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post #1 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Well as a long time lurker, I have finally decided to start on a HT in the basement. What really set my build in motion was my wife telling me to finish off half of the basement for a family room. If I was gonna finish half of the basment for the kid, I figured I could have the other half for my theater

A little back story on the house. I am 30 now and will prolly live in this house till im 60. The house is located on the edge of my gravel pit. I litterly live 50 feet from where I work. The house was built in the early 80's by the previous owners of the gravel pit who retired. What they did to the basment was gift to an HT enthusist. The basement is 10'4" deep to bottom of the floor joists. The basement floor was poured at the depth of the pit floor

Now for some details of the bulid:

Room Dimensions 14'6" wide 19'6" Long and 10'4" deep
Room within Room Construction
Looking for seating for 7
7.1 sound with room for future upgrades
2:35 Screen size with masking for other content
Will be using the Pro Theater Layout Service to
help with seat placement, speaker placement and screen size
Equipment has yet to be determined

I sure this build will take me a few years to complete. I hope to have lots of input from the crew here to help steer me I a good direction and to keep me inspired to get it done.

Jeremy
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post #2 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Equipment specs

Screen: 115" 16:9 Seymour CenterStage XD screen with masking

Projector: JVC 4910

Receiver: Marantz 7009

Blueray: Oppo 103D

Speakers : LCR M&K S-150

Surrounds: 4x M&K SS-150's

Subs: 2 full Marty behind screen, 2 marty cubes in rear both with SI HT18 subs powered by 2 Inuke 3000dsp

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post #4 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Well here is the space. I made a couple of 2d solidworks drawings of the space. I know 2d and solid works, that is some kind of sin but I have forgotten most of my drafting skills since I graduated college.

Here is the top view of my area:


Here is the room looking towards the projector wall:




Here is the room looking towards the screen wall








Sorry for the crappy pics only had the old camera to take these first couple pics.

Im gonna move that duct work over towards the family room. I am also gonna move some of that plumbing to get it closer to the concrete wall.
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post #5 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a idea to help use some of that all important head room. I think Im gonna vault the ceiling up to the rafters but not touching them. I will support the ceiling with the walls so that it is a real room within a room. I do not want any sound leaving the theater as the nursery is right above this room.

Here are a few drawings of the vault im planning.

A side view of the room long ways (dont laugh at my awesome paint skills)



A side view of the room short ways



Here is what I want the vault to look like (had help from my brother to get the 3d model lol)



I hope you guys can understand what im gonna try and do. Let me know what you guys think. Everything is open to change.

Jeremy
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post #6 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 07:40 PM
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It looks like you'll have an awesome room here! You are very lucky to have that ceiling height.

I think that the vault will be a cool feature. Consider making it even cooler by adding a fiber optic star ceiling in the top.

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post #7 of 117 Old 03-11-2012, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah im gonna put in a star ceiling for sure. I am not decied yet if it will be a painted or a fiber optic.

I was thinking it would be cool to divide the ceiling up at all the joints with a crown moulding, so that when the lights are off and the stars are on it looks as if you a looking out some windows. This is a few years off so I have lots of time to decide I will be living in this house for most of my adult life so I am gonna build this room so that I never have to redo
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post #8 of 117 Old 03-15-2012, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Had to get some work done in the family room this week. The drywallers are comming this weekend to get it hung and mudded. I decided to place the rack in this room. The back of the rack will be acessable from the utility room. I will be using a middle atlantic slim 5-37u. I hope there will be enough room for the equipment. The theater door is to the left of the rack.

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post #9 of 117 Old 03-16-2012, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I went to a big box store to see if they had any 90 degree eblows for the trunks of my hvac. Well hardly to my surprise they did not, I could order them for $90 a piece and 2 weeks out. Well for 360 dollars I figured I could build my own.

Went to steel yard got 2 4X10 sheets of 22GA galvanized steel and fabbed up four elbows. The galvanized steel cost me $80 total, less than the cost of one of the elbows.

I had my little brother draw them up in solidworks. Then I cut them out on my home built cnc plasma table. This was my first major project on the cnc plasma table. So there was some scrap made learning how to cut that thin metal. It is so much easier to cut thick steel than it is to cut the thin stuff.

I was so excited to get to cutting and fabbing the elbows I forgot to take any pictures. I will have to get some pics this weekend to show how they turned out. I was plesently surprised how well they turned out.
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post #10 of 117 Old 03-25-2012, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Well did not have to much time this week to work on the theater. The drywallers were here to get the family room all rocked. Man do those guys make quick work of this stuff. They managed to get it all done in one week from the drywall to the texturing and painting. Here is a pic of where it stands now. All I need to do is order the Middle Atlantic rack to fill that hole

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post #11 of 117 Old 03-25-2012, 08:30 PM
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Looks great!

