to drop. You will know the general area the pj will be mounted. Run it close by to there, terminate the cables to a wall plate, and use shorter cables to go from the plate to the pj. Lots of different length options there. Of course this assumes you have finalized which side of the room the pj will be mounted. wink.gif

I can't help you with the code question. Things are different up in the great white nort. tongue.gif
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post #92 of 534 Old 06-20-2012, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I forgot a couple holes. 4 on the front soffit for puck lights, 1 on the front soffit for power outlet.
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post #93 of 534 Old 06-20-2012, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Not concerned about AC and HDMI running parallel, as they will be about 10 inches apart, and will cross perpendicular where they have to. Also I wouldn't be concerned about the length of the HDMI run unless it is over 50'. Many on here have runs longer than 25' without issue.
No concerns about long parallel runs only 10 inches apart? I've seen conflicting advice on this.
I have also seen warnings about running hdmi longer than 25' in high bandwidth situations (eg 3D, deep color, high fps).
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In a practical sense, there shouldn't be too many options for PJ throw distance that would require a different spot for the conduit to drop. You will know the general area the pj will be mounted. Run it close by to there, terminate the cables to a wall plate, and use shorter cables to go from the plate to the pj. Lots of different length options there. Of course this assumes you have finalized which side of the room the pj will be mounted.
Are you still leaning towards the panny 7000? Sounds likes you're running your PJ conduit to back soffit. Is that approximately the recommended throw distance in your situation?
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post #94 of 534 Old 06-21-2012, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 235 View Post

No concerns about long parallel runs only 10 inches apart? I've seen conflicting advice on this.
I have also seen warnings about running hdmi longer than 25' in high bandwidth situations (eg 3D, deep color, high fps).
The farther apart you have them, the less opportunity for interference. In my situation, they will be about 10-12 inches apart, and that is acceptable to me, and where they cross paths they certainly won't touch. I have seen the length warnings on HDMI as well. I have also seen practical applications that have no issues beyond that distance. My plate to plate run in the conduit will be around 25ish feet, about 5 feet from plate to equipment rack and another 1-3 foot cable from plate to projector. When it's all said and done the total run will be in the 30+' range. Again, this is acceptable to me based on my room needs and the successful results of others. Is it the ideal by the book solution? Not really. However, I have found that since I accepted the fact that my build will fall short of the "ideal" in certain places, I have much less stress about it. The analysis paralysis has passed and I am moving forward, which is a big deal for me as I tend to over analyze things (see my door handle color question for an example rolleyes.gif).
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Are you still leaning towards the panny 7000? Sounds likes you're running your PJ conduit to back soffit. Is that approximately the recommended throw distance in your situation?
Yep. The 7000 is still at the top of my list right now. That may change depending on what's available when I get to the pj stage, but I'm at 95% on that decision. I am running the conduit all the way to the back soffit. That puts me right around 18' for the throw distance which falls in the acceptable range for a 120" wide scope screen and the Panny 7000.
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post #95 of 534 Old 06-26-2012, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Was finally able to spend some time this weekend cleaning up the HT and organizing the DW scraps before moving on to the next steps. Also finished caulking around the top and bottom of the walls, corners, and both sides of the door frame. There were a couple other DW seams that I wasn't real happy with so I caulked those too. Smoothed it out real nice so there shouldn't be any issues with mudding/taping.

Looking from the riser area toward the screen wall. Added a 6" extension to the supplies so it would be easier to attach the flex duct when that time comes.
IMG_2763.jpg

IMG_2764.jpg

Entry door
IMG_2767.jpg

Looking from the screen wall toward the back wall.
IMG_2761.jpg

IMG_2760.jpg

Here is the waste pipe that I need to treat before building the angle wall in front of it.
IMG_2770.jpg

IMG_2769.jpg

You can see it is pretty close to the DW on the right side. I should be able to get the MLV between there, but if I can't it will be as close as it can get. Then, depending on how it sounds with water running through it, I may also wrap it in insulation before building the wall. I then plan to fill that cavity with insulation, and cover with the remaining sheet of 5/8" DW.

