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post #1 of 14 Old 03-14-2012, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone, another longtime lurker/dreamer here. I just bought a new house and am looking to get started on a dedicated home theater build. I've sketched the general layout of the room I'll be using which I've included. I also am including a list of equipment, but I do have some questions. I am trying to figure out the maximum screen size I can go in this room. I want to do a 2:35:1 CIH setup. I am unsure yet if I want to get an A-lens or use the projector's built in zoom (wouldn't this mean I need a 2:37:1 screen?) What would be more adventageous for me? I welcome any other suggestions or tips you can give me as I'm getting started with what has been a dream of mine for a long time and my first build!


Other Notes:
As far as the build, obviously I will need to blackout both windows in this room for maximum light control. I'd like to add some nice architectural details throughout, so perhaps I could use columns to cover them up. I'd love to do something cool with the ceiling like one of those fiber optic star ceilings, but with the ceiling height being only 8' I am afraid I may not get to do much with the ceiling except paint it. Door 1 currently swings inward and is a hollow door. I will be replacing this with a solidcore and have it swing outward.

I've currently decided on the following
JVC RS45 Projector
Paradigm Studio 60 (x2)
Paradigm Studio CC-690
Paradigm Studio ADP-590 (x2)
Paradigm SUB 15
Denon-3312CI (Though likely this will change to the comparable 2013 model)
Oppo BDP-93
Xbox 360
PS3

Chairs: Fusion Escapes x6 (maybe, still not sure)

I will try to get some pictures of the room up later.
LL

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post #2 of 14 Old 03-14-2012, 11:08 AM
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How much of that equipment do you have already? Nothing wrong with the choices, just trying to set the baseline...

I think your riser distance is too shallow, you'd like another 6" or so of depth. Mine are about 5'6", and the seats when fully reclined almost touch (and you can certainly put your feet on the chair in front of you). Also, pulling the rear row away from the back of the room another foot would give you better surround speaker placement (so it's not shooting right into the rear row's ears).

Do some reading in the CIH forum about zoom memory on the JVC. I'm using a lens on my JVC, and IIRC there are some caveats (can't remember if it's just the time it takes to change the setting, or if there's other issues like image shift) - but certainly worth investigating.

And yes, you'll definitely want to plug up those windows, for both light and sound. Is this a 2nd floor or basement build?

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post #3 of 14 Old 03-14-2012, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm flexible on the equipment as I haven't purchased a single item yet, but I'm about to kick it into high gear. I get what you are saying about the sound, which actually leads me to another question I forgot which is 7.1 possible in this room?

This is actually a 3rd floor room. I don't have a basement unfortunately, though I guess I shouldn't complain since it's 3 levels haha

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post #4 of 14 Old 03-14-2012, 11:39 AM
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Welcome to the forum and thanks for starting a build thread! We love build threads.

I think of screen size as being driven mainly by how far you're going to sit from the screen. The further you are from the screen, the bigger the screen needs to be to provide an immersive experience.

This means you should think carefully about the entire seating arrangement. Do you want the folks in the back row to have good sound? If so, you probably want to pull the back row a couple of feet away from the back wall. How deep does your riser need to be? 59" is probably too shallow for recliners, by the way -- feet tend to hang off the end of a recliner's foot rest. Some folks don't use recliners in the back row, which can translate into a shallower riser, which moves the front row back ... You probably see the point. Nail down your seating plan and that will let you decide how far you're going to sit from the screen, which will help enormously in choosing a screen size.

The capabilities of your projector also seem important. The JVC has a great reputation for the quality of the image it throws, but it is not regarded as being very bright. If you ask it to throw too big an image, you might not be happy with the brightness of that image.

The most reliable method I have seen for figuring all of this out is to set up your projector temporarily and watch some movies projected on a wall or a bedsheet or whatever. Put your chair at the distance you think will be your main viewing location and try out different image sizes.

If you don't already have the projector, you can look at the screen size/viewing distance recommendations from a couple of reputable entities: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1004723.