It's so funny to see all that space between the top of the door and the bottom of the soffit. Since my ceilings are so low the top of my door is almost touching the soffit. I thought you were building a playhouse for a second there!

I must have missed your post about the HVAC elbows from before. I'd be interested in seeing some pictures as it sounds really cool. Plasma cutters are always fun.

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post #12 of 117 Old 03-25-2012, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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With such a tall room it is really hard to get good pictures like the rest of you guys. Backed up against the walls and I still cannot get a good picture. I need to get some photography lessons.

I have been dreaming up some kind of marquee sign to go above the door. I have about 2' 4" between door and bottom of sofit. Ill get some pics of the elbows and my plasma cutter. As stated before I am 100 times the metal worker than a wood worker. So this build should get interesting. If I cut a piece of steel wrong I can weld to fix it, with wood all I make is firewood lol
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post #13 of 117 Old 03-25-2012, 09:28 PM
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Having trouble getting pictures is a small price to pay for having tall ceilings.

I think some sort of lighted sign would be really cool above the door. I think I see a metal working project in your future?

I think I'm the exact opposite when it comes to wood or metal. I just learned how to weld (a ton of fun by the way), but it seems like I'm constantly reaching for the angle grinder to clean one of my crappy welds up. Haha.

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post #14 of 117 Old 02-02-2013, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I finally found some time to work on the theater. I spent alot of time wonderind how I was gonna hide the sewer pipe in my theater. After a summer of pondering I finally just gave up and moved the pipe out of the room. This was not a easy option because I first had to move water heater over then break out concrete and move the sewer pipe. The water heater move went well other than having to make a 20 min trip into town to get one fitting I forgot. This upset my wife, I promised I would have it moved in 45 min and I would have gotten it done, but that turned into a 3 hour job do to the forgotten fitting. Up next was the breaking of the concrete. My luck also did not pan out to good on this. I went over to my dads house to grab the electric jack hammer, low and behold he says they managed to burn motor out eariler in the week and it was be repaired. Just my luck. So I had to resort to 10# hammer and lots of muscle. Well it took me 2 days but I got the hole in the floor made. Here are a before and after pics of the relocation.



This is the location prior to being moved. The sewage pipe just stuck to far into the room.



I think it will be well worth the effort once the theater is done. Now I do not have to worry about sound proofing around the pipe and still being able to get at the clean out.
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post #15 of 117 Old 12-15-2013, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I finally got some more time to work on the theater. I managed to get the corner of the room where the sewer pipe was framed up. I also started on making some mufflers for the hvac. I am going to run 2 6" supply runs for the room. The boxes are made of 2 layers of 5/8" osb. They are 5 feet long wish I could make them a little longer but short on room where they are going. They got green glue between layers and sealant on the corners. I was surprised that my local Menards stocks green glue and the sealant. I'm sure it is a little pricey, but for this small job it worked. I will buy it in pails when the drywall goes up.





Photos fixed

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post #16 of 117 Old 02-01-2015, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Started to work on theater again. I need to get this project done lol. I got a little helper who is four. He has a blast helping daddy build things in the basement.

I got the ceiling all framed up. It fully supported on the walls with no touching of the floor joists. I went a little overboard with the lvls but it will not fall down. I started on the 5/8" plywood. Got two walls done should get the others done next weekend. Here is a pic of the back wall.



I got the back and side walls wired for 7.1. Will be adding some wire in the ceiling for the atmos speakers. Don't know if I'll use it but easier to run now than later. The screen wall will get the speaker wire after 5/8" plywood and drywall. I can punch holes in wall from the mechanical room. One less thing to have to drywall around.
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post #17 of 117 Old 02-08-2015, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a lot of work done this weekend. I got all of the plywood hung and put in what seemed to be 3000 screws. I got a Dewalt 20v lithium impact driver. That thing is absolutely awesome for driving the screws in. I just made the mistake of buying Phillips head screws. Should have bought a square or torx head screw. I had to run to town and buy some more number 2 Phillips bits because I wore them out so fast. I used a drywall jack for the first time and wow that thing is awesome. Amazing how one person can hang 4x8 sheets of wood on the ceiling.


Here are some progress pics


Looking in from the entrance



Screen wall





This weeks goal is to get all the seams caulked with green glue sealant. Next weekend I am going to bust the concrete around the plumbing and lower it below floor level. Once I get that done I am going to try and get a gypcrete guy to come out and lvl the floor out. The floor in this room is pitched towards a drain that I am going to pull out.