Here's a question for all you GG lovers out there. In the process of putting up the 2nd layer of DW, I inadvertantly got some GG on the flex duct and room side of the DW. Wiped it off as best as I could. Now there is a slightly sticky spot on the wall.
IMG_2766.jpg

Since the walls will be fabric covered, I'm tempted to just leave it. My thought is that trying to clean it off will do more damage to the DW paper. The only bad thing I can think of for leaving it, is that I'll know it's there...mad.gif

Thoughts?
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post #96 of 534 Old 06-26-2012, 06:20 PM
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Looking good!!

In regards to the GG stain, I had a few of those on my walls as well. Once I rolled the primer on they disappeared. I'd recommend doing a coat of primer even though you are doing fabric to seal the fresh drywall and mud (and cover any stains like that).

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post #97 of 534 Old 06-27-2012, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Austin. Figured I couldn't be the only one with a GG oops. I do plan on priming everything once the DW finishing is done. Hope you are enjoying your theater!
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post #98 of 534 Old 06-27-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Thanks Austin. Figured I couldn't be the only one with a GG oops. I do plan on priming everything once the DW finishing is done. Hope you are enjoying your theater!

No problem. Yeah, it's hard not to get any GG on the walls when you're trying to move big heavy sheets of drywall into place.

I'm having no trouble enjoying my theater. wink.gif

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post #99 of 534 Old 07-10-2012, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Made a little progress in the last 2 weeks, but not nearly as much as I wanted to. The MLV arrived and I was able to wrap the PVC waste line in the back corner. I then wrapped over the MLV with duct/pipe wrap cotton insulation.
IMG_2910.jpg

I hollered up to the Mrs. to flush the toilet. Couple minutes later, I had to ask her if she actually did it. Couldn't hear the water at all. Woohoo!

This weekend I stole some time to finish the corner.
IMG_2912.jpg

IMG_2916.jpg

Framing for cleanout access (really hope I never have to use that...)
IMG_2917.jpg

Then filled with insulation.
IMG_2920.jpg

And finally DW and caulked the seams.
IMG_2924.jpg

Now I have matching corners!!
IMG_2922.jpg
(well, except for that GG smudge...rolleyes.gif)

Door handle gets delivered today, so hopefully I can find time to get that installed this week and can stop using a shim to keep the door closed!
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post #100 of 534 Old 07-10-2012, 02:59 PM
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How do you anticipate the process going, should you need to access the clean-out. I have a similar pipe in my room I'm getting ready to build around. I was going to leave it a lot more accessible. Do you worry about a future owner having no idea where to find it?

Of course, I also have a supply with shut-off valves that I am sure I will need eventually.
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post #101 of 534 Old 07-10-2012, 03:12 PM
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Looking good, I am still in awe when looking at how cleanly you hung your drywall!
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I hollered up to the Mrs. to flush the toilet. Couple minutes later, I had to ask her if she actually did it. Couldn't hear the water at all. Woohoo!

So what do you think helped the most, the mass loaded vinyl, or the piping insulation? I have a radon mitigation system behind my screen wall that I can faintly hear if nothing is on in the room - just wondering if the pipe wrap would be sufficient to eliminate the noise.
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post #102 of 534 Old 07-10-2012, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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How do you anticipate the process going, should you need to access the clean-out. I have a similar pipe in my room I'm getting ready to build around. I was going to leave it a lot more accessible. Do you worry about a future owner having no idea where to find it?
Of course, I also have a supply with shut-off valves that I am sure I will need eventually.
The way I framed around it, I first thought I would cut around the opening and then screw a piece of plywood over the opening before finishing the walls. That would make it easy to locate in a hurry if I need to. Now I'm thinking I may just leave it as is. I have the location marked (will re-mark it after priming), and can cut around it if I ever need to. Then I would close it back up with a piece of plywood at that point. I'll have pictures, measurements and descriptions for future reference, so no concerns there.