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post #5 of 14 Old 03-14-2012, 05:43 PM
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Can you post a floor plan showing the other rooms surrounding the theater? Especially the entrance. If you can move the door into the theater so you enter mid-wall that would help - then you could build a full width riser and maybe fit four seats on the back row.

+1 as to moving the back row off the wall.

Also, can you move the media room door to another location? Can you steal some space from the media room? Depth is a bit shallow for two rows.

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post #6 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok everyone I am attaching photos of the room, media closet, and "lobby" area outside of the theater. Excuse the mess, we just moved in Obviously alot of work to be done (all the work) but these are the bones I have to work with. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!








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post #7 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:15 AM
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How many people do you plan to have in there regularly? If it's three or less you might consider replacing that back row with a bar. That would eliminate the riser and possibly move the second row seating forward a little.

If that second row is overflow seating you could also consider theater seats to save some space and get them further off the back wall.

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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2 on a regular basis, but I will have up to 6 at a time, thus the need for two rows of 3. Plus i really like the feel 2 rows and the riser give. I'll be moving the door that swings inward to swing outward so that should help some. What do you mean by theater seats?

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post #9 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:39 AM
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I really like having real theater seats in my room. By doing real theater seats in row two you could squeeze a fourth seat back there. Its always nice to have an extra seat available.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:45 AM
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They're like the seats at the local theater rather than recliners. The advantage is they take up a lot less space. I don't know about you, but the seats at my local theater are pretty comfy

EDIT: If you do consider the theater seats, you can often find them cheap from theaters that are renovating. Then you could spend the extra money on another sub or A-lens

EDIT 2: Found a picture


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post #11 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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So basically use any non-reclining theater style chair for the back row to save room. I may have to look into this. As far as the screen size I am thinking somewhere between 120 and 130" but I may wait til I get the projector in and do some tests just shining on the wall before I decide for sure.

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post #12 of 14 Old 03-15-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeRF View Post

So basically use any non-reclining theater style chair for the back row to save room. I may have to look into this.

Yes, in my 17' theater the back row is 2' from the wall, using Stressless seats which have reclining backs, but no footrests. No one complains.
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post #13 of 14 Old 03-16-2012, 04:26 PM
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Pleated room darkening cell window shades will be a cost effective way of dealing with your windows to keep light out. We went with Bali custom cut pleated room darkening window shades. They can be raised from the bottom or lowered from the top for privacy. We have two large windows directly behind our Stewart Electriscreen when it is lowered into place. The shades are so effective, no light penetrates. We also used them to cover two skylights in the room, no light gets in! Best money we ever spent and it turned out to be a great solution for our HT. We have windows and light when we want it and total dark when the screen comes down. Best of both worlds. We purchased them through Lowes when they were on sale.

If that is too much $ I recently found out that you can purchase room darkening pleated cell shades precut from Lowes, they come in a number of widths. The only down side is that you can not lower them from the top so you have light AND privacy, but that is a small price to pay in that the precut shades are alot less expensive.

One more thing, when we first started our HT build, we didn't have the $ for shades. Several people on AVS suggested cutting a single heavy sheet of cardboard to fit the inner dimensions of the windows and use "sticky tack" to keep them in place as a temporary stop gap, until the shades came in... worked like a charm and cost less than $10
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-25-2012, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Been a while since I posted with an update but I'm really starting to get things rolling now. JVC RS45 has arrived. I applied some dark privacy film to the windows and put up blackout curtains and have about 98-99% light blocked. Looking to order screen 136" Carada 2:35:1 screen in the coming weeks. I am also still looking at chairs and have thought about changing my design around a bit. I'm looking at the Fusion jive chairs and instead of doing 2 rows of 3, simply doing 1 row of 4 for now. This will allow me to leave space in the rear to do a proper 7.1 setup. Can anyone recommend any similar chairs at similar pricing I could look at before I pull the trigger. Also does anyone have any recommendations for a ceiling mount for the RS45? Will post new pics soon.

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