Thanks for looking
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post #18 of 117 Old 02-08-2015, 08:12 PM
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Looking great! Really like all the pics. 10-foot ceiling in a basement...what a huge benefit that is! Heck, 10-foot ceilings in any room, for that matter, but I think this is the first time I've seen such a high ceiling in a basement. You can do a riser with no problem at all. Good luck w/the rest of the build.
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post #19 of 117 Old 02-10-2015, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I was involved in a battle of biblical proportions tonight. The green glue sealant struck mightily against me. I almost gave up when a glop got me in the face. My OCD stuck back with a vengeance, I managed to get that diabolical white stuff pressed into all the gaps in the plywood. I sure hope that this stuff is worth the misery. Time for a good shower.
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post #20 of 117 Old 02-15-2015, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a lot done this weekend. I managed to get the ceiling drywalled. I have to return the lift so I figured I would get that done. I also managed to get the plumbing busted out of the concrete and lowered. I used a big hammer drill that worked sweet to bust the concrete up. I drilled 3/4 holes around the fitting then switched the drill to the jackhammer mode. I was planning a whole day to get this done and ended up only taking 3 hours.


I made some big decisions for the ceiling of the theater. I ran the plywood down a extra 3 inches around the vault. I'm planning on putting in a fabric ceiling. I should have approx. 4 inches of space to hide the in ceiling atmos speakers. By doing it this way I can move the speakers the whole length of the room to get them in the best spot. I was afraid if I made a recess they would end up in the wrong location.


I also left the area around the door open. I want to frame the door in then butt the osb and drywall up to it. Before I put the door in I need to have floor done. So it will be left open a bit till I decide what I'm going to do with the floor.


There is a removable cover at the project location. The 2 in conduit runs to this location from the rack. I am hoping I will not need to use it but it is there just in case.


I have a few questions for you guys.


1. Does the riser have to be placed directly on the ground? The reason being the floor has about a 4 in dip where the riser is going. I could build the riser to span the low area, I'm just wondering if this is a good practice? The nearest gybcrete guys are a 100 miles away not sure if they will come out to do such a small area.




2. I want to use a dark stained wood for all the trim work. What species of wood would you guys suggest? I would like something that looks good but has a lot of options for different styles of trim work. I know red oak has a ton of styles and readily available but not sure that will look to good with a dark stain on it. I am up for suggestions.


I had a few more questions but am drawing a blank atm. Here are a few pics of the progress.


Screen wall



Project access hole

Plumbing removed

Exit of the theater (sorry the next room is messy its the kids play room/theater staging area lol)

Vault Detail

The piece that hangs down will get trimmed on three sides with the wood I plan on using in the room. A piece of crown moldings will get attached to the inside of the vault to hid the rope lights. Fabric panels will get build on the wall side to hide atmos in ceiling speakers.
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post #21 of 117 Old 02-21-2015, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Got another milestone accomplished this morning. I got the floor leveled over the drain. I talked to a gypcrete contractor about leveling the floor in the room. He was very hesitant to do the job for fear of the floor getting wet at some point and wrecking the gypcrete. After doing some investigating I found a product called Levelex to overlay the concrete and level the floor out.


This product is a self leveling polymer concrete. It ran about $26 dollars for a 50 pound bag. Kind of expensive but it will get the job done. I took a 2x4x10 and marked a line every 2 feet on the board. I then went every foot across the room measuring the amount low the floor was. After doing this across the room I added all the numbers up divided it by 12 to get the measurement in feet. I then multiplied it by 2 square feet(the area of each measurement) and got 5.5 Cu feet of concrete needed to level the floor. I went and bought 20 bags each bag was .5 cu feet. I can return what I don't use.


The floor needed a coat of primer that must be allowed to dry. I did this the night before. Here is the primed floor.
The mixing instructions said that if pouring over 1 inch in depth a course concrete sand must be mixed in to strengthen the mix. It just so happens this is what I do for a living, one of the products I make is a course concrete sand for a local paver block plant. So a hop in the pickup and a 500 feet trip from the house and I get to the pile.
Two buckets later and I had enough. This type of concrete is a very fast setting mix so we needed to be on our A game to not have a screw up. We mixed the concrete two bags at a time in a wheel borrow. You need to use a high shear paddle to get the proper mixing done. Two electric drills and a corkscrew mixer did the trick. Here are the bags o-fun and the mixing stations.

We mixed two wheelbarrows at a time to get the concrete all mixed before it starts to set. To speed the process up we premeasured water for 10 batches(20 bags) in pails to speed the mixing up.

Luckily the wife was in town running errands while this went down or I would probably would have gotten yelled at for having all this stuff in the family room. I got help from the neighbor kid to help with the mixing. He did a excellent job. The first two batches we made I added sand to, because they were going in the deepest area of the floor. I was surprised how fast we got this all mixed up. The whole pour only took us about 30 min. We ended up using only 12 bags to fill the low spot in(calculated 11 bags). I did not get any pictures of the pour but the concrete had the consistency of almost water. It did a wonderful job of leveling it self off with a little prodding. Here is a final pic.