I'm planning fabric covered walls with treatments behind them, so I will need to plan for that as well. May do a velcro access fabric panel back there and do a matching design on the other angle corner for symmetry.
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post #103 of 534 Old 07-10-2012, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking good, I am still in awe when looking at how cleanly you hung your drywall!
So what do you think helped the most, the mass loaded vinyl, or the piping insulation? I have a radon mitigation system behind my screen wall that I can faintly hear if nothing is on in the room - just wondering if the pipe wrap would be sufficient to eliminate the noise.
Thanks Brian. Can't give you a definite answer as I didn't think to test between layers. I got the recommendation (and MLV) from Ted White. He said the pipe insulation was optional, but I had some so did it anyway. Couldn't be happier with the results. I have one more waste line that I plan to treat on the other side of the wall in the mechanical room. That's one of the last things on my list though. Let me know if you're ever in the area and need some MLV. I only used probably 5 or so linear feet (so far) of the MLV off of a 25' roll. Shipping is a killer on this stuff and I know I won't use all of it.
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post #104 of 534 Old 07-11-2012, 07:15 AM
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Thanks Brian. Can't give you a definite answer as I didn't think to test between layers. I got the recommendation (and MLV) from Ted White. He said the pipe insulation was optional, but I had some so did it anyway. Couldn't be happier with the results. I have one more waste line that I plan to treat on the other side of the wall in the mechanical room. That's one of the last things on my list though. Let me know if you're ever in the area and need some MLV. I only used probably 5 or so linear feet (so far) of the MLV off of a 25' roll. Shipping is a killer on this stuff and I know I won't use all of it.

My brother lives in CR, so I make my way over there every once in a while. I will PM you the next time I plan to make a trip. Thanks.
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post #105 of 534 Old 07-31-2012, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow. I just noticed that my thread fell to page 2...OF MY SUBSCRIBED THREADS PAGE!! Totally unacceptable. Guess I need to do a bit more regular updating, but July has been kicking my butt and making it hard to get anything accomplished in the HT. I did make a little progress, but nothing too exciting.

Installed 2x2s around the perimeter of the walls for the soffits.
Primed and painted the door frame and door.
Installed the door hardware.
Trimmed out the family room side of the HT door.

Yeah, I know the door stuff didn't NEED to be done right now, but at least I don't have a shim keeping the door closed anymore. Plus it made me feel like I at least got SOMETHING accomplished amidst all the birthdays, anniversaries, baseball, basketball, football, etc.

I won't be able to work on the HT this weekend, so hopefully I can get a few things done during the week. Sorry for the lack of pics. Will try to post some later.
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post #106 of 534 Old 08-15-2012, 01:53 PM
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Thanksgiving will be here before you know it biggrin.gif Any progess to show?
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post #107 of 534 Old 08-17-2012, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Nothing really picture worthy. I ran the conduit for the HDMI cables to the projector. Double and triple checking my wiring needs to make sure I don't forget anything. In a bit of analysis paralysis at the moment, but plan to get as much done as possible this weekend. My goal is to finish the wiring, HVAC boots, and close up the soffits. That would make me a very happy camper.

Thanks for the motivation Brian. The calendar is moving waaaayyy to fast right now!
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post #108 of 534 Old 08-27-2012, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah, the best laid plans...

Didn't get as much done as I wanted to, but have a small update.