I was really happy how it turned out, especially how this was my first time ever attempting this. This stuff is amazing how it levels out so nice without any hand finishing. The only finishing I did was to blend it into the existing concrete around the edges. This blending made the finish worse than if I would have just left it alone. There would have been a small bump if I did not blend it in. The concrete hardened enough to walk on in about 4 hours. Tomorrow the rest of the drywall will be installed.
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post #22 of 117 Old 02-22-2015, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Well we had another goods days worth of work today. We got the room the rest of the way dry walled. The neighbor kid jut so happens to be learning how to tape and mud in school. They are building a home for habitat for humanity. So off to Menards we went, to get supplies to mud the room. The kid showed me the correct method for taping and mudding. I am impressed with him, he seemed to have paid attention in class. He said would come over a few hours after school each day and put a little bit down. We got two walls done I am saving the ceiling for last as that part is the only one you will see once the room is finished. Hopefully by then my training will be done
View from the entrance

Screen wall

While we were at Menards we took a look at the trim selection they had. I really liked the look of maple but the price is way up there. I might settle for a popal trim. It has a nice fine grain that once stained should look really nice. I do not want red oak. My house is full of it and I am kind f sick of it. Even with a really dark stain I still think you would be able to see the pronounced grain. If anyone has any good suggestion for the type of wood I should use let me know. Im hoping to get the mudding done this week so we can lay the subfloor down next weekend.
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post #23 of 117 Old 02-23-2015, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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We did some more mudding tonite. Got the walls all done with the first coat. The kid helping me with the drywall wanted to know how big the screen was gonna be. We taped the screen out on the wall. Was gonna go with a 105 wide 2.4 screen but now after taping it out I might go 115 wide. The picture was taken from the back to seating position. The camera could not get a good pic from the first row. Should I go with the larger screen?
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post #24 of 117 Old 03-01-2015, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a pretty boring week taping and mudding. I have to give dry waller's props taping and mudding is hard work. I managed to get it all done with acceptable results. Thank god the only piece of exposed drywall is the ceiling. By the time we got to working on the ceiling we had it all figured out. I hung a piece of drywall down the face of the soffit. I left it short by 3 inches so that I can attach a piece of 3/4 hardwood. This will get me a piece that will have 3 exposed edges in the room. The thought is to use poplar for the wood work in the room. I really would like to use maple but the price is almost 2x the amount the poplar is. The next project was to start of the floor.. For the first layer I used dricore. I was impressed with that stuff went down really fast and it was easy to get the floor nice and level using the shim kits they sell. The second layer is a 3/4 tongue and groove osb. Green glue was used between these two layers. Here are a few pics of the progress. I am starting to get excited the room is starting to look like something
Flooring in

View of the completed taping mudding and the soffit
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post #25 of 117 Old 03-08-2015, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a pretty busy week. Looking at the weather for the next week put me into panic mode. It is suppose to be in the 40's the entire week. I needed to get stage built so I can haul sand up to the house with a loader and not wreck the lawn. It gets to warm ill be spending a few weeks in spring fixing ruts in the lawn. I got the stage built and filled full of sand. We then started to work on the coffers on the ceiling. Here are a few progress pics.


Easy way to get sand to the house. Still no easy way to get the sand in the house lol



Pic of stage. Design borrowed from the sunset build



Coffers drywalled ready for the mudding.
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post #26 of 117 Old 03-09-2015, 06:46 AM
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Looks like you're making good progress.

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post #27 of 117 Old 03-15-2015, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I managed only to get one day this weekend to work on the theater. We go the riser framed up. It still need another layer of 3/4" plywood. Plans this week include finishing the mudding one more coat . I will also try and get the ceiling textured. I am going to do a light orange peel texture. I feel that will be the easiest surface to have a star mural painted on the ceiling. I did make a list of equipment and furniture that I want for the theater. After adding it all up . I am going to have to sell a kidney to be able to afford it all this century lol. Here is a pic of the riser.





Next weekend the stage is going to get covered and a screen wall built . I am starting to get excited the room is finally starting to look like something.
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post #28 of 117 Old 03-29-2015, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Got another good weekends worth of work done. The Stage and riser both got another layer of 5/8 and 3/4 osb. I put up 2 layers of 1 inch linaccoustic with 8 mil plastic between them on the stage wall. The false was got framed up and painted flat black. Here is a progress picture.



Next up is getting all the trim bought and stained . I am leaning towards having a friend getting it all stained for me. He owns a custom cabinet shop and is set up to do projects like that . Thanks for looking.
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post #29 of 117 Old 03-29-2015, 07:09 PM
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Wow, what a great build. I hope I'm not too late to vote for the bigger screen!

Keep up the excellent work.
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post #30 of 117 Old 03-30-2015, 03:35 AM
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I'm surprised more people haven't commented on this build.

Looking very good so far.

+1 for the bigger screen!
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