Decided not to make custom boots for returns and supplies. Went with 6"x10" for both. Held vent cover up to the boot when air was on. Very slight air movement noise with my head directly underneath it, but not enough to be a concern to me.
IMG_3316.jpg

IMG_3315.jpg

Returns now have their proper spacing.
IMG_3313.jpg

Had just enough time to get the MDF up on the entry wall soffit.
IMG_3317.jpg

IMG_3318.jpg

Now that I have the soffit sides started, the motivation is back. Too bad the available time doesn't match up with that. I have officially decided not to do sconces on the walls. I will be doing a light tray similar to Mario's Cinemar Theater. That should give me enough light for my purposes. Labor day weekend will not be very restful for me...
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post #109 of 534 Old 09-01-2012, 01:12 PM
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I was hoping for some more photos of the whisper clips and hat channels like in the corners between the two walls and ceiling. Kind of curious how the drywall all match up. How far did you keep ceiling drywall from the wall 2x4s and so forth?
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post #110 of 534 Old 09-03-2012, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I was hoping for some more photos of the whisper clips and hat channels like in the corners between the two walls and ceiling. Kind of curious how the drywall all match up. How far did you keep ceiling drywall from the wall 2x4s and so forth?
Sorry, didn't take any closeup shots of the corners prior to DW. You're seeing all the pics I have. I kept the channel and DW about 1/4 inch from the corners. Once you have a channel heading into the corner, then just make sure the next channel heading away from the first doesn't touch it. I had to install a couple extra vertical 2x4s in a couple corners to get the clips the right distance from the corners. Ted at the Soundproofing Company has a lot of great info on the clips and channel install, or let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to answer.
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post #111 of 534 Old 09-06-2012, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick update from the Labor Day weekend. Between football, confirmation, family and being under the weather, I didn't get as much done as I had hoped (seems to be a theme with me lately...). I did manage to get the rest of the soffit sides up, and start to run cables.

IMG_3349.jpg

IMG_3348.jpg

IMG_3353.jpg

IMG_3351.jpg

If this pace keeps up, I may have to Logan myself! rolleyes.gif
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post #112 of 534 Old 09-10-2012, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Two weekends in a row where I've accomplished something! Power and lighting cables have been run inside the soffit. Ran 3/4" conduit to speaker locations and sucked string through them with shop vac. Put DW up on outside of soffit.

IMG_3356.jpg

IMG_3358.jpg

IMG_3354.jpg

Next up is to fill soffit with insulation. Then close that sucker up and hire out the mud/tape!
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post #113 of 534 Old 09-11-2012, 04:21 PM
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why did you run conduit to speakers since they are already in soffit?
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post #114 of 534 Old 09-11-2012, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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why did you run conduit to speakers since they are already in soffit?
Little paranoid. Didn't want to get everything closed up and find out I had a bad cable, or have a cable go bad. This way I can just pull the old out and the new through if I ever need to. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy with some things. biggrin.gif
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post #115 of 534 Old 09-12-2012, 12:51 PM
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post #116 of 534 Old 09-12-2012, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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makes sense
Tell that to my wife, would ya? She thinks I'm completely nuts!
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post #117 of 534 Old 09-12-2012, 04:22 PM
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I am sure I will hear the same thing next year when I start my build
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post #118 of 534 Old 09-14-2012, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd like your opinion on my color plans. I have mentioned before that my plan for the room is to be black and gold (Iowa Hawkeyes/Pittsburgh Steelers). The GOM sample that is closest to the gold I am going for called Sunshine.

GOM-Sunshine.jpg

I'm curious to others opinions of using such a bright color in a HT. Is it going to have an impact on the room during a movie, or am I overthinking? Also, since I am basing more and more of the aesthetics off of Mario's masterpiece, I thought I would "borrow" a pic of his and see what my colors might look like. My photoshop skills aren't the best, so keep the laughter to a minimum please...

cinehawk.jpg

Couldn't figure out a good way to replace the red led glow with a gold one, but you get the picture. Of course mine isn't as wide or deep, and the craftsmanship won't come close, but it's something to shoot for.

Thoughts?
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post #119 of 534 Old 09-15-2012, 03:42 PM
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that would work best with some Steelers items up on the panels
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post #120 of 534 Old 09-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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If you are set on using this color, I would use more black than the yellow. (like the helmet in your avatar). Just my opinion.
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